Stick with extract for fun and beer

[Beezy]

I just got done doing a full boil inside on the stove. No freezing for me. All grain inside = no problem.

 

[Yooper]

I will probably never go into all grain. I prefer the ability to do partial boils inside and with the NY winters, I don't want to freeze my butt off outside! One of my neighbors does all grain and simply does not brew during the winter. I'd never! Also, my free time is limited, and I'd rather not spent that much time on anything.

I've only brewed outside once- about 5 years ago. I always brewed right in my kitchen, but I have a great gas stove that can easily boil 6.5 gallons of wort! I brewed on that system until Jan. 2010 when I got my bigger system. It's still indoors though! Our winters are super cold, dark, and snowy, and our spring and falls aren't much warmer! I'd never brew if I had to do it outside.

Old system (very very cheap!):

New system (not cheap but very convenient!):

I think one of the things that makes homebrewing great is that you can make Cooper's kits, or you can geek out with a single tier HERMS and it doesn't matter a bit. As long as YOU are happy with the end product, then there is no pressure to change.

 

[agentEhrman]

You are right, at least from everyone's responses I've seen in the past. I've not yet done an AG batch, heck I started brewing less than a year ago and took a break over the summer due to too high temps in the house to ferment. From what I gather there's some more equipment but overall the supplies are cheaper so in the even short run AG is cheaper.

However, I've never compared bulk extract to bulk grain costs but I'm pretty sure bulk grain is cheaper, it has to be - extract includes the service charge for the conversion no? Makes sense really.

My thinking though is some of the bulk cost of brewing for me is yeast. If I get into harvesting yeast I can save the most money overall. Either way, extract or AG I am saving a bunch more money brewing at home as opposed to buying commercial brew.


Rev.

I hear you on the yeast. I just pitch Safale dry and I'm still looking at cutting that cost. I haven't found very much information on the step by step process of saving and reusing yeast yet..

 

[danorocks17]

I hear you on the yeast. I just pitch Safale dry and I'm still looking at cutting that cost. I haven't found very much information on the step by step process of saving and reusing yeast yet..

ask and ye shall receive

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/

 

[Bradinator]

There are so many great ways to make beer, everyone has their own style that fits their situation. I made the switch to all grain a few months ago and don't think I will ever turn back. I buy my grain in bulk directly from the malt company for less then 50 cents a pound, so I am making pints of beer for less then ever (not that cost is everything). The difference in time to do all grain and extract was only an extra 1.5 hours at most.

I mill my own grain by hand crank, BIAB with sparge and full boil on an electric stove so I can brew all year long. No chilling my beers shaves off another 30 minutes of time and effort making my brew days take 4 hours or less. My current setup and process is consistent (75% eff), low effort and for myself a ton of fun. The more I do it, the better my overall final product becomes.

 

[craigd]

I'm one of the fairly rare people who go back and forth. I use all grain when I have the time but I do extracts when I have to do an evening brew. As long as I get fresh extract and I'm doing a recipe with common ingredients I don't see a significant difference in the beer (but I'll admit my all grain process isn't top shape yet either.) Frankly I also like the lazier brew days of extract sometimes. It really just depends what I'm looking for from my beer and brew day.

My last AG beer was BIAB and that may make me do all AG more frequently because it was still pretty damn quick and easy. I might actually be able to squeeze a BIAB out after work if I get everything prepped the night before. I may try no-chill with a yeast pitch the next day to cut a little more time off. Very little extra equipment and adds about an hour to an extract with steeping grain brew day... Even so I have a couple of extract recipes that are just too good and too easy to bother with converting.

 

[VillageBrew]

I don't mean to high jack the thread, but what is this "no chill" that I keep hearing????

 

[Rev2010]

I don't mean to high jack the thread, but what is this "no chill" that I keep hearing????

Heh, I was just gonna ask the same thing. Please do explain this no chill thing, I'm quite curious.


Rev.

 

[IrregularPulse]

The key to happy brewing is brewing how you enjoy brewing. I love the dedicated brew days. Wife takes the boy somewhere once they wake up (usually around dough in time) and I just hang out brewing and drinking. I also took advantage of AHS's sale a while back to get 3 quick extract batches into fermenters. Whatever works and makes you happy. That's what hobbies are for.

I've also done no chill the last 3 batches to test it out. It does cut some time on brew day, but then you still have work to do the next day and the cube to later clean out. I may do it in the future occasionally, but I have a plate chiller on order as well.

 

[Bradinator]

No chill is a method of cooling you beer (or not), by allowing it to sit overnight. Some people used specialized airtight 'cubes' to contain their wort in, but for myself I simply place a lid on top of my boil kettle and leave it for around 24 hours until its cooled enough to move it into the fermenter. Down sides is some beers will get bad chill haze, and you need to adjust your hop schedule slightly. Upside is time saved, using less water.

Just like switching to all grain and not looking back, I have switched to no chill and haven't looked back since (6 brews in).

Lots of great info here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/exploring-no-chill-brewing-117111/

 

[VillageBrew]

OK. You guys have thrown me for a loop on this on. Doesn't go against everything taught that the wort must be brought down in temp as quickly as possible to eliminate off flavors? Then why spend all the money on chillers? I realize that it is a convienence to get it all done in one day, but I like the idea of splitting up the process in half over two days. Many a late night / early morning I have spent cursing the temp Gods trying to get down to pitching range! Are there any beers that are better to do this with and ones that I should stay clear of?

 

[BOBTHEukBREWER]

Someone is concerned about cutting the cost of safale yeast. Use half a packet and make a starter 4 hours before estimated pitch time and/or make another brew on day 3 and transfer the yeast top from brew 1 straight into brew 2. It works for me.

