Spike Conical- observations and best practices

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mongoose33

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I never attempt to use the hydrometer tube to take my sample. Typically by the time I'm ready to take a sample the fermentor has already been sealed up therefore it has 5+ psi on it. I usually open the sample port alot very quickly with a large container underneath and it will blast the dryhops out and from that point on it can be opened normally without the clogging. I Just need to be ready to close the valve quick because once it clears it comes out very quick. Cheers
Yeah, you'll only try to use your hydrometer tube under the sample valve one time. :)

I drain mine into a half-gallon plastic pitcher, first blasting it a bit to clear any trub. Then I'll fill about 4 ounces of beer into the pitcher, and transfer to the hydrometer tube.
 

Nate R

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Yeah, you'll only try to use your hydrometer tube under the sample valve one time. :)

I drain mine into a half-gallon plastic pitcher, first blasting it a bit to clear any trub. Then I'll fill about 4 ounces of beer into the pitcher, and transfer to the hydrometer tube.
I think it is time fot y'all to invest in a refractometer! Amazon it for i think $20... you can calibrate with distilled or r/o water easily. Also many free on line calculations to convert.

All you need is like 0.5 ounce or less liquid to measure. So much easier, so much less waste!!

I am hoping ti some get a hannah or parr system out of a) pure laziness and b) just think they are cool.
But i cannot justfiy that expense!
 

mongoose33

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I think it is time fot y'all to invest in a refractometer! Amazon it for i think $20... you can calibrate with distilled or r/o water easily. Also many free on line calculations to convert.

All you need is like 0.5 ounce or less liquid to measure. So much easier, so much less waste!!

I am hoping ti some get a hannah or parr system out of a) pure laziness and b) just think they are cool.
But i cannot justfiy that expense!
I have one, have for years. What calculator are you using to convert to gravity? Because, as you know I'm sure, once you get alcohol into the beer, a refractometer is no longer giving you good readings.
 
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Nate R

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I have one, have for years. What calculator are you using to convert to gravity? Because, as you know I'm sure, once you get alcohol into the beer, a refractometer is not longer giving you good readings.
I snagged it off of morebeer's website- it is free.

I keep my brewing log in excell so it easy for me to keep track.

I should also note inam a little clumsy so the delicate glass hydrometer of mine is safest in the drawer!
 

Blazinlow86

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I think it is time fot y'all to invest in a refractometer! Amazon it for i think $20... you can calibrate with distilled or r/o water easily. Also many free on line calculations to convert.

All you need is like 0.5 ounce or less liquid to measure. So much easier, so much less waste!!

I am hoping ti some get a hannah or parr system out of a) pure laziness and b) just think they are cool.
But i cannot justfiy that expense!
I have one. Cheers
 

mongoose33

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I’ve got 2 refractometers, a tilt and 2 hydrometers (one for OG and one for FG). I do enjoy measuring gravity [emoji16]
You must be well-grounded, then. :)

I have one refractometer, two Tilts, one Tilt repeater, two regular hydrometers, and two FG hydrometers. Guess I am, too. :)
 
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Nate R

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You must be well-grounded, then. :)

I have one refractometer, two Tilts, one Tilt repeater, two regular hydrometers, and two FG hydrometers. Guess I am, too. :)
Yeah... i got all you suckers beat!!!
I got one refractometer, and before that i had one hydrometer and like 130 pieces of parts of about 5 hydrometers!!
 

orono

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I received my CF5 this week. So far all I've done is put it together.

I put in 10 PSI to test it and was losing about 1 PSI per day.
I put my CF5 together yesterday. That's all I've done so far. My question can I use a hand pump to put 10 PSI of "air" in the system rather than use CO2 for pressure testing?
 

Nate R

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I put my CF5 together yesterday. That's all I've done so far. My question can I use a hand pump to put 10 PSI of "air" in the system rather than use CO2 for pressure testing?
I don't see why not.
I assme you have the pressure kit right? The gauge, prv, and ball lock gas in post?

Seems like a smart way to save c02 costs.
 

orono

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I don't see why not.
I assume you have the pressure kit right? The gauge, prv, and ball lock gas in post?
Seems like a smart way to save c02 costs.
You are correct I bought the gas manifold bundle. Saving CO2 plus convenience is why I am asking

And imagine how buffed he'll appear after all that pumping!
I didn't know that pressure testing a fermenter would be good for your physique....that is what you meant, correct? ;)
 

mongoose33

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You are correct I bought the gas manifold bundle. Saving CO2 plus convenience is why I am asking


I didn't know that pressure testing a fermenter would be good for your physique....that is what you meant, correct? ;)
Yeah....sure....that's what I meant. Yes.

:)

Please let us know how long it takes you to hand-pump 10 psi in a fermenter. I think the over-under is 32 minutes. I'll take the over.
 

