RIMS tube controller build

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briord1

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Hi all, I am looking for some guidance on how to wire my RIMS controller. I have read through a ton of threads, looking for info and figured I would just come out and ask for help. I have all of the parts I want/need and I'm just looking for the confidence to start the build. Here is my parts list and the method in which I'd like to run the system:

1.5" SS RIMS tube
SS Chugger pump
10 Gallon Igloo MLT

Controller:
Single Auber 2352 PID
3x lighted switches (master, pump, element)
1x element firing LED indicator
25A SSR w/external heat sink
RTD temp probe
1500W heating element
2x 15A outlets for pump and element(to be controlled by switches
2x 6 position terminal strips

If anyone has any input, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm definitely a novice electrician and would love some help. Feel free to post or send me a PM. Thanks
 
P-J -

Forgive me for dredging this six-month old thread up, and for the novice question, but what is the structure in your diagram between the RIMS outlet and the PID panel?

Unknown.jpg


I feel comfortable enough with the wiring to attempt your setup, but am still learning terminology and such. Is this just an annotation of the circuit, or is it a relay of some kind?

Thanks in advance :)

Edit: Nevermind, it appears to be the SSR... That makes a lot of sense once I stepped back and looked at everything in context. Thanks!
 
jwbeard said:
P-J -

Forgive me for dredging this six-month old thread up, and for the novice question, but what is the structure in your diagram between the RIMS outlet and the PID panel?

Unknown.jpg


I feel comfortable enough with the wiring to attempt your setup, but am still learning terminology and such. Is this just an annotation of the circuit, or is it a relay of some kind?

Thanks in advance :)

Edit: Nevermind, it appears to be the SSR... That makes a lot of sense once I stepped back and looked at everything in context. Thanks!
Click to expand...
That is exactly what it is. The 'internals' of a SSR unit.

I'm glad you got it figured out. Thanks for posting the question.

P-J
 
The diagram indicates that it is intended for a 20A circuit. The 2000w element reflected in the diagram will push you above 15A.
 
For the pump illuminated switch, does it have to be a different model than the other two? It looks different in the drawing, that's why I ask.
 
The switch on the pump is a single throw double pole (STDP). The others are shown as single throw single pole, but the illuminated switches that most people run are STDP and can be used for all switch instances noted in the diagram. Therefore, you can use STDP switches throughout your build, but not STSP.

You could theoretically run all STST switches and eliminate the switching of the PID control. The reason for the double pole switch and controlling the SSR output is that it prevents the SSR from controlling the element unless your pump is running. Otherwise you could run the heating element by turning on your PID and not running the pump. It's a great feature provided in the diagram by PJ.
 
You want the 2NO switches. That means that both poles of the switch are normally open. The 1NO 1NC switches have one circuit that is completed when the switch is in the off position and one switch is open. You want both poles to close when the switch is in the on position. Closing both sides of the switch at the same time will give power to your pump and permit the SSR signals coming from your PID to hit the SSR.

The only place I've ever used a 1NO 1NC switch is with an emergency stop. I wanted one pole of the switch closed most of the time to power everything and the normally open side connected to a light/buzzer when the emergency stop is pushed. It also disconnects power by opening the circuit that's usually closed. Think of it more like an A/B switch (even though you could use it for other applications).

Hope this helps.
 
I was (and still am) a novice electrician when I worked on my RIMS controller. I understood the basics, and had build a few simple electronics, but this was a bit beyond me. My best advice: find someone you know who is comfortable with electricity, and pay them in beer. I know it's not what you want to hear, but you could potentially fry your components/yourself. You can also spend HOURS staring and scratching your head. My buddy was a pro electrician, and he sunk quite a few hours into mine.
I had originally intended to go it alone on this build- calling for backup was the best choice I could have made. Someone with experience will likely make the thing look a heck of a lot better, beyond functioning.
Here is my build:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/norcal-rims-tube-ebrewsupply-controller-build-472462/index2.html
 
I echo the comments to have a licensed electrician review your work or complete your build.

