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Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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I am in the middle of my first batch with the 20L, a nice ESB. A few thoughts:
*I really like this machine! It really saves a lot of space and complexity - no separate thermometers, pumps, timers, pots, and the like. I'm doing on top of the washing machine and running laundry for SWMBO with all the spare time.
*It is so easy! Except for a couple tasks you can walk away or work on cleaning up your equipment. At the start, I was getting things ready while the water was heating, and then I cleaned the malt pipe and so on while waiting for boil temperature.
*The jacket really works. I have a nice rolling boil
*It said add hops, so I just tossed in the pellets, but the pump was running and I heard it chopping through them - I hope it is okay. Then I realized it wasn't yet at boil, and needed to ramp up. It did then ask again for hops when the pump was off. Was I just too impulsive? Do you think the pellets hurt the pump?
* This thing puts out a lot of heat. The room is full of steam and hop aroma.
*This machine really gives us versatility. I wonder if less modified malts would be good for some lagers? You can change the lengths of the rests to get less body, more alcohol, more body, more head proteins, and so on.
* I need a lot more information about mash schedules. There are some on the Speidel site, but not much explanation. I may have to get back to the theory sections in the texts.
* My elevation is less than 500 feet but I never got above 99 degrees C
 
Jette, well done, my first brew was also an ESB.

About the mash schedules. Lately I've used infusion Hochkurz mash which is very popular in Germany commercially. I've noticed that the wort gets very bright very early and that my 4.3% beers taste like 5+% easily mouthfeel-wise.

Mash in (5minutes) 55degc
maltose rest 40m 63c
dextrinisation 50m 70c
mash out 15m 77c

Braukaiser explains it all better (scroll down):
http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Infusion_Mashing
 
*It said add hops, so I just tossed in the pellets, but the pump was running and I heard it chopping through them - I hope it is okay. Then I realized it wasn't yet at boil, and needed to ramp up. It did then ask again for hops when the pump was off. Was I just too impulsive? Do you think the pellets hurt the pump?

The BM told you what?? The Braumeister does not keep track of your hop additions (but maybe I misunderstood). The pumps are never on during the boil – which means you added your hops way too early. The pumps turn off at 88 degrees Celsius.

...or does the BM keep track of your hop additions in the preset mode?? I can't find anything about that in the manual – and I have always programmed my own mash schedules.


* This thing puts out a lot of heat. The room is full of steam and hop aroma.

It sure does. That is why I added the hood which is connected to a ventilation system.


* My elevation is less than 500 feet but I never got above 99 degrees C

But you still had a good rolling boil? Then I would not worry too much. If you do not get a good boil, invest in the hood (copper or stainless).
 
Adding hops before the boil kicks in is called first-wort hopping and is a fairly popular technique these days.

However, CJ - I think you bring up a good point that given the BM's technical peculiarity of running the pump until the wort hits 88C, maybe FWH better not be used to avoid messing up the pump.

Or perhaps it can be done if you have the right equipment - such as a metal mesh hop strainer.
 
Jette, well done, my first brew was also an ESB.


Braukaiser explains it all better (scroll down):
http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Infusion_Mashing

Very nice, thanks for the link!

I popped a home brew while doing my mash. This is the first one of the year. It is an old Papazian recipe, so I did not expect greatness. It was crystal clear, three to four fingers of foam, light, clean and refreshing. Charlie was right when he said the Honey Lager is better than anything you are paying good money for now! SWMBO likes it better than a Belgian!
 
Guys, I'd like to share a lifehack about the Heat Insulation Jacket for BMs:

One could save a fortune by getting the foil backed camping mat for $13
http://amzn.com/B00G238F74

And cut out the holes for handles/valve in 5 minutes instead of paying the $100+ for the original version.

The standard size mat available in Russia (for just $5 :) ) fits perfectly well for 50L BM
 
Adding hops before the boil kicks in is called first-wort hopping and is a fairly popular technique these days.

Quite familiar with FWH. But that involves adding a portion of the hops at the beginning of the sparging (for example as soon as the malt pipe is removed) - and I got the feeling that the BM told him to add the hops before the boil had started (before 88 degrees Celsius). I honestly got quite confused (almost thought that he had a never version of the controller software).

maybe FWH better not be used to avoid messing up the pump.

I agree. I would still use FWH, but make sure to use a strainer or similar (hop bag) until the pump stops at 88 degrees Celsius.
 
One could save a fortune by getting the foil backed camping mat for $13
http://amzn.com/B00G238F74

Thanks - got a photo by any chance?

I considered doing that, but I am afraid that the plastic part of the mat is not high-temp grade, thus it may start melting during the boil time.

...BM told him to add the hops...

To the best of my recollection, BM doesn't track one's hop additions.
 
You can definitely program reminders for hop additions during the boil.

And how do you do that?? I searched the whole manual and found nothing (although it's not the first time the BM hides secret functions that's not mentioned in the manual).
 
I was just setting up the program and it asked about hop additions. I think there were 3 or 4 options, I used 3 additions of pellet hops.
 
And how do you do that?? I searched the whole manual and found nothing (although it's not the first time the BM hides secret functions that's not mentioned in the manual).
It is introduced in a newer version of the firmware. You probably have an older firmware if it is not there.

Niels
 
It is introduced in a newer version of the firmware. You probably have an older firmware if it is not there.

As I suspected - a new version of the firmware! I hope the hop addition-phase-function is the only difference from the version I have (I can - and want to - live without that).

Higher temperature accuracy etc. - that I would love to have.
 
