STC 1000 with termo probe with 3 wires
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You can't. A three wire temp probe is most likely a PT-100 resistance thermometer with a nominal resistance of 100 ohms (especially if two of the wires are the same color and the third is a different color.) A PT-100 has a positive temperature coefficient, which means the resistance increases with increasing temperature. The STC-1000 requires a sensor probe with an nominal resistance of 10,000 ohms and a negative temperature coefficient (resistance goes down as temperature increases.) The two types of probes are not interchangeable. There are some temperature controllers (most PID's among them) that can work with several different kinds of temperature sensors, and they have the internal programming to deal with the different temperature responses from the different sensors, but the STC-1000 does not have this capability.
If you have an ohm meter, check the resistance between the odd colored wire and one of the two same colored wires. If the resistance is close to 100 ohms, then you have a PT-100 sensor. The resistance between the two same colored wires should be very close to 0.
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Hi there,
Thanks!
The probe has 2 red and 1 blue!
What kind of temperature controller assume the 3 wires? I will have to buy one :s
Mypin and Auber PID's can both use this type of probe. However, getting the correct probe for an STC-1000 will be a lot cheaper.
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Mypin and Auber PID's can both use this type of probe. However, getting the correct probe for an STC-1000 will be a lot cheaper.
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Thank you!
One more thing, i found that the REX-C100 is very cheap at ebay, in instructions it speaks about a current transformer, why i need that?
Thank you again!
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
They only do celcius.... and you can buy them already setup to control an ssr...(I Know since I bought one that way shipped with an ssr)
What are you planning to do with it because an stc1000 has a 10 amp mechnical relay just like the cheap rexc100, no mods needed to swap one for the other. But they both only do celcius readout unless you buy an stc clone or convert an a400 version of the stc with stc1000+ firmware...
If your looking to control a heating element then a real ssr pid is the correct choice (I suggest the mypin td4 since it has manual pwm mode for consistent boils)
stc1000 stle thermostats are best suited to controlling fridges and heating strips for fermenters. they cannot switch on and off fast enough without damaging the internal relay and the mods to make them work otherwise are not worth any saving over buying a rex or mypin with better pid temp control.
Did you buy the stc1000 used?? they come with temp probes when purchased new (not pt100 style either)... Replacements are only a couple dollars on ebay though.
Thank you again for your help!
Yes i want to control the heating element! the stc1000 is not the best choice? :/ should a buy a new one?
Thank you again!
ps - i work with celcius
Are you building an electrically heated brew system? If so, then you should read the "Electrical Primer for Brewers". Good information in there about basic electrical safety and wire sizes required for different load currents. For brewing control you want PID control rather than simple on off control (which is what you get with an STC-1000.) You can also learn a lot from The Electric Brewery site.
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Are you building an electrically heated brew system? If so, then you should read the "Electrical Primer for Brewers". Good information in there about basic electrical safety and wire sizes required for different load currents. For brewing control you want PID control rather than simple on off control (which is what you get with an STC-1000.) You can also learn a lot from The Electric Brewery site.
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Thank you again and again!
I am not building a full electrical, it's just for rims and try to do the rests on a cooler mash tun... I will use gas to heat until first rest and than control with an heat element of 3000 watt That i got. For boiling i got a keg. I will read that posts! Thank you
Edit: just to keep temp or raise from 40 Celsius to 55 Celsius i need all of that?
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Thank you again and again!
I am not building a full electrical, it's just for rims and try to do the rests on a cooler mash tun... I will use gas to heat until first rest and than control with an heat element of 3000 watt That i got. For boiling i got a keg. I will read that posts! Thank you
Edit: just to keep temp or raise from 40 Celsius to 55 Celsius i need all of that?
ok I know your likely in a different country but a rex c100 like this that is sold WITH an ssr will work for you with no modifications. Also the pt100 probe you have will work and is better than a k type probe as included below.
the reason a pid will work better than an stc is an stc is only good for 10amps and will wear out very fast when switching often like nneded for a rims.
Also the pid will keep the temperature much more consistently.
All you NEED is the stuff in the link above along with a cheap heatsink and a power cord and case or enclosure... some of the builds are extravagant and much more automated to make things easier (and they do make things easier when brewing)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220V-Digita...579?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20faa894ab
Thank you again!
I will order it Right away! The heatsink is just to take Out the hot inside of the enclosure right?
I will try to find some wiring examples to build This...
I am building a brewpi for fermenting too... I want to keep it a little simple to start! I never brew before lol. Probably i should start with extract but i wanted to try build a nice rig to start all grain!
You have examples of wiring?
Thank you again, your help is being amazing! I will ship to you some samples of my beer
)
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Thank you again!
I will order it Right away! The heatsink is just to take Out the hot inside of the enclosure right?
I will try to find some wiring examples to build This...
I am building a brewpi for fermenting too... I want to keep it a little simple to start! I never brew before lol. Probably i should start with extract but i wanted to try build a nice rig to start all grain!
You have examples of wiring?
Thank you again, your help is being amazing! I will ship to you some samples of my beer
The heatsink is to mount the SSR (solid state relay switch) to... otherwise it would overheat.
I'm sorry I didnt use diagrams but if you search "pj's diagrams" you will find many good ones... good luck!
Thank you again! i will start to order the parts to finish!
For the enclosure i will use a computer box, i think it's ok with it!
Thank you again!
Btw, i read your thread, your rig is amazing! gratz!
Edit1 - for the heat sink, i have many computer CPU coolers, i think it will be fine to use no?
Thank you!
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Yes a cpu cooler works great. and people have used pc enclosures before.
I use a plastic electrical enclosure since its easier to cut holes in but whatever works for you.
And thanks! I think my rig came out pretty good considering the super low budget I had to accomplish it. some people spend more on three blichmann kettles alone it seems than my whole setup.
about the kettles, near me i got many people with old beer kegs and i manage to get 2 for free; i am modifying them atm. I was thinking of use to ferment too, do you think it's possible?
Edit: Why i need a contactor for? cant i plug the heat element directly to the temperature PID ?
Thank you again!
No, PID's have low voltage digital outputs for controlling SSR's (solid state relays), or low amp rating relay outputs for switching loads smaller than heating elements. The most common electric brew systems use a PID which controls an SSR. The SSR does the actual switching of the voltage and current to the heating element.
Contactors are usually used for switching currents higher than about 20A. At 20A and below ordinary switches are readily available that can handle the load. There are some switches that can handle 30A loads (Leviton makes some of these.) Contactors are often used for turning main power off and on inside brewery control panels, as the currents being switched are often in the 30 - 50A range. Contactors are just high current and voltage relays, that can be controlled with much lower currents (and often lower voltages) than the contactors are switching.
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Thank you!No, PID's have low voltage digital outputs for controlling SSR's (solid state relays), or low amp rating relay outputs for switching loads smaller than heating elements. The most common electric brew systems use a PID which controls an SSR. The SSR does the actual switching of the voltage and current to the heating element.
Contactors are usually used for switching currents higher than about 20A. At 20A and below ordinary switches are readily available that can handle the load. There are some switches that can handle 30A loads (Leviton makes some of these.) Contactors are often used for turning main power off and on inside brewery control panels, as the currents being switched are often in the 30 - 50A range. Contactors are just high current and voltage relays, that can be controlled with much lower currents (and often lower voltages) than the contactors are switching.
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So for me circuit of only 1 element of 3k watt i dont need contactor right?
No, you probably don't need a contactor. You could use a switch like this to turn your main power on/off.
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