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Still new, but decided to ditch bottling and try kegging

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Ok, the taprite regulators I can see don't have duotight connectors. Unless someone knows where I can get one that does have them? (needs to be a double regulator though as I want to set up two kegs eventually).
What about a komos? https://www.amazon.com/KOMOS-Dual-Body-CO2-Regulator/dp/B08YLRZWL7
I see this name pop up quite regularly. And they have the duotight connectors so I can fit my gas line to it that is in transit.
 
I think the KOMOS is probably a pretty decent regulator in its own right, but if you really have your heart set on a Taprite: Taprite dual product regulator with MFL output. The duotight connectors aren't included, but these will work. Same ones that are included with the KOMOS.
I should look at my regulator when I get back home to see if the barb fittings are attached to MFL outputs (I should have checked before I ordered the work around parts.) That would be sweet.

Brew on :mug:
 
I think the KOMOS is probably a pretty decent regulator in its own right, but if you really have your heart set on a Taprite: Taprite dual product regulator with MFL output. The duotight connectors aren't included, but these will work. Same ones that are included with the KOMOS.
Crikey, look at the price on that thing :D
ok, let's have some truths here. Are the cheaper regulators really not worth the money? What makes the taprite different from the Sparc?

Or is this a case of nike vs sketchers? Both do the same job, and last the same amount of time. Only one costs 3 times the price of the other.
 
What makes the taprite different from the Sparc?
The better and more important question is what makes the Taprite different from the KOMOS. It's one thing to say that the cheap regulators are junk. They are. They can be hard to adjust; they drift; they don't last, etc. Lots of folks here swear by Taprite, and those are not people who tend to blow a lot of smoke IME so I assume they do make high quality products. But Kegland sells a lot of regulators and ships these with their kegerators too and you don't see a ton of people saying that they tossed theirs and bought a Taprite.

But first things first - do you really anticipate needing two different serving pressures for your kegs or could you live with something in the 12 PSI range for all of your brews and just use a splitter? Or are you planning to burst carbonate? In which case you might have one keg at serving pressure while the other is at 30 PSI or higher. But that's a day at a time once in a while and you can just disconnect the keg that's already carbed during those periods.

Another alternative might be to get a relatively low-end single body primmary regulator and a Taprite dual secondary. With that sort of set up, the primary would basically be set once and would not have to be very precise or consistent as the secondaries do the real work.

I personally have a middle of the road regulator. It's served me well so far, but I don't really ask a lot of it.
 
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^Yes, exactly..the cheapies can drift a lot; set it at 11psi in the morning, come back at lunch and find it's crept up to 18psi or worse, plus when it eventually need the diaphram replaced you can't find find parts for it.
I'm 90% sure that KOMOS regulators are rebadged Kegland Mark IV's...I can't see the price of the one you linked on amazon as I'm in Canada and amazon refuses to show me the proper page, but Bobby carries the KOMOS, and Williams has the Mark IV:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/co2regulatorkomosdouble.htm
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...-Regulators-Parts/Mark-III-Twin-Gas-Regulator
I have a Kegland Mark IV, and I'd call it a decent budget regulator... it does drift a little bit, but it takes about a week to climb by 1 or 2 psi, and if you very slightly readjust it nack down it'll stay there. I like the nice firm knob and clear easy to read gauge and while I love that it comes with 1/4"MFL output, I am annoyed that it has no shutoff valve which means you must always keep something connected to it...As long as you intend to always keep a line attached, that'd be a decent economical choice.
If you want to really keep costs down, since you already have one single-bodied regulator, you could always 'go cheap' and just buy a pair of Duotight secondary regulators:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/co2regulator_duotight.htm
...a number of folk on here have them and while a few people have issues, most seem quite content to use them...especially as they fit in easily with EVABarrier systems and take up less space.
:mug:
 
I personally have a middle of the road regulator. It's served me well so far, but I don't really ask a lot of it.
Same here, some off-brand dual regulator, with the smallish, serrated edge adjustment knobs. Been serving me well for 12 years. It's easy to adjust, doesn't creep and even gets compliments at beer events.

