Soldering Stainless steel

[jimmayhugh]

I swaged the hole outward, fitted the tri-clover fitting into the swaged hole, and soldered.

I have a write-up at my website

 

[rekoob]

Did you put the fitting through the hole or butt it up against the kettle? I'm having a hard time finding a SS welder and thinking of just soldering it.

SS welder?

 

[CoalCracker]

Yea, some one to weld the Stainless.

 

[rekoob]

I would think anyone you find that welds for a living would be able to weld SS. I only say that because every welder I know can weld SS.

 

[Huaco]

I would think anyone you find that welds for a living would be able to weld SS. I only say that because every welder I know can weld SS.

NOT TRUE!

Ever seen pictures or worse yet, actual SS welded couplings on a Keggle from a guy that had no CLUE how to weld SS? N.A.S.T.Y!!!!!

 

[BlackNotch]

Found this vid on youtube today, I did a quick search and haven't seen a post on the Muggy Weld SSF-6. Has anyone tried this on a coupling or spud?

 

[P-J]

...
Found this vid on youtube today, I did a quick search and haven't seen a post on the Muggy Weld SSF-6. Has anyone tried this on a coupling or spud?

That works very well. However, that particular solder requires very high temp to use & apply properly.

Harris Stay-Brite #8 melts @ 430° and is also very strong in bonding.

 

[Bobby_M]

I would think anyone you find that welds for a living would be able to weld SS. I only say that because every welder I know can weld SS.

NOOOOOO. Very much no.

 

[BlackNotch]

That works very well. However, that particular solder requires very high temp to use & apply properly.

Harris Stay-Brite #8 melts @ 430° and is also very strong in bonding.

I have some Stay-Brite, but noticed the tensile strength of the SSF-6. I would think heating two stainless washers would take less time than a coupling, but they claim to be using propane and it seemed pretty quick. That stuff isnt cheap either, $69 for two 18" rods.

 

[ekjohns]

Found this vid on youtube today, I did a quick search and haven't seen a post on the Muggy Weld SSF-6. Has anyone tried this on a coupling or spud?

that stuff is crazy expensive

 

[fork]

I'd like to do this with a one inch half coupler on a keg for a heating element. What would you guys use to cut a hole that big. Im guessing it will be about an inch and a half. Using an inch and a half hole saw in a curved stainless keg sounds like it would go badly. I also don't want to buy an expensive greenlee punch set. Has anyone successfully used a big holesaw with a hand drill on an interrupted cut like this.

 

[adivito]

I did mine with a step bit, and ended up having to take the die grinder in after to open it up a little. For the element I really recommend using ****ym's welding spuds.

 

[ekjohns]

does anyone have a video or pictures if using the spud? Also where did you find a step bit that big?

 

[slakwhere]

forget the step bit. use a hole saw. much quicker and cheaper.

 

[ekjohns]

well I already have a hole that was made via a greenle punch so I could use a weldless. I would like to make it welded so it will need to be expanded to fit the spud and I imagine using a hole saw to enlarge a hole will be difficult.

 

[DustBow]

Not sure if there are any step bits that big, I used a punch - I belive it was 1-5/8"

would your current hole be too close in size to punch a bigger one?

 

[ekjohns]

A bigger punch would probably work. The problem is I am grad student on a budget! Dustbow do you still have the punch and could measure the diameter and that way I can check to see if it would work before I spend forever looking for a deal I can afford.

 

[slakwhere]

well I already have a hole that was made via a greenle punch so I could use a weldless. I would like to make it welded so it will need to be expanded to fit the spud and I imagine using a hole saw to enlarge a hole will be difficult.

does it have to be in that same spot? could you just solder in a coupler or half coupler and use that for something else? thermometer/sight glass/thermocouple/whirlpool port/herms coil/etc ?

 

[fork]

forget the step bit. use a hole saw. much quicker and cheaper.

Have you personally use a hole saw to drill a keg? Three things that are bad for hole saws are stainless, interrupted cuts (curved surfaces) and sheet metal. I'm just interested if anyone has done this without breaking their wrist or burning up the saw half way through.

 

[slakwhere]

i did my first set of holes with the step bit. seemed to burn them out, certain sizes in the bit would get too hot and get dull. you're basically drilling 8 holes to get to the size you need.

i did all my new HLT and BK electric stuff with 2 hole saws, one for the heating element and one for the 1/2" couplers. faster and easier than the step bit, no question. left the edge just a little rougher than the step bit, but i went and cleaned it up with a file or grinding stone and all is well.

 

[DustBow]

A bigger punch would probably work. The problem is I am grad student on a budget! Dustbow do you still have the punch and could measure the diameter and that way I can check to see if it would work before I spend forever looking for a deal I can afford.

I will check the exact size tonight - I know I went right off of Bobby's site and he lists 2 sizes for the 1" spud, I'm almost positive I ended up with the bigger size, 1-5/8 instead of 1-9/16. I had a really good week on Ebay a few months back and scored several Greenlee punches in useful sizes.

The small size would probably make for an easier solder job since the fit would be more snug, but I managed OK with the 1-5/8 hole.

I will confirm the size tonight, maybe we could work out a deal and I could ship it to you as long as you ship it back. You're not too far away

 

[BlackNotch]

I used the cheap Harbor Freight punch kit with good results. The hole was a tad smaller than the diameter of my welding spud, so I just took a step bit and drilled around the edge of the hole until it fit. The manual says its 1 1/4" but it makes a bigger hole than that. I was able to make two holes with this kit in two different kegs, but Im not sure how many uses you will get from a $20 kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

 

[P-J]

I used the cheap Harbor Freight punch kit with good results. The hole was a tad smaller than the diameter of my welding spud, so I just took a step bit and drilled around the edge of the hole until it fit. The manual says its 1 1/4" but it makes a bigger hole than that. I was able to make two holes with this kit in two different kegs, but Im not sure how many uses you will get from a $20 kit. http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

Harbor Freight punch sets are "Electrical Conduit Punches" & punch a hole for conduit fittings.

Here are the stated sizes and the actual hole size:

Die - Actual Hole
1/2" = 7/8"
3/4" = 1-3/32"
1" = 1-11/32"
1-1/4" = 1-11/16"

So, with that stated, be very careful.

P-J

 

[ekjohns]

Thanks PJ, the spud needs between 1 9/16" - 1 5/8". In other words the harbor freight ones are either too small (1-11/32") or too big ( 1-11/16")

 

[BlackNotch]

It may depend on where u get the spud, mine fit snug using the 1 11/16".

 

[ekjohns]

where did you get yours if you do not mind me asking

 

[P-J]

A dremel tool would allow you to fit the coupling in place in just a few minutes.

Also Silver Solder is your friend in this adventure. Kit @ HomeDepot

No welding required.

P-J

 

[BlackNotch]

where did you get yours if you do not mind me asking

I got mine from Amazon, I wanted to buy from Bobby, but he was out of 1/2" spuds and Amazon had both. The 1" spud fits a Camco ripple.

 

[DustBow]

My punch is 1-5/8

 

[fork]

Where did you get the punch 1-5/8 doesn't seem to be a common size

Edit oops i see.harbor frieght