Soil Prep

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LJvermonster

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Hi everyone! I searched and couldn't find anything simple. I grew my first hops [last] year and they were mediocre at best... Didn't get one flower. I need to dig up the hops and revamp the soil. Can anyone please help with specifics on how to treat my soil. I have fast draining soil.

What fertilizer/compost/topsoil/etc should i use? Any help would be appreciated! I thoroughly lack the green thumb!

Cheers!
 
I didn't get flowers my first year either. That's pretty normal for most hops. They need a year to get themselves rooted.

Did you cut the bine down to the nub at the end of the season? If not, I would do that pronto.

As far as soil, almost everyone swears by legit manure. In the interest of my yard not smelling like turds, I just use a generic topsoil and make sure to water it every day or so. I got a decent bloom my second season.
 
I didn't get flowers my first year either. That's pretty normal for most hops. They need a year to get themselves rooted.

Did you cut the bine down to the nub at the end of the season? If not, I would do that pronto.

As far as soil, almost everyone swears by legit manure. In the interest of my yard not smelling like turds, I just use a generic topsoil and make sure to water it every day or so. I got a decent bloom my second season.

So the question is, should I leave everything as is for now and just add manure over it (I'm not afraid of a little cow shirt, reminds me of home in Vermont).

Or should I dig up the root balls, add some new top soil/manure/fertilizer, then replant?
 
Last year I grew a centennial and a cascade in half whiskey barrels. The centennial rhizome was a beast with buds and roots all over and the cascade was more like a stick. I used the organic natures made potting soil (they also have a top soil) and a mix of worm castings to plant in. The I bought an organic vegetable fertilizer from home depot and every Sunday when I watered I put the fertilizer in the water. About July I switched to every other Sunday and my centennial produced 15oz of hops and my cascade gave me nothing. According to literature first year is not supposed to produce cones and pots produce less. Obviously I did something right.

This year I plan on digging up the rhizome and putting fresh worm castings and topping it off with some organic manure I bought at home depot. The smell is minimal. I will then do the same fertilizer treatments as I did last year for both plants. The worm castings are like crack and gives the plant lots of nutrients to start with which is one of the vital times it needs as much nutrients as it can get.
 
Last year I grew a centennial and a cascade in half whiskey barrels. The centennial rhizome was a beast with buds and roots all over and the cascade was more like a stick. I used the organic natures made potting soil (they also have a top soil) and a mix of worm castings to plant in. The I bought an organic vegetable fertilizer from home depot and every Sunday when I watered I put the fertilizer in the water. About July I switched to every other Sunday and my centennial produced 15oz of hops and my cascade gave me nothing. According to literature first year is not supposed to produce cones and pots produce less. Obviously I did something right.

This year I plan on digging up the rhizome and putting fresh worm castings and topping it off with some organic manure I bought at home depot. The smell is minimal. I will then do the same fertilizer treatments as I did last year for both plants. The worm castings are like crack and gives the plant lots of nutrients to start with which is one of the vital times it needs as much nutrients as it can get.

Thanks for the tip. Are you concerned at all with digging up your rooted rhizome? Is that going to set it back a year?
 
Thanks for the tip. Are you concerned at all with digging up your rooted rhizome? Is that going to set it back a year?

By dig it up I just mean pull the top dirt away to put the worm castings around the roots. I won't move it or break any of the roots. I just want the nutrients to be around the root for the spring.
 
So the question is, should I leave everything as is for now and just add manure over it (I'm not afraid of a little cow shirt, reminds me of home in Vermont).

Or should I dig up the root balls, add some new top soil/manure/fertilizer, then replant?

Yes. The roots should be left alone for the most part.
 
Mushroom compost, manure, topsoil in a three part mix and fertilize and water regularly. I got great results with this mix, mediocre results without it. I'll be replicating this in early spring when I prune the rhizomes. I'll remove the upper layer of soil, cut back extra rhizomes, then retill in this mix for some extra nutrients for the roots. I use vigoro 10-10-10 tomato plant fertilizer for everything to July 1, and try to use only high potassium fertilizers until the cones are well established. High nitrogen fertilizer after things begin to bud and flower will create a lot of angel wings and other funky growth out of cones.
 
If you want to be sure what to put on your hops... Ward labs does soil testing as well as water. Send them ~1/2 lb of dirt from your hop yard and ask for S5 complete +boron. Will cost you a whopping $22.25 I just got my tests back a few days ago. Looks like I'm low on nitrogen and high on pH. All I need is some ammonium sulfate@8g/sq ft and I'm golden. 22 bucks for peace of mind.
 
