Yes - you can try using a q-tip and some denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol. Be careful to keep it off of the display, try and clean only the solder pads where your trying to make contact. Clean the back side of the board, where there are no components.
Stc-1000+
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Yes - you can try using a q-tip and some denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol. Be careful to keep it off of the display, try and clean only the solder pads where your trying to make contact. Clean the back side of the board, where there are no components.
truvr
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That's the one I ordered and I got a v1.1. I think it's a crapshoot. Good luck!
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wilconrad
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Yes, that's what I did. I've flashed 2 controllers now and the first one went well, but the second one gave me trouble with this method because one of the holes didn't have any solder in it. I ended up soldering in a pin header on that one. Good luck, hope it works for you.
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alphaomega
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Ok, I have now pushed version v1.02 to work branch. I have reworked averaging to work on temperature instead of on AD value. Averaging A/D value should help stability, but does nothing for resolution. Averaging temperature should in theory allow better resolution as well. I haven't done much testing on this yet though.
I'm stumped. I have tested downloading the packaged, unzip, upload and flash and I can't reproduce.
I'll try to do some more extensive testing, but this seems like very odd behaviour.
Crapshoot exactly. You got to understand this:
Sold by LERWAY Tech. and Fulfilled by Amazon.
The clue lies in "fulfilled" you're not buying directly from LERWAY, you're buying from one of their stockpiles stored in one of Amazon's distribution centers. We don't know where, how or when they've been sourced.It's a real pain in the a$$ having both versions around with no guarantee which you'll get. Keep rolling those dice...
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I think I may know what I'm doing wrong. I just realized when you said "upload" that I'm forgetting that I do need to send the sketch to the arduino before doing the flash. Just having the sketch open and going straight to the serial monitor won't work. Duh!
I'll try again later but I think we can chalk this one up to an ID10T error.
Sorry for wasting your time on that!
On another note, I went to flash another STC that I have. The first one that I got years back on the slow boat from eBay and found out that it was v1.1. Odd, considering that was the one I was fully expecting to be a v1.0.
It does make one wonder how long there has been two versions of these things kicking around.
I'll try again later but I think we can chalk this one up to an ID10T error.
Sorry for wasting your time on that!
On another note, I went to flash another STC that I have. The first one that I got years back on the slow boat from eBay and found out that it was v1.1. Odd, considering that was the one I was fully expecting to be a v1.0.
It does make one wonder how long there has been two versions of these things kicking around.
Wilberforce
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I'm curious - why use a arduino yun at $70 when you can use a raspberry pi at $35?
Is it about the stability of using a micro controller?
I'm guessing it is because the BrewPi firmware is made to run on an Arduino microcontroller and not a full blown PC.
alphaomega
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No problem. Glad you got it sorted!
I think it is worth mentioning again, that the different version of the boards refer to two entirely different PCB's (S1000-Power_V1.1 vs. A400_P Version:1.0), they have no relation. So the one referred to as v1.1 may very well be older than the one referred to as v1.0. That is, they are not versions of the same thing...
That is true. Porting BrewPi to the Yún is pretty much a matter of tweaking the Arduino code to match the Arduino side side of the hardware and making sure the correct dependencies exist on the linux side. Making it all run on a Raspberry would need a pretty decent reimplementation of the entire Arduino code base.
I have made some more progress on that, but I'm afraid it will be slow for a while due to easter and family obligations.
The Raspberry Pi has very limited I/O (approximately 17 pins of mixed use)
The YUN has more I/O (20 pins mixed use)
Raspberry Pi has 10/100 Ethernet only
The YUN has 10/100 and WIFI
The YUN can directly connect to a plethora of Arduino Sheilds. Not so easy on the Pi.
One huge advantage of the Pi is software support, lots of distributions to use. Not sure about the YUN.
The YUN actually has two MCU's - one for the linux side and one for the Arduino side. The Pi has one.
