Secondary carboy size?

[Brasco20]

I have 2 carboys that are 6.5 gallon and one that is 6 gallons. I know that during the primary the space is ok because the fermentation pushes the o2 out of the airlock, but what about the secondary? Im doing 5 gallon batches, and wondering if the airspace in the secondary can harm the beer? Should i be using 5 gallon carboys for my secondary, or are the bigger ones ok to use?

Thanks for any help.

 

[944play]

I suggest 5-gallon kegs instead of carboys. Cmd-V!

Built in handles!
Built-in diptube
Unbreakable
You can carbonate in it (naturally or forced)
You can serve from it
Closed transfer possible/easy
Easier to purge w/CO2
No light intrusion
Smaller footprint than bucket/carboy
Same(ish) price as carboy
Bigger aperture than carboy (for dry-hopping, cleaning, etc.)

 

[arover]

If you are looking to stick with what you have, those larger carboys should be fine. The beer will continually let out CO2 after you rack it, which will keep a good layer between your beer and the O2. For long term storage though, I would think about something smaller, like a 5 gallon carboy (or keg, though if you don't see yourself moving to full kegging at any point in the foreseeable future, I'd still stick to a carboy, as it has less moving parts = less to infect).

 

[Brasco20]

Thanks for the replies! I have 2 kegs, but to get them to seal i have to turn up the gas and pull on the lid. Is it ok for the beer to be carbed while it is still fermenting? Also, i dont know what dry hopping is, im still new to this stuff. Im assuming its adding hops to the secondary. If so, how do you sanitize before adding it, and what is the purpose of dry hopping?

 

[pcollins]

I vote for the smaller carboys.

I usually slightly over-brew when I make a batch. I know that I'm going to get losses at every transfer from the stuff left in the bottom of the carboy. By the time I get to the 5 gallon secondary carboy my beer is usually right up at the neck with very little airspace in there.

That said, +1 for arover's suggestion. No worries if there is a larger amount of space, the beer will still be producing CO2 to protect it.

 

[arover]

Thanks for the replies! I have 2 kegs, but to get them to seal i have to turn up the gas and pull on the lid. Is it ok for the beer to be carbed while it is still fermenting? Also, i dont know what dry hopping is, im still new to this stuff. Im assuming its adding hops to the secondary. If so, how do you sanitize before adding it, and what is the purpose of dry hopping?

I think there have been studies done on fermentation under pressure. I don't think it has any effect until you get to higher levels, so enough CO2 to seal the keg shouldn't really do anything...but if it's in the secondary, it shouldn't be fermenting, now should it?

Hops themselves are pretty sanitary due to their acid content, so you can just toss the hops in there (during secondary). I dry hopped for the first time not too long ago, and can't believe what I've been missing out on!

 

[ajf]

I vote for not using a secondary at all, unless there really is a reason for it, such as dry hopping, or very long aging. I brew about 25 times a year, but only need a secondary for about 2 or 3 of those brews.

-a.

 

[NTabb]

I 100% agree with ajf. Unless there's a reason for it, forget about using a secondary. Too many times people transfer to a secondary too quickly and never give the yeast enough time to clean up after themselves.

 

[Brasco20]

Arover, i thought the beer was still slowly fermenting while its in the secondary, maybe im wrong, im still a noob. When dry hopping why not throw it in the primary after the fermenting has slowed down, and what types of beers do you dry hop?

 

[arover]

Arover, i thought the beer was still slowly fermenting while its in the secondary, maybe im wrong, im still a noob. When dry hopping why not throw it in the primary after the fermenting has slowed down, and what types of beers do you dry hop?

I personally secondary to smaller containers to free up some primaries. But if you have no need to, like, for instance, you have plenty of extra fermenters and you're going to bottle within a month or so, I'd leave it in the primary. Unless you want to dry hop. You always want to be beyond sure your beer is done fermenting though, and even then some to give the yeast time to clean up (You never want to rack off an active fermentation, it'll stress the yeast and likely kill the process). The most common way to check this is to ensure a stable gravity reading 3 days in a row. Give it at least 2 weeks in the primary I'd say, even longer depending on what you're fermenting.

You want to rack to secondary when dry hopping though, at least I do, to get it off the older hops and get an overall more clean flavor. I've found the joys in dry hopping almost any beer you want to get some extra aroma and slight flavor out of in regards to the hops. Whether it be an imperial stout, or a pale ale, it's up to you. That's the beauty of it all.