Stc-1000+

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alphaomega said:
I think you will need to remove the pin labeled 'cts', other than that, it looks like the pins you need line up fine (dtr-dtr, txd-rxd, rxd-txd, vcc-5v and gnd-gnd). But before you do anything permanent see if you can test if it will work. You can for example bend just the cts pin straight, plug in the usb and fire up arduino ide. Make sure you find the com port, if you do, you can try to upload a sketch by simply attaching the arduino to the pins and press slightly to make the connection. If you can upload like this, you are good to go. Remove the pin and solder it up.

Edit: By press slightly, I mean that your arduino will be pointing up (vertically), put some pressure on the top of it (horisontally) so that it wants to bend against the pins. This way you will have a good connection (I've done this myself a couple of times to upload a sketch without having to solder in the connector on the arduino).
Click to expand...

smithabusa said:
That's right, tx and rx and reversed
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. I bent the CTS out of the way. I've tried it now the exact alignment Pro-Mini -> USB; DTR->DTR, TXD->RXD; RXI->TXD; VCC->5v; Open->Open; GND->GND. I also tried with DTR->TXD and TXD->TXD.

Each time I get the error message:
Done Uploading
Binary sketch size: 29,986 bytes (of a 30,720 byte maximum)
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

Google informs me this is an indication that my PC is not communicating with my arduino.

USB has a red light when I plug into pc and when I hook pro mini to USB I get a red light as well a blinking red light near the reset button.

When plugged up to the the USB and put on a multimeter with VCC and GND I am reading 5V and appear to have good continuity between USB and Pro Mini for all connections.

I tried selecting a few different ATmega328 boards from Arduino IDE. Same results other than it informed me I didn't have enough space for the sketch on a few of them.

Any other ideas?

Edit - The IDE is only showing COM3. I can see my pc is recognizing the USB port when I plug it in, does not specify a COM# nor does it recognize the arduino when connected to the USB.
 
It's the com port setting, go to device manager and make sure its driver is installed, you may have to go to their site. Then in pic prog make sure that the com port being used in device manager is selected. Had the same issue today had to reboot to finally get comport 5 to display which is what I could see in device manager
 
@Smithabusa
#lifesaver

Downloaded and imstalled a cp2101 driver. Successfully uploaded sketch. Did not get a chance to flash my STC, but will give it a go lster today.

Appreciate the help.
 
Anyone able to point me in the direction of a good size enclosure for this? Prefer something that is well sized, not an electrical enclosure box. I have access to a machine shop so fabrication is no problem and would prefer to order from digikey/mcmaster/mouser since my co. has accounts with them.
 
Lumpyyyyy said:
Anyone able to point me in the direction of a good size enclosure for this? Prefer something that is well sized, not an electrical enclosure box. I have access to a machine shop so fabrication is no problem and would prefer to order from digikey/mcmaster/mouser since my co. has accounts with them.
Click to expand...

I sell them already machined for my DIY kits if you are interested, its a polycase, I think they only sell direct, not through other distributors.

polycase.jpg
 
You can buy those enclosures at any RadioShack but they don't come pre-machined
 
Ok, time for an update.
I've been working on the next version. Nothing really major, but I have cleaned up the code a bit more and made a few technical improvements.
Biggest actual change is that I have dropped one profile and added an extra parameter at the end of each profile (nr or next runmode), it can be set to profile 0-4, th or off. So when the profile completes it either starts another (or the same) profile, switches to thermostat mode (with the last known setpoint) or switches to soft off mode.
This makes profiles more versatile, but might not add a lot usage for fermentation.
I have yet to update documentation and I also plan to include the newer profile editor/hex generator (but I need to update that aswell now).
Note that eeprom layout also has changed.
I'd like feedback / test results before I make a release, so please try it out (it is located in the work branch)
Oh, and I you're one of the brave few, please try and keep an eye on the timing (I have switched to a 16 bit timer to generate a better 16 Hz clock, so a minute should be closer to a minute and hopefully an hour should still be pretty close to an hour).