I'm sure there is more... Graphics capability, memory, etc... google YUN vs Raspberry Pi
BMGfan
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On the connector front, they're a bit big, but if you have some spare space in your stc-1000 controller enclosure a 9 pin female d connector is dirt cheap and easy to find....
alphaomega
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The mini xlr that I'm referring to are in no way bigger than D-subs...
User Manual Comments.
1. Reorganize the 'Using STC-1000+ firmware" section into
features
Display and buttons - Describe what each button does when pushed.
Add picture of the display, explaining what is shown.
Describe what is displayed/flashed, etc.
Menu/programming
What you have already looks good.
2. Could you add the default values to the menu section so one knows what it started at.
3. Update doc to say 64 ramp steps, not 8.
Possible features ?
o flash display between current temp, program, step, set point ?
o Give names to profiles and display that ? Otherwise one has to remember
profile 4 is for Alts, 2 is for Lagers, etc.
o
Thanks.
1. Reorganize the 'Using STC-1000+ firmware" section into
features
Display and buttons - Describe what each button does when pushed.
Add picture of the display, explaining what is shown.
Describe what is displayed/flashed, etc.
Menu/programming
What you have already looks good.
2. Could you add the default values to the menu section so one knows what it started at.
3. Update doc to say 64 ramp steps, not 8.
Possible features ?
o flash display between current temp, program, step, set point ?
o Give names to profiles and display that ? Otherwise one has to remember
profile 4 is for Alts, 2 is for Lagers, etc.
o
Thanks.
alphaomega
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Thanks for the feedback!
I'll try to adress them.
1. It could probably be better organized and explained better and in more detail. I'll keep your comments on the buttons/menus in mind when I get around to it.
2. Not a bad idea. Noted. I would also like to have better defaults for the profiles, but that might not happen... I have no good source for profiles.
3. Absolutely. I need to remember to update the manual for each release...
Regarding rolling between the values on the display, that might be possible. I would not prefer that, but does not mean others won't and it could be configurable. I won't prioritize that, but I'll add it as a feature request.
Naming profiles would be nice, but I think that is just not possible. The limitations of the display is one thing. Eeprom and programspace is also scarce.
alphaomega
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Hi guys!
I have release v1.03 is out. I kind of rushed this one out, as I found a bug that was not so nice. For normal fermentation temperatures I wouldn't be noticed but temperatures above 102.3 would overflow interpolation algorithm. Again, it is kind of untested code, but due to the bug, I think it probably is good to get it out sooner.
On the upside, I managed to get a filtering scheme working (I stumbled upon 'leaky integration' which is easy on the hardware) and also made some improvement on interpolation. These are pretty big improvements in my book (better temperature stability and resolution), even if it might not be evident for the casual user.
I have release v1.03 is out. I kind of rushed this one out, as I found a bug that was not so nice. For normal fermentation temperatures I wouldn't be noticed but temperatures above 102.3 would overflow interpolation algorithm. Again, it is kind of untested code, but due to the bug, I think it probably is good to get it out sooner.
On the upside, I managed to get a filtering scheme working (I stumbled upon 'leaky integration' which is easy on the hardware) and also made some improvement on interpolation. These are pretty big improvements in my book (better temperature stability and resolution), even if it might not be evident for the casual user.
BMGfan
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Just to clarify I was referring to the d connectors being a bit big. Sorry for not being clear.
alphaomega
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Ah... I need to improve on my reading comprehension skills. Sorry.
I agree, D-subs will work just fine and can be scavenged from pretty much anywhere.
I agree, D-subs will work just fine and can be scavenged from pretty much anywhere.
if I'm currently in the middle of a run with V1.01 - will re-flashing start it over again or will it start where it left off?
Snicklefritz
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I guess I'm in the club. I've never messed with an arduino before but I managed to get my STC-1000 reprogrammed in about 20 minutes.
