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Still new, but decided to ditch bottling and try kegging

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sixstring

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I thought my investment in equipment days were done. Until i got a second Anvil fermenter for xmas. Then i didn't have enough bottles anymore. As much as I enjoy the bottles, I don't enjoy the bottling part (brown bottles are hard to see into and I tend to make a lovely mess) as much as the wort making part. Also I don't enjoy the cleaning part of bottles. I got lazy and just dump them in the dishwasher, which seems to clean and sanitize them if i run them on the sanitize cycle. Not had any issues yet with the beer in them.
So I sat and thought "Do i want to buy another 36 odd 16oz bottles and then have to find a place to store them when they don't contain beer? Or should I consider just getting a keg, a mini fridge, some C02, a regulator, some ball lock fittings and a tap with a ball lock on that i can just keep it all nicely tidy inside of the fridge?"
Well after much deliberation, I decided to get a keg and see how it works :D

Lowes has a nice little 4.4CU Hisense fridge without a freezer box, that looks like it'll fit two 5 gallon corny kegs and a 2.5 or 5lb tank of C02 and have enough head room that i can put the taps on the kegs in the fridge. Cheap too ($179). I have several hisense appliances and never had any trouble with them. So I thought this would be a nice way to complete my beer making journey.

So, before the keg arrives and I get geared up to transfer my oktoberfest (marchfest) to it, is there anything wise that anyone wishes they knew before they attempted their first keg? I'm really looking forward to moving to kegs and being able to enjoy my beer without needing to wait 2 weeks after bottling it all the time. Tips on how to do the forced carbonation? What to look for with regards to determining if there's a C02 leak?

My plan is to get this stuff and a new induction kettle and induction plate and be done buying equipment.

Thanks in advance to anyone who's able to take some time to respond. Your time, knowledge and wisdom are appreciated.
Cheers
 
Lowes has a nice little 4.4CU Hisense fridge without a freezer box, that looks like it'll fit two 5 gallon corny kegs and a 2.5 or 5lb tank of C02 and have enough head room that i can put the taps on the kegs in the fridge.
You might want to check out this thread about a very similar fridge. You will almost certainly need to modify the door to fit two corny kegs in there. Maybe the sides too. This thread is more about using it as a fermentation chamber but might also be interesting. Keg mounted taps get mixed reviews. Some flow control taps don't seem to control flow all that well and give foamy pours. I have had good luck with the Picnic Tap 2.1 and the Nukatap Mini kit with flow control QD, but some people don't like one or the other (or both). Needless to say, there are threads about them. Like this one for instance.
Tips on how to do the forced carbonation?
Keg carbonation calculator. Force carbonation chart. Burst carbonation article.
What to look for with regards to determining if there's a C02 leak?
CO2 leak detection.
 
I see I have additional reading to do :D Thank you sir for the fast reply.

I had a feeling I will probably need to take some of the shelving out and clear the plastic shelving off the door. That wasn't a big issue and I'm not concerned with a fridge at that price point.

This is the tap I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D129TWZT
Blind buy, since there's no reviews :D But I've done that plenty of times and not had any issues with things. So worst case scenario I'll return it.

Looks like I'll need to force carbonate in the fridge, since I can't get the room temp down to the 65ish on that chart haha.
So I assume I just set the regulator to a certain amount and then turn on the tank and let it be? Or do i turn it on and then let it get to the right pressure and then turn it off?

Leak detection seems pretty straight forward.
 
I can't get the room temp down to the 65ish on that chart haha.
There are charts that go higher. But the calculator I linked will let you set any temperature you want. To get 2.5 volumes at 65F takes 25.9 PSI. And yes, you leave the gas on for either set and forget or burst carbonating. The difference is whether you set it at serving pressure and wait a couple of weeks or set it higher for a day or so to carbonate faster and then turn it down. Burst carbonation at 65F would probably require more pressure than a corny keg can safely handle. There was a thread where someone asked about "single shot" carbonation but it really isn't feasible.
 
