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I realized the other day that I started this thread some years ago, yet never posted pics of my simple but effective set-up. As so many before me have done, I say "Thank you" to the community. Were it not for all of you I certainly would not have embarked on this project. In the end, I could not be happier with my results. For the record mine is a eBIAB set-up which should be obvious from the pics.

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The panel hasn't changed, only the wall its mounted to in the brew room. Air brushed lightning bolts have been added, and Arguably, this has improved the beer production by 8.5 %.

Wall is awesome. But I love how the focal point of the brewery is the pool table. Is that a Brunswick Gold Crown? What year?
 
Wall is awesome. But I love how the focal point of the brewery is the pool table. Is that a Brunswick Gold Crown? What year?

Its a 10' snooker table, not a pool table. Big difference. Its actually a Gandy big G, built in Georgia in the '70s. The company went out of business years ago. Similar to the Gold Crown in design, but more heavy duty.
 
Its a 10' snooker table, not a pool table. Big difference. Its actually a Gandy big G, built in Georgia in the '70s. The company went out of business years ago. Similar to the Gold Crown in design, but more heavy duty.



My dad has the same table. If you can play on that you can play on anything.
 
My updated panel. 3phase, 400v/16A (I live in Sweden, so the electric system differs from U.S)

3 SSR with quite small heatsinks, but 2 fans makes sure that they stay cool.
Dual outlet, one for HLT and one for the boiler. The on/on switch is used to choose if the PID or the "boil controller" triggers the SSRs.

Indivual Volt/Amp meters (one per phase)

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You're one of the few people that turned the enclosure hinge horizontal. I was wondering why more people don't do this. I'm about to ouch holes in my build. I currently will only be running two PIDs, but if I wanted to add another it seems it would be easier since I can leave more space between them.
 
You're one of the few people that turned the enclosure hinge horizontal. I was wondering why more people don't do this. I'm about to ouch holes in my build. I currently will only be running two PIDs, but if I wanted to add another it seems it would be easier since I can leave more space between them.

Just makes it slightly harder since you have to hold it open anytime you're in there.
 
I call it Megatron. My double duty 50amp electric chair/beer brewer.


I'm building a dual purpose controller for an "electric chair" too. [emoji78] What are all the pots on the bottom for? They look like analog voltage regulator controls, but that doesn't make sense since you've got the PIDs. I'm lost, but also impressed. Love your build.
 
I'm building a dual purpose controller for an "electric chair" too. [emoji78] What are all the pots on the bottom for? They look like analog voltage regulator controls, but that doesn't make sense since you've got the PIDs. I'm lost, but also impressed. Love your build.

The tags on the temp meters explain somewhat what the alternative system does. PIDs perform based on temp. The pots run the SSRs based on power. It makes sense when it's used as designed. The alternative is really not supposed to be discussed on this forum so....
 
Just make sure your wiring lengths are good to your front panel so when It swings down it doesn't rip any wires loose.


You'd secure the wire bundles on the hinge side no matter how the enclosure is oriented. I'm not understanding what you're saying.
 
My panel is pretty utilitarian. 2 cheapass chinese 10,000 watt SCR's that power 2 15.5 keggles, each with a 5500W camco ultra low watt density element. Powered off a 50 Amp breaker (46 amps with both roaring). Ive since ditched the dig meters and put analog ones on there that read true RMS. But dont really pay attention to them at all anymore. I have markings next to the dial for 3000 and 4000W. Im typcially cooking at 3000, 4000 or full tits depending what Im doing.

With 2 kettles and staggering my brews 1 hour I brew 2 10gal batches in 6.5 hours back to back, sharing a mash tun and brewpot. (second keggle is just used to heat mash and sparge water). Adding a 3rd batch adds 1.5 hours essentially, so its a no brainer for me on brew day to load up on supplies and get busy. Got 6 taplines to keep loaded up (I posted pics of my keezer/bar elsewhere here today).

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I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next weekend.


Dang! That's the cleanest interior I think I've seen on here.
 
I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next .
That sticker looks pretty sweet.
 
I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next weekend.

Are you planning on heatsinks for the SSR. I mounted this giant heatsink and it was barely warm after one hour of 2 elements running.
 
Here's my ghetto fabulous panel. Single 5500 element BIAB system. MyPin PID is used to get up to strike temp w/o me babysitting it. Then small manual adjustments as needed to maintain temp. Spa panel is my main disconnect. The small rotary switch breaks the SSR control voltage so I can use the PID display for wort temps as I'm cooling/hopstanding. Just a a little easier then dialing the manual power up and down via the PID.

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Also I found an eBay seller that has lightly used Hubbell 30 amp twist lock connectors for cheap, xIntsirplus. I got 4 males and females for $26 shipped I think. Way cheaper than even brand new ones coming on the slow boat from China.
 
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