Spike's upcoming eBIAB system

[IanMC]

Not to thread jack but do either of you have links to more details on your system? I’ve been thinking about going electric and wondering if I could manage with an induction hot plate or go the full electric kettle route.

I don't have a link, but I can describe my system for you, and provide a picture.

Firstly, I mostly do 3 gallon batches. I have a 10 gal custom Spike kettle with TC ports for the drain, thermowell, whirlpool, and a recirculation return. I use a Blichmann Riptide pump. I have a cheapy Duxtop 1800w ($50), which has been adequate for my needs, if a little slow to ramp up. I use a Wilserbrewer bag with a cutout for the upper TC port. Even though the cooktop is a little weak, once I've mashed in and am recirculating, I just keep it set to the lowest power setting to provide some extra heat, and the temperature stays fairly constant.

The Duxtop has a cheap plastic chassis, and I don't trust it to hold the weight of the kettle + contents, so I built a support for the kettle out of 2x4s and 4x4s, with a lab jack to raise the cooktop up to the kettle. I just raise it until it's firmly pressed against the kettle, but not holding any actual weight. One day I'll get a nice induction plate - an Adcraft or Avantco - and will ditch the support system then, but in the meantime it works well and is kind of cool I guess.

The boil is not very energetic, but it moves the wort around and gets hot enough. I don't have an easy way to hook up a 240v unit at the moment, but for now, this unit is getting me by. Still, if you have 240v convenient, definitely go with a better, all stainless option like the Adcraft C208V or Avantco IC3500.

Let me know if you have any questions about the specifics. Like with any brew system, there are a lot of extra components and calibration that isn't immediately obvious.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Not to thread jack but do either of you have links to more details on your system? I’ve been thinking about going electric and wondering if I could manage with an induction hot plate or go the full electric kettle route.

OK....so You've seen the picture of mine above. It's an Adcraft 208v manual induction burner but I'm running it at 240v. I was concerned about this and literally debated for several years, but I've read a number of threads about others doing this with no issues. I've done two manual brews (just the induction burner replacing my propane, mash in a cooler) with great success. I really like the burner. Ramp times are fast and I get a nice boil of 7g of wort at about 75% power.

This last weekend I tried to add an Auber cube to the system. Others have had luck controlling the Adcraft with a controller, so I wasn't expecting issues, but my water only test run on Saturday was a failure. Ramp to initial strike temp was fine, but as soon as it got to hold mode, the Adcraft started alarming and had an error code on the display. The manual said that it was an overvoltage alarm, but that makes no sense given that I've run it at full output without the cube with zero issues. I think the Auber was cycling power and wigging it out.

I have a thread in the electric brewing forum asking for advice. If you're thinking about running a controller with an induction burner, you have to go manual induction,which pretty much means Adcraft. You might want to follow that thread to see what transpires.

I'll try to post back here if/when I get it working. Worst case, I switch to a ripple element, but I'm pretty committed to getting the induction working if at all possible.

 

[applescrap]

Meh. At 460 the anvil foundry seems like a good option.

 

[matt_m]

Both have their place (and are sitting side by side in my brewery.) An average 1.050 OG beer in the Foundry, you are pretty maxed out on capacity on a 5 gallon batch doing a full volume mash. Also with a lot of hops, if you don't use a hop spider you are going to get a lot of hop matter in the fermenter because of the narrow cylinder. My other system is almost exactly what they are going to sell with a 15 gallon kettle except I'm using a bag. I like what I see so far on the basket though and might consider buying one. After whirlpool even a highly hopped NEIPA I get very little trub in 5.5 gallons transferred to the fermenter. The Foundry is way easier to clean up though so if I want a quicker brew day, I tend to use that.

 

[IanMC]

OK....so You've seen the picture of mine above. It's an Adcraft 208v manual induction burner but I'm running it at 240v. I was concerned about this and literally debated for several years, but I've read a number of threads about others doing this with no issues. I've done two manual brews (just the induction burner replacing my propane, mash in a cooler) with great success. I really like the burner. Ramp times are fast and I get a nice boil of 7g of wort at about 75% power.

