Stc-1000+

[kivakid]

Thank you, guys! Can't wait to use it in a few days!

 

[Flomaster]

I look forward to getting my stc1000+ working. I tried to do this tonight and failed big time.

first I built my Pro mini which turned out great.

then came the frustration, I had trouble getting the solder out of the hole for the second temp probe. the solder pad came off, but I soldered it anyways. I was told the connection needed to be made on the bottom side of the board. I attempted to desolder the 3 pole thingy and ended up taking part of the board with it. I rigged a fix I believe should work, but now one of the solder pads for the original probe is bad. I need to take it off again and possible rig that as well.

another thing. the RJ54 jack might have have the wires connected in the correct position so I'll have to double check that too. I might ditch the RJ45 all together and go with something simpler that is more straight forward.

oh I loaded the Arduino software and drivers, I sucessfully loaded V1.06 on to the Pro-Mini but when I plugged in the stc1000 I got the loud beeping noise. I didn't try anything else at that point. its too late and my wife is not happy I worked all night on this and didn't help out around the house.

-=Jason=-

 

[alphaomega]

I look forward to getting my stc1000+ working. I tried to do this tonight and failed big time.

first I built my Pro mini which turned out great.

then came the frustration, I had trouble getting the solder out of the hole for the second temp probe. the solder pad came off, but I soldered it anyways. I was told the connection needed to be made on the bottom side of the board. I attempted to desolder the 3 pole thingy and ended up taking part of the board with it. I rigged a fix I believe should work, but now one of the solder pads for the original probe is bad. I need to take it off again and possible rig that as well.

another thing. the RJ54 jack might have have the wires connected in the correct position so I'll have to double check that too. I might ditch the RJ45 all together and go with something simpler that is more straight forward.

oh I loaded the Arduino software and drivers, I sucessfully loaded V1.06 on to the Pro-Mini but when I plugged in the stc1000 I got the loud beeping noise. I didn't try anything else at that point. its too late and my wife is not happy I worked all night on this and didn't help out around the house.

-=Jason=-

Hi!

Nice progress!
Wierd that you had trouble with the solder pads for the probes, that is usually not as bad as clearing the pads for the programmer. It can be troublesome to remove the two pole screw terminal, but a small flat head screwdriver jammed in under it and alternating heat to the two pads usually gets it out.

The loud beeping when you connect the programmer is either that you don't have the probe connected or that the wiring is wrong (it also happens when the wires are in reverse order I have noticed).

Best of luck, both with the build, but not least smooching things over with the missus. You have my sympathies

 

[smithabusa]

As alpha said make sure to have temp sensor connected when connecting to the stc or it will scream at you

 

[Flomaster]

I'm confident that I can get this working. It was late and I want in the best mental state of mind. I made mistakes. I'll get this buttoned up.

 

[smithabusa]

If you get stuck, I am happy to help if you need a last resort to ship it to for flashing etc
Greg

 

[alphaomega]

Hi!
Tonight I was notified of a bug in v1.06 which I find a bit strange that it was not found sooner. When setting a profile every odd profile has the limits for setpoint and duration reversed.
I fixed it and also fixed the soft on temp probe switchy thingy (at least I think so) and put up v1.07.
So new version, but just bugfixes, though I thought the former one was bad enough to warrant a new version.
Cheers!

 

[smithabusa]

Hi!
Tonight I was notified of a bug in v1.06 which I find a bit strange that it was not found sooner. When setting a profile every odd profile has the limits for setpoint and duration reversed.
I fixed it and also fixed the soft on temp probe switchy thingy (at least I think so) and put up v1.07.
So new version, but just bugfixes, though I thought the former one was bad enough to warrant a new version.
Cheers!

Awesome thanks alpha!

 

[stpug]

Hi!
When setting a profile every odd profile has the limits for setpoint and duration reversed.

So that would mean that in firmware v1.06 and earlier, profiles SP1, SP3, SP5 have the following ranges:
setpoints: -40.0 to 999°C or -40.0 to 999°F
durations: 0 to 140C/250F hours (depending on which temp scale you flashed)

Is that correct?

