Review: SSBrewTech Chronical 7Gal Fermenter

[dmcman73]

I installed a 3/4" barb in the dump valve but haven't used the conical yet, figured it would be cleaner than the trub just coming out over the threads.

I was thinking of pumping thd wort through the 1/2 valve but then again, I just got a pail strainer I want to try to minimize the amount of trub getting into the fermenter.

 

[j1n]

How hard is it to clean and whats your cleaning process?

Wouldn't it be a pain to lift in and out of a chest freezer?

 

[ibbrewing2]

I have the 7gal conical and am on my second batch in it ATM. I am very impressed with it's performence and IMHO my beer tastes better because of it, of course I'm sure it's just my imagination. Anyway, I'm looking at a solid CIP procedure and am wondering about using a spray ball affixed to the blow off hole in the lid (1.5"dia) but looking through brewershardware.com it appears that the 1" spray ball is not a reverse triclamp connection meaning it won't seat with the spray ball positioned inside the conical. Ok I know thats a confusing way to write it but hopefully everyone understands what I mean. If anyone has insight on this please let me know.

 

[dmcman73]

I have the 7gal conical and am on my second batch in it ATM. I am very impressed with it's performence and IMHO my beer tastes better because of it, of course I'm sure it's just my imagination. Anyway, I'm looking at a solid CIP procedure and am wondering about using a spray ball affixed to the blow off hole in the lid (1.5"dia) but looking through brewershardware.com it appears that the 1" spray ball is not a reverse triclamp connection meaning it won't seat with the spray ball positioned inside the conical. Ok I know thats a confusing way to write it but hopefully everyone understands what I mean. If anyone has insight on this please let me know.

Why would you need a CIP? The whole top comes off for easy cleaning. A CIP is perfect for those conicals that don't have a removable lid... Just my .02

 

[pvpeacock]

FYI, Stout Tanks & Kettles has food grade 1 1/2" tri-clamp ball valves for a decent price with no threads. These ball valves are easier to take apart and clean than those that come with the SS conical. I originally bought a Stout 7 gallon conical, but had no ability to control the temperatures. While the Stout valves are better than the SS ones, I much prefer the SS for a few reasons: the 90 degree elbow at the dump valve, the welded legs, the carrying handles, the lid latches and, most importantly, the temperature control option. I actually think the SS temperature controller might work on my Stout conical (it looks like its the same size. My only question is whether the lid will seal or not. I'll have to give it try once my current batch of Zombie Dust Clone finishes fermenting in the SS Conical.

 

[pvpeacock]

Okay, I am going to say it, my SS Conical and temperature controller are boring. Every time I go out to my garage the temperature is right where I set it: 60 degrees. I have yet to even see the pump turn on. The only action I see is the airlock bubbling. All kidding aside, this thing works great. Set and forget (other than swapping out frozen water bottles in the cooler 2x per day). It works so well, I just bought another one.

 

[Yetiman]

Just unpacked and cleaned my third 7 gall Chronical. I have the temp control for each of them.

It's getting really cold now where I live - high teens over night and 30's during the day (F). I keep them in my unheated garage where it gets down to mid 30's overnight.

I'm using electric heatpads tucked into the neoprene insulation suit/jacket/sleve. The heatpads are slightly too big and was wondering if anyone is aware of smaller yet efficient heat pads that will allow you to keep it warm when cold.

 

[dmcman73]

Just unpacked and cleaned my third 7 gall Chronical. I have the temp control for each of them.

It's getting really cold now where I live - high teens over night and 30's during the day (F). I keep them in my unheated garage where it gets down to mid 30's overnight.

I'm using electric heatpads tucked into the neoprene insulation suit/jacket/sleve. The heatpads are slightly too big and was wondering if anyone is aware of smaller yet efficient heat pads that will allow you to keep it warm when cold.

Why not use the FTS temp controller you bought with the chonical? Instead of ice in the water tank, throw a fish tank heater in there to keep the water warm. The FTS not just a cooler but also to warm. Here are the instructions for the controller, look under the Advanced Controller settings to see how to put it into heating mode: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0239/5187/t/10/assets/FTSs_quick_ref.pdf?5126

You have the tools, may as well use them.

 

[ibbrewing2]

Why would you need a CIP? The whole top comes off for easy cleaning. A CIP is perfect for those conicals that don't have a removable lid... Just my .02

Very true and you're correct in that I don't need to CIP. My reason for wanting to utilize a CIP procedure is simply ease of cleaning and dialing in the mechanics of it. Easy enough to pop off the lid and pour in some cleaning solution, but that's not as fun as having a sweet CIP that I just hook up and run while I focus on other brewing endeavors. Either way cleaning this conical has been a breeze, I just wanted to hear of any genius was others have come up with for a CIP system.

 

[MPEbeling]

Just unpacked and cleaned my third 7 gall Chronical. I have the temp control for each of them.

