Soldering a heating element mount - Hex vs. Coupling

[SmokingDog]

Going to be using a keggle. Bought an extra 1" full coupling to make a dimple tool. I have some pretty big impact sockets to use as the backer.

You dimpled into the kettle correct?

 

[epcgordy]

epcgordy, very nice work! The install looks nice and sturdy. How did you make the dimple? Did you just use a larger version of the classic DIY dimple tool?

Ajgeo, I made the tool described in the Soldering Stainless Steel thread. I used the same bolr/nut set-up, and just changed the tapered fitting and the larger receiver.

 

[epcgordy]

iijakii, I don't get to DFW too often, but if if do head that way, I'll look you up!

 

[epcgordy]

SmokingDog,

Yeah, I dimpled from the outside in. Mainly just because I preferred to do the soldering on the outside, where I could see what what the solder was doing as I was going.

One cool thing I discovered in making the tool was a way to keep the tapered piece straight on the bolt. I pressed a 1/2 in. CPVC to 1/2 in. NPT adapter fitting that I had into the tapered fitting. I used JB Weld to fill the space around it from the large end, then topped it off with a 1/2 in. stainless washer. In the CPVC pipe end, I pressed home a short piece of 1/2 in. copper pipe. It fits my 1/2 in bolt like a glove, and stays in alignment no problem. Maybe you can adapt something like that to keep your coupling straight on the bolt. Without something like that, it wants to wobble all over the place, making it pretty easy to mess up the kettle.

 

[SmokingDog]

Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?

 

[Bsquared]

epcgordy. What size hole did you make for the coupling? 1-1/4? I did the same thing regarding the dimpling tool, I got a 1"-1-1/4" SS weld reducer and a 2" Black steel coupler. But I have not made the hole in the kettle yet.

 

[epcgordy]

epcgordy. What size hole did you make for the coupling? 1-1/4? I did the same thing regarding the dimpling tool, I got a 1"-1-1/4" SS weld reducer and a 2" Black steel coupler. But I have not made the hole in the kettle yet.

I used a Greenlee punch, 1 1/4 in hole. It went through the Bayou Classic like butter. On a keggle, 1 1/4 might be a tad on the small side. Seemed like the dimple was pretty deep, had to move a pretty large area of the kettle wall. I'd recommend testing on piece of scrap if you can something. I found an old stainless double boiler insert at the local thrift store for a couple of bucks. Now it looks like a sieve from all the tests I did!

 

[epcgordy]

Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?

I get a shot or two posted in the next day or two.

 

[epcgordy]

Thanks for the tip. Pretty self explanatory, but got a pic of it?

Got a few pix last night. The first one shows the type of CPVC pipe to male pipe thread adapter that I pressed into the tapered stainless fitting. Then, I filled around it with JB Weld from the large end, and topped it off with a couple of stainless washers epoxied in. The next one shows the small end, with a short piece of 1/2 in. copper pipe pressed into the CPVC pipe end. It fit perfectly, I didn't even glue it. For the receiving end, I used a 2 in. ABS plastic pipe coupling, cut down in length. Topped that off with a very short piece of ABS pipe glued into a ABS pipe cap, with a hole drilled for the bolt.

 

[nhwrecker]

Epcgordy,

Those solder connections look good. Quick question, based on some of the other posts in this thread - the straight threads of the heating element fit the tapered threads of the coupling without an issue?

Thanks

So, I took some pictures when I got home last night. The second picture shows how the OD of the O-ring is slightly smaller than the ID of the stainless washer. When compressed between the box and kettle, the washer prevents the O-ring from deforming.

 

[epcgordy]

Epcgordy,

Those solder connections look good. Quick question, based on some of the other posts in this thread - the straight threads of the heating element fit the tapered threads of the coupling without an issue?

