setting 2352 pid for the first time

[JONNYROTTEN]

I was under the impression when using a pid you set for strike temp,then set for mash temp and leave it alone for an hour.Then bring to a boil and dial down on manual mode to about 80%. After messing with it for a little bit I called Aubrins.I went through all the parimeters and they said everything was correct(factory setting) I then asked how to do the autotune.I did the autotune and THEN they said "wait,you want to keep your temp at 150 but had it set to 212 when you did the autotune.Now it will automaticly go to 212" Then it hit exactly 5:00 and they said were closed and left me hangin. So I guess my question is how does everyone set autotune and are there basic setup procedures that everyone uses.

 

[stlbeer]

JR,

Autotuning your PID let's the PID learn the amount of heat that can be put into your system and how much heat is lost for your system. In a heating system, controlled by a PID, the objective for the PID is to get the material (water/wort) to the set point without going over by anymore than the limit set for the controller. In our case that's usually one degree Fahrenheit. In this manner, the controller will heat the material and as it gets closer to the set point it will start reducing the heating cycle percentage with in the total cycle frequency (usually 2 seconds for brewers). Autotuning is normally performed at a temperature near strike temps. I did mine at 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Follow the procedure in the manual for autotuning. Set your set point then start heating your material. When you're about 5-10 degrees from your set point start autotuning. The PID should cycle through heating and not heating 2 or 3 times to learn your system. Make sure you set your flow rates like you would if you were actually brewing. It can take up to 30 mins. Report your results back here.

Good luck!

It sounds like you're trying to do everything with one PID, are you Brew in a Bag?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Yes one PID BIAB.
Ill redo the autotune at 150.
SO autotuning is just to keep the temp in a range of 1 deg of any temp.The lady from aubrins said whatever I had the temp set to when I did the autotune it would automatically go back to that temp.More like a memory.Two totally different things.
If so does that mean the auto tuning is setting a power % to the element for a specific temp that it was set to during autotune. So if I did the autotune at 212 the power % would be higher.So if I then set it to 150 I would overshoot the 1 deg due to the element kicking on and off at a higher power %. Just trying to understand the logistics of how this thing works.

 

[Brumateur]

Autotune procedure just calculate P,I and D parameters optimal for present setup. If you set a different target temperature PID will try to maintain the new temperature not a temperature you set during autotune.
However if your new temperature is far enough from autotune temp - parameters will not be optimal. So either you heating will be not fast as possible or you can overshoot temporarily.

 

[stlbeer]

Yes one PID BIAB.
Ill redo the autotune at 150.

Yes.

SO autotuning is just to keep the temp in a range of 1 deg of any temp.

Yes, ANY temp, once tuned.

The lady from aubrins said whatever I had the temp set to when I did the autotune it would automatically go back to that temp.

Yes, when the autotuning session is over it will go to the set point you set.

If so does that mean the auto tuning is setting a power % to the element for a specific temp that it was set to during autotune.

You're missing the point of autotune. Autotune is for the PID to learn the amount of heat gain and loss YOUR system experiences. Everyone's is different. You autotune around the point you use the most because it's more accurate. I mean, you don't calibrate a freezer thermometer in boiling water. Remember also that when the power is on, it is on 100%. The percentage that it is on is determined by P, I & D settings. For example, when it's set to 50%, in a 2 second cycle it will be full on for 1 second and full off for 1 second. Does that make sense?

There's no point to autotune for boiling. Boiling is boiling. It won't get hotter because the element is on longer. The boil will be more violent, but it won't get hotter except that concentrating wort has less water and more sugar concentrations so it will get hotter for that reason.

So if I then set it to 150 I would overshoot the 1 deg due to the element kicking on and off at a higher power %. Just trying to understand the logistics of how this thing works.

If this is still not making sense, read more about it and play around with the PID. I found I had to read the manual several times before it made sense to me.

Good luck and keep asking questions.

Paul

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Now I get it.Thanks for your help and encouraging questions.These are a tad techy.