It's getting really cold now where I live - high teens over night and 30's during the day (F). I keep them in my unheated garage where it gets down to mid 30's overnight.

I'm using electric heatpads tucked into the neoprene insulation suit/jacket/sleve. The heatpads are slightly too big and was wondering if anyone is aware of smaller yet efficient heat pads that will allow you to keep it warm when cold.

Are you talking about the FTS temp control unit you can purchase? I am thinking about getting a 14 g and waiting until the spring when the release the temp control unit for that. It sounds like you are not using their set up...am I right? If not what are you doing something different? Is there a flaw with the temp control unit they are selling?

Also is there any reason to get the half bbl conical over the 14 gal? I cant fill it yet, but I may be able to grow into it someday.

This is my first conical (using plastic buckets now)...what are all the accessories I will need to buy to transfer the wort to it, monitor the temp, regulate teh temp (I am assuming the FTS temp control takes care of this), pressurize it and anything else special I will need to do with it that I am unaware of.

Thanks for the great review, hard to justify spending anymore on a different one if these are as good as they sound.

 

[opqdan]

How is the rotating racking arm on this thing? Lifesaver or just an extra piece to have? Does anybody actually rotate it to avoid the yeast/trub? My concern is that you cannot see the height of the trub in the steel, so you don't know where to rotate to (unless you just watch the tube for clear beer). But then, if you use the bottom dump valve appropriately (dump trub after a few days, pull yeast after primary fermentation), do you even need to rotate the arm at all or just point it straight down? Does it offer any advantage over a fixed dip tube?

I've been comparing pricing on building my own conical from a 15gal inductor tank, and with the stand and hardware, the total price isn't that appealing compared with just going to a Chronical. I just wish that they had the option of swapping at least the dump valve with a full 1.5" TC butterfly, then I could skip the 3/4" ball valve and directly convert to male camlock for filling (in) and CIP (out) purposes, but still use the 1.5" TC for dumping/yeast collection.

 

[Feurhund]

I just got mine and bought the squeeze handle butterfly valves to upgrade. Unfortunately I didn't realize the pick up tube needs to be used with the NPT Male triclamp fitting that the ball valve screws onto.

The only way I see to get to the butterfly valve is to use a female NPT fitting in place of the ball valve and the go to the butterfly. I don't like this for two reasons. It is $13 for the bridging piece and it is a spot for beer to sit, isolated from the rest of the ferment and it will be a threaded connection.

Anyone know a better way?

 

[pvpeacock]

I live in Southern California, so cooling, not heating my fermenter is the reason I bought the FTS temperature controller. I just brewed a Mosaic IPA over the weekend and used my Hydra wort chiller to get the wort down to 78 degrees. I then transferred the wort into my Chronical and set the FTS to 63 degrees while I started clean up and started to rehydrate my dry yeast. Within 5 minutes, the FTS took my wort from 78 to 63 degrees. Wow! Perfect way to get to pitching temperature. Then the unexpected happened. The day after I pitched the yeast, we actually had three rain storms come through which dropped the temperature in my fermenter to 58 degrees. For 2 days I saw no activity in my airlock. So, I dumped the cold water out of my cooler and put hot water in it, set the FTS temperature to 56 degrees to start the FTS pump and watched the hot water circulate. Within 5 minutes, my wort temperature was up to 66 degrees, so I stopped the pump by turning off the FTS. The next morning the airlock was bubbling away and the wort was maintaining a 66 degree temperature on its own. Now that the storms and cold weather have passed, I have refilled my cooler with cold water and turned the FTS back on set at 66 degrees to maintain that temperature. Very handy to be able to cool or warm the wort while in the fermenter. Great product.

 

[bmiller8]

How would the freezer in the link work for a ferm chamber? I know the cost is about the same, but it would allow for use with a dual stage ranco.

http://m.sears.com/kenmore-4.9-cu-f...620502000Ppid=04620502000&kispla=04620502000P

 

[Feurhund]

That upright is a good option. I have chest freezers now because I used carboys before.
If I go upright I would want a glass door. These things look so nice I want to see them thumping along.
I have looked for wine fridges tall enough, but the only option with good height seems to be the true "coke" fridges and they get spendy quick even used. I saw great prices on here, but the guys was in cali.
I am just going to keep watching craigslist. Bigger problem is I want two that match.

 

[silhouette]

I actually think the SS temperature controller might work on my Stout conical (it looks like its the same size. My only question is whether the lid will seal or not. I'll have to give it try once my current batch of Zombie Dust Clone finishes fermenting in the SS Conical.

Interesting. Might you also be able to use the stout peltier cooler on the SS brewtech (7 gallon)? Are the diameters the same?
https://conical-fermenter.com/Peltier-Kit-for-7-and-12-gal-fermenters.html

It says, "won't work with other fermentors". But if the diameter was the same (or pretty close) it would probably work just fine. I would greatly prefer a all electric solution to control heating and cooling (similar to the morebeer setup) so i could program different fermentation profiles on a BrewBit.