I've also been working on a firmware to control a one vessel brewing system (like a brewmeister type setup or even biab). It is still pretty early on, but it is shaping up quite nicely. It is mainly for my own purposes, but you can check it out if you want to. It is currently located here.

Cheers!
 
alphaomega said:
I've also been working on a firmware to control a one vessel brewing system (like a brewmeister type setup or even biab). It is still pretty early on, but it is shaping up quite nicely. It is mainly for my own purposes, but you can check it out if you want to. It is currently located here.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

This ^ is awesome, I was going to try to rig something up so I could set a timer and wake up to hot strike water, looks like I can just set a delay before it starts the profile.

Quick question about flashing the controllers. Do you need to pull the nMCLR line down while flashing? We have SILabs debug adapters at work and I was thinking of trying to flash one with that.

Thanks for all your work on this.

-Ryan
 
Went to use the web profile editor yesterday and it wouldn't work. Is it being worked on? No biggy, just a nice way to verify my settings!

Thanks!
Casey B.
 
I looked around and didn't see this, so....

I have the STC-1000+ hooked up, running in thermostat mode, and although the setpoint (SP) in the settings is set to 34.2, the unit is constantly in cooling mode (indicator light on the top left). I am uncertain what is going on, and can't get it to shut the freezer off. The temperature was showing 26 degrees, and I have had to unplug the freezer to get it to stop.

My Kolsch will appreciate whatever help and insight you can provide.

T
 
kivakid said:
Went to use the web profile editor yesterday and it wouldn't work. Is it being worked on? No biggy, just a nice way to verify my settings!

Thanks!
Casey B.
Click to expand...

It might be my own fault, for putting stuff up on my drive and generating a bad short URL at some point. Ti should be ok if you use this link.
http://goo.gl/z1KEoi

banesong said:
I looked around and didn't see this, so....

I have the STC-1000+ hooked up, running in thermostat mode, and although the setpoint (SP) in the settings is set to 34.2, the unit is constantly in cooling mode (indicator light on the top left). I am uncertain what is going on, and can't get it to shut the freezer off. The temperature was showing 26 degrees, and I have had to unplug the freezer to get it to stop.

My Kolsch will appreciate whatever help and insight you can provide.

T
Click to expand...

Odd. I assue it has been working properly before? And it is not a matter of flashing the fareheit version when expecting celsius readout? What firmware version are you using?
When you say temp readout of 26, that is on the STC? Did is change, or was the value 'frozen'?
I seem to recall someone experiencing a hung controller at some point, it was ok after he powercycled it. Seems weird to me, as it uses a watchdog timer, that should reset the unit if it becomes unresponsive.
 
alphaomega said:
Odd. I assue it has been working properly before? And it is not a matter of flashing the fareheit version when expecting celsius readout? What firmware version are you using?
When you say temp readout of 26, that is on the STC? Did is change, or was the value 'frozen'?
I seem to recall someone experiencing a hung controller at some point, it was ok after he powercycled it. Seems weird to me, as it uses a watchdog timer, that should reset the unit if it becomes unresponsive.
Click to expand...


Alpha:

No, it has not been working. This is the initial setup. All temps are showing F, and I will try and figure out the firmware version - I got this one pre-flashed.

WRT the temp showing 26, it was not frozen, it was still dropping down - I unplugged the freezer to keep from inadvertently creating an ice beer. I powercycled the controller this morning; I will try and let it cool again this evening after work.
 
Ok.
If the temp reading is updating, then it is pretty safe to assume it has not locked up. Double check settings (not that I think there is anything wrong, but hysteresis for example could be a thing).
Well, if it wasn't' functional "before" there is of course the off chance that either the controller and/or flashing is bad. But I wouldn't jump to that conclusion, do some 'bech testing' (that is not on actual beer)...

Cheers!
//mats
 
Thanks again - I plan to keep a close eye on it for a while. I also reset a bunch of the settings back to default, but... who knows?
 