This last weekend I tried to add an Auber cube to the system. Others have had luck controlling the Adcraft with a controller, so I wasn't expecting issues, but my water only test run on Saturday was a failure. Ramp to initial strike temp was fine, but as soon as it got to hold mode, the Adcraft started alarming and had an error code on the display. The manual said that it was an overvoltage alarm, but that makes no sense given that I've run it at full output without the cube with zero issues. I think the Auber was cycling power and wigging it out.

I have a thread in the electric brewing forum asking for advice. If you're thinking about running a controller with an induction burner, you have to go manual induction,which pretty much means Adcraft. You might want to follow that thread to see what transpires.

I'll try to post back here if/when I get it working. Worst case, I switch to a ripple element, but I'm pretty committed to getting the induction working if at all possible.

I've gone through a similar journey as you. I've been considering getting the C208V for years, as it seems like the best option for a fully controllable induction mashing system, but am always afraid to use it on 240v. I keep checking here every few months to see what the verdict is from those braver than me, and have indeed seen several people who've used it successfully. Still... it worries me. I actually contacted Adcraft and asked if it could be used on 240v, hoping that there would be some input tolerance that would make it okay, but was informed that it could be 208 only. Now... that's the company's official "safe" stance on things, so I understand there is likely a lot of gray area around the truth from an actual engineering perspective.

Another option I've considered is to modify a 240v induction plate in some way to allow for external control. The most hardcore way would be to bypass the control circuit entirely and strike the induction coil directly... but that seems like way too much work and quite dangerous/likely to fail. The second, safer option would be to augment/modify the control panel to simulate keypresses externally. Even "on/off" should be sufficient, as most induction plates will start up at 50% power when turned on. That's fine if all you need to do is inject some heat for a minute or so. Finally, what might actually be the best option IMO, because it doesn't involve modifying the device at all, but is a little clumsier, would be to build something which mechanically controls the control panel from a computer source. Something like a servo or stepper motor. With the Adcraft, it actually wouldn't be too difficult to attach a motor to the shaft of the power knob on the front, and then just calibrate its position across the power spectrum. Another benefit of these control-panel-intercept solutions is that, since the main cooktop circuit is never completely cut (as in a traditional on/off control circuit), the fan keeps running. I've noticed that on most cooktops, the fan keeps running for some time after the coil is de-energized, which helps to cool the unit down.

On another note, with your Auber, was it configured to power the Adcraft as a simple on/off switch, or is it trying to modulate the voltage/power output as you would with an actual PID controller hooked up to an immersion element? I ask because resistive heating elements are modulated by varying the power applied to them as a function of their voltage/current, but an induction plate requires full power all the time which is then further modulated by the internal circuitry. If your Cube was setup for an immersion element, it would probably cause the kind of error you described, with the Adcraft freaking out over the input power being unstable.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I've gone through a similar journey as you. I've been considering getting the C208V for years, as it seems like the best option for a fully controllable induction mashing system, but am always afraid to use it on 240v. I keep checking here every few months to see what the verdict is from those braver than me, and have indeed seen several people who've used it successfully. Still... it worries me. I actually contacted Adcraft and asked if it could be used on 240v, hoping that there would be some input tolerance that would make it okay, but was informed that it could be 208 only. Now... that's the company's official "safe" stance on things, so I understand there is likely a lot of gray area around the truth from an actual engineering perspective.

Another option I've considered is to modify a 240v induction plate in some way to allow for external control. The most hardcore way would be to bypass the control circuit entirely and strike the induction coil directly... but that seems like way too much work and quite dangerous/likely to fail. The second, safer option would be to augment/modify the control panel to simulate keypresses externally. Even "on/off" should be sufficient, as most induction plates will start up at 50% power when turned on. That's fine if all you need to do is inject some heat for a minute or so. Finally, what might actually be the best option IMO, because it doesn't involve modifying the device at all, but is a little clumsier, would be to build something which mechanically controls the control panel from a computer source. Something like a servo or stepper motor. With the Adcraft, it actually wouldn't be too difficult to attach a motor to the shaft of the power knob on the front, and then just calibrate its position across the power spectrum. Another benefit of these control-panel-intercept solutions is that, since the main cooktop circuit is never completely cut (as in a traditional on/off control circuit), the fan keeps running. I've noticed that on most cooktops, the fan keeps running for some time after the coil is de-energized, which helps to cool the unit down.

