RO brand recommendation

[RyPA]

I bought a 5-stage RO system from purewaterclub.com for $100 around 2-3 years ago (they have since closed) and it has worked great (low PPM, no issues). Yesterday I did a pre-filter, membrane, and post-filter change and found that one of the factory installed pre-filters had a plastic end cap missing (you could see the glue on the filter base where the cap once was), which was odd as I thought that would be required to make it properly seal/filter. I then found that none of the pre-filters seem to seat in the housings in a way that would make a seal - they kind of just rest on a mismatched pattern and get closed in. Oddly, I got good PPM so either the pre-filters were working, or the RO membrane was constantly on overtime. When I got everything switched out and went through the purge steps, I am getting no output from the RO membrane, it all goes out the drain. The RO membrane is the exact same size and looks identical to the original.

With that experience, I am wondering if this cheaper kit is just a frankenstein setup that does not have filters that actually fit the housings. I started looking around at APEC and iSpring systems, and would like to hear what everyone has had success with. I am looking for an undersink setup as I use RO for drinking water, coffee, cooking, and most importantly, beer.

 

[DonT]

Talk to @Buckeye_Hydro
I bought my system from them and it's been flawless

 

[RyPA]

To add to what I said about the factory installed filters.

This is how filter 2 came pre-installed. The othe side of the filter has an end-cap, similar to the second image below.


This rests in a housing that has no rubber/silicone gasket, so it's plastic on plastic, and the base of the housing isnt smooth so there is no way that it is sealing.

 

[wepeeler]

I went with Waterdrop: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08746M1NX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Easy to install, and I use it for the doggo's water, and my coffee, as well as my beer.

 

[MaxStout]

Another happy @Buckeye_Hydro RO system owner.

 

[IslandLizard]

I am wondering if this cheaper kit is just a frankenstein setup that does not have filters that actually fit the housings.

There's much proprietary stuff out there, so you'd have to buy the exact replacement parts for that brand's system. Usually at steep pricing too.
Some parts may look very similar, but may not quite fit.

Another vote for Russ, @Buckeye_Hydro.

 

[RyPA]

Agreed on the proprietary. Apec claims to have a universal filter fitment, which is what I want so I am not stuck with a given brands replacement filters.

 

[MaxStout]

When selecting a system, consider the overall cost of ownership. Check the company's filter pricing, as you will need to replace them from time to time. As others mentioned, avoid proprietary filters, as you would become hemmed in by that. If the company closes or there are supply chain issues, etc., you could be stuck with a lemon.

 

[RyPA]

Yes I considered it from that perspective. I will likely pull the trigger on the Apec, its on sale now for $160 including a brushed nickel faucet

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I've been running an Apec ROES100 for many years. It started life as a ROES50 but I eventually upgraded it with a Filmtec 100gpd membrane and a pump and uprated restrictor valve and an auto backflush control and solenoid valve, all from from Russ @Buckeye_Hydro...

Cheers!

 

[RyPA]

@day_trippr have you used non APEC branded filters/membranes?

 

[day_trippr]

Aside from the membrane, I have so far only used APEC cartridges. I could use other brands as the housings are widely used (not proprietary) but then there's the trust thing and I've developed trust in APEC...

Cheers!

 

[Indian_villager]

To add to what I said about the factory installed filters.

This is how filter 2 came pre-installed. The othe side of the filter has an end-cap, similar to the second image below.
View attachment 877052

This rests in a housing that has no rubber/silicone gasket, so it's plastic on plastic, and the base of the housing isnt smooth so there is no way that it is sealing.
View attachment 877053

Do you have a picture of the whole setup? Those look like standard 10" filters.

If your system is using standard filters I have been using the following for 9 years without issue on another generic system.

Pre/post filters (3 year set)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LR6OMU4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

RO membrane (replace when tds starts creeping, I just do mine every 3 years) Be mindful that the Amazon Listing still calls it Dow Filmtec, meanwhile the whole thing is now DuPont, so the membrane you get will have a DuPont logo on it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCFY3S5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

To add to what I said about the factory installed filters.

This is how filter 2 came pre-installed. The othe side of the filter has an end-cap, similar to the second image below.
View attachment 877052

This rests in a housing that has no rubber/silicone gasket, so it's plastic on plastic, and the base of the housing isnt smooth so there is no way that it is sealing.
View attachment 877053

That's what's called a axial flow cartridge. There should be a cap cemented in in the center of the bottom. There is not seal on the bottom - water flows in those openings in the bottom and out the top. If they used that as a prefilter they probably gave you a GAC filter - this is a low end prefilter and should be avoided. Carbon blocks are far superior.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

For those not familiar with us, we are a long-time sponsor of Home Brew Talk - we provide water treatment solutions for the home brew and commercial brewing markets.