Thanks

My element didn't thread into the half coupling more than about one full turn, so I found a 1" NPS tap on Ebay. I used that to "chase" the threads, and open them up a little so the element would thread into it farther. Turns out that with the thickness of the O-ring and washer, and the back cover plate on the box, it really didn't need much more than I originally had. From all the reading I've done on here, it seems that its really a case-by-case issue, whether it fits well or not. But by chasing the threads, it eleminated any doubt.

 

[nhwrecker]

Thanks!

 

[CidahMastah]

I soldered the nut to my keggle ( which is plenty strong) and tonight I soldered the nut to m HLT for my HERMS kit. They seem great.

unfortunately the second nut on the HLT did not have the groove, but it holds water just fine.

I used 1/2 inch nuts for the magnesium anodes as well.

Just curious, how have the anodes been working for you? I get some hard water build up (calcium) on my element.

 

[Brickout]

So, I took some pictures when I got home last night. The second picture shows how the OD of the O-ring is slightly smaller than the ID of the stainless washer. When compressed between the box and kettle, the washer prevents the O-ring from deforming.

Are you using the stock rubber gasket in this setup? Or just the o-ring and washer?

Also, where did you get the washer? Did you find it locally, or did you have to order it?

Thanks!

 

[crane]

For my keggle I drilled a 1 1/4 inch hole with a step bit then dimpled with a SS 1-1/4 to 1 weld reducer. I didn't need anything extra to keep it aligned. As long as you center everything as you tighten it down it will pull through straight. My element was able to screw all the way into the half coupling so I didn't need to chase the threads at all.

 

[epcgordy]

Are you using the stock rubber gasket in this setup? Or just the o-ring and washer?

Also, where did you get the washer? Did you find it locally, or did you have to order it?

Thanks!

That part of the setup was "borrowed" directly from Kal, the parts are listed on his website, theelectricbrewery.com. I originally used the stock rubber gasket inside the box, between the hex of the element and the back of the box. Since then, I've re-thought that with the grounding in mind, and settled on using a .010 brass shim washer there instead. The brass is thin enough to act as a gasket, and conductive to allow a solid ground as well. I located the brass shim at McMaster, part no. 92678A292.

 

[Brickout]

Sounds good, thanks for the info.

 

[jsguitar]

For my keggle I drilled a 1 1/4 inch hole with a step bit then dimpled with a SS 1-1/4 to 1 weld reducer. I didn't need anything extra to keep it aligned. As long as you center everything as you tighten it down it will pull through straight. My element was able to screw all the way into the half coupling so I didn't need to chase the threads at all.



View attachment 63386

Crane, can you tell me the exact parts you used for your dimpling tool for the element? I see the welding reducer mentioned but wanted to be sure on everything else before I bought anything.

ETA: I think I have most of it now from reading a bunch of posts about this. Thanks!

 

[crane]

Crane, can tell me the exact parts you used for your dimpling tool for the element? I see the welding reducer mentioned but wanted to be sure on everything else before I bought anything.

ETA: I think I have most of it now from reading a bunch of posts about this. Thanks!

The welding reducer is here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20110613/45605K725L.GIF

Everything else I got from Lowes. I took in the welding reducer and picked up a large PVC slip coupling and a slip to 3/4" female pipe thread reducer. Other than that I got some washers and a large bolt. I used and extra 1/2" half coupling so I didn't have to screw the nut on as far. Make sure the PVC slip coupling is long enough. I started out with one half as long and the welding reducer bottomed out on it.

 

[jsguitar]

The welding reducer is here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20110613/45605K725L.GIF

Everything else I got from Lowes. I took in the welding reducer and picked up a large PVC slip coupling and a slip to 3/4" female pipe thread reducer. Other than that I got some washers and a large bolt. I used and extra 1/2" half coupling so I didn't have to screw the nut on as far. Make sure the PVC slip coupling is long enough. I started out with one half as long and the welding reducer bottomed out on it.

Ok, thanks. The PVC stuff was the part I was the least sure about.