Keep waiting and it will probably break the surface. Make sure; it gets enough water/sun, that you didnt pack the soil down too hard and its loose enough so the plant doesnt have to fight it, and that you have good drainage.
South Florida Hop Growing
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CourtHouseBrewing
Well-Known Member
Yep, Watering every other day.
Good drainage, the soil is compost and sandy.
Morning sun afternoon shade.
Day time temp is around 80oF this time of year.
So I wait.
Thanks.
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
Watch out for snails and slugs! They went crazy on my hops practically overnight about a week ago. I went to Home Depot and got some Diatomacious Earth and powdered up the first 12" of the hops and all around each plant and the bed. No more snails except the occasional 1 or 2 that realized they made an awful mistake. I have three hops that are passing the 10 foot mark already. Woohoo!
CourtHouseBrewing
Well-Known Member
Thanks I'll check.
kirkc8099
Member
Yeah, I can't make much sense of it... One of my Centennials planted just under 2 weeks ago is over a foot tall and starting to climb the trellis, while the other is very small yet.
One of my Cascades has several (sprouts), but is not growing very quickly at all. The other Cascade hasn't broken ground at all.
See pics below...
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
Here's some pics of my Cascades. I planted them a month ago. The taller one was a slow starter but has really taken off. I've even got a Brown Anole to guard them.
ForerunnerBrewer
Well-Known Member
CourtHouseBrewing said:Yep, Watering every other day.
Good drainage, the soil is compost and sandy.
Morning sun afternoon shade.
Day time temp is around 80oF this time of year.
So I wait.
Thanks.
Last year I had this happen. They are probably dead. There is good news though! Don't buy a rhizome... Seriously! You can get a half year start by getting a crown from Great Lakes Hops that already has growth on it for almost the same price as a rhizome.
Check it out:
1 of their 33 varieties- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cascade-Bee...057?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0f5d5b19
It looks like you've done your research and have well drained soil; but check the soil to make sure its not wet, I almost lost a magnum crown that I got from G.L.H. because the roots had too much water. It's in rehab now in my office where it is dry and warm!
I have 1/6 (cascade growing). I put them in the ground and wanted to see what happened. If I have to go out and water every other day, do too much on the soil, then its not worth it for me. If they grow great, but otherwise I won't put the time in.
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
My Centennial is over 14 feet now. Others are on their way. My Mt. Hood was stalled out for a while and didn't grow more than 4 inches and stayed there for a few weeks then all of a sudden it shot up like crazy. Sometimes they are just working on their root system so they might not be growing taller but what you can't see, the roots, might be going nuts underground. Most important thing for me is just checking the leaves for bad signs then treat it appropriately. i.e. I started having some curling of the leaves and slight burning and brittleness so I gave it some miracle grow so it has quick access to Nitrogen, Potassium and other plant loving nutrients. Fixed it right up. I use Mushroom compost as my main source of nutrients but sometimes a couple shots from the doctor is needed.
CourtHouseBrewing
Well-Known Member
I think the Cascade just broke ground after a couple of days of rain, so maybe they are not getting enough water.
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
Here they are on 4-24-2012. They broke ground approx March 5th, give or take a little for the different types. 
Kind of 
but I cant seem to find a solid answer.....Im sure you all have read here that its recommended to only let 2-4 bines grow and to keep cutting the new sprouts. The reason usually given is to promote root growth from the rhizome and to focus the plant on cone production. But what if you planted a hop crown(pretty good size)??? The root structure is surely way bigger than a rhizome but does that still not make a difference on the # of bines I should grow out?
but I cant seem to find a solid answer.....Im sure you all have read here that its recommended to only let 2-4 bines grow and to keep cutting the new sprouts. The reason usually given is to promote root growth from the rhizome and to focus the plant on cone production. But what if you planted a hop crown(pretty good size)??? The root structure is surely way bigger than a rhizome but does that still not make a difference on the # of bines I should grow out?
I got Cascade going now as well. Until it gets going its going to want a lot of water. Its getting to that point in the year when the heat and humidity start getting brutal so you may have to water anywhere from twice day to every other day depending on how hot it was and how often it rains. Just dont over water, its easier to see when a plant is wilting a little and is thirsty then stressed from too much water. Check out some of the cheap easy ways to make self watering containers or how to turn a water bottle into a drip irrigation system. They let the plant drink when it wants so you dont over or under water and you can just add the plants nutes to the reservoir.
shataway
Well-Known Member
shataway said:
My two cascades rhizomes have abot 16 inches of growth each. One of my centennials never came up and the other only made about two inches before stalling. Yesterday came home and found it broken off. O for 2 on centennials. RIP
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
I doubt it was broken off. I thought the same thing on some of mine but found that it was actually Cutworms and Slugs. Go get some Diatomaceous Earth NOT from a pool center, go to Home Depot and get a bag. Gets rid of snails, slugs , and cutworms. Go out at night with a flashlight at a couple different times and look on the underside of your leaves. Stick a half filled cup of beer with some salt in it by your plants. You will find out if there is a problem with my biggest enemy, snails and slugs. They are out a lot on the really humid nights. Good Luck!
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
Found this on another sight.......
Posted by Laura on Tue, Aug 2, 11 at 0:28
There's an awful lot of misinformation and conflicting info out there on DE, which I'd like to try and help clear up, because I hate to think of folk eating DE with pesticide (yes, some DE has a pesticide bait, such as the bag in the image halfway up the page).
First, there are not two, but three different categories or grades of DE:
(1) Codex or "fossil shell flour," which is the true food grade and is added to animal feeds as an anti-caking agent to to assist if flowability. If you're going to take DE orally -- and I offer no advice on the wisdom of this -- you want to make sure you see the word "Codex" on the label, which tells you it has been tested and meets certain criteria, including thresholds of safety on contaminants such as arsenic and lead.
