Show me your RIMS set up

[rwc_617]

rwc_617,
thanks. the last of my electronic parts are trickling in.
cheers

LavaSteam, here are some of my wiring diagrams. I used a Normally Closed SSR (Crydom D2450-B), so that juice will be cut to the HLT or the BK whenever the RIMS needs juice. So far so good.

To simplify wiring, I used circuit breaker switches instead of relays. A 12V relay approach would have been cheaper and just as good, but my caveman mentality likes the simplicity of the breaker switches.

I'm familiar with thermocouples from a previous life so I use those, but RTDs are probably a little better and I may migrate that way someday. I like the way my SSVR works for BK control. One criticism of SSVR-BK control is for hop stands, but I can swap the BK element into the HLT controller and dangle a spare thermocouple in the BK during chill down and hold a steady temp. (I've tested it with water but not wort.)

Another thing I like about my setup is augmenting the 4500 W BK element with a 19000 Btu/hr burner on SWMBO's stove -- they really get 6.5 gallons of wort boiling pronto!!

One change I would like to do is on the Pump 1 wiring. In order to avoid scorching in the RIMS tube, I rigged the double pole switch for the RIMS element so that Pump 1 comes one whenever that switch is closed (one pole for the heater, the other for the pump). But since I have a three way L-type valve on the exit of Pump 1, I can divert wort away from the RIMS and scorch the heck out of whatever is still in there. I haven't scorched anything YET, but I would like to copy AugieDoggie's flow valve approach someday.

Good luck with your system, LS!

 

[LavaSteam]

rwc_617,
Thanks for the diagrams. I think I figured out most of the labels. L1-L6 are the lights, T1 & T2 are the termocouples or RTD. Are C1, C2, & C3 the heating elements in the RIMS, HLT, & Boil Kettle respectively? Are C4 & C5 the pumps? Is C0 the power into the controller?
I found a Crydom D 2450 on ebay, is this the same as the Crydom D2450-B that you used?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crydom-Solid-State-Relay-D2450-3-32vdc-in-240vac-out-50amps-/381010955685?
Thanks for your help with my controller build.
I like your sparge set up as well!
cheers
LS

 

[hafmpty]

View attachment 279454View attachment 279455
Hafmpty, currently I'm using 1/2" silicone tubing for the RIMS return and 3/8" silicone for the sparge arm. I cannibalized a couple of stainless BBQ skewers and bent them such that they hold up the tubes just above the grain bed. For each tube, I used a silicone bottle stopper to plug one end and I used hollow punch to put holes along both sides of the tube for a fairly even spread of wort or water on the top of the grain bed.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the additional pics and info. I appreciate it.

 

[rwc_617]

rwc_617,
Thanks for the diagrams. I think I figured out most of the labels. L1-L6 are the lights, T1 & T2 are the termocouples or RTD. Are C1, C2, & C3 the heating elements in the RIMS, HLT, & Boil Kettle respectively? Are C4 & C5 the pumps? Is C0 the power into the controller? ...
LS

Yes. I use "C" for Connector.

...
I found a Crydom D 2450 on ebay, is this the same as the Crydom D2450-B that you used? ...
LS

No. That is a Normally Open SSR. You need the hard-to-find "-B" at the end to indicate that it is Normally Closed. I will try to find my source. BTW, that line is really only 120V relative to Neutral and to Ground, so you could use a D1240-B, but I never found one of those at a reasonable price. And the extra voltage and amperage capability of the 2450-B makes me feel better.

Good luck, and sorry to be so far off topic!

 

[LavaSteam]

No. That is a Normally Open SSR. You need the hard-to-find "-B" at the end to indicate that it is Normally Closed. I will try to find my source. BTW, that line is really only 120V relative to Neutral and to Ground, so you could use a D1240-B, but I never found one of those at a reasonable price. And the extra voltage and amperage capability of the 2450-B makes me feel better.

rwc_617,
Thanks for your prompt answer to my question. I will look, too, for the Normally Closed 2450-B variety and dump the NC version from my eBay cart.
cheers
LS

 

[rwc_617]

rwc_617,
Thanks for your prompt answer to my question. I will look, too, for the Normally Closed 2450-B variety and dump the NC version from my eBay cart.
cheers
LS

Happy to help, LS. Got mine from Zoro Tools. Happy Brewing!

 

[Flaviking]

Anyone have any thoughts on mounting it Vertically or horizontally?

 

[augiedoggy]

Anyone have any thoughts on mounting it Vertically or horizontally?

As long as you build and orientate it so no air pockets get trapped inside it doesn't matter...

I finished and tested my new longer 40" rims tube using an 1800w certridge heater element a couple weeks ago and I get a solid 2 degree rise per minute with 5 gallons of water from 70 all the way up to a 154 degree where I had the setpoint... I'm done messing with it since this is perfect for set mashing.
I just kegged an oragnge wheat beer I made with it 2 weeks ago and I got about 80% efficiency..

Here are some newer pics, I moved the safety float switch as well as the pump location for the rims and the flow meter (amongst other changes.) not bad for a low budget build of under $200 in parts. the whole setup including kettles fittings ,control panel and rims comes in somewhere around $1000-1200..... (if you dont include the $400 or so in old hardware I removed during constant upgrades and fermenters and such) the last pic has my new larger 16 gallon boil kettleI just found on amazon with the bent lid rim for $89 shipped.

 

[AlfA01]

LavaSteam, here are some of my wiring diagrams. I used a Normally Closed SSR (Crydom D2450-B), so that juice will be cut to the HLT or the BK whenever the RIMS needs juice. So far so good.

To simplify wiring, I used circuit breaker switches instead of relays. A 12V relay approach would have been cheaper and just as good, but my caveman mentality likes the simplicity of the breaker switches.

I'm familiar with thermocouples from a previous life so I use those, but RTDs are probably a little better and I may migrate that way someday. I like the way my SSVR works for BK control. One criticism of SSVR-BK control is for hop stands, but I can swap the BK element into the HLT controller and dangle a spare thermocouple in the BK during chill down and hold a steady temp. (I've tested it with water but not wort.)

Another thing I like about my setup is augmenting the 4500 W BK element with a 19000 Btu/hr burner on SWMBO's stove -- they really get 6.5 gallons of wort boiling pronto!!

One change I would like to do is on the Pump 1 wiring. In order to avoid scorching in the RIMS tube, I rigged the double pole switch for the RIMS element so that Pump 1 comes one whenever that switch is closed (one pole for the heater, the other for the pump). But since I have a three way L-type valve on the exit of Pump 1, I can divert wort away from the RIMS and scorch the heck out of whatever is still in there. I haven't scorched anything YET, but I would like to copy AugieDoggie's flow valve approach someday.

Good luck with your system, LS!

Hope you guys don't mind if I chime in and some questions occasionally. rwc 617, What software are you using to draw your wiring diagrams/schematics?

 

[rwc_617]

AlfA01, I did those in MS-PowerPoint. Kind of painful, because it loves to move your carefully-placed lines all around the page.

 

[BrunDog]

Augie... Where did you get that flowmeter?

-BD

 

[Riot]

Augie... Where did you get that flowmeter?

-BD

I've asked the same question, you can get them on eBay.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/161320323812?nav=SEARCH

 

[lehr]

Overhead