Show Me Your Wood Brew Sculpture/Rig

[wilserbrewer]

Are those 2 heatsticks ?

Yep...2 heat sticks at 2000w each. I have also removed the third tier, and have simply chosen to transfer the sparge water w/ the one gallon pitcher, I actually find it easier and faster than gravity draining the HLT.

Here is my present configuration...as you can see, I can't pass up a good deal on a brewpot...hah.
11 gal stainless bayou classic from costco...$23 with ss burner
15 gal alum w/ lid...$43 shipped
20 gal alum w/ lid...$25 c'list
20 gal heavy stainless...$50 c'list

edit...hah...that's where all the ping pong balls are.

 

[kappclark]

I am planning to have the same setup, but am going to try using 2 bucket heaters - each abt half the wattage of your sticks...plan to use a timer night before... mash tun/cooler will ahve 4 gals of 164 deg water for the dough in. HLT will be on timer as well .. will need to tweak the timer to see what time period is best @1000W .. maybe 2 - 3 hours for 4 gals ?

 

[wilserbrewer]

I am planning to have the same setup, but am going to try using 2 bucket heaters - each abt half the wattage of your sticks...plan to use a timer night before... mash tun/cooler will ahve 4 gals of 164 deg water for the dough in. HLT will be on timer as well .. will need to tweak the timer to see what time period is best @1000W .. maybe 2 - 3 hours for 4 gals ?

I would think 1 bucket heater would heat all the water you need given enough time...just load the hlt w/ all the water...no?

I would just try and overshoot temp...it is easy to temper down w/ cool water.

 

[willynilly]

I am planning to have the same setup, but am going to try using 2 bucket heaters - each abt half the wattage of your sticks...plan to use a timer night before... mash tun/cooler will ahve 4 gals of 164 deg water for the dough in. HLT will be on timer as well .. will need to tweak the timer to see what time period is best @1000W .. maybe 2 - 3 hours for 4 gals ?

If you are using coolers, if not this wont apply....

4 gallons is 34 pounds of water

34 x 109F temp delta (55-164F)

3706 BTUs to reach that temp. in that volume

1kW is 3412 BTUs

1:06 to reach the temp you desire in 4 gallons (55-164F)

If you are using a NON insulated vessel, it may double... as it is taking so long to heat, you are giving the water a lot of time to radiate heat to ambient.

 

[MrShake]

10 Gallon Capable single Tier... soon to be eHERMS

 

[kappclark]

If you are using coolers, if not this wont apply....

4 gallons is 34 pounds of water

34 x 109F temp delta (55-164F)

3706 BTUs to reach that temp. in that volume

1kW is 3412 BTUs

1:06 to reach the temp you desire in 4 gallons (55-164F)

If you are using a NON insulated vessel, it may double... as it is taking so long to heat, you are giving the water a lot of time to radiate heat to ambient.

started at 44///
lid slightly open

90 mins now at 134

 

[wilserbrewer]

Nice system Mr. Shake...how about a closeup of the control box w/ details...thanks.

 

[willynilly]

started at 44///
lid slightly open

90 mins now at 134

Dang...

That is only netting about 60% of your BTUs/Wattage

At that rate it will take you about 2 hours to get from 44F to 165F in 4 gallons (2000 BTu/hr)

 

[MrShake]

Nice system Mr. Shake...how about a closeup of the control box w/ details...thanks.

Here is the whole kit and kaboodle
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mrshakes-magic-brewhaus-top-hat-brewery-152141/

I really should link to that in my signature!

 

[mariojr]

Here's my simple system in IC mode. The best thing about it being wood is you can easily alter or add things with a simple cordless drill and some screws.

 

[klyph]

Oh man, those bricks propping up all your precious brew.

Brewing on the edge! Extreme brewing!

 

[boogyman]

Oh man, those bricks propping up all your precious brew.

That was the first thing i noticed too... nothing like a scalding pot of liquid waiting to be tipped over.

 

[mariojr]

That was the first thing i noticed too... nothing like a scalding pot of liquid waiting to be tipped over.

Looks a little sketchy, but I assure you it's not going to tip. Just helps level out the burner since it's cantilevered off the stand.

 

[BadgerBrewer]

Has anyone else created any wood frame rigs/stands or taken any pics in the last few months?

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Has anyone else created any wood frame rigs/stands or taken any pics in the last few months?

I've got a concept in mind here, but I'm rethinking a few things after looking at this thread.

Great stuff guys!

 

[eanmcnulty]

Morning wood...

