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Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Well, I finally parted company with the original valve and modded my BM20 using a 3/4" to 1/2" hex adapter, 1/2" ball valve and a 1/2" barbed fitting.

I bought the hex adapter here... http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=rnipp075x050 while there I bought a 600 and 400 micron EZ Strainer.

I also added a Hop Rocket to be used, in part, as a filter. Whole hops and/or rice hulls would be used as the filter media depending on the recipe.
 
Am I the dumbest BM user on the planet? :(Yesterday I was brewing for the first time since June and all was going well.
Grains weighed and crushed.
Water filtered and sat overnight.
Starter going for day and a half.
Brought water up to dough in temp.
Disaster!!
While I was doughing in I was looking down beside the BM and noticed both sets of screens!! :confused:
Of course I was only one scoop short of having the whole malt bill in the tube.
I severely admonished my self, pulled the plug,Drained 1/2 of the wort into a bucket then tipped the whole thing into a bucket with an old BIAB bag I had.
After much swearing, rinsing, and cleaning ( including special care to the pump) I was ready to roll again.
I had only 2 scoops into the tube this time before I started calling myself all of the names my wife saves for me.
F#$% I did it again.
Went through the cleaning process again, and finished the brewday with no more excitement. The whole mess cost me about an hour so not that bad, and only missed my OG by a coulpe of points.
I expect/hope I am not the only one that has ever done this, however, it is with great humility that I admit that this was not my first expeience with idiocy, as I did the same exact thing with my 3rd BM day and didn't think I could possibly ever repeat it.
Hands up everyone who has ever done this?? I hope I am no alone in first place.:rockin:
 
Am I the dumbest BM user on the planet? :(Yesterday I was brewing for the first time since June and all was going well.
Grains weighed and crushed.
Water filtered and sat overnight.
Starter going for day and a half.
Brought water up to dough in temp.
Disaster!!
While I was doughing in I was looking down beside the BM and noticed both sets of screens!! :confused:
Of course I was only one scoop short of having the whole malt bill in the tube.
I severely admonished my self, pulled the plug,Drained 1/2 of the wort into a bucket then tipped the whole thing into a bucket with an old BIAB bag I had.
After much swearing, rinsing, and cleaning ( including special care to the pump) I was ready to roll again.
I had only 2 scoops into the tube this time before I started calling myself all of the names my wife saves for me.
F#$% I did it again.
Went through the cleaning process again, and finished the brewday with no more excitement. The whole mess cost me about an hour so not that bad, and only missed my OG by a coulpe of points.
I expect/hope I am not the only one that has ever done this, however, it is with great humility that I admit that this was not my first expeience with idiocy, as I did the same exact thing with my 3rd BM day and didn't think I could possibly ever repeat it.
Hands up everyone who has ever done this?? I hope I am no alone in first place.:rockin:

Only a matter of time.
 
Okay Braumeister brewers, I need your help. But first I'd like to ask people to refrain from telling me not to filter. I would encourage people that DO filter to share their thoughts.

What I want:
Diamond bright beer. Not the kind that you see in photos on the forum where people are bragging that it is "crystal clear" but isn't; the kind where I can see and anticipate an assailant's attack while looking directly through a glass of pilsner :). I want it that way after cold crashing the finished, racked beer for 2-3 days. I also want to be able to take a keg of finished, carbonated beer anywhere and not "kick up" a bunch of sediment at the bottom making my beer look murky. Those are my goals, and that's why I chose to filter.

My process today is this:
  • I brew 10 Gallon batches
  • All grain, mash is recirculated (I brew on a Braumeister 50L)
  • I usually don't do a protein rest, as my electric system takes time to ramp up to different temps and I worry about the variability of enzyme activity on different ramp times, etc. I want to be consistent, but understand the benefits of a protein rest.
  • I control PH by pre-treating RO water, and adding salts (usually 9 grams of calcium chloride to 5 grams of gypsum for malty beers and close to vice-versa for hoppy beers. I split this amount into 2 additions, one for mash, one for kettle, aiming to have at least 50 PPM of calcium ions in the mash.
  • I don't sparge, it's kind of like brew in the bag
  • I usually mash for 45 min to 1 hour, I don't test for conversion. I taste the mash and I usually hit my numbers dead on.
  • I always use whirlfoc at 15 minutes left in the boil
  • Quickly cool my wort by using an immersion chiller and running electric kettle pumps.
  • I always add gelatin to the keg directly after racking off the better-bottle and just before I throw the keg in my cold refrigerator (32F), although sometimes I don't see a point to it frankly.
  • I've tried polyclar on occasion just to see if it would make a difference. Mostly I haven't noticed a difference because I don't think it's chill haze (photos to prove it forthcoming).

