Simple answer to pH adjustment

[dude1]

I generally measure 5.6 with my ph meter after 15 minutes into the mash.

I looked for a simple answer to adjust this, but I feel overwhelmed by the number of possible additions and also the calculation.

Could someone just answer these simple questions:

- Which type of acid or buffering agent do you recommend?
- How much should I use for my 2.5 Gal batches in order to get down to 5.2?
- When to add it?

Additional information:
I brew all-grain American amber ales and IPAs and use 1.25qt mash water per lb (=~ 2.7L/kg)

Thanks for your help

 

[JonM]

- either 88% lactic acid or 10% phosphoric

- you really need to run the recipe through a recipe calculator like Bru'n Water or Brewer's Friend to get a good estimate of the amount needed (and 5.2 is too low - shoot for 5.4.)

- add to the mash water before you start heating it up.

 

[DudleyDoLeft]

It will be a different case depending on malt (grain bill).
It is OK to adjust your water at that point just try not to wait too far into mash. the reason why it should meet the target pH is that the enzyme reactions especially at the 140-160 range will be affected. [the topic can easily get into more complex discussion, but i'd say small changes with careful monitoring is certainly all good - plus make sure to use pH meter to test at the proper temp]

I like the methods mentioned last in this thread. You can of course adapt to using a tradition of acidified malt (containing lactic acid), the method comes from making it easier than doing your own sour mash,

phosphoric is easy and often used because it has little flavor impact, great storage, and ease of use. i have been off the charts from bru'n water and resorted to adding a teaspoon at a time such impromptu needs arise.

 

[Mexibilly]

Check out Bru'n Water.
There's a free download that will get you right where you need to be.
Brewers Friend has a calculator too.
Use your resources.

 

[IslandLizard]

Did you cool that mash sample down to around 20°C when measuring the pH? That's important.

I've used 88% lactic acid for the longest time to acidify my mash and sparge waters. I finally bought a gallon of 85% Phosphoric Acid from Duda Diesel, split it with a bunch of friends at our group buy, and have been using that instead.

The small 10% bottles you'd buy at the brew store are a joke. I would need about 1/8-1/4 bottle for a 5 gallon batch. Now it's only half a teaspoon at most. I've diluted some of it down to a 42.5% working solution to be a bit more manageable.

You could do a test mash with 1/2 a pound of your grist mix, and measure the pH of that. If not exactly on target, adjust for your main mash. Add the small test batch at the end. No grain left behind.

 

[Natdavis777]

Check out Bru'n Water.
There's a free download that will get you right where you need to be.
Brewers Friend has a calculator too.
Use your resources.

+1

This should get you pretty close to your mash pH. If you are still off, it should only be by a very small margin.

 

[dude1]

Thanks for all your answers.
My phmeter has temperature compensation.
I will get into Bru'n Water and do the maths.

 

[JonM]

I'll also recommend a test mash. It works really, really well when you're not sure about the numbers. When you get your ingredients, just grab a separate bag containing a mini batch of 10% of your grain bill. Of course, you need a really good scale to measure 10% of your salts and a tiny pipette to measure out 10% of your acid additions, but it works really well.

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for all your answers.
My phmeter has temperature compensation.
I will get into Bru'n Water and do the maths.

Don't depend on the temperature compensation to get accurate readings on hot wort. Read some of the threads on pH meters in the "Brew Science" forum to learn more. Also, hot wort will shorten the life of your pH probe, which even if it is replaceable, represents a majority of the cost of your meter.

Brew on

 

[NoIguanaForZ]

Thanks for all your answers.
My phmeter has temperature compensation.
I will get into Bru'n Water and do the maths.

Check the range on the ATC. If I recall correctly, mine is up to around 120 or 130 F equivalent, so it may not be serving you well at mash temperatures.

 

[bigdongsr94]

Without your recipe and water there are too many variables but I will answer anyway. Using RO at 1.25 on an amber ale, I would need no acid addition to hit pH. I also add a bit of gypsum and cacl to the water but if you left out you would be ok. On a ligh colored IPA I typically add more gypsum than cacl and up to about .4 ml per gallon of 88% lactic acid. Even after a meter and water chemistry my brews were much better with switching to RO and limiting my additions to as small as possible and meeting the general profiles for the type of beer. Start small. I've seen 4.8-5.8 produce fantastic beers so until you know more if you go 0-.4 ml lactic per gallon strike only with RO water, I bet you will not fail due to pH. My conversion eff is also great so don't let that worry you based on pH. So if it's Amber go straight away. If it's light, up to about .4ml is good.