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Single vessel ebiab w no pump

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I EBIAB and never had a scorching issue.I use a 5500w element with a false bottom over it with a wilserbrewer in a basket.Im noticing a big temp difference from the pid(outside the mash) to the thermometer(inside the mash).I just ordered a cheap pump from china to keep the wort moving.All my beers have been good but it is the only questionable part of my system and is cheap and easy,so why not.I keep the element on while mashing but brew indoors.Uninsulated cover off,low rolling boil pid set at 75% Heres the pump I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reliable-0-...298645?hash=item27c778ab15:g:K08AAOxyx0JTfuIW
 
My experience has been that if you don't recirculate then you should insulate and let it ride. I've been struggling with inconsistent temps up until recently when I started to recirculate the wort under my ss mesh basket using a whirlpool port at the same time as recirculating to the top of the grain bed. I have also tried recirculating through a voile bag with not much success. I do this using a t-type 3-way valve on the whirlpool port. My temps now stay rock solid whereas before with just recirculating to the top it would overshoot because heat would build up under the basket before being registered by the sensor. I tried one time not recirculating at all and temps were drastically different from top to bottom. Heat just doesn't transfer through the grain bed. I have never had scorching with my element, 5500 watt ss.

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That's what I've been thinking insulate let it ride will probably have to mount my panel inside or carry the mash in
 
By the way that is a slick setup and a very good answer thank you. People haven't had a dreamy result of scenes with just simple recirculation
 
I've been struggling with inconsistent temps up until recently when I started to recirculate the wort under my ss mesh basket using a whirlpool port at the same time as recirculating to the top of the grain bed.

Did you have these issues even with the RTD on the pump suction?
 
Did you have these issues even with the RTD on the pump suction?

Yes, but the difference in temp wasn't a big deal, my ocd is though lol. I'd see 2 degree difference on the outer parts of the mash, center never really fluctuated. Now I have not seen more than 1/2 degree anywhere in mash at any time during mash. Only have 2 brews on the new setup, one oktoberfest 1.056 and an IPA at 1.067. I used a voile bag on the IPA and couldn't run pump fully open. The mesh basket I ran pump wide open. I crush at 0.040, going to try 0.050 for fun based on another thread here.

I think the temp difference I was seeing was caused by the lack of wort movement under the basket. With a side pick up it was pulling the cooler wort from the side while the element continued to heat then overshoot would happen. Now the PID temperature stays within 1 degree and mash temperature probe in the middle of the mash stays within 1/2 a degree.
 
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Seriously, you can have a cheap P-38I 12V pump for $20 off Ebay that will be more than adequate for eBIAB...your wasting your time worrying about insulation and other things.
 
Seems just slapping a pump on is no guarantee of anything...im now thinking single vessel ebiab with rim and boil by heat stick....ill have 220 and pid anyway just need to add rim tube and smaller element.....more likely will just slap jacket on kettle and brew inside....not much of a waste of time when compared with farting around with pump etc....trying to get temps right dont you think
 
I do this using a t-type 3-way valve on the whirlpool port. My temps now stay rock solid whereas before with just recirculating to the top it would overshoot because heat would build up under the basket before being registered by the sensor.

So you are pumping to both the re-circulation port and the top at the same time?
 
That's what it sounds like to me. My idea why not buy a very long tube and stick it deep in the mash so it really keeps the grain bed moving. That way you can open up the pump a little. None of this seems easier than a blanket once again
 
So you are pumping to both the re-circulation port and the top at the same time?

The 3-way valve splits the wort to the whirlpool port and to the port in the lid to the cip ball at the top of the mash. The split is pretty even surprisingly. This is working really well for me so far. I can divert flow to whirlpool only for cooling, to cip spray ball only for cleaning, and to both for mashing. I'd like to make the cip ball adjustable so I can put it right on top of the mash.

Agreed that insulation is by far the easiest way to go. However building my system has been a lot of fun and really enjoy the tinkering. This is way over the top considering biab is supposed to be simple ha.
 
The 3-way valve splits the wort to the whirlpool port and to the port in the lid to the cip ball at the top of the mash. The split is pretty even surprisingly. This is working really well for me so far. I can divert flow to whirlpool only for cooling, to cip spray ball only for cleaning, and to both for mashing. I'd like to make the cip ball adjustable so I can put it right on top of the mash.

Agreed that insulation is by far the easiest way to go. However building my system has been a lot of fun and really enjoy the tinkering. This is way over the top considering biab is supposed to be simple ha.

Super sweet system..love the 3 way and switching them for different reasons. I wonder what would happen if you mounted the ball deep in the middle of it. You kind of prove really that the mash is hard to move through the bag. All the more reason a good stir I think is the answer
 
Super sweet system..love the 3 way and switching them for different reasons. I wonder what would happen if you mounted the ball deep in the middle of it. You kind of prove really that the mash is hard to move through the bag. All the more reason a good stir I think is the answer

I definitely want to try the cip ball in the middle of the mash. Wort will flow through a bag, just not full blast on the pump. I'm convinced even temps are dependent on how fast you can recirculate the wort.
 
Yeah thanks for sharing all this for us....so speed and temp control are key .... so good to know..i guess a rim tube same problem still needs to go through bag. You know with all these clever systems it must be the bag not where or how the water comes into it.


Thank you everyone who helped me so much. I'm almost certain I am going to brew inside insulate keep even temp then just boil as I've always done
 
I was thinking of building my own single vessel system with a pump for the mash. The key I think is having a port in the lid. I'm shocked no one offers this that I've seen. I was going to use a SS sparge tube to recirculate the wort by sticking the tube into the mash bed. I'm sure I could make this on my own but I'd rather see it as an option.
 
Yeah I think everybody ports into the top or the lid somehow.... I think the way to go is heat and insulate I'm sure of it..... this dream of the automated system is just not there yet without some struggles it seems based on others posts. I love that I have never added heat to a mash. I think the bag is the issue not how water is pumped into it. Anyhow i like avoiding extra stuff keeping it simple and near perfect also easy clean up and also must be inside so insulate is easy


When i get element and pid i will try outside with pid no pump and stir every 20 min....i think that should work but i hate hot spots....i will post when i am up and running
 
He stick from Bobby at brew hardware came today. And it's nicer than I could have imagined it. It's really well built and ready to go.thank you iijakii and everyone else for the advice. I brewed once outside with propane strugled with temps and mash and hot spots when i gently added heat. Didnt feel precise to me like the stove. So am goung to sell blichmann burner to help pay for heat stick. Will definitely have electrician wire 220 inside...will heat to strike insulate and mash. Hope to jump to 15 gallons right away but will need to buy 15 gallon corny that's my little plan. I think the heat stick is up to the challenge if I go to no chilling will not have to worry about chilling inside but there is a drain in the laundry room. Thanks again
 

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