I'm trying to build a small brew stand. In this picture the burner is right next to the propane tank. It that a problem? Could a piece of wood or something be put in between the burner and the tank? Would that cause any problems?

 

[eanmcnulty]

Almost done with mine.

Just need to silver solder a ground point on the kettle.
Run hose for return on the kettle and mash tun.

Should get some calibration in this week and first brew on it next weekend!!!

I like this little set-up. What size batches do you make with this?

 

[sharpstick]

In this picture the burner is right next to the propane tank. It that a problem? Could a piece of wood or something be put in between the burner and the tank? Would that cause any problems?

a piece of wood would probably shield the tank from burner heat, especially if the heat is all the way up and there is any breeze in the right(wrong?) direction. but the wood would possibly catch on fire, better than the tank heating up. i think i would engineer some kind of windscreen of two layers of thin sheet metal that is easily replaceable if it gets warped.
Better yet, can you just move the tank?

I would also keep an eye on the wooden frame where it adjacent to the burners.

 

[eanmcnulty]

a piece of wood would probably shield the tank from burner heat, especially if the heat is all the way up and there is any breeze in the right(wrong?) direction. but the wood would possibly catch on fire, better than the tank heating up. i think i would engineer some kind of windscreen of two layers of thin sheet metal that is easily replaceable if it gets warped.
Better yet, can you just move the tank?

I would also keep an eye on the wooden frame where it adjacent to the burners.

Yes, I think a piece of sheet metal might work. Why would I want it to be two layers?

 

[sharpstick]

Yes, I think a piece of sheet metal might work. Why would I want it to be two layers?

maybe that's just overkill, but two layers would create an insulating airspace. i've had plastic and paint melted/blistered from the flame when my 185kbtu burner was cranked up. i've also had a thin sheet metal windscreen warped and melted.

 

[eanmcnulty]

maybe that's just overkill, but two layers would create an insulating airspace. i've had plastic and paint melted/blistered from the flame when my 185kbtu burner was cranked up. i've also had a thin sheet metal windscreen warped and melted.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will check the difference between the sheet metal and some concrete board. I finally have a design that I like for my brewstand.

 

[Shaggyt]

I'm planning on building a wooden rig for ten gallon batches, two tier. The setup will be two kegs (BK & HLT) with MLT cooler, one pump, and two propane burners. I'm using all wood and parts left over from other projects...might move to electric in the future.

Question though - what hardware would you recommend to build with? Deck screws, lag bolts, combination of the two, simple wood screws?

blue rectangle = MLT
white hexagonal columns = BK & HLT

The portion of the rig under the MLT is an Ikea table I'll be build off of...

 

[babalu87]

Pyrolysis

Its going to happen

 

[IrregularPulse]

The portion of the rig under the MLT is an Ikea table I'll be build off of...

To be honest, I would be timid to use IKEA furniture to support that kind of weight , around water, and around any kind of flame. Let alone all 3!
That is not wood, it is wood dust glued together.

 

[babalu87]

 

[Shaggyt]

To be honest, I would be timid to use IKEA furniture to support that kind of weight , around water, and around any kind of flame. Let alone all 3!
That is not wood, it is wood dust glued together.

I feel you IrregularPulse...this piece is solid wood though, not the furniture-style stuff they're famous for. I've been using it to support my MLT for the past two years almost. Also, plenty of heat shielding will be in place that's not represented in the design.

Angle iron will support the kegs and burners...be it store bought slotted or recycled bed frames...but I'm aiming for cheap.

I've given this tons of thought and perused the entire thread so I feel confident that I can use what I have to build this rig...just need some advice on the connectors to use to support the weight properly.

 

[lebshiff21]

recycled bed frames

Brilliant! I have one the previous owner of my house left. My build just got cheaper

 

[ScottSA]

Thought I'd share what I came up with:

Need to figure out what i'm going to do with the pumps. they will be too low if i mount them with the heads verticle. I think i'm going to make some kind of box that will keep them dry and elevate them.

 

[ScottSA]

here is an updated image with the switches, pumps and casters mounted up. i cut 6" off the legs to accommodate the casters, i'm not very tall

 

[ScubaSteve]

Question though - what hardware would you recommend to build with? Deck screws, lag bolts, combination of the two, simple wood screws?

Lag bolts are simple and nice, but it gets expensive. You wouldn't need anything bigger than 3/8" if you used them.

I like deck screws after building several brew related items out of wood. They're self tapping and require no pilot holes (unless you think you might crack the wood) and they have the kind coated by rustoleum paint. I got some tan screws that blend well and look real sharp. Plus, they're cheap and you get a bunch!