Vale71

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Yeah....sure....that's what I meant. Yes.

:)

Please let us know how long it takes you to hand-pump 10 psi in a fermenter. I think the over-under is 32 minutes. I'll take the over.
If you fill it almost to the brim with water first it won't take that long at all. :)
 

Vale71

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A few milligrams per liter? The pressure drop will amount to a fraction of a millibar at best, which means that unless you have a super-accurate manometer there is no way you will ever be able to detect it.

Remember that O2 is much less soluble than CO2 and nitrogen is even less soluble.
 

Nate R

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A few milligrams per liter? The pressure drop will amount to a fraction of a millibar at best, which means that unless you have a super-accurate manometer there is no way you will ever be able to detect it.

Remember that O2 is much less soluble than CO2 and nitrogen is even less soluble.
Nah.... my experience has been if have liquid in there (even say just 2 gallons) the c02 gauge will drop a little... so you cant tell if it is a leak or normal.

Best to test the seal with no liquid just air
 

Blazinlow86

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A few milligrams per liter? The pressure drop will amount to a fraction of a millibar at best, which means that unless you have a super-accurate manometer there is no way you will ever be able to detect it.

Remember that O2 is much less soluble than CO2 and nitrogen is even less soluble.
I guess it depends on if a few milligrams per liter drop is good enough for the op purposes. Cheers
 

orono

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Nah.... my experience has been if have liquid in there (even say just 2 gallons) the c02 gauge will drop a little... so you cant tell if it is a leak or normal.

Best to test the seal with no liquid just air
This is how I'll do it. And I'll use a compressor.
 

Nate R

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Ok all. Maybe not the best place to post this but... it is related to my cf5.

I havie cold crashed and am carbing right now. Plan to xfer to a keg tommorrow.
Dont want to lose Precious hop aroma.
Instead of using a blow off tube into star stan, what if i ran a jumper from the gas out of the keg into the gas in of the cf5 pressure kit?
My only thought is will the pressure equalize it self? Or will the say 13 psi the beer is at push it all into the keg? Also the cf5 is raised above the keg.

Is this a good idea? Is it common i just have not heard about it?

Or is this a crazy dumb idea??
Thanks all!
 

Vale71

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Don't know why you think this will make you not lose hop aroma as the aroma is in the beer and will be transferred along with it, but anyway... If you connect the unpressurized keg to the pressurized fermenter first the pressure will equalize pretty quickly to a lower pressure, depending on the volume ratios of the keg to the fermenter headspace. If you connect the beer lines and do nothing the beer will just sit there forever as the keg is higher than the fermenter so there is no force being applied but gravity and that will keep the beer in the fermenter indefinitely. If you somehow where to raise the fermenter higher than the receiving keg then you could start a gravity transfer but will still risk excessive foaming as the pressure both in the fermenter and the keg is now lower than equilibrium.
 

orono

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I've looked for this answer with no luck. I put together my CF5, pressurized it (with my compressor) to 13 psi. At best it loses around 1 psi/day. I have put this together numerous ways but I still have leakage. I have tightened every clamp with a wrench, too. I have used petro gel but still have leakage. I removed the sight glass because I was getting a lot more leakage when it was hooked up.

My question is this: is there an acceptable amount of leakage or am I over reacting this thing?
 

Jag75

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@ Orono . Do you have liquid in it?

Oops nvm I see in your earlier post you said you werent gonna fill it . I had a leak at first and it was the lid . I was afraid to overtighten it. Members here told me to tighten it more and that it would be fine . Leak was fixed and no further issues.
 

Nate R

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I've looked for this answer with no luck. I put together my CF5, pressurized it (with my compressor) to 13 psi. At best it loses around 1 psi/day. I have put this together numerous ways but I still have leakage. I have tightened every clamp with a wrench, too. I have used petro gel but still have leakage. I removed the sight glass because I was getting a lot more leakage when it was hooked up.

My question is this: is there an acceptable amount of leakage or am I over reacting this thing?
If you have no liquid in it then it should hold pressure. Humor me here:

Is the gasket in correctly? Flat part MUST go inside the lid- pointy part faces down when you put the lid on. It feela and looks backwards.

Have you tried the gasket in the freezer for 10 mins?

If you can shoot just a little grease (wd-40, lithium, etc) into the clamp screw it helps.

Fill that sucker up to 15 psi and then spray star san at all potential leak reas- maybe you might see a bubble.

Take a towel on the clamp and try turning it even a little more- even 1/8" may help. This has always been the leak for me.

Do all this and still leak? Contact Spike!!
 

orono

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If you have no liquid in it then it should hold pressure. Humor me here:

Is the gasket in correctly? Flat part MUST go inside the lid- pointy part faces down when you put the lid on. It feela and looks backwards.

