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Rock Bottom Mig Welder - Vaper 90 A; Worth It?

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user 246304

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Guys, can use some advise on this cheap MIG. In the event I end up welding my own frame, by necessity will be mild and likely 16 gauge, so within this unit's 1/8" max. Duty cycle of 10% sucks, I know. Outside of that, know nothing about this brand.

I see on Amazon they compare it to a cheap HF. To build a frame, is it worth it? Meaning, will it get the job done before dying? I figure, even if it costs $180, that's a significant savings over what my welder - I think he's reasonable, btw - would cost.

I'm only really looking, as the welder isn't the best at responding (I'm pretty patient - I'm talking months now, unanswered queries). If doing it myself both teaches something, and saves substantially, I figure it's a win-win.

Anyway - worth it, or heavy paperweight?
 
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I don't wanna come off like a welding snob, but there's a lot to be said for owning and welding with a high quality welder. I tried a cheap Lincoln before I bought my Miller. Makes a big difference. Readily available consumables should be a high priority.

I'd buy a used Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln before I bought a new chinese Harbor freight or Vaper.
 
Thanks Sleepy, very helpful advice. Besides, if I get in to this more, I'd like the option of gas shielding anyway.

Much appreciated.
 
I'll second what Sleepy says. I've never known anyone that liked the small flux core wire welders. Shipyards use the heck out of them, but they run big thick wires on machines that cost tens of thousands.

Miller makes Hobart machines, and most of the consumables interchange. I bought a 110 volt Hobart maybe 15 years ago, and it's still going strong.
 
You should be able to find a used Miller or Lincoln MIG welder for a similar cost on Craigslist. Another option is to bolt together a frame with Unistrut in the electrical supply section of Home Depot or Lowes.

Chris
 
Gotta also think about the stuff that goes with it such as welding gloves and helmet. Highly suggest an auto darkening helmet as it makes things way easier. I actually just got into stick (arc/smaw) welding and like it. I too bought an off brand welder (amico power) but it has worked great so far. If you have never welded before you will want to go through some consumables first and practice on similar metal.
 
Good points. Mig requires shielding gas, so a convenient source is needed. A stick welder just needs power and electrodes, which can be found world wide.

In a pinch, you can even skip the machine and commercial power. Google welding with car batteries or alternators and you'll see what the off-roaders do.
 
Good points. Mig requires shielding gas, so a convenient source is needed. A stick welder just needs power and electrodes, which can be found world wide.

In a pinch, you can even skip the machine and commercial power. Google welding with car batteries or alternators and you'll see what the off-roaders do.


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+1 on the hobart recommendation if you want a good less expensive mig welder. A lincoln or hobart stick would work if you just need to get the job done and are willing to spend some time with the grinder.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I have to measure how much I intend to weld after this job, and that's pretty iffy at this point. I was trying to make it a good decision cost-wise, in terms of getting this frame done. I'm at least one-job familiar with flux core MIG, so that's where my mind went. Have to do some thinking.

Of course, I really want to do the most difficult one, TIG. I foresee an entire brewery of gleaming 316 that I put together. But on the recommendation of mastering at least oxy-acetylene, might as well go from there through SMAW, MIG, and finally TIG. Have to do some thinking, again.

What I most like about MIG is that a total doofus like me can point and shoot, and still come up with at least a functionally adequate piece.
 
Of course, I really want to do the most difficult one, TIG. I foresee an entire brewery of gleaming 316 that I put together. But on the recommendation of mastering at least oxy-acetylene, might as well go from there through SMAW, MIG, and finally TIG. Have to do some thinking, again.


IMHO TIG would become a separate hobby to be done right, which is something I dont want. I have a good MIG welder that can get work done when I need it and the welds come out strong, sometimes they look good too. Sometimes. I dont do it enough to get all the settings and hand eye coordination down to match what the weld should look like in my mind.
 
Yes it will do the job
Learn how to use it first.

I own a welding shop. The Machine will work for the intended application. Just don't expect to make a living with it.
David
 
Thanks guys. To be honest, if it lasts through this job then dies, I come out ahead. This is the logic, anyway. I have to weigh this against whether I intend to keep going, then there's no question. But for the cost of the Handler, I could basically buy this crap machine, helmet, wire, and a good part of the needed metal - labor's free.

That's my thinking anyway.

David, thanks. No, I have very little experience. Only experience is using flux-core MIG to build my previous brewing frame, 20ish years ago. Built out fine, but was one ugly mutha. So much so, she was known as "Ugly Betty." Worked her to death and she did fine, though. Still is, apparently - sold her up in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in 2005. Mild steel, never saw one drop of coating.
 
I bought my Miller MIG welder a few years ago and like it a lot.
You mentioned buying a welder just to make your brew stand, but once you have a welder, you will start repairing and building things you never even though about previously. Welders open up a whole new range of possibilities.
 
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+1 on the hobart recommendation if you want a good less expensive mig welder. A lincoln or hobart stick would work if you just need to get the job done and are willing to spend some time with the grinder.


I love this guy in the picture.
"We don't need no stink'in welder's mask, gloves, insulated rod clamp...."
 

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