Schematic input

[milesvdustin]

I modified one of PJs diagrams to suit my needs, and I am just wanting a second set of eyes on it before I pull the trigger on parts. I essentially added the pause and reset switches on the timer, and added a contactor so that power can be completely isolated from the ssr and elements entirely before I am ready for power to be there. This gives me that safety option as well as the PID. Two different steps that I have to do before I turn power on to the element to brew. I know ssrs only leak a small amount of current but better safe than sorry, and only a 20 dollar or so addition to my panel.

 

[P-J]

So sorry.

My chances of identifying my original diagram or being able to see and read the modifications that you made are near out of the question.

The diagram that you posted is so small that I cannot read it.

Help me help you.

P-J

 

[milesvdustin]

Alright i used paint to modify it, how do I make it save the image bigger? I'm a photo editing noob.

 

[P-J]

Alright i used paint to modify it, how do I make it save the image bigger? I'm a photo editing noob.

Just post the link where I posted the original diagram that I drew.
Or: At least give me the file name of the drawing (right click on the original drawing to get the source address) so that I can find my master copy of the composition drawing.

With that, I can edit the original to fit your needs.

I also need to understand the changes that you want to make in the diagram.

Please help me help you. No???

P-J

 

[milesvdustin]

Ok, ingot the original from the very first post in this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/control-panel-planning-build-339340/ I am wanting to delete one pump outlet and switch, add pause and reset buttons to the timer, and add a contactor that will isolate all power from the ssr and element switch until I activate the contactor. ( extra safety measure) if that is not needed then I will not include it, but i figure one line of power will reach an element at all times before the pid is actuated. If I'm being paranoid let me know. I thank you again p-j, you are a huge help! My background is in avionics, not household type stuff.

 

[P-J]

Ok, ingot the original from the very first post in this thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/control-panel-planning-build-339340/ I am wanting to delete one pump outlet and switch, add pause and reset buttons to the timer, and add a contactor that will isolate all power from the ssr and element switch until I activate the contactor. ( extra safety measure) if that is not needed then I will not include it, but I figure one line of power will reach an element at all times before the pid is actuated. If I'm being paranoid let me know. I thank you again p-j, you are a huge help! My background is in avionics, not household type stuff.

I'm diligently working on the diagram for you. I understand that you have not ordered parts for it yet. (I'm hoping you have not.) If that is true, please let me know as I want to change the sources for the things you will need to do the build.

Auber Instruments now has a really good selection of components and I would like to include them in your build. This will allow you to order a lot of the 'stuff' from them instead of a dozen other places.

My intent is to complete the diagram with the specific parts involved and I'm almost there.

OH: Another thing. I've completed the addition of the contactor to isolate the power going to the elements. The switch that selects the kettle involved (in the original diagram) is a "center off" switch. That switch by its self provides power isolation to the elements. With that said, If you still want to have the contactor in place it is not a problem at all. I've already placed it in the drawing.

At this moment I'm trying to sort out the nitty gritty so that you have a workable and viable plan..

Please let me know.

Thank,

P-J

 

[milesvdustin]

You are awesome, thanks! I already planned on ordering almost every single component from auber, you are right they do have a lot. One stop shopping! The led illuminated push button switches look slick.

I didn't think about that switch being center off. That totally does the job of what the contactor would, so I can save an easy 20 bucks there.

 

[P-J]

Well, I've been messing with the diagram a whole bunch and doing mind jumps in the process.

I decided on a plan for you and your build.

It starts with eliminating the contactor as I placed a high current center off switch to control and deliver the power to the element sets.

With that, I'd like you to take a look at this plan and see if it will fit your needs.

As always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Switch #1 is the key to success. It is a 240V - 30A - DPDT - Center Off switch.
Link for switch: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S823%2FU

I sure hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[milesvdustin]

You are the man!!!!! I owe you big time that is exactly what I want to do. I'll send you some of my beer or something!

 

[milesvdustin]

That switch shows on their website it is only rated for 125VAC?

 

[stlbeer]

I think that's each post is rated for 125V. For the 240v you have to switch both legs and each leg is 120V. Review the drawing closely and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[milesvdustin]

I see what you are talking about. With the element indicator lights wired that way, won't they flicker as the ssr kicks on and off?

 

[P-J]

That switch shows on their website it is only rated for 125VAC?

Go to the website for the switch again and then click on this link:
Datasheets S Series Toggle Switch High Cap

Here is a small image of the data file for that switch. It is rated 250V 30A - resistive load.