Secondary fermentation
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Are you aging the beer on the pumpkin? Or was pumpkin added to the boil? You generally do no need to use a secondary unless you are aging it on fruit or wood, or unless you have some other specific reason. You do not add more yeast, in fact one of the reasons some people rack to a secondary is to pull the beer off of the yeast cake. The beer shouldn't be racked to a secondary until it is done fermenting.
What yeast strain?
Probably around the 1.024 range. Might need to swirl the carboy once in a while to keep the yesdt active.
Yeah. Once you see the krauzen staryvto drop you couldctake a gravity reading but since nottingham is fairly flooculent id guess it will need a swirl ever so oftrn.
What does that mean fairly fluorescent for yeast how does that matter? Bing new to brewing just seems like so much info and obviously fiffers from person to person but it is nice to find someone who know what there talking about. I have a question I bottled my first batch my og was 1.19 my final after three weeks was 1.09 I couldn't get it any lower do I bottled any way to tell if it is carbing up. Two pieces of I for no secondary because I made in mr beer I now have acquired a second. Works for me with only bring 2 gallons and I'm using extract with grain steeping. So no bottling bucket I used carb drops I Ty for ur help
The difference in whether you use a secondary or primary only will be insignificant compared to the importance of pitch rate, yeast health, oxygen level and fermentation temperature. This is alway true but becomes exponentially more important when brewing high gravity beers like this.
Adding yeast to secondary would not only defeat the purpose of this step, it would be very unlikely to help in any way. With plenty of alcohol already present at this stage, the new yeast will never even start fermenting. You'll just be adding sediment.
What's your aeration technique? This will have a big influence on your final attenuation and is very important for big beers...
Adding yeast to secondary would not only defeat the purpose of this step, it would be very unlikely to help in any way. With plenty of alcohol already present at this stage, the new yeast will never even start fermenting. You'll just be adding sediment.
What's your aeration technique? This will have a big influence on your final attenuation and is very important for big beers...
You should read the book "Yeast". Don't take this the wrong way but I don't have much confidence in your high gravity beer if you don't know what aeration is. It's one thing to not have your process dialed in, it's quite another to not even know what it is. Good luck!!
bobk34 said:
I'm not trying to beat you down, quite the opposite. In any endeavor it's wise to set yourself up for success by starting small and simple first to build skill and experience. A 10%+ pumpkin beer is neither small nor simple. I hope it turns out great, I really do. I just don't think it will and I hope you read, pick a simpler recipe and jump right back on the horse...
Flocculation means how well the the yeast settles out.
If the bottles were left at room/fermentation temps then usually 3 weeks is a good avg for carbing but only way to tell is to open one up.
I have no idea what any of this means and I'm suspecting you're just f-ing with us about bottling a beer that was at 1.090 but if you're serious that is scary. Those things are going to explode.
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