Simple solution to control heating elements?
- Thread starter glick
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augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
Ahh that makes more sense now I have to edit my other comment in the other thread.
theichthus
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I have yet to try it but I just modified mine. Same thing--I do have over current protection down stream. I also traced the PCB and see that it goes from triac through fuse to L terminal. So everything that was in common with the fuse in
removed is in common with the one down stream.
removed is in common with the one down stream.theichthus:
You are welcome!
From that angle the board sure looks burnt!
Despite the conclusion that some have jumped to, I am actually quite cautious in my designs and would have thought that this module is too small for 5500w. It appears obvious that this is true with the well intentioned fuse that ended up being a fire hazard.
(The size of the pcb traces is also a little bit concerning but, as they say, the proof is in the pudding)
We have a beautiful resistive load so heat is the only thing that will kill this.
Looking at my use of this in a BIAB keggle, I have it on full for 40 minutes to get to mash temp, 8 minutes to get to "sparse" temp and then 20 minutes to get to boil temp. The rest is running at half to two thirds power. At this duty cycle, and with temporary use I think a tighter design is appropriate.
I would be very curious to know, after you have run the heater on full for about ten minutes and then killed the power, what the temperature of the actual circuit board, the heat sink and the Triac is?
Tom
You are welcome!
From that angle the board sure looks burnt!
Despite the conclusion that some have jumped to, I am actually quite cautious in my designs and would have thought that this module is too small for 5500w. It appears obvious that this is true with the well intentioned fuse that ended up being a fire hazard.
(The size of the pcb traces is also a little bit concerning but, as they say, the proof is in the pudding)
We have a beautiful resistive load so heat is the only thing that will kill this.
Looking at my use of this in a BIAB keggle, I have it on full for 40 minutes to get to mash temp, 8 minutes to get to "sparse" temp and then 20 minutes to get to boil temp. The rest is running at half to two thirds power. At this duty cycle, and with temporary use I think a tighter design is appropriate.
I would be very curious to know, after you have run the heater on full for about ten minutes and then killed the power, what the temperature of the actual circuit board, the heat sink and the Triac is?
Tom
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