Starting a cabinet-erator Project

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cessick7

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Messages
50
Reaction score
4
Location
Elgin
I currently have a traditional 2 tap kegerator that I switch between my patio (warm weather) and my dining room (winter). My SWMBO has decided that she does not like having the kegerator in the dining room. We found this cabinet on Craigslist for cheap so I am starting to plan out and build a cabinet kegerator. I just found a mini-fridge on craigslist for $40.00 so I have the major parts. My next step is to start measuring and decide how I want to insulate. I will than start looking at tower options. This should be fun. I will update as I go along. Any hints or advice from anybody who has done something similar would be welcome.

cabinet 1.jpg


cabinet 2.jpg


fridge 1.jpg


fridge 2.jpg


fridge 3.jpg
 
Been looking at doing something similar lately using an old Sears-Roebuck Silvertone record player cabinet. Definitely excited to see how yours turns out.
 
Going to be doing some basic measurements today and start planning out the inside. I will also start shopping for some insulation. I'm thinking of going with 1-1/2" FOAMULAR 150 Rigid Foam Insulation. If anyone else has any ideas on a better way to insulate, please let me know. I will also be shopping for the tower and faucet this week. I was thinking of looking for a vintage tap tower, wither two or three faucets. If anyone also has any ideas or places to look for these, that would be great.
 
I am wanting to do something similar. How much bigger is the cabinet? My concern was the mini fridge being too small to cool it effectively.
 
I did something similar last summer. The article (Moving Beyond Functionality) is published here on HBT with some really helpful comments from other members.

My suggestion is to put a lot of thought into how to make the insulated door air-tight. I'm using weather stripping, but it's still not up to par.

Good luck!

*Edit: Added the hyperlink
 
I did something similar, except I used the base cabinet for a gas grill. I used 2" foam board and then lined it with Masonite for protection. I caulked the bejeesus out of all of the joints, and then for added protection, put an epoxy coating on the bottom and up about 4" on the sides. Chances are you will get some condensation and then some puddling - mine is a top loader
 
Good luck! I'll be following this since I'm debating a mini fridge converted under a bar or building a chamber like this. The bar is just framed right now so I have options.
 
I did something similar, except I used the base cabinet for a gas grill. I used 2" foam board and then lined it with Masonite for protection. I caulked the bejeesus out of all of the joints, and then for added protection, put an epoxy coating on the bottom and up about 4" on the sides. Chances are you will get some condensation and then some puddling - mine is a top loader
Thanks for the tips. I will look at both 1.5 and 2.0 inch insulation and I already planned to caulk heavily. Good idea on the masonite. I was thinking shower wall material might also work. I will have to see what I can find that works.
 
I am wanting to do something similar. How much bigger is the cabinet? My concern was the mini fridge being too small to cool it effectively.
I was alos a little concerned about the minifridge cooling, but I am not going to be using the whole inner cabinet. tight now I am planning on using about 2/3rd of the cabinet for the cooling / keg storage area. I think this will work as long as I insulate and keep it air tight.
 
Well I did some initial measurements and will start the build as soon as the weather lets up. It is snowing right now with a projected 6 inches. Anyway, if you look at the picture you can see the middle shelf that I will have to remove. It appears the shelf was tacked in and I will have to figure out an easy way to remove without damaging the walls. Once I do that. I will use part of the shelf for the wall separating the cooling area and the heat exchange coils and condenser. I will also start the refrigerator demo. I was glad that I was able to find a cheap refrigerator with the condenser and heat exchange coils on the back. I saw some builds where the coils were in the walls surrounded by insulation. This should be a little easier. I will take a few pictures once I start the demo and cabinet modifications.
 
I'm subscribed as well. I'm very interested in this idea, and having been scouring looking for similar projects.

The wife doesn't want some ugly mini fridge in our small apartment, so the plan is to find a used, solid-wood cabinet or other type of furniture that I can gut. Then I'll find a used mini-fridge on CL and I'll be ready to go.

Here is another similar project:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/modified-ferm-cabinet-accept-kegerator-231876/
 
Well I finally got some time to start modifying my cabinet. After measuring, I realized that I was going to need to lower the floor of the refrigerator side to fit my Ball Lock kegs. I removed the middle shelf and cut out the floor on the refrigerator side. I also purchased the insulation and the Plas-Tek. Today I hope to cut the wall that will separate the cabinet and a new floor. I will then start the mini-fridge demo and install the mini fridge parts to the new wall.

cabmod.jpg


insulation.jpg


plastek.jpg
 
I was busy this weekend. I took apart the mini-fridge and removed the cooling parts. I then assemble the wall that will divide the cabinet and installed the cooling parts. I also finished the two side walls and the top wall. I now have to finish the new floor and figure out how I am going to work the front including the door. So far, so good.

pic5.jpg


pic4.jpg


pic3.jpg


pic2.jpg


pic1.jpg
 
My suggestion is to put a lot of thought into how to make the insulated door air-tight. I'm using weather stripping, but it's still not up to par.
Different base materials, but I built an under-workbench chamber and definitely feel the door is the weak link. I was beating myself up wondering how I was going to get it fixed and insulated. It's maybe 6ft long, with the mini fridge on one side and the door about 2/3 of the way down. Someone suggested just getting a piece of insulation to wedge in between the door and the fridge when I don't need the whole length of the chamber, and it's been a super-cheap and -effective solution.

Not sure if that could apply to your gear, but remember different insulation needs depending on what you've got in there.
 
Awesome build! I read that some people install a small fan into their cooling chamber. Possibly to circulate air. is that necessary or you think you go out without if its a small enough chamber?
 
I am going to start without a fan and see how it does. My refrigerator chamber should be small enough to keep temperatures. Thanks for the tip. Measuring out my floor right now and will start on the door/front tomorrow. I leave for Cancun on Saturday so will be taking a week off. Hope to finish the cabinet and start shopping for the keg dispensing parts in April. If anyone knows where I can get a vintage, two-tap,, ceramic tower, let me know.
 
I was able to install the floor today and put the first coat of sealant on. Tomorrow I hope to start figuring out the front/door setup. Getting all that to seal and close might be a challenge.

floor2.jpg


floor1.jpg
 
Sweet! Subscribed. I just got access to an old Murphy bed that we put in the dining room and my wife said, "maybe we could turn this into a bar". I was like, SCORE! Now I gotta look at the details.

Have people thought about bending a sheet metal box with a lip on the front and using a magnetic gasket just like original door?
 
cank said:
Sweet! Subscribed. I just got access to an old Murphy bed that we put in the dining room and my wife said, "maybe we could turn this into a bar". I was like, SCORE! Now I gotta look at the details.

Have people thought about bending a sheet metal box with a lip on the front and using a magnetic gasket just like original door?

I have been thinking about using the original door like that and just expanding the storage space. Like a keezer in a way
 
Subbed. Like to see how it turns out in case I need to do something like this in the future.:mug:
 
Got back Thursday from Cancun and was able to work on the cabinet a little yesterday. I was able to finish up the electrical part and mounted the thermostat control and was able to attache the insulation to the door. Now I just have ot insulate and reinstall the middle peice between the doors and then start the kegerator parts.

20130330_170922.jpg


20130330_170935.jpg


20130330_171136.jpg
 
Back
Top