Stout Brew, temps all over the place

[Tossie]

Well I started my first stout brew(2 brew ever) and I have messed up the temperature on numerous occasions. I started it on the 6th of this month(Sept) and came down with glandular fever which meant I couldn't look after it properly for 2 weeks as I was bed ridden most of the time. So the temps would go down to about 18/19 and I would often turn on the heat belt and forget about it as Id fall asleep. meaning the temps would go up to 24/25. This happen on quite a few occasions and even today when the temps were about 18/19 I thought i would turn on the belt to bring it up to 20/21 and i wrapped some towels around it. I was watching TV 5 minutes ago and heard the air lock bubbling more than usual so I went to check the fermenter and its at 35 degrees, I forgot to turn the belt off hours ago

I know this has messed up my brew considerably but I was just wondering is it even worth bottling if its guaranteed to taste like sh*t.
Thanks.

NOTE: The degrees I have posted are in Celsius.
18 ºC = 64.4 ºF
21 ºC = 69.8 ºF
35 ºC = 95 ºF

 

[KevinW]

The more critical time for temp control is during the active phase of fermentation. If the yeasts get shocked while still eating and multiplying they can give you some "funky" results.

If your beer was just conditioning and you were having the temperature swings your beer should be OK although the 35°C is a little warm.

If you have a device that can take a sample from your beer like a racking cane or turkey baster then take a sample and taste your beer!

Flat beer will still taste about the same as carbonated beer. If it tastes like feces now it most likely will taste like after bottling.

You should be fine!

Let us know how it turns out!

 

[Tossie]

Well the time has come for the bottling to begin and I've just taken a reading on the hydrometer but suck at it as usual.

Could somebody give me an idea of what the OG and FG readings are from looking at these pictures? I know the quality of the pics ain't great.

OG:

http://i.imgur.com/Prpjv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/15Za8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pqFU3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uYue2.jpg




FG:

http://i.imgur.com/M0lsm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sp4CE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/W4THQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/70hwK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3eQhG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9nujD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PVzGh.jpg

 

[Tossie]

Anyone?

I've just tried using an online abv calculator and I'm getting this http://i.imgur.com/RpdwW.png

Looks a bit higher than i expected, is it correct?

 

[Ogri]

Looks to me like your OG is around 1.040, your FG is somewhere between 1.010 to 1.012-ish.

Using this table from the John Palmer site, it seems that your beer is around 3.6% to 3.8%.

I think you entered your values into the calculator the opposite way round and the FG should be 1.010 not 1.100

Slainte

 

[ChaosStout]

Did you give it a taste? As far as your OG goes if your topping up after the boil it most likely will read lower then what it is. Your top up water might most likely didnt get totally integrated with the Wort. That looks like quite abit of extract and Id be suprised if your OG was only 1.040. The Mutons can alone is 1.040 the other 2.2 lb of DME should raise it to about 1.060ish if my math is right

 

[Vuarra]

Did you give it a taste? As far as your OG goes if your topping up after the boil it most likely will read lower then what it is. Your top up water might most likely didnt get totally integrated with the Wort. That looks like quite abit of extract and Id be suprised if your OG was only 1.040

This.

You should be in the 1.050 to 1.060 range, esp with the extra kilo of pale DME. Considering what you used, I'd not worry about the OG, just monitor the FG, unless you need exact amounts for alcohol reading purposes.

As for the temperatures, another poster has it right; the first few days of fermentation are most critical for temperature. I not sure that you needed a heat belt, as yeast can still work as low as 15* (albeit slower). Time is on your side when it comes to fermentation.

 

[Ogri]

Dunno if you added any extra sugar, or anything like that, and just throwing the ingredients shown in your first pic into QBrew this is what comes out at, assuming it's a 5 (US) gallon batch;

Munton's export stout

Recipe Munton's export stout Style Irish Stout
Brewer Tossie Batch 5.00 gal
Extract

Ingredients Quantity Grain Type Use
3.97 lb Muntons Connoisseurs HME - Export Stout Extract Extract
2.20 lb Muntons DME - Extra Light Extract Extract
Quantity Hop Type Time
Quantity Misc Notes



Recipe Characteristics Recipe Gravity 1.048 OG Estimated FG 1.012 FG
Recipe Bitterness 0 IBU Alcohol by Volume 4.7%
Recipe Color 24‹ SRM Alcohol by Weight 3.7%


If you did 5 UK gallons, which is approximately 6 US gallons, that might possibly explain the lower numbers for OG and FG.