 

[RyPA]

I ended up buying the APEC system from Amazon and it arrived this morning. I am in the middle of a kitchen renovation so I was in a pinch for time. I am going to keep my old system to potentially re-use in the future (assuming I can get filters that work with it). I needed a brushed nickel faucet anyway, which this APEC kit included.

As pictured above, this cap


Is resting against a surface that would not create a seal, making the filter do nothing?

 

[SFC Rudy]

RO Buddie from Amazon $68.99.

 

[RyPA]

Wanted to add that I found why I was getting no RO water output after replacing the membrane.

Since I just bought the APEC system, I decided to pack away my old system for potential future use, so I was cleaning all of the housings. I found that I could not get water or air to come out of the check valve on the RO-out port…so it somehow became clogged or defective through the filter/membrane replacement process.

Maybe carbon snuck through when I first put water back into the new filters/membrane and clogged the check valve. Though, I did flush only the pre filters for 10 minutes before letting water reach the membrane.

So if anyone has this issue, test your check valve(s) before pulling your hair out with frustration like I did.

 

[danno6102]

RO Buddie from Amazon $68.99.

I run this same one. Works great. I get 2 ppm. Replace the filters like once a year-ish, just because.

 

[scrap iron]

That's what's called a axial flow cartridge. There should be a cap cemented in in the center of the bottom. There is not seal on the bottom - water flows in those openings in the bottom and out the top. If they used that as a prefilter they probably gave you a GAC filter - this is a low end prefilter and should be avoided. Carbon blocks are far superior.

I just recently bought a new RO system that has a axial GAC filter prefilter. This is a 5 stage system with a sediment, GAC and then a carbon block after the GAC. I was curious about axial as I never see this type before. Is this something we should replace or is it ok with the carbon block following it?

 

[Indian_villager]

I just recently bought a new RO system that has a axial GAC filter prefilter. This is a 5 stage system with a sediment, GAC and then a carbon block after the GAC. I was curious about axial as I never see this type before. Is this something we should replace or is it ok with the carbon block following it?

You're fine with the carbon block after it in most cases. It really depends on how heavily chlorinated your water coming in from the city is, if your city is using chloramines I'd have to read into it further.

 

[scrap iron]

Yes, I believe they are using chloramines. I had 4 stage unit before and did not seem to have problems. I just thought 5 stage would be better because I have TDS around 380 ppms. Good old Midwestern hard water. I'm getting about 95-96 % reduction.

 

[RyPA]

Buckeye- does axial flow correspond to the filter type that i pictured which does not create a seal in either the top or bottom of the housing? If yes, how does this do anything if the water is not forced to go through the filter media?

Also, regarding the one filter I pictured that had an end cap missing…I ended up finding it under my grill which was near where i took apart the system. It must have fell off and rolled under without me noticing. On this filter, it has a rubber piece on both ends to make a seal.

 

[Indian_villager]

Yes, I believe they are by using chloramines. I had 4 stage unit before and did not seem to have problems. I just thought 5 stage would be better because I have TDS around 380 ppms. Good old Midwestern hard water. I'm getting about 95-96 % reduction.

Kansas City MO or KS? https://www.bestosmosisexperts.com/cities-that-use-chloramine/

Also your tds shouldn't really impact how many stages you are using on your filter. The RO membrane is the thing that is doing the heavy lifting on reducing the TDS of your output water. You can boost it's efficiency significantly by adding a permeate pump. If your output water is still having too much tds you may need to increase the size of your waste water restrictor so you end up throwing out a bit more water, to get higher quality filtered water. If you need help figuring all this out I'm sure @Buckeye_Hydro will set you up.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Buckeye- does axial flow correspond to the filter type that i pictured which does not create a seal in either the top or bottom of the housing? If yes, how does this do anything if the water is not forced to go through the filter media?

Also, regarding the one filter I pictured that had an end cap missing…I ended up finding it under my grill which was near where i took apart the system. It must have fell off and rolled under without me noticing. On this filter, it has a rubber piece on both ends to make a seal.

That filter cartridge should have had a rubber gasket at the top that makes a seal.

 

[RyPA]

That filter cartridge should have had a rubber gasket at the top that makes a seal.

Thanks for confirming. I wonder why this company was distributing these filters without a seal on the end.