Have you tried the gasket in the freezer for 10 mins?

If you can shoot just a little grease (wd-40, lithium, etc) into the clamp screw it helps.

Fill that sucker up to 15 psi and then spray star san at all potential leak reas- maybe you might see a bubble.

Take a towel on the clamp and try turning it even a little more- even 1/8" may help. This has always been the leak for me.

Do all this and still leak? Contact Spike!!
I believe that the lid gasket is on correctly. However, now I'm questioning that. I'll have to check when I get home on Sunday. I did not put it (the gasket) in the freezer. Why would I do that? To me it fit well when I put it in.

I will lubricate all of the clamps on Sunday. Will soapy water do the same job as Star San to possibly show a leak? Is one batter than the other?

Towel on the clamp, you mean the lid clamp? It was damn tight when I left..

BTW, I did already contact spike with questions.
 

Nate R

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I believe that the lid gasket is on correctly. However, now I'm questioning that. I'll have to check when I get home on Sunday. I did not put it (the gasket) in the freezer. Why would I do that? To me it fit well when I put it in.

I would use star san. Soapy water may leave a soapy residue in your beer???

Use the towel on the hand clamp. Allows you to turn it a bit more.

My money is on your gasket!!!

I will lubricate all of the clamps on Sunday. Will soapy water do the same job as Star San to possibly show a leak? Is one batter than the other?

Towel on the clamp, you mean the lid clamp? It was damn tight when I left..

BTW, I did already contact spike with questions.
The gasket in freezer tightens it just a smidge. Fits more snugly in the gasket. The fact you do know 100% if you put it in right leads me to think it was bavkwards. Trust me it feels "wrong" when you do it right.
 

fatnhappy

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Pardon me if this has been answered earlier in this thread. Too many pages to wade through. Getting a cf10. I am moving my brewing operations to an uninsulated metal pole barn. I will need to build a ferment chamber. I’m thinking a walk in with heat and cooling. My question relates to flooring used to accommodate the yeast spray when dumping. I guess I can build a ramp and wheel it out onto the concrete, but I would like to avoid that
 

Jag75

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Pardon me if this has been answered earlier in this thread. Too many pages to wade through. Getting a cf10. I am moving my brewing operations to an uninsulated metal pole barn. I will need to build a ferment chamber. I’m thinking a walk in with heat and cooling. My question relates to flooring used to accommodate the yeast spray when dumping. I guess I can build a ramp and wheel it out onto the concrete, but I would like to avoid that
I have carpet where mine is . I use a hose connected to a barbed fitting and dump into a small plastic waste basket.
 

Nate R

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Pardon me if this has been answered earlier in this thread. Too many pages to wade through. Getting a cf10. I am moving my brewing operations to an uninsulated metal pole barn. I will need to build a ferment chamber. I’m thinking a walk in with heat and cooling. My question relates to flooring used to accommodate the yeast spray when dumping. I guess I can build a ramp and wheel it out onto the concrete, but I would like to avoid that
Not sure i understand your question 100%, but i would suggest you get a 2" tri-clamp adapter you can attach a hose to. Then dump the yeast via the tube into a container.

I would caution you from just spraying, as it does come out with a lot of pressure. Then you have sweet sticky wort everywhere. If you don't clean it up 100% it will probably turn moldy. (Not that this happened to me before when i had my cf5 in an upright freezer!)

Looks like this:
$13 from spike, or you can probably get almost anywhere.

Screenshot_20191027-072615_Chrome.jpg

https://spikebrewing.com/collections/conical-accessories/products/2-tc-x-barb
 

fatnhappy

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I never saw the tri-clamp to hose adapter. That’s great. I’ve just seen the videos of the yeast dump going everywhere. Thank you gentlemen
 

Nate R

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I never saw the tri-clamp to hose adapter. That’s great. I’ve just seen the videos of the yeast dump going everywhere. Thank you gentlemen
Therr is a tri-clamp for literally everything!!!! I got a 2" to ball lock for easy peezy transfers. (From nor cal brewing)
Seriously, you can find tri clamps for anything!!
Or hit up @Jaybird at nor cal brewing solutions and he can make you anything you want that cannot find!!

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com
 

eric19312

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Pardon me if this has been answered earlier in this thread. Too many pages to wade through. Getting a cf10. I am moving my brewing operations to an uninsulated metal pole barn. I will need to build a ferment chamber. I’m thinking a walk in with heat and cooling. My question relates to flooring used to accommodate the yeast spray when dumping. I guess I can build a ramp and wheel it out onto the concrete, but I would like to avoid that
I’m doing maiden voyage on my CF15 today. Here it is my fermentation chamber.

IMG_0187.JPG

IMG_0002.JPG
 
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