 

[Bradinator]

OK. You guys have thrown me for a loop on this on. Doesn't go against everything taught that the wort must be brought down in temp as quickly as possible to eliminate off flavors? Then why spend all the money on chillers? I realize that it is a convienence to get it all done in one day, but I like the idea of splitting up the process in half over two days. Many a late night / early morning I have spent cursing the temp Gods trying to get down to pitching range! Are there any beers that are better to do this with and ones that I should stay clear of?

Wheat ales, stouts and any dark or naturally cloudy ales would seem the most appropriate. I have seen some people that no chill and have fantastically clear beers, though none of mine have turned out that way. I am not so worried about the appearance of my beer, just the flavour and so far each have turned out great. I have done two pale ales, one Belgian strong and two blonde ales. I have one more blonde fermenting away now. No off flavours at all, but I tend to due boils over 60 minutes to kill any possible DMS flavours.

I have read a couple other brewers that had a lot of trouble no chilling IPA's. Their experiences were that even with the modified hop schedule the beer ended up extremely bitter, so much so that it ruined the beer. I have not tried an IPA yet myself so I cannot confirm this.

 

[CrookedTail]

Wheat ales, stouts and any dark or naturally cloudy ales would seem the most appropriate. I have seen some people that no chill and have fantastically clear beers, though none of mine have turned out that way. I am not so worried about the appearance of my beer, just the flavour and so far each have turned out great. I have done two pale ales, one Belgian strong and two blonde ales. I have one more blonde fermenting away now. No off flavours at all, but I tend to due boils over 60 minutes to kill any possible DMS flavours.

I have read a couple other brewers that had a lot of trouble no chilling IPA's. Their experiences were that even with the modified hop schedule the beer ended up extremely bitter, so much so that it ruined the beer. I have not tried an IPA yet myself so I cannot confirm this.

The beer probably got infected, which is the biggest risk you take by not chilling your beer quickly. That was a lesson I learned when I first started brewing. I let a batch cool slowly overnight. The beer was extremely bitter. And not the type of bitterness you get from hops. It was really awful tasting.

Honestly I wouldn't recommend doing this. In my experiences my beers improved dramatically (in flavor and appearance) once I started rapidly chilling the wort right after flameout.

 

[Bradinator]

The beer probably got infected, which is the biggest risk you take by not chilling your beer quickly. That was a lesson I learned when I first started brewing. I let a batch cool slowly overnight. The beer was extremely bitter. And not the type of bitterness you get from hops. It was really awful tasting.

Honestly I wouldn't recommend doing this. In my experiences my beers improved dramatically (in flavor and appearance) once I started rapidly chilling the wort right after flameout.

I really don't want high jack this thread and turn it into a no chill vs. chill debate, there are enough of those already on this forum. No chill is very common place in Australian brewing, so its not like there is only a handful of crazy no chill rebels out there. I plan to continue to to no chill my beers (which outside of cloudiness turn out fine, if not fantastic tasting) until the day I feel that its is actually impacting my beers flavour or I find I get an infection from it (so far the number is 0).

I cannot say for sure if those others had infections, but from what I read that was not the case. Also what type of infection only creates additional bitterness? (Not arguing there is no bacteria that does this, but I am not sure which one it is). Feel free to PM me if you want to take this offline.

 

[CrookedTail]

I really don't want high jack this thread and turn it into a no chill vs. chill debate, there are enough of those already on this forum. No chill is very common place in Australian brewing, so its not like there is only a handful of crazy no chill rebels out there. I plan to continue to to no chill my beers (which outside of cloudiness turn out fine, if not fantastic tasting) until the day I feel that its is actually impacting my beers flavour or I find I get an infection from it (so far the number is 0).

I cannot say for sure if those others had infections, but from what I read that was not the case. Also what type of infection only creates additional bitterness? (Not arguing there is no bacteria that does this, but I am not sure which one it is). Feel free to PM me if you want to take this offline.

Astringency caused by a bacterial infection would cause extreme bitterness in a beer.

Don't take what I posted the wrong way. I wasn't trying to knock your process. I'd never do that. I'm an extract w/grains/partial mash brewer, and I hate when people try to put down extract brewing.

If the no-chill method works for you then by all means stick with it.

 

[Bradinator]

Astringency caused by a bacterial infection would cause extreme bitterness in a beer.

Don't take what I posted the wrong way. I wasn't trying to knock your process. I'd never do that. I'm an extract w/grains/partial mash brewer, and I hate when people try to put down extract brewing.

If the no-chill method works for you then by all means stick with it.

No problem I did not think you were knocking my process. I am not ragging on extract at all, as I know from past experience great beers can be made from it. Like I said, so many great ways to make great beer, all based on peoples preferences and situation.

Cheers!

 

[TallyPatriot]

I haven't spent that much on AG equipment, just have to look for deals and improvise. I just did a Rye Saison brew day from start to finish in about 4 hours. No stress just watching the pots boil. I did a few extract beers and they were approaching $40-50 per batch with the price of extract from my LHBS. Now its closer to $20-30 especially now that I am reusing yeast.

Whatever you do I'm sure there are 1,000 different ways to do it and no wrong way as long as you like the beer.

 

[unionrdr]

I like extract brewing so far,steeping grains are ok. Just so many styles/countries exporting DME/LME nowadays,many different flavor combinations can be had in every possible color. So many yeasts & hops to alter those flavors. It's easy to see how much fun can be had once a little knowledge & experience are built up. I need to get to the LHBS to get a couple more things I need to reproduce a rendition of the Burton Australian Ale. That one's gunna be malt heavy,& still deciding on 3-5 different yeast's characteristics. Hope he carries Burton salts.
Anyway,it'll be all extract for those of us that wanna see how far extract brews can go. This is the fun part of brew imagineering.