I'm industrial. I like the stainless steel 
Still alive - just tackling a HUGE DIY
- Thread starter Jester369
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rockinmarty
Big Member
I'm doing the final design for the range hood, and I'm curious to know which of the three people most prefer. There are no panels like the right two versions anywhere else in the kitchen, but I am not sure if the big slab of wood on the left version is just too plain.
What! No curves.
I prefer #3
fuzzy2133
Well-Known Member
I'm industrial. I like the stainless steel
I agree and it is easy to clean!
But if it has to be wood #2 do not need a fancy hood out doing the cabinets.
The hood in the middle is what I like best.
Yeah I like the center one too. Simple yet classy!
Cheers
Jay
Cheers
Jay
I'm doing the final design for the range hood, and I'm curious to know which of the three people most prefer. There are no panels like the right two versions anywhere else in the kitchen, but I am not sure if the big slab of wood on the left version is just too plain.
#2. I think your instincts on #1 being too plain are correct, and #3 looks needlessly busy.
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OP
OP
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone - it is very appreciated!
Made some more progress on the kitchen island this weekend - it's almost there. I have been dragging my feet on tackling the round elements of it, but ran out of procrastination projects. Here is the 2" radius blank I turned on my makeshift "lathe"
Made a rip sled to hold it
First cut
Finished corners
Installed
Added the 90* return piece
And the filler piece behind it
Made some more progress on the kitchen island this weekend - it's almost there. I have been dragging my feet on tackling the round elements of it, but ran out of procrastination projects. Here is the 2" radius blank I turned on my makeshift "lathe"
Made a rip sled to hold it
First cut
Finished corners
Installed
Added the 90* return piece
And the filler piece behind it
OP
OP
Then I went to work on the 4" radius parts
Split
Notching
And compete
I then decided that working with the cabinet on top of my workbench was no longer feasible. Unfortunately, I am pretty much always working alone, and even if someone else was there, it still probably wouldn't be enough - I'd guess it would take 4 people to horse this thing to the ground. So what is a solo woodworker to do? Cargo strap it to the ceiling and lift it off the table
Drag the table out of the way
And lower it to the ground!
Here is the lift plate I attached to the top to accomplish the move
Split
Notching
And compete
I then decided that working with the cabinet on top of my workbench was no longer feasible. Unfortunately, I am pretty much always working alone, and even if someone else was there, it still probably wouldn't be enough - I'd guess it would take 4 people to horse this thing to the ground. So what is a solo woodworker to do? Cargo strap it to the ceiling and lift it off the table
Drag the table out of the way
And lower it to the ground!
Here is the lift plate I attached to the top to accomplish the move
OP
OP
Time to install the eating counter
First corner installed
Second corner and attaching face
Front riser attached
3/4" cherry ply back panel attached
And it's almost an island!
I still have some detail work to do - I have to finish up the steel supports that are the real structural support for the eating counter, and those corner transitions that look nice in the photos need some filler and sanding to be ready for the cherry veneering that will be applied. Then the whole thing gets disassembled, both to move it upstairs, but also to do the front cherry edge banding that I forgot to apply when I built the actual cabinets - oops!
First corner installed
Second corner and attaching face
Front riser attached
3/4" cherry ply back panel attached
And it's almost an island!
I still have some detail work to do - I have to finish up the steel supports that are the real structural support for the eating counter, and those corner transitions that look nice in the photos need some filler and sanding to be ready for the cherry veneering that will be applied. Then the whole thing gets disassembled, both to move it upstairs, but also to do the front cherry edge banding that I forgot to apply when I built the actual cabinets - oops!
Stillraining
Well-Known Member
Question..Is there a cook top going in this? Just wondering if you gave yourself enough rear lip to get backslash in and still set in the stove top. Nice work regardless.
OP
OP
No, there is range on the outside wall. The island will go where the black table is in this photo:
The full lineup on that wall
Stillraining
Well-Known Member
10-4...What pocket hole tool are you using?
OP
OP
I've been using a Kreg jig - thing works like a champ. The only caveat is that you really have to make sure to clamp the two pieces being joined firmly, or the joint will shift slightly when you screw them together.
MuddyCreek
Well-Known Member
The Jester threads!
Far and away the most engaging on HBT. You talented bastard!
Far and away the most engaging on HBT. You talented bastard!
Just bought one of these for making some custom cabinets for out bathroom remodel. I was thinking, "I wonder if Jester built his cabinets with this thing!"
AND...
Yes, the joints will shift on you. My trial run had a couple of small problems. one being the table saw needs to be set up properly, and also that the screw will pull the other board upward when you screw the two together.