On another note, with your Auber, was it configured to power the Adcraft as a simple on/off switch, or is it trying to modulate the voltage/power output as you would with an actual PID controller hooked up to an immersion element? I ask because resistive heating elements are modulated by varying the power applied to them as a function of their voltage/current, but an induction plate requires full power all the time which is then further modulated by the internal circuitry. If your Cube was setup for an immersion element, it would probably cause the kind of error you described, with the Adcraft freaking out over the input power being unstable.

So far, running at 240v does not seem to be a problem. I'm very happy with the way it's working in that regard.

As far as how the cube is set up to regulate the output, my understanding is that the DSPR320 does not use a reduced voltage for lower power, it merely cycles power on/off such that it's energized at full voltage, but only a percentage of the time. It does this with a solid state relay. Given that, you should not see anything but 240v, but it could be cycled on/off.

That being said, I think I have it set to output 100% power when energized, so the behavior I'd expect would be this:

If temp is less than set value +/- allowed range or higher
Power is on to induction unit
else
Power is off to induction unit

So I'd see 240 volts until it got to set temp. Then it would cycle off and stay off until it dropped below the set temp. At that point, it would turn back on until it reached the set temp, then back off.

Always on or off at 240v with no rapid cycling.

I'm guessing that I'm missing something. I'm coming to the conclusion that I may be out of luck with this approach.

 

[LittleRiver]

Have ya'll seen this thread?

 

[IanMC]

Have ya'll seen this thread?

Damn... that's extremely hardcore. Definitely not something I am able to attempt at the moment, but maybe an aspirational goal for the future. Thanks for the tip!

In the meantime, I'm going to quote something I said in Hwk-I-St8's other thread:

Let me just say that it is a totally missed business opportunity that there are, as of yet, no induction plates designed for/marketed to homebrewers. Commercial examples with high-precision built-in temperature control are prohibitively expensive, yet how hard is it really to add an external probe and precise manual temperature control, when most of the tech is already built in, just locked to preset values? All we would need is something like an IC3500, but ditch the internal thermoprobe, add a jack for an external one, and give us an LCD screen with up and down buttons for the temperature. I see no reason why 1* temperature steps should be so difficult to implement. It's just a variable in a PID algorithm.

If someone (Blichmann, Spike, SS, etc.) built this, even at a moderate price premium, we would all go nuts for it and throw money at them. Induction is really the best heating source for anything less than 15 gallons or so. Simple, clean, elegant; no extra ports, protruding elements, things to leak or require cleaning. Please take our money!

 

[Jsmith2154]

Great info all! Now I just need to digest it all and decide how much equipment I want to switch out.

 

[jhnmdahl]

Spike just sent initial pricing on the 20 gallon BIAB basket or system:

20g Basket and 20g Full System Initial Pricing*
[may be subject to change before launch]
Product Price
20g NPT Basket Only
Basket +single NPT fitting on top $300
20g TC Basket Only
Basket +single TC fitting on top $325
20g NPT Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware, Chiller optional. $1,775
20g TC Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional.
$1,975

If the 15 gallon is proportionally cheaper (i.e., under $1500 with the controller, pump, and hardware included), it might be a tempting one-stop, high end solution for my typical 5+ gallon batches.

 

[craigmw]

So far, running at 240v does not seem to be a problem. I'm very happy with the way it's working in that regard.

As far as how the cube is set up to regulate the output, my understanding is that the DSPR320 does not use a reduced voltage for lower power, it merely cycles power on/off such that it's energized at full voltage, but only a percentage of the time. It does this with a solid state relay. Given that, you should not see anything but 240v, but it could be cycled on/off.