 

[Indian_villager]

The bottom is supposed to be open, the top is supposed to have a gasket as pictured.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-Wate...sprefix=express+water+gac,aps,135&sr=8-9&th=1

 

[RyPA]

The bottom is supposed to be open, the top is supposed to have a gasket as pictured.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-Water-Granular-Activated-Replacement/dp/B01G2MBUCQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=8A50O4T9LRTX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eL4AmjXGpVg6YwTkiZad6bG1AnKJwzTO1KHkubf9HMmsPgU7wjkfS_KrmVfOG4a4Ih5y3yxGCdSn7zpOT3PLY9_6h0677LpawrJMhUdn9yCWa4qel0WCpObX8HehLvr6w0Qk_9Gbb_6SOnYskgW6RMIECUJ_0v-1vDBPH1t4sSZUKnLj6rXsvZADgO92qmvWySubD-6k7fum9gQ0FL-um3XcXRuk7kWiasTp-CjQqQEaC0K94dA-0C2rcfAeEeZMK_THG9I2NI35Ne2mpV-kcxPsLLF7XyP1ID7rTCQzKzg.TpzzM4iv9gX9BYyd0Vtt2Qi3JAWMf6s69ou8dJXEw_k&dib_tag=se&keywords=express+water+gac&qid=1749227358&sprefix=express+water+gac,aps,135&sr=8-9&th=1

But how is the filter effective if the water is not required to pass through it?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

I don't recall if it's been said already... but I'd not use a axial flow GAC as a prefilter. There are so many reasonably priced carbon blocks that offer far superior performance.

 

[Indian_villager]

But how is the filter effective if the water is not required to pass through it?

You're misunderstanding how that filter works. The liquid does pass through it. The open bottom you are seeing is where the water comes in, the top with the gasket is where the water leaves to the next stage. The gasket at top is to seal the separation between the clean and dirty. This is an axial flow filter, meaning the water flows along the axis of the cylinder. It is not a radial filter like the sediment filter or the carbon block, where the water flows in radially from the outer cylinder wall toward the center of the cylinder.

 

[Indian_villager]

Thanks for confirming. I wonder why this company was distributing these filters without a seal on the end.

Those types of filters usually have the gasket on top. They are not always glued, it is just a rubber disk pressed into a groove. Sometimes it will fall off when you are taking the plastic film off a new filter.

 

[RyPA]

You're misunderstanding how that filter works. The liquid does pass through it. The open bottom you are seeing is where the water comes in, the top with the gasket is where the water leaves to the next stage. The gasket at top is to seal the separation between the clean and dirty. This is an axial flow filter, meaning the water flows along the axis of the cylinder. It is not a radial filter like the sediment filter or the carbon block, where the water flows in radially from the outer cylinder wall toward the center of the cylinder.

Gotcha, so said another way, the water does not permeate through the sides, it comes in through the center in the direction of the end with the rubber gasket?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Gotcha, so said another way, the water does not permeate through the sides, it comes in through the center in the direction of the end with the rubber gasket?

Comes in the bottom of the cartridge, and exits out the very center of the top.

 

[RyPA]

Makes complete sense. You can see the filter media through the bottom and the sides of the filter is a plastic/non-permeable material. Thanks!

 

[gaviga]

I recommend getting a larger tank. Mine is 9 gallons US. I can fill my 10-gallon brewing system (20 gallon boil kettle) in one day if I need to.

 

[RyPA]

I recommend getting a larger tank. Mine is 9 gallons US. I can fill my 10-gallon brewing system (20 gallon boil kettle) in one day if I need to.

Too large for my purposes. I originally purchased RO specifically for brewing, but it has since turned into my only source of water for drinking, brewing, coffee, cooking, etc. With that said, my RO system is in my kitchen, and do not have the need or space for 10g.

From a "prepping for brew day" perspective, sure, a huge tank would be ideal, but I can work with a smaller tank. What I do is fill an old 5g kettle that came with a home brew kit I got from northern brewer in 2016, let the RO tank re-fill over 1-2 hours, rinse and repeat until I hit my volume. I prep everything the day before brew day so I have plenty of time.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, my typical batch needs around 20 gallons of water (strike plus fly sparge) and my 100 gpd system can crank that out in ~5 hours and never draw from the "4 gallon" pressure tank which only serves its dedicated faucet.

Cheers!

 

[Indian_villager]

fwiw, my typical batch needs around 20 gallons of water (strike plus fly sparge) and my 100 gpd system can crank that out in ~5 hours and never draw from the "4 gallon" pressure tank which only serves its dedicated faucet.

Cheers!

Same. I tee off at the "permeate in" line on my permeate pump to feed by buckets with float valves or for my keg of seltzer water.

 

[MaxStout]

A note for when you get a new system, or new filters: the carbon block needs to be flushed to purge the excess carbon particulates. This grit is normal, but it needs flushing out.

The important part: make sure you first disconnect the line leading from the carbon to the downstream filters. You don't want that carbon grit getting into the other filters.

After the grit has been purged (will take several minutes), reconnect and use normally.

Buckeye states that in their instructions, but don't forget that step.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Same. I tee off at the "permeate in" line on my permeate pump to feed by buckets with float valves or for my keg of seltzer water.

Good point. Most don't know that an RO system can be configured easily to feed both a pressurized tank, AND an unpressurized outlet.