As I suspected - a new version of the firmware! I hope the hop addition-phase-function is the only difference from the version I have (I can - and want to - live without that).

Higher temperature accuracy etc. - that I would love to have.

Just confirmed it's 3 hop additions you can program. And it's not mentioned in my version of the Operating Instructions :)

It's a minor feature - just an alarm. It's a nice-to-have if I'm not paying attention to when the boil timer starts. I usually use my BeerSmith timer since I'll mostly have more than 3 boil additions (hops, Whirlfloc, Servomyces, malt extract).
 
It is introduced in a newer version of the firmware. You probably have an older firmware if it is not there.

Niels

Thanks Niels - is there a way to upgrade the firmware? I usually just use the kitchen timer as a reminder for my hop / whirlfloc / yeast nutrients additions reminder.

If the new firmware fine-tunes the temp control, I'd like to have it if the upgrade is possible.
 
And it brews better beer! :) I also noticed that they may have adjusted the temp sensor. Others had to set 102 to get a good boil, but my status does not exceed 99 C, so 100 is fine.
 
Thanks Niels - is there a way to upgrade the firmware?

I emailed Speidel before Xmas about this and Ralf advised the older units' processor is at the maximum capacity and cannot be upgraded.

No big deal in the grand scheme of things.

cliffo
 
with the topic of the hood coming up a few posts back i would like to canvas opinion among BM-ers (posted something similar on nielsr's new bm forum https://forum.braumeisters.net/ but no response yet). i'm building a new brew space and there is an old dryer duct. in my old place i ran the BM in the kitchen and cracked open the window. the result was a lot of steam throughout the apartment and ceiling condensation above the BM, with that tough kitchen paint you can get it was no problem but still not ideal to fill the place with steam. so i am thinking of getting the stainless hood, and connecting directly to the duct and out a little chimney. my fear is that i'm going to get condensation in the duct and backwash of all the dust (and dms) into my wort unless i make a trap, ie a low point on the duct that can be drained. or else i need to install a kitchen fan to actively blow out. hood users- what are your thoughts please?? is everyone connecting to a fan? thanks!!
 
with the topic of the hood coming up a few posts back i would like to canvas opinion among BM-ers...

First of all - my ventilation system is NOT constructed in this way today. But the basic construction is the same.

Ventilation.jpg


Today the fan is located at the end of the pipe. The bend is of steel (not plastic like in the picture) and I don't have a plastic connection to the hood...

...yes, plastic melts.

No risk of DMS getting back in the boil with this system. The steam cools down at the bend and drips down the other end as water.
 
The fans can be set up outside to 'suck' air into the pipe rather than mounted inside end to blow down them.
 
Has anyone regretted going with the Braumeister? I see the gravity limitations and I'm wondering if this can be fixed with a smaller crush? Does that add any astringency?

Sorry if this is a redundant question, I am close to buying one, but I want to make sure it does everything I need. The cleaning of my keggles is getting to be a bit monotonous, so I need a change.

Also, if I get the 50L can I do full boil 5 gallon batches?
 
Has anyone regretted going with the Braumeister?

Not yet – and I have had mine well over a year now (almost two I recon!). If I want to make Big Beers I add mash extensions (spray malt). I have also concentrated the wort by boiling to a volume under 20 litres (but I rather not do that). I guess you could do two mashes – and boil them both at the same time. But that takes some extra time...
 
nervous- definitely no regrets. but i bought it for the small footprint, so i could assemble and brew in my kitchen, then take it down and stash away. for that you can't beat the BM. smaller crush could possibly not recirculate as well, i think in general (from reading many pages of this thread and personal experience) people have better efficiency from more coarse crush.

coldjazz- thanks for the pic, where you have the low point on your tubing do you have a valve to drain the condensed water? assuming you vent to outside...
 
I have not tried any big beers in it yet, but I am truly amazed at how easy brewing is with it. You could do a second mash, you could boil it down further, or you could add LME/DME. That wouldn't be the end of the world. It does allow you to make some amazing beers - step mashing is so simple, just pushing a button. I'm glad I did not go through the 3 vessel stage when I went to all grain. But you could always keep your old equipment.
 
I have not tried any big beers in it yet, but I am truly amazed at how easy brewing is with it. You could do a second mash, you could boil it down further, or you could add LME/DME. That wouldn't be the end of the world. It does allow you to make some amazing beers - step mashing is so simple, just pushing a button. I'm glad I did not go through the 3 vessel stage when I went to all grain. But you could always keep your old equipment.

I'm about to start fermenting my 2nd "big beer." First one came out really good - a double wheat beer (1.080 SG). Second one is about to be kegged - a doppelbock (also 1.080 SG). It's looking really good so far.

Used LME for both. I have a close, local source of high quality LME (MoreBeer). Pretty easy to work with it in the Braumeister. The first time, I tried adding the LME directly to the BM, but the extract went right to the pump and gummed it up. Now I pull a few liters out of the boil to dilute the LME on my stove top in a big pot before adding.
 
Good tip for us working with integral pumps. You could do a double batch and add it for the boil. You could also get a 50l.
 
he first time, I tried adding the LME directly to the BM, but the extract went right to the pump and gummed it up.

I always add it to the boil - as the pumps are off. As soon as the boil starts rolling I add the spray malt.
 
thanks for the pic, where you have the low point on your tubing do you have a valve to drain the condensed water? assuming you vent to outside...

Right now the water simply drips down in a vessel (same as I use for the spent grains).

But I will try and find another solution as I upgrade my system. The steam condense quickly into water, so I don't think I will be able to transport it outside the brewery (unless I crack the brewery walls open).
 
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