Single Vessel, All Electric, NS, NC Brewery

[ScubaSteve]

Okay, I realize I can't talk about something and not show pics SO here's some eye candy:

 

[ScubaSteve]

And here's a few more, you're looking at the rims chamber (I plan to make the middle section a sightglass), an awesome water filter (has a petcock drain on underside for easy drainage), and an inline hopback that will mate directly with the Chillzilla:

 

[ScubaSteve]

So, you can refer to the sketchup models and see where I'm going with this. Something to note, is that this thing weighs 36 lbs! That steel is frickin' heavy, I'm kind of worried now about supporting it. I have some industrial triclover pipe straps, but even they might not be enough. I'm thinking about making a wood crossmember behind the diamond plate as a support. This stand is going to have to undergo some serious mods to hold this kind of weight.....

 

[BrewBeemer]

Oh those pictures gave me a big woodie.
http://www.santacruzwoodies.com/wharf/img0004.htm

 

[wyzazz]

Very cool!

 

[GreenMonti]

Nice parts. That's gonna be easy to clean. Sweet.

 

[beerocd]

Dude, I think you win for attachment bling. Other ppl have the killer stand or the killer blingman's - you are the accessory king.

 

[ScubaSteve]

I never thought about it that way....thanks!

Even though it's a pretty simple wood stand, I think that it too shall be blingin'....just got done cutting and adding the diamond plate. I scavenged it from my old rig, so it was "free". I will post pics when I get the fold out tables on; I picked up all the stuff yesterday. Cedar and diamond plate actually look good together...who knew

I learned this weekend that fitting everything inside a 2' cube is going to be a challenge. I almost scrapped the stand! I'll be trying to get a 3-MD-HC pump, a Chillzilla CFC, a full 12" water filter, and a whole mess of triclover fittings in there.....it'll work, but it's going to be tight.

In addition to the plumbing, the electrical will take up some space. What size box do you guys think I'll need for 2 PID's, relays for 2 5500w elements, and 2 extra 120v receptacles?

 

[willynilly]

12 x 12 x 6 would be nice

 

[ScubaSteve]

I did some sizing up, and it's gonna be tight. I think I'll have the PID's and pump switch go thru the front panel, and then have their wires go to the box. I plan on using some of those wire wraps to keep things neat. Really all that will be in the box is the relays, 2 independently switched 220v receptacles, and 2 independently switched 120v receptacles. None of this should be visible from the front.

Think I can fit that stuff in a 10 x 7 x 5? I just think a 12 x 12 box is going to take up some serious space. I wonder how it would work if I put it UNDER the upper or lower deck?

 

[ScubaSteve]

So here's some more pics, some things have changed from my sketch....mainly the valve configuration. There was no way I could support all that weight by sticking it on the front of the rig. The rims will go in the same place. The large valve at the pump inlet will remain open 99% of the time, the smaller secondary valve is key because it'll be able the lowest point in the system. Everything should drain bone dry in this rig...still thinking about how to drain the last bit out of the upright RIMS chamber. I've also gotten the diamond plate on everywhere except the front panel, which won't go on until the end.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Here's another shot of the valves, and I also got the doors on. I have yet to put the diamond plate on the doors because i'm trying to think of an easy way to bend the edge over for a custom fit.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Here's the tricked out part that I'm really proud of. It took me forever to fit the pneumatic door closers on without taking up precious space inside the rig. They are too long, and the doors are short. But, since the doors are short they can support a fair amount of weight because the load is closer to the rig. If this system fails, I can always replace a plank or two, which is the beauty of using wood as a "sculpture medium"

 

[ScubaSteve]

Here's a vid of the doors closing. Kinda dark, I know, but SWMBO only leaves me alone after the kids go to bed I had to start it off then grab the camera quickly...it's not so awkward in actual use.

 

[wyzazz]

Looking good man! I wasn't too sure about the Cedar Stand at first but I really dig it now!

