small batch Induction burner

[Wintry Mix]

I've been tossing around ideas to get my brewing off the kitchen stove and decided to try this induction burner .

It's said to handle 60 pounds.

I wonder if the temperature probe will work out.

Any here have any experience with this burner?

 

[Wintry Mix]

I've been tossing around ideas to get my brewing off the kitchen stove and decided to try this induction burner .

It's said to handle 60 pounds.

I wonder if the temperature probe will work out.

Any here have any experience with this burner?

Hello Wintry Mix,

I was just reading the manual for this induction burner while I wait for it to arrive. It's the only induction burner manual I've read that actually references it's use for brewing beer. The probe is wireless and can be used to maintain temperature. We'll see.

 

[IanMC]

Wow! Nice find. I've been looking for an induction burner with an actually-usable temperature probe for a long time. The only thing that seems to be lacking here is that the temperature set point is still determined by large discrete gaps. I don't know why it is so difficult for these companies to just give us 1 degree steps... it's literally a variable in an algorithm. Why must it be in quantized 5 or 10 degree steps? That said, even 5* steps in the critical 140-160* range should get the job done, even if it's not "ideal".

I'm still searching for the white whale of homebrewing induction technology: an all-stainless chassis, separable and calibrate-able temp probe, 1* setpoint step model. This gets pretty close, though! Please keep us informed on how it works out.

 

[IanMC]

Any updates on this? I'd love to hear how it's worked out!

 

[Wintry Mix]

Any updates on this? I'd love to hear how it's worked out!

So far I’ve only brewed a 2.5 gallon batch (Munich Helles from the Brulosophy site) with the new burner.

I didn’t use the temperature probe since I had enough new things going on. I’m just going from 1.25 gallon batches to 2.5 - 3 gallons and going BIAB.

The burner works better than my old kitchen stove. The couple stats I thought to write down. 60° to 160° in 36 minutes (over shot my target) and 160° to boil 25 minutes.

The 12” diameter burner fits perfect my 12” kettle.

I’m formulating plans to utilize the probe. The frustrating thing about bigger batches is I have to wait longer between batches.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

60° to 160° in 36 minutes (over shot my target) and 160° to boil 25 minutes.

With induction cooktops, I've seen home brewers wrap the kettle in insulation (like reflectix) and cover/insulate the lid to speed up heating (or to retain heat during the mash).

 

[IanMC]

So far I’ve only brewed a 2.5 gallon batch (Munich Helles from the Brulosophy site) with the new burner.

I didn’t use the temperature probe since I had enough new things going on. I’m just going from 1.25 gallon batches to 2.5 - 3 gallons and going BIAB.

The burner works better than my old kitchen stove. The couple stats I thought to write down. 60° to 160° in 36 minutes (over shot my target) and 160° to boil 25 minutes.

The 12” diameter burner fits perfect my 12” kettle.

I’m formulating plans to utilize the probe. The frustrating thing about bigger batches is I have to wait longer between batches.

Thanks for the details. The temperature ramp rate and burner diameter sound very promising. I'm excited to hear how the probe works out, when you have a chance. Can you speak about the build quality? I'm a little concerned about the 60 pound limit, as I fear I'd be bumping up against that most of the time.

 

[Wintry Mix]

With induction cooktops, I've seen home brewers wrap the kettle in insulation (like reflectix) and cover/insulate the lid to speed up heating (or to retain heat during the mash).

Reflectix is on my list.

 

[Wintry Mix]

Thanks for the details. The temperature ramp rate and burner diameter sound very promising. I'm excited to hear how the probe works out, when you have a chance. Can you speak about the build quality? I'm a little concerned about the 60 pound limit, as I fear I'd be bumping up against that most of the time.

The quality seems ok but of course time will tell. So far I'm happy with it. I considered the Anvil all in one but wanted the burner because I have other uses for it and like that it will be used for more than brewing,

 

[Cottonmouth]

How about mashing with a smaller volume of water to reduce weight on the burner and adding it back in the fermenter with a top off?

 

[IanMC]

How about mashing with a smaller volume of water to reduce weight on the burner and adding it back in the fermenter with a top off?

Sure, or if the removal of the grain + absorbed water is enough to get under the 60lb limit, then you can just top up after mashing. There are definitely ways to make it work, but it would be great if we could just do a full volume mash in and forget about it.

 

[kestrelbrewing]

I have an induction burner I bought for other purposes and I'm thinking of trying to use it for brewing. It's rated around the same weight range as yours with a slightly larger diameter heating area and I was thinking I might build something that put the burner on springs and pressed it up to contact the bottom of the kettle with the kettle being supported on a frame of some sort. Basically wondering if the weight limit is related to the heating capacity or the ability of the unit to actually hold that amount of weight. Still in the pipe dream/"shhhhhh … the wife will not like this idea" phase.

 

[IanMC]

I have an induction burner I bought for other purposes and I'm thinking of trying to use it for brewing. It's rated around the same weight range as yours with a slightly larger diameter heating area and I was thinking I might build something that put the burner on springs and pressed it up to contact the bottom of the kettle with the kettle being supported on a frame of some sort. Basically wondering if the weight limit is related to the heating capacity or the ability of the unit to actually hold that amount of weight. Still in the pipe dream/"shhhhhh … the wife will not like this idea" phase.

It's definitely related to the chassis strength. There are a number of examples on here of people who have built rigs like you're suggesting, including at least one that also uses springs. I built a wooden platform for my kettle, and have placed the induction burner on a screw jack that I use to gently raise it up to be pressing against the bottom of the kettle without actually taking the weight. It works great, but I'd love to ditch the whole setup and just have it freely on the burner, if I had one that could hold the weight. Go for it!