It's used for force carbing, dispensing, and utility use, back and forth, so it gets readjusted often. No issues.
 
Something I totally forgot to add: Whichever regulator you get, be sure to also get the appropriate washers which should be changed with every tank change (That's one of the reason I prefer newer model Taprites; They have a permanent o-ring on the tank connection so you don't need to continually change washers) Here's the KOMOS/Kegland Mark IV washers:
https://komosdraft.com/products/replacement-nylon-washer-komos-co2-regulators.html
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...Regulators-Parts/KegLand-Regulator-C02-Washer
And I also highly recommend getting a proper shank-wrench:
https://komosdraft.com/products/komos-double-offset-shank-wrench.html
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...TAP-FAUCETS-SHANKS/Intertap-Multi-Faucet-Tool
..it's far better than trying to use ordinary wrenches when installing in a tower with limited space. If you're going with any other brand of regulator, buy some of these standard regulator washers:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fiberwasher.htm
..always good to keep a few on hand.
:mug:
 
^Yes, exactly..the cheapies can drift a lot; set it at 11psi in the morning, come back at lunch and find it's crept up to 18psi or worse, plus when it eventually need the diaphram replaced you can't find find parts for it.
I'm 90% sure that KOMOS regulators are rebadged Kegland Mark IV's...I can't see the price of the one you linked on amazon as I'm in Canada and amazon refuses to show me the proper page, but Bobby carries the KOMOS, and Williams has the Mark IV:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/co2regulatorkomosdouble.htm
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...-Regulators-Parts/Mark-III-Twin-Gas-Regulator
I have a Kegland Mark IV, and I'd call it a decent budget regulator... it does drift a little bit, but it takes about a week to climb by 1 or 2 psi, and if you very slightly readjust it nack down it'll stay there. I like the nice firm knob and clear easy to read gauge and while I love that it comes with 1/4"MFL output, I am annoyed that it has no shutoff valve which means you must always keep something connected to it...As long as you intend to always keep a line attached, that'd be a decent economical choice.
If you want to really keep costs down, since you already have one single-bodied regulator, you could always 'go cheap' and just buy a pair of Duotight secondary regulators:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/co2regulator_duotight.htm
...a number of folk on here have them and while a few people have issues, most seem quite content to use them...especially as they fit in easily with EVABarrier systems and take up less space.
:mug:
Yeah... I just hit 'reply' on my own post :p Had a rough time and my cognition is fuzzy but just realized that as per the option of just attaching duotight regulators to the single-body primary regulator you already have so you can take your time and maybe save up to buy a "Lifetime" regulator but still get dual-pressures for now (and if you're happy with it, then for the long term) at a low cost outlay...I should have included some examples and the opinions of others who have already done so; This thread might give you some useful food-for-thought:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/morebeer-duotight-gas-manifold-board.733300/#post-10444857
:mug:
 
ok, shank spanner ordered. If the taprite regulator is going to be the most reliable, then that's ordered too. If i'm going to buy once, I may aswell buy right :D
Then i can use my single regulator as a backup in case anything goes wrong.
Having fun with the kegerator. Beer line, etc arrive on saturday, so I can get it all hooked up and quit needing to pull the keg out of the fridge to pour beer (which is stirring up the sediment :D ). But it is nice to have this direct on keg tap handy.
 
Right then, Kegerator is up and running (with a few mishaps haha).
First off, the shank spanner - Thank you for suggesting I get one and particularly that one to make removing the EVA tubing from the duotight connectors.
Got everything cleaned up and put in place and forgot to connect the beer line to the tap before I connected it to the keg :D Woops. It was like a neverending beer straw :D
So I fixed that mistake, and then after I got the tap hooked up, I connected the line to the keg and it spewed beer out the back of the tap where the shank connected to it (clearly wasn't tight enough). Then I figured out what the little nubs on the shank spanner were for (they fit right into the holes on that connector).
Anyway, after that, I managed to get it to pour a beer finally. The Nukatap is really nice. It's the 1st gen flow control one i think, as the gen 2 one has a different insert for the flow control. But I like it.
Took some getting used to for pouring without half a glass of foam, but after the third pint, I think I've got it figured out now :)

Took a few pics, one is just the top of the fridge with the nukatap, and the other was to show that it will fit a 7.5 gallon anvil FV, a 5 gallon corny and a 5lb or 2.5lb C02 tank in it. The tank will fit behind the corny keg, I just didn't have it in there when i took the pic.