I used the no solder method and to take it a step further, I didn't even buy a header. I just taped 5 male to male dupont cables together in a makeshift header. Worked out great. Haven't had time to test the firmware out yet but I am building it into a ferm chamber I plan on finishing this weekend so should be able to test it soon. The directions and process really couldn't have been easier. Thanks to alphaomega for such a great project.
I used the no solder method and to take it a step further, I didn't even buy a header. I just taped 5 male to male dupont cables together in a makeshift header. Worked out great. Haven't had time to test the firmware out yet but I am building it into a ferm chamber I plan on finishing this weekend so should be able to test it soon. The directions and process really couldn't have been easier. Thanks to alphaomega for such a great project.
Not necessarily, but it depends on the changes he implemented. There's 2 flash options -- flashing just the ROM and no EEPROM, and then there's flashing both.
Bottom line -- just wait it out til your run is done, unless you're having some issues.
alphaomega
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Yes, that is right. If you dont mess with eeprom when flashing, then it should start up in the right place and continue the run. But I agree with nickmv, just leave it be for this run as long as you dont plan on raising temp above 100F (and I dont think you will)
It's a saison - and it's headed for 85f...
I believe it should start ramping up tonight.Lumpyyyyy
Well-Known Member
2 Questions:
1. Do you need the arduino connected at all times or is it just for programming?
2. If you do need it at all times, would anyone be interested in me designing a case that houses both securely? I personally would do it for myself but can upload the specs for anyone wanting to make their own (via Makerbot or whatever).
1. Do you need the arduino connected at all times or is it just for programming?
2. If you do need it at all times, would anyone be interested in me designing a case that houses both securely? I personally would do it for myself but can upload the specs for anyone wanting to make their own (via Makerbot or whatever).
Agtronic
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Hey guys, just thought I'd drop this in here. If anyone wants a SolidWorks model of an STC-1000, I spent the better part of yesterday planning out my box and got a little carried away with details. I'm happy to share the file. The dimensions are accurate.
And this is what I have planned:
Thought it could be helpful!
And this is what I have planned:
Thought it could be helpful!
alphaomega
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That is... Well... Wow. Nice.
That's very nice. What are the switches for?
Agtronic
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Thanks guys! The first switch is the main power to kill the entire box and the other two are just auxiliaries for the two extra sockets on the back. I figured it might be useful in the future, maybe to run a fan inside the fridge for the tower or something like that.
I'm now looking into the Arduino stuff. Looking forward to playing with that side of it!
I'm now looking into the Arduino stuff. Looking forward to playing with that side of it!
Agtronic
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The box is made by Hammond Canada, and it looks pretty much exactly the same as in my renderings, I am basically using it upside down. It was ~$12.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg4.htm
http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg4.htm
Snicklefritz
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Hope its OK to share this here. Just finished my ferm chamber with built in STC-1000+. Working Great!
Hope its OK to share this here. Just finished my ferm chamber with built in STC-1000+. Working Great!
Cool! You have a fermentation chamber that survived the war
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I have a question about how the the ramping and editing a current set point works.
Let's say that I'm in the middle of a ramping process from 60-70F over 8 days and I decide mid-way that I want to ramp to 75F instead. If I change the current set point, how does that effect my current ramp in progress?
Will it even see it?
Does it start the clock over at 8 days?
Does it just pick up the new set point and divide the ramp from the current temp by 64 and start from there leaving the clock where it was (assuming v1.01 or higher)?
Then another question. With the ramping divided by 64 now, does it still only update every hour, or will it update the set point multiple times in an hour if your ramping period is short?
I have two flashed with 1.03 and one will likely be fermenting an IPA starting this weekend. Flashing works a lot better when you actually upload to the arduino (facepalm)
Let's say that I'm in the middle of a ramping process from 60-70F over 8 days and I decide mid-way that I want to ramp to 75F instead. If I change the current set point, how does that effect my current ramp in progress?
Will it even see it?