That being said, I think I have it set to output 100% power when energized, so the behavior I'd expect would be this:

If temp is less than set value +/- allowed range or higher
Power is on to induction unit
else
Power is off to induction unit

So I'd see 240 volts until it got to set temp. Then it would cycle off and stay off until it dropped below the set temp. At that point, it would turn back on until it reached the set temp, then back off.

Always on or off at 240v with no rapid cycling.

I'm guessing that I'm missing something. I'm coming to the conclusion that I may be out of luck with this approach.

Unlike most PID controllers (of which the DSPR320 is not as it uses a fuzzy logic algorithm to cycle the power at a specific PWM level), the DSPR320 switches power much more quickly. In fact, the DSPR320 detects the AC zero cross and implements its PWM function between each 1/2 cycle of the AC wave. Thus, it is switching much faster than a typical PID controller (including other Auber PID controllers) which switches on and off on the order of about once a second or so instead of 120 times per second as the EZ-Boil controllers do. The advantage to the EZ-Boil's approach is that it approximates analog output, which theoretically could help to reduce burning of the BIAB bag or scorching of wort on the heater coil (though in my experience, it still does when ramping up at 100% output). The main downside is that it wont play nice with the electronics in your induction plate. I don't believe there is a way to disable this feature on the EZ-Boil line of controllers so you may consider purchasing a 1/16 DIN PID controller to replace the EZ-Boil. My bet is that a standard PID controller would work fine with your induction plate.

 

[9Kegs]

I received this email today from SB:

We're excited to pass on the news that Larry, from Beer-N-BBQ by Larry, will be streaming a brew day on a prototype model of the Spike single vessel system. He's done a 1st Look product video already, but now he's going to really put the system to the test. Tune in to see how it works from start to finish and get an early glimpse of the newest Spike product in action!
Click below to go live with Beer-N-BBQ by Larry tomorrow at 12pm CST to see a full brew day on our single vessel brewing system!

 

[craigmw]

Spike just sent initial pricing on the 20 gallon BIAB basket or system:

20g Basket and 20g Full System Initial Pricing*
[may be subject to change before launch]
Product Price
20g NPT Basket Only
Basket +single NPT fitting on top $300
20g TC Basket Only
Basket +single TC fitting on top $325
20g NPT Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware, Chiller optional. $1,775
20g TC Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional.
$1,975

If the 15 gallon is proportionally cheaper (i.e., under $1500 with the controller, pump, and hardware included), it might be a tempting one-stop, high end solution for my typical 5+ gallon batches.

I am very interested in the BIAB basket to fit in my 22 gallon BrewBuilt eKettle. Unfortunately, it looks like it only fits down 16.36 inches into the kettle. Since the inside height of the 22 gallon kettle is about 21 inches, that means that the bottom of the basket would be roughly at the 5 gallon mark in this kettle, limiting its usefulness for typical 5 gallon batches. I wonder if Spike plans to make these for larger kettles? Nevertheless, this looks very interesting!

 

[hezagenius]

For those of you that do 5 gallon batches, are you going with the 15 gallon version? Or are you giving yourself some ability to go big and getting the 20 gallon version?

 

[sleev-les]

For those of you that do 5 gallon batches, are you going with the 15 gallon version? Or are you giving yourself some ability to go big and getting the 20 gallon version?

My plan would be to get the 20G. I already have a Grainfather for 5's. Next system would be to go bigger.

 

[ranchonodinero]

Will there be options for camlock or is it all tri clover?

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

For those of you that do 5 gallon batches, are you going with the 15 gallon version? Or are you giving yourself some ability to go big and getting the 20 gallon version?

I would think the 15 g version would be big enough for pretty much all 5G batches. You'd probably have to sparge for a huge (1.1 + gravity) beer, but I'd want to sparge for that anyway or your efficiency would be in the toilet.

I'd be concerned that the 20G would not be able to do 5G low gravity beers like the 3.5% ordinary bitter I brewed a month ago. I would think there would be too much volume below the basket. I could be wrong, but 20G seems huge for 5G batches.

 

[k-os]

Will there be options for camlock or is it all tri clover?

