So, I can control my fermentation temps, now what?

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Woodbrews

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I recently completed a partial DIY system to control my fermentation temps. (I'll start a build thread later, but the system uses a Cool Zone cooling jacket, a submersible pump in a water cooler, and a STC-1000).

Up to now, I've been fermenting at ambient temperature in my basement, which ranges from 64 to 70 degrees.

With the new system, I'll be able to monitor and control temperatures much more closely.

With this new (for me) capability, my question is where do I find information on fermentation temperature profiles for various beer styles and yeasts?

I know that yeast packages specify a temperature range, but is there more detailed info out there on the ideal temps to maintain during phases of fermentation?

Thanks!
 
It depends on the yeast strain.

If you want to use a specific strain, do a search on this forum and elsewhere online for information on that yeast and you will find it. Generally though most yeasts produce a cleaner tasting beer when fermented on the cool side of their range while fermenting warmer produces more esters and fruity flavors.
 
Jayhem is correct.

Also, you can do diacetyl rests for high diacetyl ale steamed like wy1968, 1007, etc. or you can help the yeast ferment out by raising the temp towards the end of fermentation of you sometimes finish too high with a certain yeast (or if a certain yeast tends to floc out too early, raise the temp a few degrees and it won't do that!)
 
As an example, I did a quick search for Wyeast American Ale yeast...

http://www.wyeastlab.com/rw_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=5

That page lists information about that particular strain of yeast, including the appropriate temperature range to ferment at, which is 60-72F. That's how I go about it.

I usually set my temp controller toward the lower end of the range, which is 60 for their American Ale yeast strain.

I ferment at that temperature for about a week, then pull it out of the chamber (freezer) and let the fermenter rise to around 70 for another week or two... more, whatever.

This is information I've learned here on HBT. All very good information.
 
Thanks for the advice. I just made a batch of SMaSH ale from a Northern Brewer recipe using Danstar BRY-97 ale yeast (dry). I've searched on this yeast and haven't found any thread discussing it. Right now it is fermenting at room temperature (~ 68 degrees); I pitched the yeast on Monday morning at 1am (yep, I have to brew at night after the kids go to bed). So far, it is proving to be highly flocculant. Eventually I need to dry hop and transfer to a keg, so I'd like to figure out what temps would work best and whether to transfer to secondary. I just finished building the temp controller last night, so I haven't been monitoring this batch yet, but I certainly can going forward.

Fermenting 1.JPG
 
As others have stated it totally depends on the yeast strain. I use US 05 a lot and it tastes cleanest between 65 and 68. Around 60 gets me peachy/ pear esters and above 70 it's bananas. Fermentis says it works best between 59 and 71.6 which is true but mid 60s is the clean spot. In certain brews those flavors are desirable to me but I like most of my beers w/o the fruity.

Had to call a couple of pales ales I made with it Belgiums.


EDIT: Don't forget that fermentation is exothermic- so fermenting at 60 ambient your brew could be 5-10 degrees warmer which is typically why it is advised to ferment at the lower end of the range.


68 is on the high side but bringing temp down now might flocc your yeasts too early.
 
Well, really the most important thing about temp control is consistency throughout the fermentation process. Example:
You have an ambient 60°F room. During active ferm, temp will
Be 65-70, then as the yeast slow down, it will drop to closer to 60. This means the yeast will be less active to "clean up" the byproducts of fermentation.

When you control it, it'll be (ex) 65 the whole time, so at first your controller will cool, and later may have to heat to keep 65°... That's perfect and allows the yeast to finish the job of cleaning up much better than relying on ambient temp. You want a stable or rising ferm temp - never dropping (until you're ready to long term age etc). Relying on ambient guaruntees that the height of ferm temp will be higher than the end temp. So really, just setting it to anything in the yeast's proper range and leaving it there should give you much better results than you have gotten before. Cheers!
 
This is helpful feedback, thank you. I'm beginning to think that I should continue to let this batch ferment at room temperature and use the temp-controlled system for my next batch. That way I can control it from start to finish.
 
I would use it on this batch - just set it to whatever your ferm temp was to keep it high enough for the rest of the ferment!
 
It depends on the yeast strain.

If you want to use a specific strain, do a search on this forum and elsewhere online for information on that yeast and you will find it. Generally though most yeasts produce a cleaner tasting beer when fermented on the cool side of their range while fermenting warmer produces more esters and fruity flavors.

This. I usually just google search the yeast strain and read various forum posts that people have made discussing their experiences with that yeast.

Sure, I check the manufacturers website, but the ranges they give are very poor indicators of what the best temps for that particular yeast are. Fellow homebrewers give much more detailed and useful info when discussing their experiences.
 
What you can do with it (ales, lagers, cold crashing,etc.) will depend upon the operating range of your setup. What is that range?
 
I have not had a chance to do any testing, but the Cool-Zone cooling jacket, in theory, can cool to lagering temperatures. I'm using a 5-gallon cooler to keep my cooling water cold and assuming I replenish the ice daily, I suspect I can reliably hit temps in the 50's F. I set it last night to 67 F and it held that temp overnight without problem. The heater will rarely come into play with my ambient temperatures of 68 to 70 in my basement. To get to lagering temperatures, I suspect I'd have to move the cooling water and pump into my kegerator.
 
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