(2) pool grade, which is high in crystalline silica (the bad stuff), and, as such, works great in pool filters. But it should never, ever be used as a pesticide or in any food applications.
(3) This is the tricky category: DE pesticides, which are variously labeled as "natural" pestides for gardens, pets, grain storage and for various types of insects. This is the type of DE you will likely find in the garden section of your local store, and which will be variously described on the bag labels as "insect killers" or "pesticides," and which will not contain the word "Codex" on the label. These types of DE may (or may not) be coated with pesticides. Perma-Guard, one of the better known brands of both Codex and pesticide DEs, explains it this way on their website: "The addition of Pyrethrins and Piperonyl butoxide is to irritate the bug, causing the bug to become active, allowing the DE to work more quickly." These two pesticide compounds are commonly used in lice shampoos and in sprays & fogs for bedbugs, mosquitoes, garden pests, etc. The only way to know if the DE at your local garden center is "coated" or "baited" is to read the label. And carefully. But even if they aren't coated, they are not Codex and are therefore not considered safe for human consumption.
I hate to think of folk acting on bad advice and then munching down on DE that is either bait-coated or contains higher levels of, say, arsenic and lead. A lot of people assume that, if it's not pool grade, then it must be the Codex food grade. But there is that 3rd category, from which a good bit of confusion and misinformation seems to generate. As with any thing you use -- whether it's for bugs or people -- it's really important to read the label and to understand what you are reading.
Posted by Laura on Tue, Aug 2, 11 at 0:28
There's an awful lot of misinformation and conflicting info out there on DE, which I'd like to try and help clear up, because I hate to think of folk eating DE with pesticide (yes, some DE has a pesticide bait, such as the bag in the image halfway up the page).
First, there are not two, but three different categories or grades of DE:
(1) Codex or "fossil shell flour," which is the true food grade and is added to animal feeds as an anti-caking agent to to assist if flowability. If you're going to take DE orally -- and I offer no advice on the wisdom of this -- you want to make sure you see the word "Codex" on the label, which tells you it has been tested and meets certain criteria, including thresholds of safety on contaminants such as arsenic and lead.
(2) pool grade, which is high in crystalline silica (the bad stuff), and, as such, works great in pool filters. But it should never, ever be used as a pesticide or in any food applications.
(3) This is the tricky category: DE pesticides, which are variously labeled as "natural" pestides for gardens, pets, grain storage and for various types of insects. This is the type of DE you will likely find in the garden section of your local store, and which will be variously described on the bag labels as "insect killers" or "pesticides," and which will not contain the word "Codex" on the label. These types of DE may (or may not) be coated with pesticides. Perma-Guard, one of the better known brands of both Codex and pesticide DEs, explains it this way on their website: "The addition of Pyrethrins and Piperonyl butoxide is to irritate the bug, causing the bug to become active, allowing the DE to work more quickly." These two pesticide compounds are commonly used in lice shampoos and in sprays & fogs for bedbugs, mosquitoes, garden pests, etc. The only way to know if the DE at your local garden center is "coated" or "baited" is to read the label. And carefully. But even if they aren't coated, they are not Codex and are therefore not considered safe for human consumption.
I hate to think of folk acting on bad advice and then munching down on DE that is either bait-coated or contains higher levels of, say, arsenic and lead. A lot of people assume that, if it's not pool grade, then it must be the Codex food grade. But there is that 3rd category, from which a good bit of confusion and misinformation seems to generate. As with any thing you use -- whether it's for bugs or people -- it's really important to read the label and to understand what you are reading.
whis121surfing
Well-Known Member
I got this.
shataway
Well-Known Member
whis121surfing said:
Thanks for the info on the diatomcious earth. I went with some snail slug Getta plus.
So I cant seem to find a thread describing whats going on.....I grew my hops up a trellis and now have been training it on my lattice fence(about the last 5 ft of bines). All the leaves on the trellis are fine and all the new growth looks good, its even flowering on all 4 bines. Now I cant seem to figure out why some of my leaves(about 2ft from new growth) are starting to get really dark, crinkled under, and papery feeling. Also on the new growth the leaves are light green with dark green around the edges. Anyone have any advice?
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
I found this on another thread. Don't know if it will help or not. http://5e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=t&id=289 If you scroll down you can see some pics and what the solution is.
The closest looking symptom is it needs a little phosphorus... that does make sense since it just started producing cones. I have some 3-5-3 tomato food....think this would be sufficient once every other week?
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
I guess it wouldn't hurt. You could apply it and then wait a couple of weeks and see what happens. I also found this link:
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/fg/fg79-e.pdf
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/fg/fg79-e.pdf
Good info. Makes me think its not phosphorus then. Back to the drawing board I guess.
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
My new leaves are also the same color as yours. Some of my newest ones are almost white. They're still growing though. I wonder if it isn't the heat. Mine have southern exposure with mostly afternoon sun. I also have snails eating mine, so I went out and got some slug and snail pellets that I'll be applying tonight.
shataway
Well-Known Member
shataway said:
Week 6 update
One cascade has a single bine about 53 inches. The other has three bines with about 84 inches of total growth. The lower leaves are darker in the main veins a light green on the remainder of the leaf. The upper leaves have a nice healthy green color.
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
84 inches. Wow! You must be doing something right. Mine are 2 months old and the longest bine is only about 3 feet high. What's your secret?
Bines starting to flood with these. If its going this early in the season think there is a chance of getting 2 yields this season?
StanJohnson
Well-Known Member
You got hops already....wow. All I've got are holes from the snails eating the leaves. Mine are still growing so I guess there's still hope.