For proper carbonation, you need to get (almost) all of the air out of the headspace. Gauges read the difference between atmospheric pressure and the vessel pressure. If your gauge reads 10 psi, the absolute pressure in the headspace is 24.7 psi (at sea level.) So, if the chart or calculator says you need 10 psi, you actually need 24.7 psi absolute of pressure with pure CO2. If you don't get rid of any of the air in the headspace, then the CO2 pressure at 10 psi gauge pressure (psig) is only 10 psi, as 14.7 psi is due to the air in the headspace. In this case your CO2 pressure is only 10 / 24.7 => 40.5% of what is required.

You can purge the air by repeated pressurize and vent cycles. 4 or 5 cycles at 15 psig is adequate to purge enough air that you will get the intended carbonation level. But, if you have a beer that is very sensitive to oxidation damage (Hazy/NEIPA beers are the most sensitive, and other hop forward beers are next in line) then to purge enough O2 to protect a really sensitive beer requires ~13 purge/vent cycles at 30 psig (I can find a link to the math if you need it.) Another way to do an adequate purge is to fill the keg to the brim with liquid (sanitizer does double duty here), push the liquid out with CO2, and transfer the beer into the keg thru the liquid out post without opening the keg after purging. There are threads around here somewhere that discuss doing these "oxygen free transfers". A third option is to capture the CO2 coming off of your fermentation to purge the keg. This requires an truly airtight fermenter (don't even try with a plastic bucket.) I would save this method until you have some kegging experience under your belt.

Brew on :mug:
 
You won't regret the move to kegs, that's for sure. I haven't used those type of taps you linked above, mostly because they take up a lot of space. I'm not able to fit them in my keg fridge, which is a similar design to the one you ordered. If you've got the same space considerations, you might want to consider picnic taps. They're much lower profile, and they also let you use some beverage line, which can cut down on how foamy your pour is.
 
I do that when I have a beer ready to keg but don't yet have room in my keezer for it.
I have an extra CO2 line to carb up the next keg in the on deck circle. Never tried using natural sugar to carb. Hmm.

Really glad I went with a larger chest freezer (14 cu ft?) with room for 8 corny kegs. Almost always, I have 7 or 8 kegs in the keezer. Taps 1-5 are all CO2 and tap 6 uses beer gas for stout. The 2 extra kegs have already been cold crashed (slowly). The next keg is all carbed up by the time I am ready to serve.

It's also not a bad idea to get different sized corny kegs. I have a bunch of std 5 g ball locks and a 6.5g, a 6g torpedo and (2) 3g corny kegs. So I can make odd sized batches and easily figure out the best way to package it in some corny kegs.
 
I have an extra CO2 line to carb up the next keg in the on deck circle.
I have that as well. My CO2 tank is strapped to the outside of my keezer. I Tee'd off the line running inside so I can have access to CO2 external to my keezer. I recently used it to carb a milk stout, sitting in my garage fridge, that I'll be serving at an upcoming beer and wine festival next month.
 
Not much to add, as I've just stepped off into the keezer game and kegging, but congrats!

I gave up brewing 20 years ago, due to bottling. I hated it.. well, hate is probably too mild of a word of my feelings toward it! Went to a local homebrew festival last summer, and it ignited the fire once again! Made my plans for a 4 tap keezer, and began assembling my parts and equipment list..

One thing to be cautious of.. It was certainly more expensive getting set up for it than I thought! I was getting the stink eye from the wife for a hot minute.. Water under the bridge now, as I've won her over with delicious brews on tap!
 
Another plus in kegs vs bottling is that you can easily fine with gelatin, burst carbonate and be drinking your beer much faster than bottle conditioning. My brews are often grain to glass in 10-12 days. 🍻
 
Well, buzzing with replies here :D. So to help carbonation, i ordered one of those lids for the keg that has the stone on it to pump c02 through. Thought it'd be a nice addition that would help save me some time. Regulator just arrived, now just waiting on the other items. Fridge will be picked up once I get the keg so I can see exactly how it fits with the tap on it too (gonna take my keg to Lowes haha).
 