Thanks to everyone for all the wise words, they've all been very well heeded.

I cleaned up the perlick and it looks like it's going to be useable again. Think it could do with another few soaks in PBW and some scrubbing, but I kind of like the Nukatap now. Think I'm going to get a gen 2 one as I do plan to have two kegs in the fridge at a time. Which reminds me, I need to get another brew started. Friday I think.
 

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Has anyone tried out the Kegland Duotight Flow Control Ball lock instead of an FC tap and worrying about their line lengths?
I have one that I use with a Nukatap Mini faucet, Works pretty well with no beer line. But that's for a traveling minikeg. I use 5.5 feet of 4 mm EVABarrier tubing in my kegerator. And I don't have to worry about it.
 
Next up is sourcing a good supply for bulk EVA tubing. Anyone got suggestions? I noticed Williams has the cheapest at $17 for 39 feet, that I could find. If I got that and the Kegland FC ball lock, I could probably shorten up the line and make it last longer too. As I don't think that the tap will cut it on a much shorter line. The flow control is a bit hit and miss. Some pours are great, some perfect, others well, if i were a barman, I'd pitch it and pour another because it wasn't something I'd serve to a punter.
So much to learn, but I have no complaints, just enjoying the journey, makes a nice break from writing code every day :D. Wish I'd started brewing 30 years ago instead of 1 year ago :D
 
I could probably shorten up the line and make it last longer too.
How often do you think you're going to need to replace the lines?

MoreBeer has these on sale. Six bucks for all the tubing you need for a two tap kegerator. And please stop worrying about flow control. 5.5 ft/1.7 m of 4 mm will give you good pours, and coils up nicely on top of the keg.
 
How often do you think you're going to need to replace the lines?

MoreBeer has these on sale. Six bucks for all the tubing you need for a two tap kegerator. And please stop worrying about flow control. 5.5 ft/1.7 m of 4 mm will give you good pours, and coils up nicely on top of the keg.
I was thinking of just replacing the line every time I changed the keg, maybe that's overkill? Should I just get a line cleaner instead and then replace the line every x? months? I guess I should've read up on this a bit more heh. I'll see what I can dig up. 👍

I have 5.5' 4mm line currently but if I open the FC tap all the way on the nuka, its just a glass of foam. Maybe it's my pour that's in need of practice? I was a master from a can or bottle, but the tap is a different art it seems. As I mentioned before, it's a bit hit and miss from the tap FC. Maybe I just need to keep messing with it and see how it goes for a while. Or I guess I could just increase my line length and see how things change too? Right now I'm sort of experimenting too, trying to figure out how everything works and having a bit of a chuckle with the whole thing.
 
I was thinking of just replacing the line every time I changed the keg, maybe that's overkill? Should I just get a line cleaner instead
That's overkill on the overkill. And then some more overkill. You really don't need anything fancy to clean the beer lines. A soda bottle with a carbonation tee works fine to push cleaning and sanitizing solution through the lines (as frequently or infrequently as you like).
I have 5.5' 4mm line currently but if I open the FC tap all the way on the nuka, its just a glass of foam.
Seems like something other than line length might be the issue. Maybe the beer is overcarbonated? Or maybe your serving pressure is too high?
 
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That's overkill on the overkill. And then some more overkill. You really don't need anything fancy to clean the beer lines. A soda bottle with a carbonation tee works fine to push cleaning and sanitizing solution through the lines (as frequently or infrequently as you like).

