Setting grain mill gap with credit card

[RyPA]

Hey guys

Recently bought a Cereal Killer and am trying to get the gap set for my brew day this weekend. For those that have set the gap with a credit card, do you set it so the credit card can slide between the rollers easily, or so that you need to turn the mill to get it to go through? I tried a few different settings last night and put some grains through, but nervous about running some weight through it and it coming out too fine for my brew day, as I have no rice hulls on hand.

Thanks

 

[Golddiggie]

I've always been a bit baffled by the use of a CC to set your mill gap. With feeler gauges being so cheap, why not just get a set and then set the gap that works best with your system? You can easily get a set for under $10. Then you have them and can fully tune the gap setting as needed. I have two sets for brewing (one straight, one with a bend) as well as a couple of sets my father had.

 

[9Kegs]

+1 on feeler gauges, set it to where the rollers begin grabbing
Do not over tighten the eye bolts because it closes the gap. Snug them up and then tighten the locking nuts.

 

[Golddiggie]

It's also easy to periodically check the gap with the feeler gauges. I have mine set to .035". I might set the gap to .034" for the coming batch (planned for Sunday). Even if you check the thickness of the CC you want to use, with it being plastic, I wouldn't assume the thickness either initially or over time.

 

[hout17]

I also agree a cheap set of feeler gauges are the way to go.

 

[PCABrewing]

Hey guys

Recently bought a Cereal Killer and am trying to get the gap set for my brew day this weekend. For those that have set the gap with a credit card, do you set it so the credit card can slide between the rollers easily, or so that you need to turn the mill to get it to go through? I tried a few different settings last night and put some grains through, but nervous about running some weight through it and it coming out too fine for my brew day, as I have no rice hulls on hand.

Thanks

In regards to How:
Whether using a credit card or a feeler gauge, make sure you are pushing the gauge straight through between the rollers.
Play around with it and you'll see what I mean.
The gauge should drag slightly as it passes through but not require a lot of force. You don't roll it through.
Be sure to check both ends of the rollers because you have an adjuster at each end.
Then also check the middle. If there is a big variance between middle and ends your rollers aren't true. Nothing you can do about that but good to know.
Also, after checking, turn the mill a turn and recheck.
It's usually a bit of trial and error till you land on a setting that works for you.

You don't need to run a whole pound through to test, you can drop a table spoon over the length of the rollers to get an idea where you're at.

 

[MaxStout]

No guarantee of consistent thickness of one credit card vs another. I measured mine with calipers--0.026" thick, but I've heard other people finding theirs around 0.035 or so.

Another vote for a feeler gauge. A few bucks at the auto parts store.

 

[RyPA]

All - I do plan on getting gauges but just trying to get situated for this weekend

PCABrewing - Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. My question would apply to CC or feeler gauges, as you pointed out. And yes I did test with a tbs of grain

 

[KeizerBrewr]

When my buddy first got his new grain mill(five years ago), he used his CC to get the initial setting, then adjusted from there once he found his feeler gauges. The biggest thing is getting it set evenly and doing a test run.

 

[PCABrewing]

Another vote for a feeler gauge. A few bucks at the auto parts store.

I just have to make sure there is no motor oil on mine from being used for valve lash setting

 

[IslandLizard]

I measured mine with calipers--0.026" thick, but I've heard other people finding theirs around 0.035 or so.

Kudos to you, wearing a thin credit card!

 

[PCABrewing]

Kudos to you, wearing a thin credit card!

I think the stainless steel cards are thinner like that.
And impossible to destroy without a grinder!
They probably stopped issuing then because they offered to take back the old ones when they replaced them and it couldn't have been cheap.

 

[MaxStout]

Kudos to you, wearing a thin credit card!

Thin, like my bank account.

Probably just Wells Fargo saving a couple pennies per card in plastic.

 

[IslandLizard]

Probably just Wells Fargo saving a couple pennies per card in plastic.

And much better for the planet than those cards with a slab of steel inside. Ever try to destroy one of those because they sent a new one for some unexplained reason? Oh, you can mail them back, yeah.

 

[PCABrewing]

And much better for the planet than those cards with a slab of steel inside. Ever try to destroy one of those because they sent a new one for some unexplained reason? Oh, you can mail them back, yeah.

I had to return TWO sets of them because the number got compromised at the ticket kiosk at the train station.
I took them to the stand grinder in the garage to kill the chip and the number etc. before I sent them back.
They were tough, I'll give them that.
Who ever thought that idea up and WHY.

 

[MaxStout]

And much better for the planet than those cards with a slab of steel inside. Ever try to destroy one of those because they sent a new one for some unexplained reason? Oh, you can mail them back, yeah.

We got new cards after a potential data breach a few years ago. Ran the old ones through our little office paper shredder--machine barely slowed down.

Never had one with a steel plate inside, but my first few credit cards had embossed numbers to run in these:

I always insisted on keeping the carbon copy, as there was concern that someone might keep the slip and charge stuff later. Credit card fraud, '70s style.

 

[PCABrewing]

We got new cards after a potential data breach a few years ago. Ran the old ones through our little office paper shredder--machine barely slowed down.

