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Sanke keg further revealed!

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wilserbrewer said:
I actually have grown to like the spiral rings in that they are compressing the large o-ring upon installation. Not sure a regular snap ring will compress the o-ring seal as well.
Thanks for the tips on the spiral ring - sounds like a good technique.

The snap ring is just as thick as the spiral ring, and it compresses the seal just fine. As a result, it takes a little effort to get the snap ring seated correctly. Even so, I find it far easier to use than the spiral ring.
 
wilserbrewer said:
I also struggled w/ the installation of the spiral sanke rings. The method that I've finally become skilled at works well for me and I will share. All that is needed is a small pair of channel lock pliers (say 6"0). A regular pair of pliers would probably also work but the offset working angle of the channel locks helps.

All you do is get the spiral ring started by hand which is usually close to 1 revolution. The point at which it becomes difficult is when the spiral ring is doubled in the retaining groove. Position the remaining free end of the ring inside the neck of the keg adjacent to the retaining groove.

Begin forcing the ring in the groove w/ the pliers by squeezing between the snap ring and the outside neck of the keg, well behind the unseated portion . Slowly proceed around the keg neck w/ the pliers and the ring will spiral into the groove.

Only move the pliers 1/8 - 1/4" w/ every compression. If the ring seats in the groove, great, move forward and squeeze again. If the ring is stubborn, back up and make sure the preceeding portion is full seated!

W/ a little practice it's a 30 second job.

I actually have grown to like the spiral rings in that they are compressing the large o-ring upon installation. Not sure a regular snap ring will compress the o-ring seal as well.

Good luck, it's tricky at first but will become easy.

Mike

I do the same type of thing, I just take the metal end of a screw driver and slide it around in a circle, and it pushes the ring back in. If I have one thats fighting me a little bit, I just pull out the hammer and tap it on the back end of the screw driver to nudge the ring back in.

The first one was a PITA, but once I got the hang of it (I had 5 kegs to practice on all at once), it became a 10 second job. I like the spiral rings now.
 
Oh I've used the hammer a bit, a bit too much during the early stages of sanke training.

Once you've got the technique I'm sure it works fine. I must admit as a noob I got a little aggressive w/ the hammer and slightly dinged the precious mechanicals. I try to stay away from the hammer in that if I begin to struggle, I just reach for the bigger hammer and then bad things happen.

I'm gonna have to try just sliding the srewdriver around the inside of the ring, sounds easy enough, thanks.
 
If you were able to make a corney top with a sanke adapter on it, this is something that i personally would be very interested in... Does anybody make them, because i have defiantly seen them at a few microbreweries, and would love to get my hand on them.
 
Oh I forgot...one more tip on the sanke spiral rings. Be careful removing them, if they become deformed or stretched like the one in Yuri's photo on the previous page, replace it asap. Even slightly deformed they can be stubborn as heLL on installation. The snap ring is probably a little stronger in this regard.
 
Ok. I've got a snap ring that fits pretty well. However when the O-Ring on the spear is put on, I just can't compress the spear enough to get the snap ring in. Are my puny arms not strong enough to compress it?
 
RockfordWhite said:
If you were able to make a corney top with a sanke adapter on it, this is something that i personally would be very interested in... Does anybody make them, because i have defiantly seen them at a few microbreweries, and would love to get my hand on them.

I bought some of these from Irregularpulse.

I pulled the rubber cap off one of original carney taps and all it looks like is they sealed them with some epoxy and capped them. Going to clean them up this weekend. Still need to get the tap and CO2 .No more bottles :ban:

keg.jpg
 
I would like a bit more information on pulling out the hard rubber seal.
Thanks,

MOD EDIT: don't quote a whole series of pictures - it only clutters the thread
 
I simply pulled the seal out. With a little effort, pulling straight out, it separated from the spear. I can't really describe it any better than that.
 
In order to compress the oring to put in the snap ring they make a tool that fits around the outside of the spear housing and has a jack screw that pushes the spear down so you can easily insert the snap ring. This is available at St Pats (Scroll down to the bottom of the page). If you have a machinist friend he could make a simple tool that would do the same thing.
 
St. Pats sure has a nice collection of items, prices reflect. Too rich for my blood. I would rather machine a ring and split it then add bolts and a crossbar like a puller. Simple as two can be made off one ring with parts in stock.
 
St. Pats sure has a nice collection of items, prices reflect. Too rich for my blood. I would rather machine a ring and split it then add bolts and a crossbar like a puller. Simple as two can be made off one ring from parts in stock.
 
A good way to take off the spring retainer from the spear is to get a pole/pipe that fits outside the spear, and put some rubber bands around - or put a bolt through - the end of the pipe. Then, just push down the your pipe and turn while the end is between you're feet, and it will come right off.
 
Yeah, I use Channel locks wrapped in a towel and then push and turn between the top of two other kegs or similar height objects. Then I simply push and turn it back on with the dip-tube top on the floor. Very easy and no extra tools. Matter of fact, I only use a small screwdriver/pliers/and channel lock on my Sankes.
 
I got 2 5 gal sanke kegs and i would like to dispense from them. I pulled apart the spears and cleaned them but one of the hard black caps will not come off the tube and i have damaged it. anyone know were i can find that piece? i also would like to replace the oring. anyone know were to order these parts?
 
The original site is actually a fairly good tutorial if you are meticulous about reading and matching what you've read with the pictures. Wasn't sure if I was ever going to get that damn thing off, but now I have a sanke keg to use for my wedding!! Thanks!
 
Yuri's method works a treat. I put a shop towel on my bench vice first, as it has lots of oil on it (not as clean as Yuri's for sure). I never seem to be able to get the snapring back in the perfect spot. No worries though - a small flathead fits in the groove/notch that allows the spear assembly out. Just some levering and you can pop the ring out this way. You don't have to start from the very end of the ring....
 
You don't need any fancy tools - just a big wrench. Just press and turn, catching one of the tabs with the edge of the wrench face, until the retainer ring is unlocked. It doesn't take a ton of strength.

Are you using a crescent wrench to re assemble the spear and push down while turning the retainer into place?

"Welcome back to life my old thread"
 
Also having trouble getting the hard rubber seal (over the ball) out.

Btw, thanks for the awesome take-apart pix. Very nice! :)

Anyway, I'm currently just letting super-hot water run on it, hoping that softens up whatever crud is holding the whole thing together (this is a moderately skanky retired keg that was not nicely prepared at its end of life. Thankfully, the keg, itself, came clean, as well as all the spear outer parts. Now I'm just trying to get it apart to clean the innards.

...Well, and to learn how it's done :)

But, MAN that little black ring can be tough! Am I right to assume that taking tools (screwdriver, channel locks) to it will totally ruin it?

Thanks!
 
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