Spigot Size on Mash Tun

[Grizzlybrew]

I have converted and currently use a 7 and a 10 gal rubbermaid cooler for mashing. Just recently, I was given a 10 gal igloo cooler and I am in the process of converting it for a friend.

After buying all the parts to convert, I realized the hole on the igloo is signifigantly larger on the igloo than on the rubbermaid. Without modification, the rubbermaid accomodates a 3/8" nipple while the igloo will accomodate a 1/2" nipple.

With the 3/8" nipple on the rubermaid, it's a given that I would (and do) use a 3/8" barb/hose as the output. Now, with the igloo, I have the option of a 3/8" or 1/2" barb.

The question is:
Are there any benefits/problems with using a larger barb/hose size? My main concern is too great a draw on the grain bed, causing stuck runoffs/sparges. Can a slow opening of the valve avoid this or should I even be concerned.

Just seeking some opinions. Thanks.

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

If I recall correctly I ran 1/2" nipples for both of my coolers, put a 1/2" valve on, then ran 3/8" barbs off them. I cannot see any benefit to having one barb larger than the other unless you are batch sparging and even then for the reasons you describe, bigger and faster isn't always better. Also, remember that fluid flow is always limited by the smallest fitting or opening, so in this case if your nipple ID is 3/8", then a 1/2" ID barb is of absolutely no use... plus, I like keeping everything as uniform as possible so I don't have to keep several amounts of fittings/tubing on hand.

 

[Wade E]

Id go 3/8th just to keep them all the same but yes, if you open slow and keep is even then 1/2" will work fine. You should even open your 3/8" slow!

 

[Grizzlybrew]

If I recall correctly I ran 1/2" nipples for both of my coolers, put a 1/2" valve on, then ran 3/8" barbs off them. I cannot see any benefit to having one barb larger than the other unless you are batch sparging and even then for the reasons you describe, bigger and faster isn't always better. Also, remember that fluid flow is always limited by the smallest fitting or opening, so in this case if your nipple ID is 3/8", then a 1/2" ID barb is of absolutely no use... plus, I like keeping everything as uniform as possible so I don't have to keep several amounts of fittings/tubing on hand.

My HLT (60 quart aluminum kettle) has a 1/2" valve necked down to a 3/8" barb. I did this just because my rubbermaid MLT has a 3/8" and wanted the sparge water input to match the wort runoff output (just as you stated above). I'm not considering going up to a 1/2" on my rubbermaid MLT at this time.

The igloo cooler I'm converting now is for a friend and will be a new system for him - Trying to decide to give him a 3/8" or 1/2" spigot barb...

 

[Grizzlybrew]

Id go 3/8th just to keep them all the same but yes, if you open slow and keep is even then 1/2" will work fine. You should even open your 3/8" slow!

I usually do and definitely have better results than when I first started and wouljd just throw it open. I was hoping it wouljd work for the 1/2" as well - sounds like it will.

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

The igloo cooler I'm converting now is for a friend and will be a new system for him - Trying to decide to give him a 3/8" or 1/2" spigot barb...

I apologize, I misread your post... I would ask your friend what size hose(s) he intends to use and make your decision from there. I guess I just like standardization but I definitely would use the same size valves, barbs, and hose for the HLT and MLT.