You can use a tri-clamp to camlock adapter. I use these.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camtc15.htm

I believe the kit they are selling would ship with their ball-lock style quick-disconnects.

 

[NewJersey]

I LOVE their ball lock QDs!
I switched from all camlock to all QD.

 

[hezagenius]

I'd be concerned that the 20G would not be able to do 5G low gravity beers like the 3.5% ordinary bitter I brewed a month ago. I would think there would be too much volume below the basket. I could be wrong, but 20G seems huge for 5G batches.

That's my big concern. I think the 20 gallon setup might just be too big for 5 gallon batches.

 

[k-os]

That's my big concern. I think the 20 gallon setup might just be too big for 5 gallon batches.

Assuming they have the element at the same height as the element in my 20 gallon kettle from them I would agree. It's at about the 4.5 gallon mark in my 20 gallon kettle.

 

[sleev-les]

That's my big concern. I think the 20 gallon setup might just be too big for 5 gallon batches.

No way I can see doing 5G in the 20. The first Youtube vid that was posted here showed 6 gallons of water, but only about 2 inch high in the basket. No way you could get a grain bill in that little bit of water I would think.

 

[craigmw]

No way I can see doing 5G in the 20. The first Youtube vid that was posted here showed 6 gallons of water, but only about 2 inch high in the basket. No way you could get a grain bill in that little bit of water I would think.

In my standard BIAB 5 gallon sessions using a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad bottomed kettle, I usually use about 8-9 gallons of strike water for full volume mashes and end up with about 5.5-6 gallons into the kettle, so it might work. You could always use more strike water and then have an extended boil to hit whatever final volume is needed. I usually do 10 (actually 11.5) gallon batches, but my "5 gallon" batches work out fine. On my BrewBuilt 22 gallon eBIAB system, I've done one "5 gallon" batch with a strike of 9.5 gallons and this worked out fine despite the fact that my BIAB bag is held inside a steamer pot that is at about 3" above the bottom of the kettle (about 5 gallon mark). I had plenty of space for the grain in this full volume mash session.

For me, the extra volume gained with a 22 gallon kettle is that I have the flexibility to do 5, 10 and 15 gallon batches if I so desire.

 

[sleev-les]

In my standard BIAB 5 gallon sessions using a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad bottomed kettle, I usually use about 8-9 gallons of strike water for full volume mashes and end up with about 5.5-6 gallons into the kettle, so it might work. You could always use more strike water and then have an extended boil to hit whatever final volume is needed. I usually do 10 (actually 11.5) gallon batches, but my "5 gallon" batches work out fine. On my BrewBuilt 22 gallon eBIAB system, I've done one "5 gallon" batch with a strike of 9.5 gallons and this worked out fine despite the fact that my BIAB bag is held inside a steamer pot that is at about 3" above the bottom of the kettle (about 5 gallon mark). I had plenty of space for the grain in this full volume mash session.

For me, the extra volume gained with a 22 gallon kettle is that I have the flexibility to do 5, 10 and 15 gallon batches if I so desire.

I can't remember which video, but I believe its the member on this forum that post reviews stated he might try a 5 gallon batch. I wasn't ever planning on trying a 5 gallon since I'm keeping my Grainfather for 5 gallons and my experimental brews. Plus when I go to the Spike BIAB system, it won't just be the system I have to buy, I'd need a 10 gallon fermenter too haha..

 

[9Kegs]

These were in an email from Spike today:


Introducing, the Spike Solo!

 

[jdudek]

Not to thread jack but do either of you have links to more details on your system? I’ve been thinking about going electric and wondering if I could manage with an induction hot plate or go the full electric kettle route.

I documented a full ebiab build including building the controller myself (more or less a lose copy of the cube mentioned above) at this website.
www.electricbrewinabag.com
have a look! My setup is 120V/20A. for 5G batches, it's more than adequate.