Seems like something other than line length might be the issue. Maybe the beer is overcarbinated? Or maybe your serving pressure is too high?
"The beer may be over carbonated"... Is highly likely. One can have enough residual fermentables at kegging... So it is still carbing itself. And the beer can get carbed up higher than the serving pressure? Or it could be a stuck psi gauge that says 9 psi but is actually at 15. (A thump on the gauge... Oh, hell, it's 15?)

Getting the overcarbed beer to get back can take a bit of effort and time. But I think that might be the issue.

And line length is vital. Depends on how much vertical and horizontal distance is covered. At 5.5-8 feet per beer line run... You should be pretty good.

Cleaning lines with BLC (beer line cleaner) is not a big chore. I do it every month or two.
 
As I mentioned before, it's a bit hit and miss from the tap FC. Maybe I just need to keep messing with it and see how it goes for a while.
I've seen this happen again and again on here: Someone does all the reading and puts together a kegerator or keezer and wanting to make it the best they can and try and get in front of any problems before they happen, will buy a FC tap or the more recent FC disconnects (or even both just to cover all the bases) and then spend days, weeks or even months troubleshooting an overcomplicated system. There seems to be some unspoken notion that FC taps are somehow "Better"...Please let me be very very clear about this: They are not "Better", they are a solution to a non-standard beer dispensing system. You have the required 5.5' of 4mm ID EVABarrier therefore most beers (with the only exception being higher carbed beers) WILL pour properly out of a standard tap. The link @mac_1103 provided is a good deal, but like he said: changing lines is overkill on overkill...One of the best features of EVABarrier is that it doesn't break down and need replacing anywhere near as often as the vinyl stuff...it lasts for years with only cleaning. Here's what I clean mine with:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-line-cleaning-kit.html (however I just use hot PBW instead of BLC..both good choices) many folk like these:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-line-cleaning-kit-mini-party-pump.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-ball-lock-cap-tee-fitting.html (I used to use this one)
My best advice is to first get your system operating to the long established standards before worring about FC. If you don't have a regular tap, here's a couple:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/nukatap-beer-faucet-stainless-steel.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/perlick-faucet-630ss-stainless-steel.html
If, with a regular disconnect through 5.5' of 4mm line to a regular tap the beer is foamy, then you have overcarbonated beer (or a bad diptube o-ring in the keg).
Please: Do yourself the service of getting it operating in the standard manner and then you can experiment with flow control once you have made higher carbed beers that might require it.
:mug:
 
The flow control is a bit hit and miss. Some pours are great, some perfect, others well, if i were a barman, I'd pitch it and pour another because it wasn't something I'd serve to a punter.
Oops! Here I go with an extra post again because I forgot to (possibly) address that part. :p
When you say "Some pours" Does that mean after some time has passed? ie: Is the first pour foamy, but if you do 2 in a row, the second is fine?..if so; how much time has passed between? One big issue I have with every kegerator and standard tower manufacturer is that they ship towers that have no insulation in the area where it is most needed and the tap warms up.
Fellow member @hilljack13 is another recent kegerator owner and here's a tip I shared about insulating your tower:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/plugging-the-tube-hole-in-kegerator.735952/#post-10451217
In the 3rd picture in that post, there is my tower-cooling tube that circulates cold air from the evaporator to keep the tower and taps cool..do you have any such?..If not, I highly recommend this tower cooler:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/draft-tower-fan-kit.html
A warm tap will produce foam and depending on how warm, you may need to pour a whole pitcher just to cool down the tap. "Completing" the insulation in your tower and recirculting the warmer air out of it will solve this issue...(if you have this issue)
 