 

[OEHokie]

I have also been toying with the idea of making THIS rig for 5-10 gallon batches and run it off of 220v, then making an ultraportable single vessel unit that will do 2.5-4 gal batches on any 110v outlet. :rockin:

(Still reading through the thread) Have you put any more thought into this... Ideally I'd like to make a brew rig that will do 1.5-5 gallon batches off of 110V (possibly/probably off of two 110V on different breakers). My goal would be to optimize recipes by doing variations... so Month A I'd brew four 1.5-2 gallon batches and Month B would brew a 5 gallon batch of whatever "won".

//back to reading

 

[OEHokie]

Originally it sounded like you were going to be draining from the bottom, but from recent pictures it looks like you're going for side drainage, as low as possible. Is that correct? Your sketchup models from a page or two ago only show the outside... could you show some sketches of the arrangment inside? I'd like some... err... inspriation

I think I will have two 1500-2000W elements (off two different circuits in my apartment), the drain outlet (probably in the side as low as possible), the temp sensor (no idea where this is going to go) and maybe a sightglass.

This is a basic question... but what are sight glasses used for? Do they have a function other than bling? (Volume measurement?)

On Amazon I found a 44 qt stainless stockpot with steamer basket that I'll probably pick up to mimic your build. $111... haven't pulled the trigger yet though. It's a Bayou Classic style one, I think you mentioned these before. The package description says it's 15x15x19... so at max the diameter of the pot is 15" (probably 14", subtracting for handles, etc) but if it is 15" then the deadspace would be lost at a rate of about 3 qts/inch... If I want to do very small batches, I'd have to minimize this as much as possible. Do you think I could fit everything required at an inch or less?

 

[ScubaSteve]

(Still reading through the thread) Have you put any more thought into this... Ideally I'd like to make a brew rig that will do 1.5-5 gallon batches off of 110V (possibly/probably off of two 110V on different breakers). My goal would be to optimize recipes by doing variations... so Month A I'd brew four 1.5-2 gallon batches and Month B would brew a 5 gallon batch of whatever "won".

//back to reading

Yep....I'm still working on it. I'm kind of at a shortage for $$$....I have about $200 left for this build, and that ain't much. I'm trying to purchase the right stuff.

You can definitely do what you describe...hell, I've thought about scrapping the whole thing for a smaller unit that I'll use more frequently. 4 gallon batches (you won't be able to brew 5 with 115v unless you use 2 elements)are appealing, especially since I've started fermenting in cornies.

 

[OEHokie]

Yep....I'm still working on it. I'm kind of at a shortage for $$$....I have about $200 left for this build, and that ain't much. I'm trying to purchase the right stuff.

You can definitely do what you describe...hell, I've thought about scrapping the whole thing for a smaller unit that I'll use more frequently. 4 gallon batches (you won't be able to brew 5 with 115v unless you use 2 elements)are appealing, especially since I've started fermenting in cornies.

This might be off topic, but why the switch to fermenting in cornies? I thought about doing it myself so I could pressure transfer into a secondary and then into the final keg, but couldn't really justify it. Are there other advantages?

 

[ScubaSteve]

Originally it sounded like you were going to be draining from the bottom, but from recent pictures it looks like you're going for side drainage, as low as possible. Is that correct? Your sketchup models from a page or two ago only show the outside... could you show some sketches of the arrangment inside? I'd like some... err... inspriation

I think I will have two 1500-2000W elements (off two different circuits in my apartment), the drain outlet (probably in the side as low as possible), the temp sensor (no idea where this is going to go) and maybe a sightglass.

This is a basic question... but what are sight glasses used for? Do they have a function other than bling? (Volume measurement?)