Well, buzzing with replies here :D. So to help carbonation, i ordered one of those lids for the keg that has the stone on it to pump c02 through. Thought it'd be a nice addition that would help save me some time. Regulator just arrived, now just waiting on the other items. Fridge will be picked up once I get the keg so I can see exactly how it fits with the tap on it too (gonna take my keg to Lowes haha).
Don't forget the KISS principle: Keep it simple, (add your word here) ....you don't need a stone to add Co2 to your kegged beer. Cancel that Lowe's 4.4 cu/ft fridge and get the $199, 7 cu/ft version at Walmart. You don't need to keep your Co2 in the freezer. You can add Co2 as you draw beer out of the keg. You don't need official beer faucets, manifolds and a bunch of other stuff you have to clean and make sure it doesn't leak. Just use 5' of tubing and a cheap picnic tap for each keg. Don't buy new kegs. Look on FB marketplace, there's always tons of homebrew stuff for sale.
 
I started keging in 2023. I added sugar and absorbic acid AA at keging. Put CO2 pressure on after a week or two. Was so much better then bottling.
I now ferment and serve in the keg. No more transfer, no O2 issues.
Have not noted any issues with off flavor,
I dont dry much but if I do, it is a fast procedure. I add hops soaked in vodka plus AA then flush with c02. So far no noted O2 issues Hops just tossed in the keg
All kegs have floating dip tubes

Now I have 6- 2.5/3 gal kegs. Brew extract only, Kits and DIY
I gave away most of the glass bottles
 
I have been kegging for years. Once you go to keging you'll never turn back. It's so much easier. And if you do want to make some bottles, there's different methods and ways to bottle from your keg. Counterflow bottle fillers are generally the best.

Tips that I would say is like some of the things before in this thread. Make sure that you purge out the Air that's left in the keg after you fill it cuz that can cause oxidation.

If you want really clear beer, you can buy a floating dip tube so that way the dip tube doesn't draw off the bottom of the keg where sediment and things can collect. Instead it will float on top of the liquid drawing the clearest beer off the top.

Here's the one I use
https://a.co/d/6nIArHW

Another thing on forced carbonating yes, the links above to the charts that tell you the pressure versus the temperature is probably the best way to do it. However, if you're impatient ,like I can get sometimes lol, you can turn the pressure up to like 40 PSI. Lay The keg on its side and then gently rock it back and forth. You're going to want to do this after The keg has gotten completely cold like 36 to 40° cold. Then you will hear the CO2 streaming into it. Do this for about a minute to 2 minutes. Then turn the pressure down. Now. You may have to let it sit for an hour or so because it's going to be like a shook up pop can and if you try to vent the pressure it's going to spray everywhere.

So after about an hour or two gently vent the gas pressure off, probably be a good idea to put a paper towel around the vent to catch any spray that may come out, and then pressurize it to serving pressure, around 12 to 12.5 psi, and pour a sample and see what it tastes like. Repeat is necessary

Another tip would be when cleaning the keg. Buy a cheap dip tube scrubbing brush. Especially if you have very hazy or beers that have a lot of particulates in them. It really helps to scrub the dip tubes out. Here's a simple link to one
https://a.co/d/1YhpZXz

Good luck and happy brewing!
 
Well, scored a lovely little set of items off of offerup today.
Danby kegerator (not sure on model, but it has a digital temp setting on it) with a Perlick flow control tap on it,
5g corny keg
5lb c02 tank (empty but soon to be exchanged for a full one)
and some random other stuff that the guy wanted to clear out since he had no use for it.

Got the lot for $140. Figured at that price, I can't go wrong. Gotta clean the beer line up (might just go get another bit of tubing from home depot to replace it with. Clean the tap up (figured i could just run some water/starsan mix in the empty keg, and then gas it up and draw it through the tap (mmm, fizzy starsan mixer anyone? :)), but will go hunt down some articles on cleaning up one of these before i run the beer through it.
Just wanted to share my hopefully little treasure score.