So, the idea is to drop the yeast or to clump it with gelatin, cold-filter the beer so that the proteins are clumped as well. First I used a plate filter and got terrible results on the 3-5 micron and 7 micron pads. In fact it may have made my beer CLOUDIER as crazy as that sounds. I attribute that to pushing the yeast with too much pressure and being a total newb at filtering. I did however get fed up with the plate filter and exchanged it for one of those canister ones because of how annoying it was to assemble the unit and constant air leaks everywhere. The canister is much better IMO at holding pressure and keeping air out of the beer, but my results are still dismal with this filter. I used the 1 micron nominal, don't know the manufacturer.

I brewed a very tasty blonde ale fermented with Belgian Strong Ale™ 1388 (very low floc, you know if you've ever brewed with it). It took it's sweet time to ferment (4 weeks) before showing ANY signs of dropping, I then racked it to a keg, threw a packet of knox gelatin (dissolved in hot water) over the top, closed, purged keg, and stuck it in the 32F fridge overnight. Next day, I filtered using the canister w/ the 1 micron nominal disposable spindle-style filter. This is what I got today:

2013-08-21%2009.59.44.jpg
46.8F

2013-08-21%2010.18.58.jpg
-52.2F

2013-08-21%2010.47.16.jpg
- 58 F

No change so this is clearly not chill haze, and it looks the same as the third pic at room temp. WTF is going on here? Filters don't work like that! I need some HBT insight.

Hi Soviet,

Are you perhaps using a good deal of adjuncts - like oats or rye?

They tend to cloudy up the beer quite a fair bit.

By the way - BioFine works very well as a fining; gotta watch out for the expiration date though.
 
This is as bright and clear as I get my beer and that's with a Protofloc tablet. Perhaps not super clear but enough for me.

IMG_1967_zps8c7290c3.jpg
 
Just be sure if you are stirring the mash and are in manual mode (or even in program) that the pump is OFF.

It may sound stupid but i made this mistake somehow and ended up with a ton of grain being pushed out and into the system. Had to turn everything off. Strain it, clean everything and put the wort back in and shovel soggy grain back into the malt pipe. A very time costly mistake.

And this is where I am right now.

Howdy y'all, got the 20-liter 2 weeks ago and managed to get 4 batches done last week, ending up with a OG of 1.061 on the last batch (22 liters in the fermenter, 6kg of malt and 250g of candi).

While I'm happy with this, I want to get the OG higher, and after sparging with ~6 liters (over 15 minutes) I let the malt pipe drain away from the BM. For the sake of curiosity I measured the gravity of the remaining run-of and it was 1.040, in my opinion waaay too high.

This brings me back to the problem of stirring the mash. While it makes alot of sense, I'm a bit worried that the pump will start up while I'm messing around with the malt pipe. So, is it only possible to do this if I'm running the BM on manual, or is it possible to do this on program also? Is there a pause function, or do I have to watch the display, start stirring like crazy when the break sets in, hopefully putting the malt pipe back together before it starts pumping Again?).

Great thread btw, I've been through it a couple of times now! :)
 
Malloy, I don't have my manual with me but I am sure that you can pause during a pump break by pressing the up and down arrows at the same time. I don't recall just how to go back to the program though.
 
(SNIP)

This brings me back to the problem of stirring the mash. While it makes alot of sense, I'm a bit worried that the pump will start up while I'm messing around with the malt pipe. So, is it only possible to do this if I'm running the BM on manual, or is it possible to do this on program also? Is there a pause function, or do I have to watch the display, start stirring like crazy when the break sets in, hopefully putting the malt pipe back together before it starts pumping Again?).

Great thread btw, I've been through it a couple of times now! :)



To suspend the automatic program, press the up and down arrow buttons at the same time. The screen will present the option to "continue" or "abort." After you have finished stirring and clamped down the malt pipe with the tube and wingnut, you can press the button corresponding to "continue" to resume the automatic program.
 
To suspend the automatic program, press the up and down arrow buttons at the same time. The screen will present the option to "continue" or "abort." After you have finished stirring and clamped down the malt pipe with the tube and wingnut, you can press the button corresponding to "continue" to resume the automatic program.

Perfect! Thank you (both of you)!!

Just finished my Fifth batch in a week, I may have reached the limit of wife acceptence and I will take a short break (until fermentation buckets are ready to go Again!).

Awesome machine, I can't wait to start experimenting with it! :)
 
I sadly packed my 20l Braumeister away in June in anticipation of a house move. It didn't happen and now I'm having MAJOR withdrawals!

I'm living vicariously through you guys, so please, give me my fix and post some photos of your brew days and lovely beers before I go off the deep end!

Just to get the ball rolling...here is a pic of one of the best beers I've made so far. A 6.1% Saison. Not sure if you can tell but it's has the most fantastic orange colour and tastes fantastic!

