Stainless Wiki Conical under $100?

[bblack7489]

very interesting...I think I need to follow this

 

[lschiavo]

Nice project...subscribed.

 

[okgasdude]

Bump! I must also see how this turns out! Looking good so far!

 

[lschiavo]

I was thinking of the seal between the funnel and pot...My pressure cooker has a silicone gasket. It is not as large as what you are working with but I know there are larger pressure cookers out there. Maybe a replacement gasket for one of those would be the ticket for a good seal?

 

[JewBrew]

If the funnel is of thin steel it could warp when it is full and you could loose your seal.

 

[Reelale]

I've been following this one for a little while. Very interesting. I'm wondering if one were to weld it, what would be a good idea for an opening for cleaning. I saw someone mention a corny keg lid. I don't know if the bottom is thick enough for the lock-down dogs to engage. Anyway, watching with interest.

 

[chippy_23]

Ok I recieved the Mcmaster draw latches and mocked one up with the gasket covered lid between the pot and the funnel. I just have the latch scotch taped on. Looking at everything I am 99.9% confident that this solution will work.

Here is an explanation of how I will get the draw latch wire portions to grab the pot (hopefully it makes more sense with a pic in front of you).

I will cut grooves in the lip of the pot to allow the verticle portions to pass allowing the horizontal portion to be drawn up, allowing them to catch on the underside horizontal lip of the pot.

Then they will be drawn up this much (swag)

What you probably can't see is that the latches will be pulling back against the lip of the pot improving their likelihood of gaining purchase (cool word huh? I happen to be drinking Guiness) The tabs can be attached to the funnel via metal adhesive, bolts, or welding. If I use this option I will likely solder them on.

As for the thickness of the funnel. It is the same thickness as a cheap stainless mixing bowl

Why not knock it out tonight? I want to wait on the EBAY pot and 5/16 square silicon cord stock I have on order. I think that the lid ring is going to be the cleanest and quickest solution to this problem.

Lg

 

[chippy_23]

I've been following this one for a little while. Very interesting. I'm wondering if one were to weld it, what would be a good idea for an opening for cleaning. I saw someone mention a corny keg lid. I don't know if the bottom is thick enough for the lock-down dogs to engage. Anyway, watching with interest.

I think I would cut a big hole in the top and use a stainless mixing bowl and draw latches as the cover allowing for more head space and giving it the same classic look as a Blichmann and then put a corny lid on top of the mixing bowl. That is just my .02

 

[Reelale]

I think I would cut a big hole in the top and use a stainless mixing bowl and draw latches as the cover allowing for more head space and giving it the same classic look as a Blichmann and then put a corny lid on top of the mixing bowl. That is just my .02

You wouldn't need the corny lid with a mixing bowl as the lid. You could also make a gasket out of sheet silicone. Hmmmm......

 

[lschiavo]

You wouldn't need the corny lid with a mixing bowl as the lid. You could also make a gasket out of sheet silicone. Hmmmm......

sheet silicone...yeah. I would want a very reliable seal here. If you cut or lap tubing I dont think you will get it.

 

[klyph]

I've been following this one for a little while. Very interesting. I'm wondering if one were to weld it, what would be a good idea for an opening for cleaning. I saw someone mention a corny keg lid. I don't know if the bottom is thick enough for the lock-down dogs to engage. Anyway, watching with interest.

Sure it will, in fact you'd probably have to trim the legs on the latch down a bit to get it to close.

 

[Reelale]

Sure it will, in fact you'd probably have to trim the legs on the latch down a bit to get it to close.

Yeah, I forgot about the raised lip on the keg that the lid sits in. Wonder if that would be a big enough opening to clean all the way into the conical?

 

[klyph]

Honestly, the fact that you can unclamp the cone from the pot for cleaning, you only need a hole big enough for filling and an airlock.

 

[BrewSpook]

And dry hopping....

 

[Reelale]

Honestly, the fact that you can unclamp the cone from the pot for cleaning, you only need a hole big enough for filling and an airlock.

I was thinking if it was welded. I think a combination racking arm/fill port drilled into the side would work well for filling. And just any old hole and fitting on the top for an air lock.

 

[klyph]

And yeast pitching, aerating, uh what else...

 

[Reelale]

And yeast pitching, aerating, uh what else...

Oh yeah....forgot about that too. If it's welded up, you would need to remove the top somehow.