 

[Wintry Mix]

I have an induction burner I bought for other purposes and I'm thinking of trying to use it for brewing. It's rated around the same weight range as yours with a slightly larger diameter heating area and I was thinking I might build something that put the burner on springs and pressed it up to contact the bottom of the kettle with the kettle being supported on a frame of some sort. Basically wondering if the weight limit is related to the heating capacity or the ability of the unit to actually hold that amount of weight. Still in the pipe dream/"shhhhhh … the wife will not like this idea" phase.

I believe the weight limit is just about physical support. Someone here did something similar to what you're thinking. Support the weight of the kettle and bring the burner up to it. The 60# limit is fine for my small batches.

 

[IanMC]

I believe the weight limit is just about physical support. Someone here did something similar to what you're thinking. Support the weight of the kettle and bring the burner up to it. The 60# limit is fine for my small batches.

 

[IanMC]

Just took another look at the manual for the Max Burton #6600 and saw this interesting part:

PROGRAM COOKING MODE
This mode allows you to program up to 3 cooking time and temperature zones to create different stages of cooking. You can program all 3 zones or just one. It may be used in slow cooking, sous vide, beer brewing and much more; and can be used with or without the temperature probe. Example: Zone #1 set at 300°F for 60 minutes; Zone #2 set at 225°F for 75 minutes; Zone #3 set at 100°F for 60 minutes

I'm a bit confused about what they mean by "zone" here. Are they actually discrete physical heating zones, or is this just being used as a synonym for "step", as in steps of the cooking program?
If it is the latter, then this is amazing, because it means we could even do step mashes, or go automatically from mash to boiling.

 

[kestrelbrewing]

That exceeds my vision considerably. I am humbled. Good to know it can be done though! No more trips to the hardware store for propane and with the solar system we installed recently I can now claim that my brewing process is zero emission. Not that it matters.

 

[kestrelbrewing]

Just took another look at the manual for the Max Burton #6600 and saw this interesting part:


I'm a bit confused about what they mean by "zone" here. Are they actually discrete physical heating zones, or is this just being used as a synonym for "step", as in steps of the cooking program?
If it is the latter, then this is amazing, because it means we could even do step mashes, or go automatically from mash to boiling.

I think they mean zones in the sense of times as in heat to 126 and hold for 20 minutes would be zone one, heat to 155 and hold for 60 minutes would be zone 2, and heat to 172 and hold for 10 minutes would be zone 3.

It is confusing, stages would be a better nomenclature.

 

[IanMC]

I think they mean zones in the sense of times as in heat to 126 and hold for 20 minutes would be zone one, heat to 155 and hold for 60 minutes would be zone 2, and heat to 172 and hold for 10 minutes would be zone 3.

It is confusing, stages would be a better nomenclature.

That would be great! Wintry Mix, sorry to keep asking things of you, but is there any chance you could test this and confirm for us?

Thanks!

 

[Wintry Mix]

That would be great! Wintry Mix, sorry to keep asking things of you, but is there any chance you could test this and confirm for us?

Thanks!

I wonder if the probe would work if it were inserted in a thermowell. I've been thinking of incorporating the probe in a recirculation rig or installing a thermowell in the kettle Instead of the thermometer.

I'll be running some tests with the probe hopefully this afternoon.

Would like to have better than 10° increments from 100° to 200°.

 

[Wintry Mix]

Ran a quick test with 3 quarts of water in a pan.

Unless I’m missing something about how its programmed it doesn’t get to temperature and then start timing. A “zone’s” time includes the time it takes to reach the programmed temperature. It will move on to the next “zone” even if the programmed temperature of the previous zone hasn’t been reached

It will hold the temperature for what’s left of the “zone’s” programmed time if time remains.

 

[IanMC]

That's unfortunate... it probably works out alright with a small pot, but not when you're trying to bring 5-10 gallons of water to a boil, like we are.

As for your question about the thermowell, I don't see why it wouldn't work, and that would certainly be the way I'd be planning on using it. If you're concerned about not getting an accurate reading through the thermowell, you could fill it with some thermal paste to help with heat transfer.

 

[Wintry Mix]

That's unfortunate... it probably works out alright with a small pot, but not when you're trying to bring 5-10 gallons of water to a boil, like we are.

As for your question about the thermowell, I don't see why it wouldn't work, and that would certainly be the way I'd be planning on using it. If you're concerned about not getting an accurate reading through the thermowell, you could fill it with some thermal paste to help with heat transfer.

Thermal paste, good idea!

Is that a thermometer probe sticking in the bottom of you kettle? Do you recirculate with your setup?

 

[IanMC]

Thermal paste, good idea!

Is that a thermometer probe sticking in the bottom of you kettle? Do you recirculate with your setup?

Yes, I recirculate with a Riptide pump back to the top of the grain bed.

 

[sibelman]

Maybe the "zone" timing will work if you add in the estimated time needed to raise the temp for each step.

I wonder if the probe will help with maintaining a sufficiently (but not excessively) vigorous boil?

 

[Wintry Mix]

Maybe the "zone" timing will work if you add in the estimated time needed to raise the temp for each step.

I wonder if the probe will help with maintaining a sufficiently (but not excessively) vigorous boil?

That's what I thought. Once you.re comfortable with estimating the ramp up time.

 

[user 272106]

+1 for reflectix or a similar product. I started on a crappy induction burner from home hardware (Canada) for 2.5 gallon batches before I moved to 5g. It got to a boil, but was a very soft boil. I never measured times to mash, boil, etc., but saw a very noticeable improvement in the activity of the boil (and noticably reduced volume after 1 hour) after carefully wrapping my be kettle with it. Measure, cut, and wrap tight for best results.

Good luck.

 

[Dancy]

I
I have since added to the top portion. I used a foil type of tape that can be used with the reflected to assemble it and finish the edges.