spitting foam

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Ryan Vellia

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Information: Single tap kegerator, hose length is roughly 4-5 ft., psi has been changed from 2-12, Bird Song session IPA on tap. Not sure on temperature at the moment.

I've read through some similar post here and I keep hearing about balancing the system. I have a 10 foot hose being delivered today and I've tried various different pressures but still get the same problem.

I'm not sure of the temperature at the moment however, this wasn't a problem on previous IPA's I've had on tap. In fact, all other kegs have poured great until this one.

I have attached a video of the problem. Basically the tap just spits foam. It doesn't matter what PSI I set it at, the same problem happens. Any ideas?????

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17ywzNv4ZDp8lFG4OIYUyU_SAxe6JJAoE/view?usp=sharing
 
I tried to add this to the previous post but was told it was spam...

Edit: The keg isn't kicked either, it's still too heavy. And this problem has been persisting long enough where if it was kicked it would have stopped doing this.
 
Did you dry hop this IPA? I've had a piece of dry hop get stuck in pop-it/pickup tube. That piece of hops matter caused enough turbulence to knock the CO2 out of solution. Causing my tap to spit and sputter. I had the hardest of time trying to figure it out. Moved a different beer to that tap and it poured perfect pints. I’d move that keg to a different tap and is spit and sputtered. Once I knew I had a bad keg, I did a closed loop transfer the beer to a new keg. Took all the post off and found a large piece of hops in the pop-it.
 
I did not brew it myself it's brewed by a fairly large craft brew in Charlotte, NC so I can't answer that for you.
 
I'm not sure I understand your question probably because I don't know much about brewing. But from what I think you're asking, it's a sixtel keg.

Edit: Some friends and a local craft beer shop owner seems to think it's just about kicked. Anyone else think that may be the case? I feel like this has gone on too long to be kicked but I wouldn't be shocked if I was wrong.
 
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So it's a sankey keg? Where the gas and beer go through the same tap? As opposed to a corny keg where the gas a beer lines are separate.

You said it's too heavy to be kicked already so I take it the 10ft hose didn't help?
 
That (video) shouldn't happen with a corny keg unless it is empty. Subscribed as I am curious about the outcome of this.
I think your coupler o-rings or the keg itself may be defective. You are getting your gas mixed with your liquid, like if the plunger is only pushed half way down. Good luck.
 
Ok thanks for all the input. I believe it's a sankey, the coupler looks like the one in the image below:

https://tinyurl.com/yckzdtsj

#SEndorf - my lines are good, liquid line to the tap is on top, and the gas line comes in on the side. Hard to mess up with the gas line being red and the beer line being clear.
 
A true mystery.
I'm curious where the problem is.
Hose length issues will not typically cause as blatant of a problem indicated in your video.
 
Others who have seen the video tend to agree with you as well...

I installed a keg tower cooler to help with the ~11" beer line that runs up to the tap. The keg sits in my garage which, although insulated, is unconditioned and right now NC is blazing hot. I am about to change the lines to see what happens. Will keep you updated...
 
Are you sure the coupler is fully engaged? Did you draw the handle out and lock it in place? Clearly you are pulling air or CO2 from somewhere. Can you draw from the tap with the door open on your kegerator? Work the problem from the tap back to the keg or from the keg to the tap. You may be able to see where the issue is.
 
Either that's a dead keg, or somehow CO2 is being injected into the beer line at the coupler end.
I asked what type of keg because if that was a corny keg THAT WASN'T EMPTY there's a small O-ring under the Out dip tube flange that if missing or damaged will produce exactly the quality pour shown in the video.

I have zero working familiarity with Sanke kegs but there has to be a critical O-ring in the coupler that keeps the gas and beer separated...

Cheers!
 
That's actually a good thought. Do you have an additional coupler that you could try? That's got to be the problem.
 
Others who have seen the video tend to agree with you as well... I installed a keg tower cooler to help with the ~11" beer line that runs up to the tap. The keg sits in my garage which, although insulated, is unconditioned and right now NC is blazing hot. I am about to change the lines to see what happens. I will also borrow a buddies coupler to see if that's the culprit as well.
 
So had a buddy come over who works part time at a brewery and he thinks the keg is kicked... o_O shows how much I know I guess. I have a new keg coming hopefully beginning of next week, when that is setup (with the new lines and tower cooler) I'll update everyone on the issues.

Thanks for all your support.
 
Haven't watched videos or clicked links, BUT....

The O-ring that keeps the inner coupler spear sealed from outer wall (basically walls off gas and liquid sections) looks a LOT like the standard hex nut O-ring. Identical if you don't observe side by side or know to look for it. The hex nut O-ring is slightly smaller but can be forced onto the coupler. If that got put on the coupler spear instead that could be your problem causing gas and liquid to mix. Had lines act up when that's happened.
 
So I swapped out the keg... changed the lines from 5ft standard to 10ft, set my psi to about 10, installed a tower cooler, and all is well with the world. The beer is pouring perfectly now.

I'm thinking the main issue was the keg though because when I returned it I turned it upside etc. to see how much beer was left and it made this sliding sound, followed by a thump which leads me to believe it was partially frozen somehow.

However, doesn't hurt to have better lines and a tower cooler now though :)
 
Frozen huh?
Didn't even cross my mind, but would explain your problems.
Try and set your kegerator to 38-42F; ice cold is only good for Coors Light.
 

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