Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

[FiveKaiBrewing]

my efficiency was at 80.72 %

now in reference to ridding yourself of those bogus cloth filters. i bought some stainless screen at ikea that you put on top of frying pans when using oil to prevent splash.. cut to size and slide it in.

there are cheaper ones but this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OLC8IM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Yambor44]

Part 4....Final... camera died at the end...sorry but I'm sure you get the point by now.

Excuse my constant throat clearing but the pollen is still kicking pretty good here. Also, don't be hatin on my gorgeous legs in my jean shorts...I am a Gator fan after all!!

 

[Yambor44]

my efficiency was at 80.72 %

now in reference to ridding yourself of those bogus cloth filters. i bought some stainless screen at ikea that you put on top of frying pans when using oil to prevent splash.. cut to size and slide it in.

there are cheaper ones but this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OLC8IM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Awesome idea. So it's thick enough it just stays put? You cut the "rim" off and it doesn't unwind or unravel?

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Excellent videos! Thank you Yambor, you cleared up a lot of questions I had about this setup.

So, what's your opinion of the system?

Also, don't be hatin on my gorgeous legs in my jean shorts..

Gorgeous legs???
Wait... So you're not the guy in the videos???

 

[FiveKaiBrewing]

Awesome idea. So it's thick enough it just stays put? You cut the "rim" off and it doesn't unwind or unravel?

I have to look but from what i understand there are ones that fit perfectly inside the 20L with the rim. you just cut off the handle. I just cut the rime off one i had in the house for now but i am going to source a perfect fit with rim when i have time.

 

[rico567]

I'd also like to ad my thanks to "Yambor44" for taking the time to record and post such extensive video coverage of the Braumeister in action. The more I see, the more I think that the 50l is the correct choice for me.

Now, apart from the fact that it's $1K more than the 20l, I have to decided how I'm actually going to use the thing. My basement has 7' ceilings, but I don't think that's enough, unless the unit is operated down near the floor, and I don't want to put a 240V outlet in the kitchen.

The real issue is having the clearance to remove that malt pipe. The easiest solution to this, whether from the standpoint of wiring the 240V or headroom, is to go to the garage.....but IL ain't FL in the Winter.

 

[FiveKaiBrewing]

Awesome idea. So it's thick enough it just stays put? You cut the "rim" off and it doesn't unwind or unravel?

Yambor,

if you lower the wire rack to a hair above the wheels on your table that should make it much more stable. you got to much leg with out horizontal support toward the bottom.

 

[FiveKaiBrewing]

I just bought a 50 plate chiller from keg cowboy and god damn can that thing chill. One pass via gravity with the water from my hose running through it got my wort down to 78 degrees in the amount of time it took to drain the wort out of the braumeister. I put cam lock fittings on all four inlets and outlets of the chiller and just plug my hose into the wort side. Once im done and put the hose on full blast. All the trub and nasty stuff flys out. Soak in sani clean or star san and im done. I put a stainless mesh coffee filter in the opening of the 5 gallon keg and just let the silicone hose drain into that and fill the keg. this keeps all those little grain and what left of the hops particles out of the fermenting corny.

 

[Yambor44]

Oops...I lied. There is one more video of the cleaning and whatnot. I creating now in imovie and then I will upload it to YouTube. Once done I will post it.

 

[Yambor44]

Yambor,

if you lower the wire rack to a hair above the wheels on your table that should make it much more stable. you got to much leg with out horizontal support toward the bottom.

Yeah, If I'm going to keep it thats what I will have to do. I was trying to keep it where I could store buckets under it. I think it's much more important to have a sturdier table than to worry about space saving huh? Or...maybe it won't matter? Six of one half a dozen of another....

 

[Yambor44]

I have to look but from what i understand there are ones that fit perfectly inside the 20L with the rim. you just cut off the handle. I just cut the rime off one i had in the house for now but i am going to source a perfect fit with rim when i have time.

Mine is 13 5/8" from edge to edge exactly. I can only find 13" or 15". I may try to order a couple of 13" and see how it rides out.

 

[Yambor44]

Excellent videos! Thank you Yambor, you cleared up a lot of questions I had about this setup.

So, what's your opinion of the system?

If it holds up, which it should, I think it is a winner. This was the least stressful brew day I have ever had. When you think of brewing on a new system for the very first time coupled with videoing, that's something I think!

 

[Yambor44]

Part 5, the real Finale'!!

 

[FiveKaiBrewing]

Mine is 13 5/8" from edge to edge exactly. I can only find 13" or 15". I may try to order a couple of 13" and see how it rides out.

If its to small you can always make your own silicon seal around the edge to make it fit more snug. i use rescue tape around the edge of one that was 9 3/4 inches to make it 10" exactly.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

If it holds up, which it should, I think it is a winner. This was the least stressful brew day I have ever had. When you think of brewing on a new system for the very first time coupled with videoing, that's something I think!

Yup, it is. Thank you again for taking the time. :rockin:

One question though...when mashing, doesn't it increase the rick of oxidation to have the hot wort continually falling around the edge of the grain bucket?

 

[wyzazz]

Yup, it is. Thank you again for taking the time. :rockin:

One question though...when mashing, doesn't it increase the rick of oxidation to have the hot wort continually falling around the edge of the grain bucket?

I think that HSA has really been dismissed as another "Homebrewing Boogeyman".

Yambor44, is there a Make/Model on those pumps? It would be interesting to see if they have those in a larger size, I like they way they break down so easily for cleaning!

 

[Native302]

Not for me. Personally I like my 10 gallon MLT and boil kettle.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

I think that HSA has really been dismissed as another "Homebrewing Boogeyman".

HSA?

 

[wyzazz]

HSA?