This is purely speculative and just a beginner's thoughts.

 

[Tossie]

Did you give it a taste? As far as your OG goes if your topping up after the boil it most likely will read lower then what it is. Your top up water might most likely didnt get totally integrated with the Wort. That looks like quite abit of extract and Id be suprised if your OG was only 1.040. The Mutons can alone is 1.040 the other 2.2 lb of DME should raise it to about 1.060ish if my math is right

I tasted it right before I bottled it, was pleased with the taste actually which I'm happy about. By totally integrated do you mean I didn't stir it enough when I added it?

This.

You should be in the 1.050 to 1.060 range, esp with the extra kilo of pale DME. Considering what you used, I'd not worry about the OG, just monitor the FG, unless you need exact amounts for alcohol reading purposes.

As for the temperatures, another poster has it right; the first few days of fermentation are most critical for temperature. I not sure that you needed a heat belt, as yeast can still work as low as 15* (albeit slower). Time is on your side when it comes to fermentation.

I was trying to brew it as close to the recommended 20 Celsius as I could which is why I used the heater belt at times to bring it up from 17/18. I was under the assumption that under 20 would effect the outcome of the taste Thank you for clearing that up

Dunno if you added any extra sugar, or anything like that, and just throwing the ingredients shown in your first pic into QBrew this is what comes out at, assuming it's a 5 (US) gallon batch;

Munton's export stout

Recipe Munton's export stout Style Irish Stout
Brewer Tossie Batch 5.00 gal
Extract

Ingredients Quantity Grain Type Use
3.97 lb Muntons Connoisseurs HME - Export Stout Extract Extract
2.20 lb Muntons DME - Extra Light Extract Extract
Quantity Hop Type Time
Quantity Misc Notes



Recipe Characteristics Recipe Gravity 1.048 OG Estimated FG 1.012 FG
Recipe Bitterness 0 IBU Alcohol by Volume 4.7%
Recipe Color 24‹ SRM Alcohol by Weight 3.7%


If you did 5 UK gallons, which is approximately 6 US gallons, that might possibly explain the lower numbers for OG and FG.

This is purely speculative and just a beginner's thoughts.

Yes I did the 23 liters which is 6 US gallons (5 UK)

 

[Tossie]

Looks to me like your OG is around 1.040, your FG is somewhere between 1.010 to 1.012-ish.

Using this table from the John Palmer site, it seems that your beer is around 3.6% to 3.8%.

I think you entered your values into the calculator the opposite way round and the FG should be 1.010 not 1.100

Slainte

Hmmm I didn't want it high like 7.7% but 3.6%/3.8% is a bit lower than I had hoped. I take it 1KG of spraymalt is not the equivalent of 1KG brewing sugar so?

 

[Ogri]

I tasted it right before I bottled it, was pleased with the taste actually which I'm happy about.

Mate, that's the most important thing

IYes I did the 23 liters which is 6 US gallons (5 UK)

OK, so, that could be the reason for the lower numbers. Doesn't mean it'll be sh1te beer. Quite the contrary!!!! Doesn't necessarily need to be strong to be enjoyable. Maybe it means that you can condition for a slightly shorter period and still enjoy the fruits of your labours a little earlier.

 

[Ogri]

Hmmm I didn't want it high like 7.7% but 3.6%/3.8% is a bit lower than I had hoped. I take it 1KG of spraymalt is not the equivalent of 1KG brewing sugar so?

I'm no expert but, from what I've gleaned from various posts on here, an extract is generally going to give a slightly lower %ge yield than cane sugar.

Try checking out the QBrew recipe calculator. Found this thanks to a guy who goes by the name of the Screwy brewer.

http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/09/qbrew-homebrewers-recipe-calculator.html

 

[Tossie]

I'm no expert but, from what I've gleaned from various posts on here, an extract is generally going to give a slightly lower %ge yield than cane sugar.

Try checking out the QBrew recipe calculator. Found this thanks to a guy who goes by the name of the Screwy brewer.

http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/09/qbrew-homebrewers-recipe-calculator.html

Looks like a handy program that, thanks a lot