Also make sure you aren't looking at the secondary probe readout, even with it not turned on you can see a value, and it won't match the primary temp sensor, I've seen this cause confusion before. Pushing the power button will cycle between temp sensor 1 and 2
 
I recently purchase a ITC-1000 for $15.00 on ebay it appears to be identical please see the attached pictures. Let me know if you think the firmware could be loaded on this controller.

IMG_2450.jpg


IMG_2445.jpg


IMG_2446.jpg


IMG_2447.jpg


IMG_2448.jpg


IMG_2449.jpg
 
Here's a summary of post regarding your "ITC-1000" unit.

Posts asking if these units can be flashed with STC-1000+ firmware:
DoomsDayBrewery said:
I recently purchase a ITC-1000 for $15.00 on ebay it appears to be identical please see the attached pictures. Let me know if you think the firmware could be loaded on this controller.
Click to expand...
misin4mati0n said:
Looks like there may be a new hardware version. I posted it on GitHub but I figure I would share it here as well. When I cracked my STC-1000 open to flash it the header pins were spread out across the front of the board. Looking for a labeled pin out so I can try and flash mine. I have ordered a new one to see if it is the same.
<image-removed>
Click to expand...

This is the short answer:
alphaomega said:
This has been discussed before.
Short answer is no.
Click to expand...

This is the long answer:
alphaomega said:
Well, I think I did some research on the matter. If I remember correctly, then this MCU should be supported by SDCC, which is positive. The general hardware specs seem somewhat similar, which is also positive. On the downside, this is a completely different architecture and while the code probably could be ported, it would be a non trivial task and one might be forced to make trade offs. This is not a PIC, and the sketch for uploading will need to be completely rewritten for this arch.
The biggest issue would probably be that I can't find a decent enough datasheet and specifically data on the programming interface and protocol. I also don't have access to any such unit, so even with the specs, I can't do much.
I would absolutely give porting a shot, but without the prerequisites there is just no chance. So if you want to see this happen, try and find some good data sheet and specifically data on how programming the MCU is performed.
It sounds like Will might have found a good source for 'good' units, so I think your best bet is to try and source one from him.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
 
DoomsDayBrewery said:
I recently purchase a ITC-1000 for $15.00 on ebay it appears to be identical please see the attached pictures. Let me know if you think the firmware could be loaded on this controller.
Click to expand...

Well, @StPug is right, that is a totally different board and MCU. So, not STC-1000+ compatible. Sorry.
 
smithabusa said:
Also make sure you aren't looking at the secondary probe readout, even with it not turned on you can see a value, and it won't match the primary temp sensor, I've seen this cause confusion before. Pushing the power button will cycle between temp sensor 1 and 2
Click to expand...

Okay - foolish question:

Is there any way to tell from the readout if it is the first or second temp probe? If no probe is attached, what should it be reading?
 
smithabusa said:
Also make sure you aren't looking at the secondary probe readout, even with it not turned on you can see a value, and it won't match the primary temp sensor, I've seen this cause confusion before. Pushing the power button will cycle between temp sensor 1 and 2
Click to expand...

banesong said:
Okay - foolish question:

Is there any way to tell from the readout if it is the first or second temp probe? If no probe is attached, what should it be reading?
Click to expand...

Maybe answering myself, but... One dot on the top right is first temp probe, two dots (one right, one center) is the second?

Still uncertain as to what the second probe should read if it is not connected.
 
banesong said:
Maybe answering myself, but... One dot on the top right is first temp probe, two dots (one right, one center) is the second?

Still uncertain as to what the second probe should read if it is not connected.
Click to expand...

you are correct, it will float around when nothing connected
 
augiedoggy said:
awesome! since when? I could have sworn only the version 1.0 was flashable? any idea where I could find the jtag wiring setup?
Click to expand...

(eating crow while typing) I'm sorry but I think I'm wrong about v1.1 being supported. I could have sworn I had read that it was but everything I can find now indicates that it's not.
 
stpug said:
@augiedoggy
Okay, well I found what I had recalled here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-1000-a-464348/index149.html#post6539297

In the picture you can definitely see it says it's v1.1 and has the obvious 5 pin location. Is this what yours looks like?
Click to expand...

no unfortunatly mine are Elitech units and say "STC1000-power_V1.1" with a date of 06.20 2009 on the board (I assume its a date)
the display board however is an "stc1000-Display_V1.0" though which makes things more confusing...
The one I bought a year ago is the same thing.