 

[alphaomega]

So that would mean that in firmware v1.06 and earlier, profiles SP1, SP3, SP5 have the following ranges:
setpoints: -40.0 to 999°C or -40.0 to 999°F
durations: 0 to 140C/250F hours (depending on which temp scale you flashed)

Is that correct?

Well, almost. I think it only affects v1.06 as it had some major work done.
And it is profiles Pr1, Pr3 and Pr5 (but I guess that is what you ment). And I think it works out to that setpoints will have limits 0.0 to 99.9 (C and F)
Durations: -400 to 1400(for C) /2500(for F)
(Temperaures are multiplied by 10 internally)
So, I don't think it is critical for both C and F common fermentation range is still there (which might be why nobody found this yet, or ppl just dont use profiles that much).
It is worse that the duration is too 'unrestricted'.

 

[stpug]

Thanks for clearing that up and pointing out the specifics. While I do use profiles extensively in Fahrenheit, I've never had a step go longer than 10 days (240 hours) so I never ran into that limitation. I'll keep this in mind though as there may be one day I need a step to hold over 11 days (RIS, Barleywine, etc). Thanks for the updated firmware - now I just need to open up my boxes and get them flashed.

 

[Flomaster]

Success....

so using the RJ45 Jack and networking cable you can get this working. a little tip get a volt meter out to test continuity. 1-8 on the back of the jack did not line up with pins 1-8 inside the jack. it took some trial and error, but I ended up salvaging the STC-1000 board where the Thermistors connect. I've attached a photo of my fix.

-=Jason=-

 

[lcat45]

Haven't been to this DIY in a while as I got frustrated in not being able to find a STC-1000 that programmable.....does anyone know of a reliable source to buy one that is programmable....Have enough of the others on hand....thanks

 

[doug293cz]

Haven't been to this DIY in a while as I got frustrated in not being able to find a STC-1000 that programmable.....does anyone know of a reliable source to buy one that is programmable....Have enough of the others on hand....thanks

Both of these guys sell flashed STC-1000's and may have some unflashed, but flashable ones. They also sell completely built controllers that are very nice. Check the web sites for availability. You'll pay a little more than Ebay or Amazon, but you will get the correct STC-1000. Money saved most of the time.

http://www.blackboxbrew.com/
http://www.brewsbysmith.com/

Brew on

 

[smithabusa]

I (brewsbysmith) have them in stock already flashed with 1.06 software if you are interested in bare stc controller only, diy kits, and assembled controllers.

Greg

 

[rosenhop]

Just attempted flashing my STC-1000. I finally got one with the right board. I was following the directions per the great video at www.blackboxbrew.com.

I keep getting the error STC-1000 NOT detected.

I originally was soldering my connection. After doing so I was having some issues getting the STC-1000 to get power from the arduino. Figured I got something crossed or solder was crossing two of the connections. De-soldered, cleaned it all up. And then tried a manual connection. Getting power to the STC-1000 right now.

I open the sketch, make a good connection between STC adn arduino, plug in arduino, upload sketch to correct com, go to serial monitor, all is looking good for line and baud and it asks me to enter d. enter d and dang...STC-1000 Not Detected. Everytime.

What gives?

PS - It says Device ID is 0x0.

 

[BeerPaal]

Hi.
Greetings from Norway!
I have just flashed 2 STC1000 to v1,07 and i going to try them on my conical stainless steel fermenters with cooling jacked. I going to try to use the 2nd probe for temperature on cooling jacked.
Also i want to be able have logging and have read this stc1000-datalogger. I wonder if someone know if it also a way to access this over the network by adding a wifi module on it? And read the log directly?

 

[alphaomega]

Just attempted flashing my STC-1000. I finally got one with the right board. I was following the directions per the great video at www.blackboxbrew.com.

I keep getting the error STC-1000 NOT detected.

I originally was soldering my connection. After doing so I was having some issues getting the STC-1000 to get power from the arduino. Figured I got something crossed or solder was crossing two of the connections. De-soldered, cleaned it all up. And then tried a manual connection. Getting power to the STC-1000 right now.