FWIW, I am not an electrician. I was able to build the ebrewsupply 120V eRIMs build myself using basic tools and a multimeter. I'm pretty sure I triple checked my work before plugging in for the first time. If you don't understand how the wiring diagram works, I wouldn't go this alone.
 
Thanks to everyone for the great responses. I'm also in need of some assistance I'm not an electrician by any means but want to take this project on, I do plan to have my work checked before I turn it on.

I have a similar build as the one above in mind, with one difference - my pump is in a toolbox build with a GFCI outlet installed. I'm planning to have the controller plug directly into the pump box, wired so that the pump box outlet (and thus the RIMS controller) would only receive power when the pump is turned on. Because of this I don't need a switch to control the pump, an outlet for it or a connecter, etc. to ensure the element be turned on only if the pump switch is on. Trying to keep the build as simple as possible while still being redundantly safe.

My plan is for a 110v setup, parts list is below followed by some questions, any help with these would be greatly appreciated.

Parts List:
NEMA 4 project box
Auber 2352 PID
25A SSR with internal heat sink
2x Selector Switch, 2-Position Maintained 2 NO with LED indicator (one for PID, one for element)
Flashing buzzer, 110v AC for temperature alarm
15A receptacle
15A GFCI outlet (for element)
Terminal strips
Brew Hardware RIMS tube
Element: Camco 02932/02933 5500W 240V Foldback, Ultra Low Watt Density

Questions:
1. I understand from other HBT posts that I can run the element above on 110v and it will work well/put out ~1345W. Do y'all agree with this? Normal 110v power cord okay for it?
2. Does using a GFCI outlet for the element (along with one in the pump box for the controller, and an in-line GFCI between the wall and the pump box) preclude the need for a circuit breaker or fuse within the controller box?
3. Is there a wiring diagram out there for a build similar to what I've described? The one above is one of the cleanest I've seen but includes a pump switch and outlet which I don't need.

Thanks in advance. I'll post pics of the build (and of the pump toolbox) as I go.
 
Can someone post the diagram again I basically want this setup but with a second pump switch!
 
GJOCONNELL said:
Can someone post the diagram again I basically want this setup but with a second pump switch!
Click to expand...

Many of P-J's designs are no longer available, as the links to them are now dead. So, you might need to request a new design. I can probably help with that, but need to know just what you want in the control panel, since I can't reference the original design.

Brew on :mug:
 
stlbeer said:
Looky what I found!

See attachments.
Click to expand...

Did you have those in your personal collection, or are they still available on-line somewhere?

In the second design, I would put switch number 2 in series with switch number 3, rather than having switch 2 control the SSR firing signal from the PID. SSR's tend to fail in the on mode, and putting switch 2 in series with switch 3 prevents a failed SSR from scorching the wort when the pump is off.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz said:
Did you have those in your personal collection, or are they still available on-line somewhere?

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...

These are from my personal collection. I've seen another user, kcindpx, also mention he downloaded all of the drawings.

If you're looking for something, let me know.
 
stlbeer said:
These are from my personal collection. I've seen another user, kcindpx, also mention he downloaded all of the drawings.

If you're looking for something, let me know.
Click to expand...

I'm not looking, since I do designs from scratch, and have a slightly different design philosophy than P-J did. However, lots of e-brewers (and wanabe's) depend on P-J's designs. I have some of P-J's originals, but far from a complete set. Since many of the links in the thread dedicated to collecting P-J's designs are now dead, it might be a good thing to try to pull together all the designs, and put them somewhere like Google Drive, or another accessible cloud service. Probably under more than one account so that a line of succession can be assured, should any one account disappear for any reason. Are you willing to participate in such an endeavor?

Brew on :mug:
 
Any chance you guys could draw up a quick diagram for a 240v ekettle controller using an auber ezboil PID and a single switched pump? I think I've got it but it'd be nice to see what others think. Thanks
 
briord1 said:
Any chance you guys could draw up a quick diagram for a 240v ekettle controller using an auber ezboil PID and a single switched pump? I think I've got it but it'd be nice to see what others think. Thanks
Click to expand...

You can find one here.

Brew on :mug:
 

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