 

[Flathill]

WILL the new Spike BIAB Solo 20 gal basket require a mesh bag or just put the grains in the metal basket ? Also will the upper basket handle be able to be connected to a overhead lift cable if desired. Interested in learning the biab system. Currently have a 20 gal concord kettle. I need to check the diameter measurements as not sure if Spike is showing inside or outside measurements.

 

[sleev-les]

WILL the new Spike BIAB Solo 20 gal basket require a mesh bag or just put the grains in the metal basket ? Also will the upper basket handle be able to be connected to a overhead lift cable if desired. Interested in learning the biab system. Currently have a 20 gal concord kettle. I need to check the diameter measurements as not sure if Spike is showing inside or outside measurements.

No mesh bag needed. You might be able to rig up a pully system. The videos up show it being lifted by hand.

 

[Matt Orabella]

Shortcircuitedbrewer has several videos on the spike solo on youtube. I believe he does both a 10G and a 5G batch in his videos.

 

[Flathill]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

 

[k-os]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

As mentioned above, check out the videos from Short Circuited Brewers and BEER-N-BBQ By Larry. All your questions are answered in there.

 

[Yesfan]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

Once thing I could probably tell you, butterfly vs ball valve is ease of cleaning. I have a couple of fermenters now that have butterfly valves. While I haven't logged in enough use to go ahead and break those valves down, I'm assuming (hoping?) they are easier to break down and reassemble than a 3 piece NPT threaded ball valve. I've broken/reassembled my ball valves enough to know I hate it. The teflon tape never comes off the threads as easy as wrapping them.

Makes me take a much harder look at Spike's v4 kettles with the tri-clamps fittings.

 

[Bobby_M]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

The purpose in the Spike system is to throttle the recirculation speed since it's the first valve after the pump. Butterfly valves really are not the right tool for that job though as the indexed valve positions are too far apart for linear flow control. Unless they change it before release, the wort return on the inside of the basket is a barb for a short piece of silicone hose that you lay on the top of the grain. I prefer using locline for that.

 

[MarkyMarc]

Unless they change it before release, the wort return on the inside of the basket is a barb for a short piece of silicone hose that you lay on the top of the grain.

It looks like they are using one of their short tri clamp pickup tubes with a silicone hose over the pickup side for wort return.

 

[pretzelb]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

 

[jdudek]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

can you elaborate on your suspicion? I would have though basket with hard sides are the right way to do this. My thinking ia that the mash will flow in the dead space between the basket and the kettle wall rather than flowing through the grain, the former being the path of least resistance. The hard walls would force the water through the grain bed...I have no data on this, so curious to know what your experience with hard wall basket is.

 

[ahariton]

Question for those brewing indoors: what do you do to handle the inevitable drips, leaks, spills? My setup will be in a room with wood laminate flooring and no floor drain. How big of an issue is that? Any thoughts on how to best protect the floor from the inevitable?

I'm transitioning from outdoor biab, so want to make sure I'm thinking through everything up front.

Thanks

Andy

 

[cheesebach]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

Have you looked at the Unibrau eBIAB system? The Unibrau V3 system has solid sides for the grain basket and I haven't seen many if any issues of stuck mashes with that system. Also, the grainfather grain pipe uses solid sidewalls, albeit with an overflow pipe down the center. Personally, I'd like to have some assurance that the recirc is actually passing through the grain bed rather than around it, but I could see where having some overflow path the recirc can take if the flow through the bed becomes too slow would be good to have to prevent the element from running dry.

 

[MarkyMarc]

Question for those brewing indoors: what do you do to handle the inevitable drips, leaks, spills? My setup will be in a room with wood laminate flooring and no floor drain. How big of an issue is that? Any thoughts on how to best protect the floor from the inevitable?

I'm transitioning from outdoor bias, so want to make sure I'm thinking through everything up front.

Thanks

Andy

I'm also going to be moving to an area with wood laminate flooring. I was thinking a washing machine pan under my kettle cart might be the way to go.

Something like this.

 

[ahariton]

I'm also going to be moving to an area with wood laminate flooring. I was thinking a washing machine pan under my kettle cart might be the way to go.

Something like this.

I like the washing machine pan idea!

Any good suggestions for a cart/table?