I open the sketch, make a good connection between STC adn arduino, plug in arduino, upload sketch to correct com, go to serial monitor, all is looking good for line and baud and it asks me to enter d. enter d and dang...STC-1000 Not Detected. Everytime.

What gives?

PS - It says Device ID is 0x0.

99% percent chance of wiring error. Check that the connections are good, (that is that they are to the correct place and that you have continuity).

Hi.
Greetings from Norway!
I have just flashed 2 STC1000 to v1,07 and i going to try them on my conical stainless steel fermenters with cooling jacked. I going to try to use the 2nd probe for temperature on cooling jacked.
Also i want to be able have logging and have read this stc1000-datalogger. I wonder if someone know if it also a way to access this over the network by adding a wifi module on it? And read the log directly?

Hi!
Nice! The datalogging sketch is pretty much only work I've started on, but it could at least be a starting point. Reading the tempsensors work at least.
This might be a startingpoint to get cheap WiFi.

 

[rosenhop]

Hi guys!

I've been gearing up for an attempt to sell a few preflashed units here in sweden. While I won't be selling a finished product like Will, I will offer to include a programmer. So I thought I'd share my take on how to make a dedicated programmer for the stc-1000. Sorry, for the picture heavy post, and for the image quality.

This is the material used. An Arduino pro mini 5V 16Mhz (or rather a cheap chinese knockoff) + CP2102 (RS232 TTL to USB converter) combo, $5 on ebay. 20cm (about 8 inches) female-female 5 pin dupont cable (I buy these in ten packs, don't really know the cost, but they are cheap). I also use some 15mm diameter shrink tubing and some hot glue (not shown in picture) to make a nicer end product, so that is optional.

I start by straightening the pinheader on the CP2102. It is a 90 degree bend pinheader and I need it straight(ish).

The 3.3V pin needs to go. You could probably just cut it, but I heat up the solder with the soldering iron while at the same time puling it from the other end with some pliers.

The pin is out.

I just prop on the pro mini, the pins line up correctly and solder it in.

Cut off the excess pins length.

Then just cut off one end of the dupont cable. Strip just a little bit of insulation off the end of each cable and pre tin. Solder each cable in the correct position (9, 8, GND, VCC, 3). Best to feed it from below the board, as the reset button (which will still work) is on the other side.

I cut a few pieces of hot glue and put around and under the wires. Then feed it through and appropriately cut length shrink tubing (usb connector first). 15mm dia shrink tubing is a snug fit, it is absolutely the correct size. When heating the tubing, the glue will melt and make a cheapish stress relief.

This is the finished product. Just plug into the STC and USB port and flash away
Yes, the cable is kind of short and there are no connectors that can be mounted in the enclosure. I have decided to do it this way to keep it simple for me to build and cheap, but still fully working as is. If the user wants to, he/she can by themselves buy the connector of their choice and make adapters.

Hope this will be of interest for someone

Cheers!

That is awesome. I just flashed one and was thinking about how to do this. I've been reading the blog from the beginning and just came across. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your work on this. Truly amazing. Quick questions...with this set up am I cutting the arduino uno R3 out entirely and replacing with the arduino mini? So I usb to my computer, and header to the STC and then flash? Does this only work for updates or can I use this setup in place of an arduino uno all together? Thanks!

 

[alphaomega]

That is awesome. I just flashed one and was thinking about how to do this. I've been reading the blog from the beginning and just came across. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your work on this. Truly amazing. Quick questions...with this set up am I cutting the arduino uno R3 out entirely and replacing with the arduino mini? So I usb to my computer, and header to the STC and then flash? Does this only work for updates or can I use this setup in place of an arduino uno all together? Thanks!

Exactly, the pro mini completely replaces the UNO. And thanks!

 

[alphaomega]

Hi!
I've had some requests for an stc version that works in minutes instead of hours. So I finally decided to something about that.
It is currently located here (as a branch of the original stc-1000+), but if it turns out good I might move it as a project of its own.
It is pretty much exactly the same, only it does not save state on every 'tick' as it would wear out the EEPROM, so it only saves state when it changes step. That means in case of a power outage, it restarts the from the beginning of the currently executing step.
If anyone is interested in this, please test it and report back (like even if it works super awesome). It is 99% stc-1000+ code with a few changes so it should be fairly close to production quality, but there can be bugs. Things that can be off is timing (how close to a minute is a minute) and there could be bugs in the menu/settings as I had to remove St and dh settings from it.
Cheers!