Hot Side Aeration, it's what you're calling Oxygenation. HSA is Aerating (Technically oxygenation can only be done when you use pure O2.) the wort while hot, like during mashing or boiling.

Edit: Wait, I misread... ...you are using the term Oxidation. That only happens after the beer has been fermented and oxygen/air has been introduced. During the boil any O2 that has been introduced in the mash is pretty well driven off. That's one of the reasons why we aerate/oxygenate before pitching yeast, the yeast need O2 to help build up strong cell walls in order to reproduce.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Thank you Wyzazz, but I think we're talking about 2 different things.

It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible, and without disturbing it much, because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling?

 

[hfk2]

Hey Yambor44, when's the full feature film coming to a theater near me. Greatly appreciate the effort you put into filming your first brew. I agree with you that my first brew day was the least stressful day I've ever had. My boil with the 20l was about the same as yours (with the insulating cover on), up until I added the chiller, then it could barely keep the temp up. How did yours do with the chiller in place. Did you pick up much trub/hops when to transferred to the fermentor. Does your pump run all during the boil? Mine doesn't. Does your yeast slurry kick pretty quick. I've always used a starter, but I like the simplicity of your approach.

 

[HokieBrewer]

It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible, and without disturbing it much, because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling?

Boiling drives off oxygen. You can't oxidize pre-fermented beer.

 

[wyzazz]

Warning, just a bit

Thank you Wyzazz, but I think we're talking about 2 different things.

It is (as far as I know) widely accepted that, after the boil the wort need to be cooled as fast as possible - This is the Widely Accepted way to go, but you can also do a "No Chill" batch.

and without disturbing it much - Only after fermentation occurs is disturbing the wort a big issue. After fermentation it's no longer wort but beer.

because if you introduce air to the hot wort there's a strong chance it will oxidize, instead of the air just stay in suspension. - Again, really only after fermentation is this an issue. You actually want to aerate/oxygenate your wort after it's cooled & before you pitch your yeast. IIRC we are aiming for 10PPM of O2 for an optimal fermentation. You can only get to around 8PPM without pure O2.

I don't know to which point it's true or not, as I've never brewed yet, but it seems to be the consensus here.
My question is, being that while mashing the wort is pretty hot, wouldn't we run the same risk as if we aerated it when hot after boiling? - Nope, the boil removes the O2 from the wort.

I hope some of this helps...

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Warning, just a bit



I hope some of this helps...

It does. Thanks again.

 

[FiveKaiBrewing]

i use pure o2 and a 2 micron stone to aerate my wort. i have no clue what ppm i get to on o2 concentration i just let it bubble a minute or two and the yeast likes it..

 

[rnarzisi]

Thanks for taking the time to document your brewing session. The bruameister looks like a very well designed and constructed machine. I especially like the compactness of the system, the footprint is roughly a 1/3 of my current system and it seems that there are less things to clean up.

I've three questions that weren't answered in your videos, or anywhere else on the internet best I could determine.

1) Is the pump involved when transferring the wort from the braumeister into the fermenter? In your video it looks like you simply used gravity to transfer the wort, is there a possibility of using one of the pumps if I wanted to pump into a tall conical for instance?

2) How did you attach your drain tube? Is it just friction? If so, then my guess is that a pump would end up pulling it off and you'd end up with a big mess.

3) Does it look like the existing drain cock can be removed and replaced with a ball valve and clover fitting? This would allow for the use of a pump when transferring the wort if gravity isn't feasible.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[hfk2]

marzisi, I think I can answer your questions. I have the 20l braumeister and I use a march pump to recirculate and transfer the wort to the fermenter. On pages 8 and 9 of this thread it shows how I set my system up. I used thick walled silicon tubing and clamped it to the spigot. The rest are quick connect fittings. The pump is hard plumbed into the bottom of the pot with stainless elbows. It would be very difficult to splice into this arrangement without making a mess of the clean installation Speidel has. The drain cock can be removed however it looks to be about a 1" fitting welded to the pot that the drain connects to. I think Yambor44 used reinforced tubing and used friction to fit it over the spigot. Hope this helps some.

 

[beefeater]

The pump is from Deutsche Vortex "BW 152 o/t"
http://www.en.deutsche-vortex.de/en/
It is intended to distribute heated water in households.

Here you can buy one for 93 Euros or approx. 130 US dollars.
http://www.haustechnik-express.de/product_info.php?products_id=783
(edit: this pump in the link has 1/2" plumbing on the housing. The Speidel is bigger, looks like about 20mm. The part # of the Speidel pump-housing is 101.101.350. The motor and rotor will be the same.

The pump is not involved in moving the wort out of the braumeister. That would involve some replumbing. Tight space on the 20 liter, don't know if there's room for a T on the 50..

Another way can be to lower a pipe into the "out hole" for the pump at the bottom of the unit and running a hose from that into another container, on the sprinciple of this recirculating device that a fellow norwegian user invented:
http://www.bryggeri.net/utstyr/brygging-med-speidel-braumeister!/500/

It's made from two 12mm (1/2" should be close enough) copper bends and pipe. The short piece is 12 cm and the long 43cm (for the 20l).
This thing works (recirkulates wort to the top of the malt-pipe which is rised during mash-out). I made one and used it a couple of times but haven't lately as the wort is clear without it and it is a bit tricky to get it in place with the malt-pipe in.
Anyhow it can lift wort from the bottom up over the edge so it should be fine for filling a container. Trub in the pump can become an issue, though.

 

[rnarzisi]

Thanks for the prompt replies.

 

[Yambor44]

Thanks for the prompt replies.

I think hfk2's method would be your best option to pump to a higher conical type fermenter. The pump was not involved with my method in the video. I simply slid a 3/8" ID braided hose over the spigot to get a better flow.

You can unscrew part of the spigot but part of it is welded into place as mentioned by hfk2.