 

[bcrawfo2]

Interesting. Might you also be able to use the stout peltier cooler on the SS brewtech (7 gallon)? Are the diameters the same?

https://conical-fermenter.com/Peltier-Kit-for-7-and-12-gal-fermenters.html



It says, "won't work with other fermentors". But if the diameter was the same (or pretty close) it would probably work just fine. I would greatly prefer a all electric solution to control heating and cooling (similar to the morebeer setup) so i could program different fermentation profiles on a BrewBit.

I'm in the same boat as you. I wondered about the stout cooler. I haven't been able to get any data on cooling capacity, energy usage, nothing. I'm planning on just going with a heated/cooled chamber instead of circulating liquid around/thru the fermenter

 

[Feurhund]

How would the freezer in the link work for a ferm chamber? I know the cost is about the same, but it would allow for use with a dual stage ranco.

http://m.sears.com/kenmore-4.9-cu-f...620502000Ppid=04620502000&kispla=04620502000P

The shelves on that unit are condensing coils and you would have to very carefully bend them out if the way. Not fun on a brand new unit. It would be great if that weren't the case.

 

[silhouette]

I just got mine and bought the squeeze handle butterfly valves to upgrade. Unfortunately I didn't realize the pick up tube needs to be used with the NPT Male triclamp fitting that the ball valve screws onto.

The only way I see to get to the butterfly valve is to use a female NPT fitting in place of the ball valve and the go to the butterfly. I don't like this for two reasons. It is $13 for the bridging piece and it is a spot for beer to sit, isolated from the rest of the ferment and it will be a threaded connection.

Anyone know a better way?

I was looking at doing the butterfly valve upgrade too. Can you replace the whole racking arm assembly with something like this?
http://morebeer.com/products/conical-racking-arm-sample-valve-assembly.html

You could probably get just the racking arm to get to a tri-clamp fitting, but that part seemed like a decent way get a rotating racking arm that you didn't need pliers for and a sample valve with barbs that you could fill a keg from.

That said, I am a complete newb, so I am not sure if racking arms are indeed swappable between vendors.

 

[Feurhund]

That arm and sample assembly is pretty sweet. I like that it is low profile.

I put the butterfly's on these two conicals and it seems like overkill. It adds a lot of weight and makes it feel front heavy. It is also very tight clearance wise to operate the levers.

$75 is steep, but I could return a $50 butterfly valve and hose barb triclamp which is about the same.

I need to measure and make sure the arm would fit but nice find.

 

[bcrawfo2]

Somebody buy that sample valve and try it out. My 14g is coming in two weeks or so

 

[Feurhund]

I bought two of them and will hopefully report back that they fit the 7 gallon!

If they do, is anyone interested in two brand new 1.5" squeeze trigger butterfly valves? $50/each+shipping.

I am using them in my bottom dump valve and won't need the extra two for the racking port.

 

[bcrawfo2]

I bought two of them and will hopefully report back that they fit the 7 gallon!

If they do, is anyone interested in two brand new 1.5" squeeze trigger butterfly valves? $50/each+shipping.

I am using them in my bottom dump valve and won't need the extra two for the racking port.

Are they the $53 ones from brewershardware?
I'd like to be first in line for the chance to buy

 

[Feurhund]

They are the same and I have already cleaned them with TSP and passivated with starsan but never used.

Once I am sure the racking arm fits you will be first in line.

 

[bcrawfo2]

Thanks for the tsp reminder. At Home Depot as I speak/type

Can I mount a cip spray ball on the top tri clover?

 

[Feurhund]

Should be able to. It is a standard 1.5" triclamp port. As long as the CIP is designed for that opening.

The TSP is a good step to get any machine oil etc. off before using.

 

[bcrawfo2]

How does SSbrewtech's digital therm fit into the thermowell? Is there any way I could sneak an STC1000 probe in there too? Or would the SSbrewtech therm be extraneous (even for just information) at that point?

 

[Feurhund]

FYI for those that want a triclamp racking arm.





https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6611662

 

[lyonshead]

How does SSbrewtech's digital therm fit into the thermowell? Is there any way I could sneak an STC1000 probe in there too? Or would the SSbrewtech therm be extraneous (even for just information) at that point?

You would never be able to fit the probe in WITH the probe Ss brew tech provides, but you may be able to substitute it. I'm unfamiliar with the stc 1000 probe but I use a Johnson A419 and it fits the Ss Thermowell like a glove. I'll like never use the provided thermometer


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[lyonshead]

How does SSbrewtech's digital therm fit into the thermowell? Is there any way I could sneak an STC1000 probe in there too? Or would the SSbrewtech therm be extraneous (even for just information) at that point?

You would never be able to fit the probe in WITH the probe Ss brew tech provides, but you may be able to substitute it. I'm unfamiliar with the stc 1000 probe but I use a Johnson A419 and it fits the Ss Thermowell like a glove. I'll like never use the provided thermometer