On Amazon I found a 44 qt stainless stockpot with steamer basket that I'll probably pick up to mimic your build. $111... haven't pulled the trigger yet though. It's a Bayou Classic style one, I think you mentioned these before. The package description says it's 15x15x19... so at max the diameter of the pot is 15" (probably 14", subtracting for handles, etc) but if it is 15" then the deadspace would be lost at a rate of about 3 qts/inch... If I want to do very small batches, I'd have to minimize this as much as possible. Do you think I could fit everything required at an inch or less?

I will still drain from the bottom, on an offset. I haven't drilled the holes or soldered the fititngs yet, but I have everything. I guess I'm hesitant because I don't want to do it until I'm sure of my layout. I will be drilling holes thru the wood for the fittings.

Sight GLASSES are used for seeing the wort as it recircs....for clarity. I plan on putting mine in the middle of the RIMS for bling.

Sight GAUGES are for measuring liquid level.

I doubt you'll be able to get < 1inch. You're gonna need some pot wall surrounding the element for the locknut to seal. Even if you soldered in a coupler, you'd still need to put it a bit higher. I hope to have the element itself NO higher than 2" above the bottom of the pot. I want to be able to do small batches with this, otherwise it's going to be a huge waste.

 

[ScubaSteve]

This might be off topic, but why the switch to fermenting in cornies? I thought about doing it myself so I could pressure transfer into a secondary and then into the final keg, but couldn't really justify it. Are there other advantages?

I thought it would be a PITA until I tried it....it's super easy and clean. Once you get your system down, it's awesome. Honestly, it's about time for me to buy a new bucket or 2, and the cornies are just a bit more. They can be used for many other things, so it's a win-win. I split a 5.5 gal batch into 2 cornies....it worked great because I split the batch with a buddy. Otherwise, adjust your recipe for 4.75 gals and use fermcap.

Other advantages include being able to bleed the yeast into a separate container for an instant starter, and if you want you can make a "spunding valve" and carbonate the beer under controlled pressure in the late stages of fermentation. You can also scrub the cornies without worry of scratching, though I've been soaking in oxyclean lately.

 

[KCBrewer]

Other advantages include being able to bleed the yeast into a separate container for an instant starter, and if you want you can make a "spunding valve" and carbonate the beer under controlled pressure in the late stages of fermentation. You can also scrub the cornies without worry of scratching, though I've been soaking in oxyclean lately.

So when you rack it, do you use co2 and run it until yeast quits coming out? Or siphon through the top?

I really like the idea of using cornies. Seems like it would have an advantage over both glass and plastic, not worrying about it breaking if dropped or getting scratches/bacteria. :rockin: And like you said, the cost is about the same, but then you have a much more useful piece of equipment. I think I have seen the light.

Nice job on the build too. I just read it over and you've given me yet another design to consider in planning mine. I'm liking yours quite a bit, seems both space & cost efficient versus a 3 vessel setup. Keep the pics coming!

 

[beerocd]

And you are selling these for how much ???

 

[ScubaSteve]

So when you rack it, do you use co2 and run it until yeast quits coming out? Or siphon through the top?

I really like the idea of using cornies. Seems like it would have an advantage over both glass and plastic, not worrying about it breaking if dropped or getting scratches/bacteria. :rockin: And like you said, the cost is about the same, but then you have a much more useful piece of equipment. I think I have seen the light.

Nice job on the build too. I just read it over and you've given me yet another design to consider in planning mine. I'm liking yours quite a bit, seems both space & cost efficient versus a 3 vessel setup. Keep the pics coming!

Here's a great thread to get you going: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/primary-fermenting-corny-keg-138178/

And another: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/

That'll keep you busy

 

[ScubaSteve]

And you are selling these for how much ???

Ha...if I could ever finish it....

The truth is, there's so many ways to go with this. I've REALLY been contemplating spending what little I have on a small setup...like a single vessel CB20...but the awesome industrial parts I have are just too burly for something like that. I guess I gotta keep pushing forward.....I plan on getting the plumbing done and moving on to electric.

 

[beerocd]

you could probably push out maybe 2 or 3 of these systems a year if you keep this pace. So you likely only need to charge 20-25k each to turn this into a career.