Never had one with a steel plate inside, but my first few credit cards had embossed numbers to run in these:

I always insisted on keeping the carbon copy, as there was concern that someone might keep the slip and charge stuff later. Credit card fraud, '70s style.

I remember those well!

 

[Dland]

Get a good feeler gauge set, set your roller gap as needed, don't be afraid to experiment with different crushes. Make sure gap is the same on both ends of rollers.

Should have a gauge set anyway in case you need adjust your valve lifters and set your points. {;

 

[bracconiere]

i never really wanted to put my card through my mill, so have always used feeler gauges....


i'm going to be a pioneer here, if you're really cheap a sheet of paper acording to google is .004"'s

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=thickness+of+sheet+of+paper

that would be an awesome use for junk mail!!!! run it through your mill to make sure it's set right, and you haven't lost your mind!

like when people ask how often they should calibrate something, if a sheet of paper is 0.004" then every time you get your desired mill gap double check it! seeing if it jams or feeds it to the trash can....

edit: 7, 8 sheets of paper should be fine....

 

[IslandLizard]

i never really wanted to put my card through my mill,

No-one here said or inferred to run a CC through a grain mill. It can be used as a gauge to set a certain gap...

that would be an awesome use for junk mail!!!!

...or run junk mail through a grain mill...

if a sheet of paper is 0.004" then every time you get your desired mill gap double check it! seeing if it jams or feeds it to the trash can....

... or sheets of paper!

Thickness of paper depends on its weight. Are you referring to 80# copy paper?

 

[bracconiere]

No-one here said or inferred to run a CC through a grain mill. It can be used as a gauge to set a certain gap...

For those that have set the gap with a credit card, do you set it so the credit card can slide between the rollers easily, or so that you need to turn the mill to get it to go through?

... or sheets of paper!

huh?

edit: did i just pull a 'data' from TNG and miss the punch line of a joke? lol

 

[bracconiere]

and joking aside, not that the paper is a bad idea, i just folded up a return envelope for a bill collector to try it out, and 7 thick worked in my 0.028" mill perfectly....


but i use feeler gauges as everyone else has already said. i loosen the mill first, then get my gauge set, stick it in tighten the mill down on it just tight enough to where i get resistence, but can pull it in and out.....and the rollers move...and do the same for both sides...

 

[MikeCo]

Before I had feeler gauges, I used a credit card that I verified with a caliper at 0.030 inch thickness. I set the gap so the card would go through with just enough resitance to turn the rollers.

 

[McMullan]

Sorry, I couldn't find one for feeler gauges and the credit card ones were too rude, but I thought this one was quite funny:

A physicist, an engineer and an IT guy are driving along in a car...
Suddenly, the engine makes a spurting noise, turns itself off, and the car comes to a halt.

The physicist says "No need to worry, my friends. We are on a descent, and the degree of incline means I can get out and push the car with enough force to get us back in motion".

The engineer answers "No, dear friend, it is most likely an engine failure. Most probably a dead spark plug or a faulty drive belt. I can get out, open the bonnet and get it fixed in no time".

The IT guy, who was silent up until this point, exclaims "Hey, guys, guys! What if we all get out of the car, and then get back in again? Maybe it will work!"

 

[bracconiere]

Sorry, I couldn't find one for feeler gauges and the credit card ones were too rude, but I thought this one was quite funny:

A physicist, an engineer and an IT guy are driving along in a car...
Suddenly, the engine makes a spurting noise, turns itself off, and the car comes to a halt.

The physicist says "No need to worry, my friends. We are on a descent, and the degree of incline means I can get out and push the car with enough force to get us back in motion".

The engineer answers "No, dear friend, it is most likely an engine failure. Most probably a dead spark plug or a faulty drive belt. I can get out, open the bonnet and get it fixed in no time".

The IT guy, who was silent up until this point, exclaims "Hey, guys, guys! What if we all get out of the car, and then get back in again? Maybe it will work!"

i'd hope the IT guy would have a code reader, the engineer could fix the problem...i'd assume the physist would just sit in the back seat, nagging are we there yet! lol

but really, this is what i use...and as i said i just pull out 0.025" and 0.003" one put them together, loosen the mill, then tighten it down on it just till it grips and the rollers move...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2926988036...lbwFjQR/pj9WGRIIqXYCmLNg2VRS|tkp:BFBMjMKxt7hf
but if memory serves, OP said for those that a use a CC, so i'd just say same princable would apply and, lossen tighten down just enough so it grabs?

 

[DarrellQ]

I have been using a feeler gauge set at .035 for over 20 millings. Works great, efficiency has been spot-on until recent problems with Anvil Foundry!

 

[RufusBrewer]

I knew one LHBS that was used a US dime to set his mill gap. He sword by it and used it consistently for years.

 

[McMullan]

Curious, I just checked the gap between my MM2 rollers with feeler gauges (1.2mm for my liking) then tried a debit card. It was actually spot on if the embossing on the card was included. I'm assuming card dimensions are universal. At least I now know what to do if I can't find the feeler gauges.

 

[Golddiggie]

I would NOT assume that all cards are going to be the same thickness. Plus, not all systems are going to work optimally with the same gap setting. It's why the malt mills are adjustable.

Your 1.2mm thickness is .047", which is WAY over what my mill is set to (.034-.035").