STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

[jbb3]

yep

 

[fermentednonsense]

It uses a 10k ohm NTC (negative temperature coefficient) sensor

Something like this should work http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8m-NTC10K...PageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Cheers!

Guess I was wrong lol its been known to happen

 

[augiedoggy]

it has two output relays, and you can conect cooling and heating at the same time.
It's not a rebranded mh1210 or Willhi 7016.
If you still have double, you can contact the seller there and ask for a sample free.

I have one of these as well as a single stage one (which operates the same and has almost the same menu structure.... they both work great... I also have an actual stc1000 and I don't care for the added steps to adjust the temps and the whole celcius thing... some day I would like to flash it to an stc 1000+...the temp probes are interchangeable as others have stated..

 

[coreythomas5]

Just bought this STC 1000 off of Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's a ferinheit model dual relay. Tried it out and works perfect. Heating and cooling.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1422078709.686229.jpg

 

[inkbird]

Just bought this STC 1000 off of Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's a ferinheit model dual relay. Tried it out and works perfect. Heating and cooling.
View attachment 251110

You did a great job.
The whole kit looks really perfect. Thanks.

 

[tslugmo]

Here's my STC build

I'd like for the bottom outlet to just have constant power. Would somebody please help me with how to wire the unit to accomplish that?

Thanks!

 

[BeerGrylls]

This is my post from earlier in the thread, this will accomplish what you want:

this is the schematic I used, similar to the one gatorbite87 uploaded in the first post, but also includes a fuse (use a 10-amp slow blow) and the second 'constant on' outlet. Just be sure to use 16AWG or 12AWG wire.

View attachment 1425467616957.jpg

 

[tslugmo]

Awesome thanks. I searched but didn't see this

 

[mgr_stl]

For my last batch, when it came around to bottling I realized I didn't have any space in my normal "carbing closet" due to my batch of aplfewein currently residing there. Since I didn't need to use my fermentation chamber in the next few weeks, I used it as a carbonation chamber and got great results. The only other option was the basement which is low to mid 60s. I have an amphibian heating pad as my heat source, and set it at 73 degrees. Within a week and a half my session IPA was beautifully carbed.

 

[stever1000]

I got sent the wrong controller. I now have a 12V STC-1000 china clone.
Is there any easy way to use the 12V controller?

 

[IslandLizard]

I got sent the wrong controller. I now have a 12V STC-1000 china clone.
Is there any easy way to use the 12V controller?

Many uses:

• Control fermentation temps in your car or boat.
• Monitor and control temps inside your computer.
• Temp readouts and control on low voltage hobby and home projects.

More seriously, it can be run/operated from a 120V to 12V/1A adapter (wall wart). The relays can then actuate 120V to 240V circuitry, such as a fridge or freezer.

 

[augiedoggy]

I got sent the wrong controller. I now have a 12V STC-1000 china clone.
Is there any easy way to use the 12V controller?

yes, you just need to add a 12v power supply to power the stc1000... any 12v wall wort charger will work since it has a very low power draw...
It will still work to switch AC components on and off just fine.

 

[stever1000]

ok I will go to wal-mart and look for a voltage converter
thanks!

 

[chapusin]

Ok guys, so I have the same problem but inverted. I have a 120V stc-1000 and need to control a 9V or 12V solenoid valve. Would the 120v version burn the solenoid electronics?

Also, on the one above me, I don't understand how the 12v version can switch 120v AC components such as a fridge if you're only powering it with 12V.

Edit: saw a diagram and now I understand everything. There's 2 power inputs, one for powering the stc and the other one for the device you want.

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok guys, so I have the same problem but inverted. I have a 120V stc-1000 and need to control a 9V or 12V solenoid valve. Would the 120v version burn the solenoid electronics?

Also, on the one above me, I don't understand how the 12v version can switch 120v AC components such as a fridge if you're only powering it with 12V.

Edit: saw a diagram and now I understand everything. There's 2 power inputs, one for powering the stc and the other one for the device you want.

Not quite, the relays don't power anything. They close/open 2 independent circuits. You could put any load on those, within the relays' specs of course, typically 120/240V, up to 10A. Hence they can also switch your low voltage solenoids (9-12V) at a maximum of the same 10A. Just make sure to wire it correctly.

A 120V STC, as is, needs 120V to operate, unless you bypass the transformer/rectifier, and feed it directly with low voltage DC. Not sure what the operating voltage is, though.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Ok guys, so I have the same problem but inverted. I have a 120V stc-1000 and need to control a 9V or 12V solenoid valve. Would the 120v version burn the solenoid electronics?

Also, on the one above me, I don't understand how the 12v version can switch 120v AC components such as a fridge if you're only powering it with 12V.

Edit: saw a diagram and now I understand everything. There's 2 power inputs, one for powering the stc and the other one for the device you want.

What you're looking for is in this thread
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=487104

 

[JustLooking]

Posted this question in the BrewsBySmith thread, but thought it might get answered here better.

He sells his unit with an option for an LED indicating if heat or cold is being applied. Doesn't the STC-1000 already indicate this with its own built-in LED's?

 

[day_trippr]

Yes, the STC-1000 display has Heat and Cool LEDs...

Cheers!

 

[fuzzy2133]

Can't the LED'S be wired so if something like a heat belt fails it will not light? I think the STC display will show what it is trying to do even if the circuit has failed.

 

[day_trippr]

Sure, you could add LEDs to monitor the relay coils, or even the switched AC, given enough components.
You could even determine if there was an actual load on each switched AC leg and use that status to light a corresponding LED...

Cheers!

 

[SippinSudz]

**
Following.

Would like to purchase this for cheap off eBay/Amazon

I have a deep freeze I would like to convert to a 17° lager fermenter. I'm sure if I look through the thread I can see all the Q's and A's I'll need to convert it.

 

[doug293cz]

**
Following.

Would like to purchase this for cheap off eBay/Amazon

I have a deep freeze I would like to convert to a 17° lager fermenter. I'm sure if I look through the thread I can see all the Q's and A's I'll need to convert it.

Just wire the STC-1000 in some kind of box with outlets, and then plug the freezer cord into the cooling outlet.

Brew on

 

[SippinSudz]

I see the "box" someone has built back a few pages. I'm gonna have to figure out wtf all the mumbo jumbo electrical talk means

 

[edroberts]

Has anyone had an issue with their controllers suddenly losing the ability to switch power? I suddenly had both heating and cooling get stuck ON. Connections still look fine and it's not like I've had the switch in the chamber with too much moisture.

With a deep freezer, it quickly overwhelmed my heater bringing my chamber down well below freezing. Frozen beer anyone?