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Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig

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love the stand and layout! using some of your ideas and adjustments in my stand.

which valves did you use from valves4projects? also, which valves are you using on the gas/pilots (the yellow ones).

Thanks!

The gas valves from valves4projects are "1/2" Electric Solenoid Valve 110-VAC Air, Water... B21N". The yellow valves are standard manual gas valves from the hardware store.
 
Is that aluminum diamond plate and what thickness did you go with? Looking to order a piece to copy yours, did you buy it online?
 
Is that aluminum diamond plate and what thickness did you go with? Looking to order a piece to copy yours, did you buy it online?

It is 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. I bought it at a local metal supplier. For 18" x 60" it was $70. I just had to notch out the corners to fit the lower shelf. I also ran a bead of silicone under it so if I have any spills, it won't run under the shelf. (I've over filled my HLT twice now, so it has done it's job!)
 
Very nice brew rig you designed there JonW
I thought I saw the video of your setup on YouTube;
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/user/Backhousebrew#p/u/4/v-exFecRiVg"]Brewcommune Homebrewer's Club" Brew Day[/ame]

Well thought out and executed :mug:

BeerCanuck
 
Jon, awesome build man!

would you happen to have a part number for the hoses you used? i need to replace mine since i'm not 100% happy with what i got from mcmaster.

Thanks!
 
Very nice brew rig you designed there JonW
I thought I saw the video of your setup on YouTube;
Brewcommune Homebrewer's Club" Brew Day

Well thought out and executed :mug:

BeerCanuck

Jon, awesome build man!

would you happen to have a part number for the hoses you used? i need to replace mine since i'm not 100% happy with what i got from mcmaster.

Thanks!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback!

The hoses are thermoplastic. They are a bit stiffer than the silicone hoses that many people use. You can get it at several of the home brew stores like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/1-2-id-thermoplastic-tubing.html (I do use the soft silicone tubing for the coil at the top of my grain bed in the mash tun though.)

I use the full flow (1/2" ID) hose barbs from BrewersHardware.com. Since the barbs are over-sized, they hold very tight and do not leak without any clamps.
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?

Beautiful build:mug:
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?
I rinse and sanitize everything after a brew day. On brew day, I run boiling wort through the chiller for the last 10 minutes of the boil.

Beautiful build:mug:
Thank you! :)

Do you have any problems with not being able to drain all the liquid out of the plumbing?

All the (vertical) hoses disconnect. The only thing left stationary are the pumps and the horizontal SS rod connecting them. With all valves open and no hoses connected, it drains pretty complete. The chiller is only mounted hand tight so I can take it off and drain it (turn it side to side until empty).
 
How do you sanitize your chiller? Do you recirculate the boiling wort or do you run sanitizer through before first strike?

Beautiful build:mug:

On my system I run starsan through the chiller at the beggining of the day. Never had any contamination. I do recirc boiling wort through the pump and plumbing prior to running it to the chiller because the wort goes through that plumbing prior to boiling when transfering from the mash tun.
 
Do you have any problems with not being able to drain all the liquid out of the plumbing?

I have a similar system and there is always going to be some lost wort (about 1/4 gal) in the plumbing. After I clean and rinse my system I disconnect all hoses and blow out the plumbing with compressed air. Works like a charm.
 
Stupid question, but is there any reason you went with the blue valves over the black valves similar to the gas vales?

I am assuming, correct me if I'm wrong, but the black valves are solenoid vales and the blue are electronic ball valves correct?

Is there any draw back to using all solenoid valves for a similar design?
 
Great job!
Where are you finding pumps for $100.
There were Chugger pumps (March clone) on Ebay last year for less than $100 and some actual March's going for barely over $100 at the time.

Stupid question, but is there any reason you went with the blue valves over the black valves similar to the gas vales?

I am assuming, correct me if I'm wrong, but the black valves are solenoid vales and the blue are electronic ball valves correct?

Is there any draw back to using all solenoid valves for a similar design?
The solenoid valves all use a rubber diaphram for their sealing. They do not come totally clean when rinsing fluid through your system and they tend to stick over time when used with wort. The blue valves are SS ball valves that clean 100% when running PBW or other cleaner through them. I use the less expensive solenoids for gas, but the ball valves for liquid.

The solenoid valves open & close instantly, but the ball valves take about 5 seconds to fully open or close.
 
There were Chugger pumps (March clone) on Ebay last year for less than $100 and some actual March's going for barely over $100 at the time.


The solenoid valves all use a rubber diaphram for their sealing. They do not come totally clean when rinsing fluid through your system and they tend to stick over time when used with wort. The blue valves are SS ball valves that clean 100% when running PBW or other cleaner through them. I use the less expensive solenoids for gas, but the ball valves for liquid.

The solenoid valves open & close instantly, but the ball valves take about 5 seconds to fully open or close.

What did the ball valves run you? I was looking at some different ones and they were 200-300$ a piece
 
Super cool setup. What are you using in the bottom of the mash tun for a filter?
I live right across the 405 from you.
 
what kind of electronic ball valves are they ? and where I can buy ? on the BCS 462 how good it is ?
 
I really like your design and if you don't mind, I may use it in designing mine. Sorry if this was discussed but how did you attach the triangle corner gussets to the rails? Are they welded from underneath? Are they load baring? My pots are 15.25" in diameter so it seems they would be supported mostly by the gussets.

Thanks!
 
what kind of electronic ball valves are they ? and where I can buy ? on the BCS 462 how good it is ?
See links to valves posted just a few messages back. The BCS unit works fantastic. I have several friends that have them as well and we are all happy with it.

I really like your design and if you don't mind, I may use it in designing mine. Sorry if this was discussed but how did you attach the triangle corner gussets to the rails? Are they welded from underneath? Are they load baring? My pots are 15.25" in diameter so it seems they would be supported mostly by the gussets.

Thanks!
In case you missed it, there are dimensions listed further back in the thread. The gussets have a bead welded along their sides to attach to the rails. They sit inside the center area so that the top (face) of the the gusset is flush with the top rails. Yes, they'll hold the weight just fine.
 
I added a Tippy Dump to my rig. See complete write up on the details here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/tippy-dump-blichmann-mash-tun-266852/

Tippy5.JPG


Tippy1.JPG
 
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