Also a funny (newb kegger) experience with the c02. I tried to use the carb stone and didn't think about trying it out in water first to get the pressure right before i put it in the keg :D Needless to say, there was beer flying out the release valve on the keg after a few seconds haha. Was funny though. Beer fountain.
I unhooked the gas and hooked it back to the normal gas in and decided I'd calibrate the stone next time, using water in a nice jug that i can see the bubbles in.

Btw, after having the pressure at 30ish for a day, should i vent the keg and pressurize back to 12psi? Or is it ok to just use the vent on the regulator and then get the psi set to 12 on there again?

And thanks for all the great replies on here so far. It's nice to have such a wealth of wisdom and information available on tap so to speak.
 
Well, scored a lovely little set of items off of offerup today.
Danby kegerator (not sure on model, but it has a digital temp setting on it) with a Perlick flow control tap on it,
5g corny keg
5lb c02 tank (empty but soon to be exchanged for a full one)
and some random other stuff that the guy wanted to clear out since he had no use for it.

Got the lot for $140. Figured at that price, I can't go wrong. Gotta clean the beer line up (might just go get another bit of tubing from home depot to replace it with. Clean the tap up (figured i could just run some water/starsan mix in the empty keg, and then gas it up and draw it through the tap (mmm, fizzy starsan mixer anyone? :)), but will go hunt down some articles on cleaning up one of these before i run the beer through it.
Just wanted to share my hopefully little treasure score.
Ditch the old beer line, and get some EVA barrier tubing.

For cleaning beer lines, you need to use a real cleaner (StarSan is not a cleaner) like PWB, Oxyclean (fragrance free), or Beer Line Cleaner (especially if you have beerstone built up in the lines.)
Also a funny (newb kegger) experience with the c02. I tried to use the carb stone and didn't think about trying it out in water first to get the pressure right before i put it in the keg :D Needless to say, there was beer flying out the release valve on the keg after a few seconds haha. Was funny though. Beer fountain.
I unhooked the gas and hooked it back to the normal gas in and decided I'd calibrate the stone next time, using water in a nice jug that i can see the bubbles in.

Btw, after having the pressure at 30ish for a day, should i vent the keg and pressurize back to 12psi? Or is it ok to just use the vent on the regulator and then get the psi set to 12 on there again?
If the keg is full, or nearly full, then you can just release the pressure with the regulator vent valve. But, if the keg has a lot of headspace, then you should vent the keg itself. The explanation for this involves some physical chemistry, and math beyond basic arithmetic.

Brew on :mug:
 
Ditch the old beer line, and get some EVA barrier tubing.

For cleaning beer lines, you need to use a real cleaner (StarSan is not a cleaner) like PWB, Oxyclean (fragrance free), or Beer Line Cleaner (especially if you have beerstone built up in the lines.)

If the keg is full, or nearly full, then you can just release the pressure with the regulator vent valve. But, if the keg has a lot of headspace, then you should vent the keg itself. The explanation for this involves some physical chemistry, and math beyond basic arithmetic.

Brew on :mug:
I have PBW, no worries.
Why EVA tubing? I was thinking of just getting some food grade silicon tubing like I've got for transferring beer from my fermenter to the kegs/bottles.

And thanks, keg is a full one, not had a swig from it yet. So I got that one right and just released gas from the regulator.
 
I discovered that Home Depot had a surprisingly large selection of kegerators and bought one of these on a sale deal for like $379, I think.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EdgeSta...in-Stainless-Steel-KC1000SS/308789141#overlay

Comes with a 2.5lb tank and fits a single 5gal corny. Connector is for a Sanke but I bought an adapter so I didn't have to cut the line. Had it a couple of years now and it's worked fine. Tap gets sticky sometimes. Bought a Perlick to replace it but I have not swapped them out yet.

I usually bottle at least one cappable750ml from every batch right from the tap with fizz drops and then transfer the rest to corny. Gives me something to take and share later and assures headspace in the corny.

I also put 2.5 and 3 gal cornies in my bar fridge and serve from picnic taps. I don't keep a pressure tank on any of them. I just let them start out a little foamy and then as they level out I add pressure. Works fine for me and I don't have to worry about tanks leaking down.
 
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