But seriously, it looks really cool. You'll have to have an open house brew day so us locals can stop by and go "ooooh" and "ahhhh" while you brew.

 

[fugazzi]

Subscribing. Getting it into my head to make a smaller, cheaper version of this at some point, or at least implementing an SS basket instead of a bag for BIAB.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Okay, so I got a hold of a stainless cart, it fits the kettle and gear perfectly. Sorry if the vessel still has bkf residue....don't want to taint your brew pron

 

[ScubaSteve]

You'll notice a few different valve configurations, I'm still figuring out how to make it work. DO you guys like the wood stand or the SS one?

 

[OEHokie]

You'll notice a few different valve configurations, I'm still figuring out how to make it work. DO you guys like the wood stand or the SS one?

Man, those are some sweet pics. Don't get me wrong... the wood stand was great, but there is a nice allure to an all-metal rig.

 

[ScubaSteve]

One issue that i'm going to have is that on the underside of the table there is a solid spine of SS. It means I'll have to offset the rims, which isn't a huge deal. Drilling this is going to be a real PITA!

 

[pickles]

I'm a cabinetmaker, so i'm partial to wood in most cases. However, the stainless cart is definately my choice!

 

[wyzazz]

Stainless all the way!!! Just think of how easy the cart will be to clean, spray it down with the hose and let it air dry!

P.S. A Plate Chiller from DudaDiesel would get rid of that funny looking copper snake on the bottom tier... ...I'm just sayin...

 

[ScubaSteve]

Stainless all the way!!! Just think of how easy the cart will be to clean, spray it down with the hose and let it air dry!

P.S. A Plate Chiller from DudaDiesel would get rid of that funny looking copper snake on the bottom tier... ...I'm just sayin...

I've been thinking real hard about this, actually. It would probably clean the build up a bunch. I just can't get over the extra filtration it's going to require, etc. That capsule you see to the right in the above pics is an inline hopback. It could also be a decent filter if I put the right gaskets in there. I guess it'd work.

I'm not SO paranoid about trapped particles, but I'd hate to ruin a good plate chiller. Another big concern I have is properly draining the thing without having to detach it. I guess I'd have to put it upside down on the underside of the table. As it stands, the CFC will pass large particles with ease and will drain pretty completely.

I agree, it does kind of stand out.

 

[beerocd]

You just need a bit of copper somewhere else for visual balance. Bang out a copper lid for the pot or put copper pipe over the handle for the cart. (in your spare time)

 

[wyzazz]

I've been thinking real hard about this, actually. It would probably clean the build up a bunch. I just can't get over the extra filtration it's going to require, etc. That capsule you see to the right in the above pics is an inline hopback. It could also be a decent filter if I put the right gaskets in there. I guess it'd work.

I'm not SO paranoid about trapped particles, but I'd hate to ruin a good plate chiller. Another big concern I have is properly draining the thing without having to detach it. I guess I'd have to put it upside down on the underside of the table. As it stands, the CFC will pass large particles with ease and will drain pretty completely.

I agree, it does kind of stand out.

FWIW - I use a plate chiller (sometimes gravity fed) with the Lil Sparky hop bag and haven't had an issue. And I use pellets almost exclusively because they are cheaper in bulk.

 

[mjohnson]

I actually like to see bits of copper her and there.

 

[ScubaSteve]

You just need a bit of copper somewhere else for visual balance. Bang out a copper lid for the pot or put copper pipe over the handle for the cart. (in your spare time)

Well, a copper sheet can be had for cheap....maybe I could put that under the valves and create some contrast.....

 

[OEHokie]

Throw a SS casing around the chillzilla? You wouldn't see the coils that way, but you wouldn't see the copper either. Sheet metal is cheap, I don't know about sheet SS though

 

[ScubaSteve]

I actually like the copper....but I do realize it sticks out. I gotta figure everything else out, then I can come back to this.