That said, once the saw is aligned and I get one or two jigs made for accurate cuts, and once I plan for the shifting of the boards, the Kreg Jig is really amazing! It's simple and really fast to create those pocket hole joints.
OP
OP
Yeah, I spent an hour or two doing a full tuneup on my tablesaw before starting the cabinets, and it was time well spent. I went from acceptable, but not perfect cuts, to mirror smooth cuts. Getting the fence aligned properly was like magic to the quality.
As for planning for the shifting, you may be better off eliminating the shifting altogether. Get yourself a couple of the kreg 90 degree clamps: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KHC-RAC-Right-Angle-Clamp/dp/B001DCE79O You can cinch it down so there is zero shift. A little trick I found was at the ends to drill two pockets close together (holes A and B or B and C on the jig) and to use one hole for the clamp while putting the screw in the other. By the end I was getting to where I could set the boards close enough that I couldn't even feel the transition with my fingertip - felt like one piece of wood.
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Did you follow any special instructions for tuning your saw? Did it recently and am always interested in seeing what others do to make sure I'm not missing something or doing it the hard way.
While my grain was milling last night I measured the blade to slot distance and it was off by a fair amount front to back. Looks like I should just do a full clean up and retune on it. Also want to make a nice Crosscut sled and a Fence jig.
My saw is some fairly old contractor saw (or hybrid). I can't find any identification for it. Maybe when I get to cleaning it up something will show.
I think the blade not being parallel with the slots is what caused my test box to be crooked. The saw cuts well, but in addition to the crooked crosscuts, I have to jimmy the fence on one end to get it aligned with the blade.
I think on this saw I can loosen the motor mounts and tweak the position a bit.
My saw is some fairly old contractor saw (or hybrid). I can't find any identification for it. Maybe when I get to cleaning it up something will show.
I think the blade not being parallel with the slots is what caused my test box to be crooked. The saw cuts well, but in addition to the crooked crosscuts, I have to jimmy the fence on one end to get it aligned with the blade.
I think on this saw I can loosen the motor mounts and tweak the position a bit.
Kreg jigs are awesome. I never thought a plastic piece of crap could be so useful... Just came across this thread so will have to go back and check out your build. Good luck on getting this most awesome DIY project complete!
OP
OP
This is the reference I used to get my saw dialed in
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf
Auger
Well-Known Member
Just spent a few hours last night playing with the new dado blade set building a mirror frame and picture frame...I wish I had this prior! I'll definitely put this to use for future projects, and can probably apply most of the principles to the compound miter saw as well. Thanks for sharing!
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Usually you loosen 3 of 4 trunion mount bolts to tweak blade/miter square and distance. On some, (usually cabinet style saws) you actually have to loosen the table top itself.
Fantastic! I wont' have time tonight to do all of this, but it's a wonderful resource for the near future. Supposed to rain soon, so I can see myself in the garage with a beer and some tunes going through this process.
I need to find some Baltic Birch to make some jig out of. The plywood I am looking at in the big box stores look like garbage.
I could go MDF, but I like the BB ply better.
I could go MDF, but I like the BB ply better.
Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
Rockler sells BB in various sizes and thicknesses...mine were nice pieces, arrived safely by UPS
Call up a few local cabinet shops and ask where they get their plywood. They might put on a good plywood/lumber source.
That's how I found the one I use. It's about an hour one way but well worth it. I can get various species of furniture grade hardwoods for less than i can buy crappy old pine at HD. I usually go by there once or twice a year to stock up and keep lumber on hand when the spirit moves me.
Last year, I bought sheets of 3/4" Baltic Birch ply for $24 sheet.
Also got the curly cherry I used to make my coffin top from there...
Woodcraft in Grand Rapids sells BB. It's just over an hour away.
I almost hate to go down there, though. The temptation to buy a bunch of stuff will be too great.
I almost hate to go down there, though. The temptation to buy a bunch of stuff will be too great.
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All I have ever seen at Woodcraft are 4'x4' sheets. IIRC, they will get 4'x8' on special order but $$$$.
Better to find a local lumber wholesaler that does sell to the public and order through them. Woodcraft is awesome! But overpriced.
OP
OP
The house has been on hold for the last few weeks - I am active with the local theater community, and I have been building special effects set pieces for a show and it's been eating up all my spare time. Hopefully I'll be getting rolling again soon! I did get the island installed, although it still needs all the veneer work applied - I'll see about getting a couple of photos. Also, now that the weather is warming up, I'm probably going to be trying to get to some of the outside projects - screen porch, front door, soffits and trim and whatnot.