 

[chippy_23]

Yeah, I forgot about the raised lip on the keg that the lid sits in. Wonder if that would be a big enough opening to clean all the way into the conical?

Well I dont think that cleaning would be a problem with a corny lid. I would leave one of them removable in order to get a good look inside and make any repairs/inspections necessary but that is just me. Here is a pic with a mixing bowl (wrong size) and a tape measure for scale.

 

[Reelale]

That looks pretty nice. But after adding all of the individual pieces and parts, and you'll need a stand, it starts adding up to something close to this if you go with stainless legs. I still think it's a great idea.

 

[klyph]

The toledo metal spinning 6.4 gallon hopper and lid is $200. But you still don't have the stand, valves, fittings, etc.

It's really hard to beat the cheap commercial conical options.

 

[chippy_23]

They also have a 6.4 gallon one for 158. I this is probably the best option when you are looking for the best finished product. Also the Toledo conical is 14: in diameter which is closer to some of the larger brew pots so it could maybe be modified to hold a 10 gallon batch.

As for the legs I think I am going to cut two triangle (ish) pieces of plywood and inset one point of the triangle into the handles and then tie the bases together which should make a fairly stable base. If the ring works you can just put the thing into a bucket upside down and cut an access hole in the side of the bucket,

Lg

 

[klyph]

The 6.4 gal is the one I was talking about. Add the price of their lid and you're at $200.

 

[Dwain]

I'm still interested. You're in it far enough now that you will finish it. Even if the costs were the same, I would do the DIY. Of course, I've got 2 Scout II's, a CJ7, and a Porshe in pieces (all given to me in the various states of being in pieces) at my shop, so I'm probably not a good yardstick! Also, please take plenty of pictures. Luck - Dwain

 

[beerandbbq]

Bump

 

[EarthBound]

Bump

Why? The last post was less than two hours before you bumped it.

Maybe I misunderstand the point of bumping...

 

[chippy_23]

I'm still interested. You're in it far enough now that you will finish it. Even if the costs were the same, I would do the DIY. Of course, I've got 2 Scout II's, a CJ7, and a Porshe in pieces (all given to me in the various states of being in pieces) at my shop, so I'm probably not a good yardstick! Also, please take plenty of pictures. Luck - Dwain

Don't worry my friend I will finish it. I have a 66 Mustang that got a COMPLETE tear down and rebuild to trans-am specs (the bad news is that it took me 7 years). As for the costs this one will come in pretty close to $100 if you exclude shipping. I was just saying that the Toledo conical will be a better all around product in the end but I think this one will be more feasible, besides I dont know many guys who can spend $200 without having to explain it to their wife.

Hey BBQ thanks for bumping I was in the middle of something when I got the alert and now I will return to the conical.

I just got the cord stock (O ring) from McMaster so I will try to get the bucket to hold water.

Lg

 

[chippy_23]

The 5/16th cord stock did not work. I am certain that it would work if I had a bolt tightening bucket ring, but the locking ring wouldnt even close on the funnel with the O ring in it. 5/16th is way too big.


Then I saw some pipe tape that I had laying on the counter from the valve project (why didnt you guys think of this!!!!) I wrapped the bucket and funnel separately. After attaching the ring I put it upside down in my Brewpot and it leaked I pulled the ring off and wrapped the bucket and funnel together and it worked no leaks with about 3 gallons of water in the thing.

BTW I know my kitchen looks like something out of a Rob Zombie movie but we are doing a full restoration on an 1886 Victorian home and the kitchen isn't slated until February.

 

[ScubaSteve]

I love threads like this.....it's all about seeing if it can be done! Why not take that funnel you have and put it in the bottom of a sanke? You could probably silver solder it and get a pretty sanitary seal. OR, just cut the bottom out of a slightly larger brewpot and drop it down in there. Then you could keep and use the pot's lid with a seal.....

 

[klyph]

What kind of clamp are you using? Pics?

 

[chippy_23]

Scuba,

Thats why I posted the purchase link for the funnel. I am hoping that a bunch of guys buy them and start experimenting. I personally wanted to build one out of a Sankey but I dont have one so I started working on the retired brew pot.

You know I think a corny with the 8.75(ish) McMaster funnel would give you a stainless conical for under $40. I dont have a corny either or I would be knocking that out.

Since I can see the light at the end of this tunnel I am going to start on a two roller grain mill with bearing, gap adjustment and drill power with rolling pin rollers and try to keep it under $50.

Cheers,

Lg