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Show me your RIMS set up

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Flaviking

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Hey guys, Just got my RIMS tube in the mail yesterday, looking to see some of everyone's set up to help me decide on where and how to hook it up. Looking forward to seeing some great ideas!

Thanks!
 
The picture may not be very clear...I have my 18" RIMS tube attached to my Top Tier brewstand. You'll see the bottom of the tube (inlet) has the element (220) wiring and the top (outlet) has the sensor probe. The inlet is connected to a rotometer/pump and the outlet is connect to the cooler mash tun.

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I figured if I was going RIMS, I was going to do a bottom-drain assembly (keg flipped upside-down). This picture is a test run without the insulation jacket. I have since put a stainless T plus ball valve in between the mash tun drain and the pump inlet to cleanly drain the contents remaining in the RIMS tube at the end.

(Project pic album: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107388208376046611091/albums/5998086480059210065 )
 
Here is the two-tier system I built for 5-gal batches. It has a 1500 W/120 VAC RIMS heater with MyPIN controller. Mash tun sits on a modified step stool. Chugger recirculation pump & RIMS tube are mounted to a modified aluminum work platform below the mash tun. The HLT and BK each have a 4500 W/240 VAC element and sit above on my loving SWMBO's awesome gas stove, making this a hybrid I suppose. Yes, the BK control goes to 11! Controller has a manual selector between the HLT and the BK, and it automatically interrupts current to the 240 VAC side whenever the RIMS element needs juice. System works great for low to medium gravity beers. Hope to bring a larger MT online in the near future to make high gravity beers easier.
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rwc_617,
I am gathering the electronics to build a controller very similar to your design. I especially like your idea of the auto switch that interrupts your BK or HLT when the RIMS needs juice. Would you mind sharing your wiring diagram for your controller?
I also like your angled RIMs tube.
Thanks for sharing your design!
 
I also used flow sensors in my design but to cut the power to the rims element if the flow of liquid through it stops ... I used a $10 stainless flow switch to accomplish this and I also use a flow meter for a visual reference on both flow rate as well as color and clarity.
I took an idea I got from alphaomega and ran with it by using a stainless steel cartridge heater for the element. its 25" long and only 1000w (ULWD and 240v) but does a great job since it pairs up nice with my 24v DC pumps which only recirculate my mash through it at about 2 gallons per minute. I used a 1" camlock for quick disassemble for cleaning/inspection but so far after about 10 brews with it I have yet to get any buildup except the time I shut off the pump and forgot to kill the rims element (hence the reason for my flow switch...) the rims tube with flow meter and switch cost me about $125 to build. and I can drop the flow down to about .5 gallons per minute before the element automatically shuts off.... I have toyed with putting an alarm in to notify me of stuck sparges but in over 50 brew sessions with this setup and about 15 with my triple stage false bottom I have had none yet so...

here are more pics in my build thread below,

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=497593&page=10

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Weird request, but I'm trying to figure out a sparge/mash recirculation option and would like to see some more pics of your silicone tubing recirculation arm. Could you post some more?

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Hafmpty, currently I'm using 1/2" silicone tubing for the RIMS return and 3/8" silicone for the sparge arm. I cannibalized a couple of stainless BBQ skewers and bent them such that they hold up the tubes just above the grain bed. For each tube, I used a silicone bottle stopper to plug one end and I used hollow punch to put holes along both sides of the tube for a fairly even spread of wort or water on the top of the grain bed.
 
LavaStream, my wiring diagram is on a different computer, but will try to post it soon. After I disconnect the supply and exit tubes at the end of a brew day, the uphill angle of the RIMS tube does drain well from the inlet port.
 
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