 

[HansEinar]

Oao! Great!
Already flash one. Can you explain a few things..?
If rP is used, will i struggle to follow that during heat or has rP no meaning?
Does counter start when lower hy is reached? (Think so)


And a wish or two..
OP(Output Power) in pi software was excellent. With that parameter i could archive perfect boil, as I use it as at power reducer... I that possible?

If hd is in hour, and setting that to 8 produce ready water to mach-in next morning..

Again, thank you!

 

[alphaomega]

Oao! Great!
Already flash one. Can you explain a few things..?
If rP is used, will i struggle to follow that during heat or has rP no meaning?
Does counter start when lower hy is reached? (Think so)


And a wish or two..
OP(Output Power) in pi software was excellent. With that parameter i could archive perfect boil, as I use it as at power reducer... I that possible?

If hd is in hour, and setting that to 8 produce ready water to mach-in next morning..

Again, thank you!

Hi!

Ramping (rP) works just as in the regular firmware, only in minutes.

Heating starts when temp is less than SP-hy, cooling starts when temp is greater than SP+hy, and they both will stop when SP is reached. Same as in the regular stc-1000+. Was that what you ment? Or what do you mean by counter? The heating/cooling delays? They both are reset when either heating or cooling is turned off.

No, for this firmware it won't be possible as it uses pure thermostat logic. But maybe there is room for more firmwares

Heating delay (hd) is in minutes and a maximum of 60 (one hour) I think. You'd probably be better off using an initial step of 8*60=480 minutes and a setpoint that is below the water temp for delaying strike water heatup. Just check to see if it accurate enough first, I haven't done more than 8minutes of testing

 

[Gerald-Eberle]

Hi Mats, you are my hero!
Thanks a lot for the minute’s version. I put it on my STC and from now on I call it STC-1000++
Cool beans man cool beans I will try it on a sourdough fermentation this weekend, because I want to beak some bread.
I´ll keep you updated.

Regards Gerald

 

[alphaomega]

Hi Mats, you are my hero!
Thanks a lot for the minute’s version. I put it on my STC and from now on I call it STC-1000++
Cool beans man cool beans I will try it on a sourdough fermentation this weekend, because I want to beak some bread.
I´ll keep you updated.

Regards Gerald

Excellent! Please do share any and all experiences. If you find bugs or something that needs improvement, let me know.

 

[HansEinar]

Run some tests tonight. There is one thing I wonder. When power up it did not come to exact temperature immediately. It uses several seconds to find the right temperature. Is it slow probe or is it the algorithms in the program that does this.

When I compare with accurate quickly sensor in parallel it is 1-1.5C under current temperature when the temperature rises. This causes the overshot more than what had been necessary.

I'll run more tests and documents with graphs and excel data later.

 

[alphaomega]

That is a good point.
Stc-1000+ uses fairly aggressive filtering. It might be a good idea to tone it down a bit (or three) for this version as well.

 

[HansEinar]

Perhaps that is one of the problems with the -pi also? or is it less aggressive filtering in that version?

 

[alphaomega]

No, the PI(D) uses very little filtering. It is the I part (the integrator) that in practice filters.
Problem? I still think the problem is in the need of tuning. It is a non trivial task to tune.

 

[HansEinar]

Done some real testing. Here is the setup:

Here is the result:

Datafile:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9236068/Pr0.txt

There is a bug in first level. As you can see the ramp of 50C is ignored. Try this twise just to make sure.

Else; Work great. With less filtering the and faster response it is perfect.

I use
hy=0.1
cd=0
hd=0
rP=0

I calibrate temp at aprox 15C (tc=+0.4C) and notised that i need anoter 0.4C when temp is higher, at aprox 70C. Maby the temp scale is not linear?

Great job Mats!!