Sizing my first brew kettle

[mmonacel]

I've read a number of the pros / cons about brew kettles and sizes. I'll spare everyone the SS vs. AL debate. My concern is more with the specific size. I figure I'll be doing 5 gal. batches for some time. I don't expect to do 10 gal. batches as that is a SIGNIFICANT amount of beer - although reading this board, it sounds inevitable... My guess is that if I go to 10 gal. batches I'll just make a keggle.

In the meantime, for 5 gal batches I'm debating between getting an 8 gallon kettle vs. the 10 gallon one. More specifically I'm looking at the Northern Brewer MegaPots. I don't want to be too concerned about boilover and my plan (eventually) is to make big / high gravity beers so I'm guessing full boils are my friend here. Is there sufficient head room with an 8 gallon to minimize boil over concerns? Does a 10 gal really buy me anything more than some comfort for boilover or does it allow me to expand somehow to 10 gal batches easier? I'm looking for the most bang for my buck here with expandability / usability but also looking to have a non-stressed out Brew Day.

Thanks!,
Mike

 

[jppostKW]

Both will work well Although if you plan on doing big beers and long boils the 10 gallon will suit you better. I brewed quite a few AG batches in a 7 gallon turkey fryer pot a spray bottle with water is your friend!!! Recently upgraded to a keggle. You can still almost have a boil over with it

 

[dvdfnzwbr]

I do five gallon brews also and I went with the 8 gallon brew pot. I am happy that I did. 1.) It costs less than a 10 gallon pot. 2.) I mash in it, which allows me to step up mash temperatures on the stove top for different conversion rests, and it fits into my heated oven for 155 degree rests. 3.) Its easier to clean after use. 4.) Its smaller for storage and lighter weight. 5.) A ten gallon pot will only step you up for 7 gallon brews, which is an odd number. You would need a 13 gallon pot to make 10 gallon brews 6.) I can fill the pot to one inch from the top with wort for the boil. Yes I said one inch. The trick is when the wort starts to reach boiling point and the foam begins to build on the surface, turn down the heat very low and stir the wort into a rapid whirl pool. Then use the concave side of your stirring spoon to direct the wort surface and foam into the eye of the whirlpool which kills it. This takes 3-5 minutes. Gradually turn up heat, and when the eye releases some boiling bubbles, it sucks the foam under the water level and decreases it more. When foam decreases and loses its frothiness, use your spoon to stop the whirlpool, and then gradually turn up the heat to reach boiling. If foam builds up again lower heat and stir, but if its not reacting to increased heat let the wort go into a rolling boil. This takes practice, and you may not do it without a spill your first time, but works very well.

 

[gerbache]

The other simple way to not worry about boilovers is to use a few drops of foam control before you start the boil. The stuff is pretty amazing, especially the way it's even saved me from boilovers using my flask for starters, which would go off like a volcano if you weren't careful before.

 

[dvdfnzwbr]

No added chemicals for me. I brew and practice by The Reinheitsgebot (literally "purity order"), sometimes called the "German Beer Purity Law" to which the only allowed ingredients of beer are water, hops, barley-malt, and yeast.

 

[EricCSU]

No added chemicals for me. I brew and practice by The Reinheitsgebot (literally "purity order"), sometimes called the "German Beer Purity Law" to which the only allowed ingredients of beer are water, hops, barley-malt, and yeast.

Just curious, but how do you carbonate your beers?

Eric

 

[dvdfnzwbr]

I don't use sugar to carbonate. I reserve origional wort before filling up the fermenter. 4 pints from a five gallon batch. Then I pressure can (autoclave) the pint mason jars shut in a pressure cooker. Place on shelf until I bottle.

 

[mmonacel]

Thanks guys. Good points and both are compelling. Not sure what I'll do just yet, but as it seems both directions certainly have their pros and cons.

 

[goodgodilovebeer]

8 gallon works great as long as you don't go do some errands before the break material shows up.

 

[Ragutis]

No added chemicals for me. I brew and practice by The Reinheitsgebot (literally "purity order"), sometimes called the "German Beer Purity Law" to which the only allowed ingredients of beer are water, hops, barley-malt, and yeast.

I practice Swineheitsgebot. I don't put anything in my beer that a pig wouldn't eat.

Oh and go ahead and build a keggle so you can move up to 10 gallon batches eventually.

 

[maida7]

I have an 8 gallon pot and make 5.5 gallon batches. This is the perfect size pot for me. I almost never have boil overs. I don't think you would gain anything from getting a 10 gallon pot.

However, consider adding a spigot to transfer the wort to the fermenter. Also a thermometer is quite nice. Mine also has a false bottom that screens out some of the trub and hops debris when I drain the pot out the spigot into my fermeneter. I don't think it's absolutely necessary but it does keep the spigot from getting clogged.

Lastly, if your doing full boils you will need a chiller. Don't get a pot this size without also getting a chiller that will fit in it.

 

[maida7]

Hey I just remembered. One advantage that the 10 gallon has over the 8 is you could do brew in a bag style AG brewing in a 10 gallon pot to make 5 gallon batches.