P.S. This is the best thread on the internet, and I wanted to thank you all for making it so great

image-562016627.jpg
 
Hi guys,

any of you concerned about hot side aeration ?
With the RIMS there is hot wort dripping down from the malt tube ..
I never had badly oxidized beer from BM (done close to 100 batches on 20L)
But just thinking ...
 
Hi guys,

any of you concerned about hot side aeration ?
With the RIMS there is hot wort dripping down from the malt tube ..
I never had badly oxidized beer from BM (done close to 100 batches on 20L)
But just thinking ...

Check out John Palmer's book, Chapter 6 - Yeast 6.9.3 Aeration is Good, Oxidation is Bad. I try to minimize the aeration after the boil until the wort is below 80F.
 
My boil doesn't go past 94 and I'm at 5,800 ft.
I'm in Colorado too (5200') and mine boils nicely at 95C with the insulating jacket. Question though: When does the boil timer kick in if the boil is programmed for 100C and never gets within 4-5 degrees of target? Last weekend my boil timer counted for about 20 minutes, and then stopped counting down. Temp was a pretty steady at 95C the whole time. Don't remember this happening before, although I do tend to switch to manual once the boil starts. Should I set the boil target temp to 95-96C to get the timer to work (or 95C plus the tolerance that starts the timer, e.g., +/- X degrees C)?
 
Just answered part of my question by reading the manual (duh). Says timing starts after a waiting period of 3 minutes after reaching at least 95C. Not sure if the timer then stops if it goes below 95C, but my timer definately stopped at 20 min and never restarted, even with the temp at 95.
 
Just answered part of my question by reading the manual (duh). Says timing starts after a waiting period of 3 minutes after reaching at least 95C. Not sure if the timer then stops if it goes below 95C, but my timer definately stopped at 20 min and never restarted, even with the temp at 95.

Timer stops. I experienced this with my cooler, popped it in the remaining 5 minutes of the boil, timer stopped and didn't restart until after the temp had reached 98c.
 
Outdoor brewing question with 'das machine' Has anyone used it outside during the winter, or is that simply just not going to work?
 
My 20L has finally arrived...1st brew in a few days...have to try and rig the "dip tube" mod first. I haven't been this excited about something for a while..can't wait to fire it up. Looks like Speidels has been listening to this thread...the packaging was stellar...no damage of any kind...and they have added a nice durable black material along the bottom metal edges that people had been originally concerned about. Very cool.

image-1128771882.jpg
 
I think you can get a shorter malt pipe for the 50l that would allow 5 gal brews.
 
I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?

If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?

I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.
 
So I ordered the 20l stainless chiller with my Braumeister...and it came with "quick disconnect" male ends already installed. I just went the local hardware store to buy the female ends so that I could hook it up to a garden hose...but the standard female ends they have to use with garden hoses do not fit these pre-installed ends....they are too large. Does anyone know what size these ends are, and how I can order / find the appropriate female ends to use? I really don't want to just cut these off and have to re-install new ends.



UPDATE:

Went to a different hardware store...and they had two different sized male/female quick disconnect pairs..so I was able to purchase the smaller size...and it fits perfectly! Hurray....first brew day still on for tomorrow.
 
So I ordered the 20l stainless chiller with my Braumeister...and it came with "quick disconnect" male ends already installed. I just went the local hardware store to buy the female ends so that I could hook it up to a garden hose...but the standard female ends they have to use with garden hoses do not fit these pre-installed ends....they are too large. Does anyone know what size these ends are, and how I can order / find the appropriate female ends to use? I really don't want to just cut these off and have to re-install new ends.

In my speidel chiller the right sized hose just fits into the connector, loosen the quick disconnect and you're able to push the hose inside it, then tighten it.
 
brewbush said:
I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?

If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?

I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.

I currently use gravity-fed Therminator - terrific piece of equipment. I live near the equator (my water temperature hardly ever drops below 27C), so I consider getting another one. First one would be cooled from the hose and the second one from the bucket of pump-recirculated ice water. Some Florida and Texas guys use that set-up and think that it is quite good. However - with two Therminators and possible a hopback in front of them, gravity can only take me so far. May pick up a high-temp pump as well. Christmas is just two months away :mug:
 
I have the 20L version. Does anyone run a therminator with this unit?

If so...gravity or with a pump?
Do you have something in the kettle to help from picking up the trub to avoid gunk in the chiller?

I currently run an immersion chiller, but thinking of an upgrade.

Originally planned on using the therminator but stayed with the immersion chiller. Easier to use and less cleaning. Only advantage for me would have been the storage footprint. I use pellet hops, whirlpool and strain with a double screen strainer over the primary, which also aerates the wort.
 
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