Does it start the clock over at 8 days?
Does it just pick up the new set point and divide the ramp from the current temp by 64 and start from there leaving the clock where it was (assuming v1.01 or higher)?
Then another question. With the ramping divided by 64 now, does it still only update every hour, or will it update the set point multiple times in an hour if your ramping period is short?
I have two flashed with 1.03 and one will likely be fermenting an IPA starting this weekend. Flashing works a lot better when you actually upload to the arduino (facepalm)
alphaomega
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Ok, so with a ramp over 8 days, setpoint will update every third hour (as there are 8*24=196 hours and with 64 substeps, 196/64=3 hours).
Now, if the ramp goes from 60 to 70F, then at you can calc the new setpoint bu calculating how far along in the step you are. For simplicitys sake say you are 64 hours in, 64/196 = 1/3. If you are one third in, then there is 1 - 1/3 = 2/3 left to go.
The setpoint will then be 60 * 2/3+ 70 * 1/3 = 63.3 F.
If before this calculation took place, you change the profile so the step ends in 75, then the calculation will be 60*2/3+75*1/3=65 F.
So, updating the profile during the step will work, but as in this case, it will result in a "jump" in the setpoint. This might be acceptable in this case, but you could get tricky and also lower the first setpoint to counter the the jump if needed.
Also note that you shouldnt change the setpoint, SP, directly when running a profile, as it will be overwritten within the hour. Setpoint is not a part of the calculation, it is only the result.
Hope this made some sense...
Now, if the ramp goes from 60 to 70F, then at you can calc the new setpoint bu calculating how far along in the step you are. For simplicitys sake say you are 64 hours in, 64/196 = 1/3. If you are one third in, then there is 1 - 1/3 = 2/3 left to go.
The setpoint will then be 60 * 2/3+ 70 * 1/3 = 63.3 F.
If before this calculation took place, you change the profile so the step ends in 75, then the calculation will be 60*2/3+75*1/3=65 F.
So, updating the profile during the step will work, but as in this case, it will result in a "jump" in the setpoint. This might be acceptable in this case, but you could get tricky and also lower the first setpoint to counter the the jump if needed.
Also note that you shouldnt change the setpoint, SP, directly when running a profile, as it will be overwritten within the hour. Setpoint is not a part of the calculation, it is only the result.
Hope this made some sense...
I've been watching this post since I saw it posted on r/homebrewing finally got some time to take apart my stc1000 to check the version and want to make sure that I have the right version of the stc1000 I've uploaded two pictures one of the main board that shows the A400_P Version 1.0. The other picture shows the board with the buttons and it says A400_D&M:Version1.1 should I be worried about the version 1.1 on that board with the buttons? Would it be possible for someone that has flashed to check their board with the buttons and see if it matches what I have? Once I can confirm I'll be flashing. Thanks for all the hard work on this Alpha it's much appreciated!
wilconrad
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That's the right board (v1.0), flash away!
As far as I have seen what people say, if you have the 5 pin socket, you should be good to go. The others don't have a place to put the pins.
On another note, when setting the hour durations how exactly does that work? What I mean is the little number. Is that part of the hour or is it a fraction of the hour. For 24hrs does it need to be 240(little zero) or 24(little 4)? Might be another good tip for the manual!
On another note, when setting the hour durations how exactly does that work? What I mean is the little number. Is that part of the hour or is it a fraction of the hour. For 24hrs does it need to be 240(little zero) or 24(little 4)? Might be another good tip for the manual!
Lumpyyyyy
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Hey guys, just thought I'd drop this in here. If anyone wants a SolidWorks model of an STC-1000, I spent the better part of yesterday planning out my box and got a little carried away with details. I'm happy to share the file. The dimensions are accurate.
And this is what I have planned:
Thought it could be helpful!
I have solidworks and am interested in doing something like this as well. Care to share the file? I have some ideas for improvement for it as well.
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