Mushroom compost, manure, topsoil in a three part mix and fertilize and water regularly. I got great results with this mix, mediocre results without it. I'll be replicating this in early spring when I prune the rhizomes. I'll remove the upper layer of soil, cut back extra rhizomes, then retill in this mix for some extra nutrients for the roots. I use vigoro 10-10-10 tomato plant fertilizer for everything to July 1, and try to use only high potassium fertilizers until the cones are well established. High nitrogen fertilizer after things begin to bud and flower will create a lot of angel wings and other funky growth out of cones.

Thanks for the straight forward recommendation! For your topsoil, do you just use what you dug your hole from? or do you buy top soil from a store?
 
Thanks for the straight forward recommendation! For your topsoil, do you just use what you dug your hole from? or do you buy top soil from a store?

I used the cheap 99c bag from menards. I mixed it all in with my regular soil when I planted. I didn't re-mix last year. This year I will till it in. My first year results were better than 2nd year results. It could have been soil, it could have been the rain. Maybe also a mild summer. I'm betting on soil, tho.
 
. . . High nitrogen fertilizer after things begin to bud and flower will create a lot of angel wings and other funky growth out of cones.

I've seen this mentioned a few times over the years but have never seen it in print. Do you have a source for this? Thanks in advance.
 
I've seen this mentioned a few times over the years but have never seen it in print. Do you have a source for this? Thanks in advance.

I have too, and only noticed this through my limited experience with growing. But, here's something from University of Vermont that states increased vegetative growth with nitrogen application after flowering.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...cwsLDg2bjU6AeDMug&sig2=QH31DxC_Ddf4SBF3Wfnxmg

It is very brief in the article, and spent some time with my good friend Google to try and dig up more info for you. As of yet, I've only found this. Without a doubt, though, if I apply my typical spring fertilizer after cones begin to develop, I get angel wings and sidearm growth through cones. This happens most predominantly on my Chinook plant and Zeus plant. I'm going to try and limit this as much as possible this year, and really focus more of the potassium fertilizer after the Solstice.

For me, it's more of feeling than science, but the UVM article helps confirm that as well.
 
I've seen both of those articles and neither actually states that excessive N increases the occurrence of angle wings on cock-hops? I was fortunate enough to speak with the head of the USDA breeding program in Corvallis back in the early 90's and he told me it was a trait that occurred in certain varieties more than others. It's actually interesting when looking at how each statement is worded as the UVM article more accurately states that too much N can increase "unwanted VEGETATIVE growth" and the second leaves this quantifier out:

"It is important to not apply N after flowering as this can lead to unwanted vegetative growth. "

vs.

"Too much Nitrogen late in the season can give you unwanted growth and can hinder the alpha acid content of the hops"

What both of these statements are getting at is that if Nitrogen is available in excess at the point when the plants should be transitioning into the reproductive stage, they will more likely be tricked into remaining 'vegetative' which will cause them to produce more leaves than cones (less cones = less oils & acids).

There are mechanisms in plants that dictate how and when they perform different growth functions at different stages of growth (I actually can't remember half of them from back in the Agronomy days at Ohio State) that many folks think is a response to their fertilization practices. Knowing the differences in the varieties you grow does certainly help dictate how each is managed during the growing season as this article very accurately describes:

http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/wp-content/uploads/jason-perrault-transcript.pdf
 
I've seen both of those articles and neither actually states that excessive N increases the occurrence of angle wings on cock-hops? I was fortunate enough to speak with the head of the USDA breeding program in Corvallis back in the early 90's and he told me it was a trait that occurred in certain varieties more than others. It's actually interesting when looking at how each statement is worded as the UVM article more accurately states that too much N can increase "unwanted VEGETATIVE growth" and the second leaves this quantifier out:

"It is important to not apply N after flowering as this can lead to unwanted vegetative growth. "

vs.

"Too much Nitrogen late in the season can give you unwanted growth and can hinder the alpha acid content of the hops"

What both of these statements are getting at is that if Nitrogen is available in excess at the point when the plants should be transitioning into the reproductive stage, they will more likely be tricked into remaining 'vegetative' which will cause them to produce more leaves than cones (less cones = less oils & acids).

There are mechanisms in plants that dictate how and when they perform different growth functions at different stages of growth (I actually can't remember half of them from back in the Agronomy days at Ohio State) that many folks think is a response to their fertilization practices. Knowing the differences in the varieties you grow does certainly help dictate how each is managed during the growing season as this article very accurately describes:

http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/wp-content/uploads/jason-perrault-transcript.pdf

I'll say with absolute certainty that you have far more knowledge and experience than I do. I just know that I got a ton of anomalies the last two years. All 4 plants ended up with them, zeus and chinook had the most. I will be stopping my N additions on the Solstice this year to help prevent this, especially since AA can be affected. Great find, B-HOPPY!
 
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