I added extra insulation to my tower, but haven't (yet) put in a cooling fan. I get maybe an extra half an inch of foam on my first pour. Sometimes. If you're pouring a whole glass of foam I would suspect the issue is something other than a warm beer line.
Thanks! That gives me an excuse to talk about it more :p :
A tower is a heatsink and so are the exposed parts of the shank...depending on ambient temperatures, most will never have a huge problem with that. My first kegerator had a single tap tower that lacked insulation aound the top...that is; it had the standard V-cut that left the shank and top bare steel...The kegerator was at the back east wall of my kitchen next to a window (but not in the path of sunlight) and my GF and I like to leave the windows open for fresh air but owing to my brain/Central Nervous System injury I'm always freezing cold and at the time I didn't even notice until the temp had risen to the high 90°s...my first pour was foamy! Bleh!!!...so I examined the problem and simply insulated the tower properly and installed a cooling fan/tube and got near-perfect first pours in a 96° room. (It was only some time later after reading about the roof melting on a Glasgow science institute where climate-change was a major area of study, that I realized how badly my GF must be suffering so I closed the windows and turned on the AC...oops! ...I Love my very supportive GF!) ...point is: the difference made by air recirculation in a tower with full insulation was more clear to me than the sweat all over my GF. :p
It really makes a difference, BUT: with a standard non-FC tap, we can follow the standard procedures to diagnose because we know with scientific certainty that, with keg o-rings intact, a cool inner tower, 5.5' 4mmID EVABarrier: The beer will pour properly and foaming will indicate overcarbed beer.
...just sayin'
:thumbsup:
 
That's overkill on the overkill. And then some more overkill. You really don't need anything fancy to clean the beer lines. A soda bottle with a carbonation tee works fine to push cleaning and sanitizing solution through the lines (as frequently or infrequently as you like).

Seems like something other than line length might be the issue. Maybe the beer is overcarbonated? Or maybe your serving pressure is too high?
And this is why I ask the questions :D So I won't bother buying a tonne more line then, I'll just get a couple of the precut 5.5' lines so I have a couple spare and one for the other keg. Thank you.
I've tried to keep the C02 tank at 12psi, it hasn't had any fluctuation that I've been able to see so far. However, I did burst it for about 24hrs at 30psi before i got the keg in the fridge. But I relieved the pressure and then set it to 12psi after that. Would that of done it?

I've seen this happen again and again on here: Someone does all the reading and puts together a kegerator or keezer and wanting to make it the best they can and try and get in front of any problems before they happen, will buy a FC tap or the more recent FC disconnects (or even both just to cover all the bases) and then spend days, weeks or even months troubleshooting an overcomplicated system. There seems to be some unspoken notion that FC taps are somehow "Better"...Please let me be very very clear about this: They are not "Better", they are a solution to a non-standard beer dispensing system. You have the required 5.5' of 4mm ID EVABarrier therefore most beers (with the only exception being higher carbed beers) WILL pour properly out of a standard tap. The link @mac_1103 provided is a good deal, but like he said: changing lines is overkill on overkill...One of the best features of EVABarrier is that it doesn't break down and need replacing anywhere near as often as the vinyl stuff...it lasts for years with only cleaning. Here's what I clean mine with:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-line-cleaning-kit.html (however I just use hot PBW instead of BLC..both good choices) many folk like these:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-line-cleaning-kit-mini-party-pump.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/carbonation-ball-lock-cap-tee-fitting.html (I used to use this one)
My best advice is to first get your system operating to the long established standards before worring about FC. If you don't have a regular tap, here's a couple:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/nukatap-beer-faucet-stainless-steel.html
https://www.morebeer.com/products/perlick-faucet-630ss-stainless-steel.html
If, with a regular disconnect through 5.5' of 4mm line to a regular tap the beer is foamy, then you have overcarbonated beer (or a bad diptube o-ring in the keg).
Please: Do yourself the service of getting it operating in the standard manner and then you can experiment with flow control once you have made higher carbed beers that might require it.
:mug:
You did mention earlier in the thread about the flow control and how people do get foamy beers. I didn't heed it when I had the tap that hooked right on the keg, as the pours were fine from that mostly. A few did get foamy, but I think that was due to me rushing to get the beer from keg to glass without any tilt on the glass :D

Since you guys have taken the time to help answer my questions and provide me with plenty of things that can help, I can't disagree with any of it. And more importantly, I appreciate all of it.
So I'll be grabbing a cleaning kit instead of changing the line every keg change.
I'll also get a non FC tap to mess about with, will grab a nukatap as I like them. (found two attached to an insulated tower below :D )
Will also experiment more with things to see how it all goes.