I read through most of the thread last night and have seen that there are many versions some from the same suppliers... I do have some of the "other controllers that look like an stc 1000 but have a completly different menu structure and use Fahrenheit instead. I'm not even going to bother checking those.
 
Hey Alpha; Have you measured the current used by the Stc1000 ? I was hoping to
drive a 10-20ma fan/relay from the internal power supply. I see the converter is rated for
500ma.

I figure I can drive a relay with the control from the existing relay and use the power/ground
to drive it and the relay output.
 
Hello alpha,

From one (former) embedded programmer to another, nice work!

I do have a feature request. I would like to be able to see the heating and cooling duty cycles of the current setpoint.

Two reasons for this request. The first is, I just built an insulated box I plan on putting out into my cold garage (it's winter here in Wisconsin), along with a heater and a carboy of lager. I am hoping to utilize the cold weather as my refrigeration. It would be nice to know how often the heater has to run in order to maintain the setpoint. If it has to run often, or for long periods, I might decide to insulate the box further.

The second reason is, if I some day acquire a refrigerator, it'd be nice to know that, during a setpoint, I'm not cycling between powering heating and cooling, and running up my electric bill.

Again, thank you for all the nice work.
 
adam01 said:
Hey Alpha; Have you measured the current used by the Stc1000 ? I was hoping to
drive a 10-20ma fan/relay from the internal power supply. I see the converter is rated for
500ma.

I figure I can drive a relay with the control from the existing relay and use the power/ground
to drive it and the relay output.
Click to expand...


I am powering 7' of LED strip and a computer fan stir plate with mine. I have not had a problem yet. I have noticed that when the stir plate is running and I turn on the LEDs then the stir plate slows down a bit.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/magic-chef-mcbc580dbt-wine-beverage-fridge-fermenter-conversion-511086/#post6648189
 
smithabusa said:
I put together a video that shows the profile editor, inserting into a sketch, and flashing. I meant for it to be short but ended up 18mins long, oops

http://youtu.be/JQ-T24zxWb0
Click to expand...

I really hate emoticons..., so \m/
Is it ok if I add it to the other vids on the front page of the project?

MikeInMKE said:
Hello alpha,

From one (former) embedded programmer to another, nice work!

I do have a feature request. I would like to be able to see the heating and cooling duty cycles of the current setpoint.

Two reasons for this request. The first is, I just built an insulated box I plan on putting out into my cold garage (it's winter here in Wisconsin), along with a heater and a carboy of lager. I am hoping to utilize the cold weather as my refrigeration. It would be nice to know how often the heater has to run in order to maintain the setpoint. If it has to run often, or for long periods, I might decide to insulate the box further.

The second reason is, if I some day acquire a refrigerator, it'd be nice to know that, during a setpoint, I'm not cycling between powering heating and cooling, and running up my electric bill.

Again, thank you for all the nice work.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I'm sorry, but that is not going to happen. First off, it is beyond the scope, secondly it would be hard to implement, thirdly it would probably not fit within code space left.
Though, the source code is open, so you are free to implement it yourself if you wanna take a stab at it, you'd probably need to shave other functionality out though.

My suggestion would be to get a cheap energy meter (or what ever they might be called in the US). Then you should be able to get a decent idea of how often the heater is running.

This is probably not news to you, but for completeness, make sure the box is leak free. More insulation is better that little, but mostly make sure there are no places air could seep through.
Go for a low wattage heater, no more than is needed (40W goes a long way). Preferably something with a large surface area and won't get hot to the touch. Use a correctly sized fuse.

As for ping-pong'ing between heating and cooling, a small wattage heater will help with this, also use sufficient hysteresis and possibly use the second probe. You will need to tweak the settings for your setup.
 

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