Single Tier RIMS with only two pots

[badhabit]

Bobby M I am interested in your thoughts about welded vs no weld fittings on a keggle. In plain english, which is the best way to go over time.

 

[iijakii]

If you can weld / know someone that can, there's no reason to go weldless. Not that there's anything wrong with weldless... they're just not as ideal. Welded will never, ever leak.

Wish I had a welder =\

 

[jkarp]

kmat - so do you plan for the slight in-efficiencies of the two vessel system and increase grain levels accordingly? At a percentage for each grain, or typically just the base grain?

Todd.

Brewers debate this point, but I personally just tweak base malts in my system.

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby M I am interested in your thoughts about welded vs no weld fittings on a keggle. In plain english, which is the best way to go over time.

I'd say the best way to decide is to try to find a welder and get some quotes to weld all the bulkheads you're interested in. If it's going to cost you more than $100, I'd say go weldless.

If you know someone who will do it as a favor or for a six pack (this is homebrewer's urban myth for all intents and purposes) then It's a no brainer to have it welded.

All the weldless parts are a small premium price over the weldable versions.

 

[kmat123]

Brewers debate this point, but I personally just tweak base malts in my system.

I agree with jkarp. I usually just lower the efficiency to 70% when planning my brews in Beersmith and it does the math for me.

 

[badhabit]

I'd say the best way to decide is to try to find a welder and get some quotes to weld all the bulkheads you're interested in. If it's going to cost you more than $100, I'd say go weldless.

If you know someone who will do it as a favor or for a six pack (this is homebrewer's urban myth for all intents and purposes) then It's a no brainer to have it welded.

All the weldless parts are a small premium price over the weldable versions.

Thanks, I have no TIG set up so I will see what I can get for a price estimate.

 

[vonZwicky]

Revisiting the un-heated HLT concept: I use a 10 gallon military surplus coffee thermos to hold my sparge water (any decent cooler would work). I start the brew day heating sparge water in the BK to about 190 degrees. I use this time to weigh and mill grains, and do any other setup. I pump the hot water over to the thermos, slowly dilute with tap water until I get the temp to 170, then seal it closed. It will hold the temp while I heat strike water, conduct the mash, and recirculate. The sparge water is drained by gravity into the MLT from which the runnings are pumped up into the boil kettle.

It's not quite one tier, but I only use one pump and one burner. I will certainly expand later with more hardware, a fancy stand, etc. ,but for now it serves me well. It sounds like the only equipment you need (besides what you already plan on using) is an extra cooler (+ valve) that can also still be used as a cooler when you aren't brewing beer. Better yet, you can fill it with ice-water at the end of the brew day for wort chilling, if you're so inclined.