Oops! Here I go with an extra post again because I forgot to (possibly) address that part. :p
When you say "Some pours" Does that mean after some time has passed? ie: Is the first pour foamy, but if you do 2 in a row, the second is fine?..if so; how much time has passed between? One big issue I have with every kegerator and standard tower manufacturer is that they ship towers that have no insulation in the area where it is most needed and the tap warms up.
Fellow member @hilljack13 is another recent kegerator owner and here's a tip I shared about insulating your tower:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/plugging-the-tube-hole-in-kegerator.735952/#post-10451217
In the 3rd picture in that post, there is my tower-cooling tube that circulates cold air from the evaporator to keep the tower and taps cool..do you have any such?..If not, I highly recommend this tower cooler:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/draft-tower-fan-kit.html
A warm tap will produce foam and depending on how warm, you may need to pour a whole pitcher just to cool down the tap. "Completing" the insulation in your tower and recirculting the warmer air out of it will solve this issue...(if you have this issue)
And to answer this one:
I haven't poured two in a row, as I'm the only one drinking it. I think my wife would look at me funny if i poured myself two pints at once :D
But in all seriousness, I haven't tried this and I will do so tomorrow night and see what happens.
I'll take a pic of the first and second pour too, see what everyone here thinks.

Generally it's the second pour i do, after finishing up the first, that is often more foamy than the first. I'd say about 30-45 minutes between them.
I think there's probably a mixture of things that need looking at overall. One being my pour technique (as I mentioned before, I can pour from a can or bottle and keep the top of the glass foam free with ease. But the tap isn't quite as simple. I think my angle isn't small enough to start it out, practice makes perfect).
Then there's potentially the over carbonation. But the beer doesn't taste like it's too bubbly. My second from last bottled batch was over carbonated in the bottles and that was the most gassy beer I've ever drank. Every bottle rushed out of the top like a volcano when it was opened. That was over carbonated :D But again, that was sugar in a bottle. This is C02, which I'm new to, so there's new methods to learn and perfect. So if C02 gives a different type of over carbonation, then that may be what I'm experiencing and just not able to tell because of lack of experience.
Then there's tower insulation. Currently my tower only has an o-ring and insulation on the tower top cap, so since I'm currently hunting for a tower for two taps, I'll see if I can find one that's already insulated. Save me the time and it'll hopefully be done nicer than I could do it.
This one looks like it'll fit the bill nicely:
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...unts/Intertap-Double-Complete-Stainless-Tower
It's insulated and has two nukataps without FC on.

Please: Do yourself the service of getting it operating in the standard manner and then you can experiment with flow control once you have made higher carbed beers that might require it.
This is probably the best piece of advice overall and what I plan to do with my next few months of experimentation on setup.
And seriously, all of you, thank you for guiding or pointing me in the right direction on this little journey.
 
I did burst it for about 24hrs at 30psi before i got the keg in the fridge. But I relieved the pressure and then set it to 12psi after that. Would that of done it?

If this is exactly what you did, then the beer is not likely to be over carbonated. At 30 psi and room temp (let's say 68°F/20°C just to get specific) the carbonation level will be 2.5 - 2.6 volumes, but would take a week or more at that pressure to reach equilibrium. If the beer temp is higher, the equilibrium carbonation level would be lower. Just for reference, I burst carb at 30 psi and 37°F/2.8°C for 36 hours, and then vent and set to ~12 psi, and I don't experience over carbonation.

Then there's potentially the over carbonation. But the beer doesn't taste like it's too bubbly.

A foamy pour will at least partially de-carbonate a beer, as all the foam is caused by CO2 coming out of solution. People often report that their beers are flat after foamy pours.

Brew on :mug:
 
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