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Reusing stubby bottles from Sierra Nevada issues.

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Gunshowgreg

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Hey everyone I tried looking this up on Google but couldn't find anything too specific. I'm trying to figure out if my winged caper is not working properly or if it only works with long necks like Sam Adam's bottles. I bottled some beer into some Sierra Nevada bottles and it seemed carbonation wasn't being held. No hiss and bottle came off easily. Anyone else experience this with Sierra Nevada bottles and a wing caper? Be advised I'm not ruling out operator error either [emoji2]

Thanks
 
I've also experienced problems with stubbies like Sierra Nevada. Their lip doesn't seem to hold a cap as well as standard bottles. I just add them to the returnables bag now, and bottles with standards.
 
Well that's just tragic. The labels float off easy too. Glad to hear I'm not the only one with that problem. Would a different caper be more benificial?
 
i use a standard wing capper and also find that the shorter, wider neck 12ozers do not work, seems like the width of the neck doesn't allow the crimping to happen at all or tightly enough. It is unfortunate when you are mid-bottling and have to start running around looking for normal sized bottles.
 
I was wondering if the lip was slightly larger on these stubby bottles compared to the long neck bottles. To my naked eye it appears so and I have experienced the same thing as the OP, they do not hold the carbonation. I have now only saved the long neck bottles and return the stubbies for the deposit along with the cans.
 
I use an old cast iron bench capper and bottle exclusively with SN bottles.
no problems ever.
May be the wing capper.
 
Bench capper might be a good investment idea.

As far as saving the bottles and returning them I'm not familiar with that process. Are you taking them back to the brewery or a recycling facility?
 
Bench capper might be a good investment idea.

As far as saving the bottles and returning them I'm not familiar with that process. Are you taking them back to the brewery or a recycling facility?

Here in NY you have to pay a 5 cents deposit for every bottle or can of beer, soda, etc... When you return the empty bottles and cans you get your 5 cents back for each one. There are redemption centers to accept them or the grocery stores are the most popular in my area.
 
Not discounting others' experiences, but I've never had a problem using a wing capper and short bottles.

Same here.

I've used the same wing capper on SN bottles for ~10 years with no issues.

Other stubby bottles (Firestone Walker, Ninkasi, etc.) have worked well, too.

Session bottles (a brand by Full Sail brewery) have not worked at all.


Any chance you accidentally bought 29mm crown caps instead of the standard (25mm) size?
 
I've had problems in the past with certain batches of caps not working on certain types of bottles.
Sometimes I could switch to a different bag of caps and they would work fine where the other bag just wouldn't hold.

After switching to a bench capper and I've had much better results. I still hit the occasional bottle which just won't cap right though.

However, I haven't tried the Sierra Nevada bottles, so can't comment on them specifically.
 
Not discounting others' experiences, but I've never had a problem using a wing capper and short bottles.

Same here. Back when I bottled, I filled hundreds of SN stubby bottles, capped with a wing capper and never had an issue.
 
This will sound odd, but...

Look at a beer bottle as if it were a penis. The wing cappers grasp the backside of the head, and push the cap down on the tip. Some of the stubbies have a shorter distance between the back of the head and the tip. The wing cappers rely on there being a bigger distance from tip to back for the needed leverage.
 
This will sound odd, but...

Look at a beer bottle as if it were a penis. The wing cappers grasp the backside of the head, and push the cap down on the tip. Some of the stubbies have a shorter distance between the back of the head and the tip. The wing cappers rely on there being a bigger distance from tip to back for the needed leverage.

God I’ll never look at a beer bottle the same way nor do I think I could drink a beer straight from the bottle now. [emoji23]
 
This will sound odd, but...

Look at a beer bottle as if it were a penis. The wing cappers grasp the backside of the head, and push the cap down on the tip. Some of the stubbies have a shorter distance between the back of the head and the tip. The wing cappers rely on there being a bigger distance from tip to back for the needed leverage.

@sickboy Yeah, that's one opinion that definitely does stink.
 
Same here.

I've used the same wing capper on SN bottles for ~10 years with no issues.

Other stubby bottles (Firestone Walker, Ninkasi, etc.) have worked well, too.

Session bottles (a brand by Full Sail brewery) have not worked at all.


Any chance you accidentally bought 29mm crown caps instead of the standard (25mm) size?
Good question I'm definitely gonna look now
 
Before I got into kegging, I always bottled my Lagers in SN bottles (using a bench capper) figuring I could fit more bottles on a 'fridge shelf for for lagering, Also, I could always tell which bottles held lagers and which ones ales. Used them for years without any problems.
 
I had the same problem with a wing capper. Got a bench capper and no longer have any problems getting the caps tight.
 
Looks like a bench capper might be in my best interest. I proved one on northern brewer for about $50 and no that they have free shipping on orders over $30 that's not that bad.
 
Same here.

I've used the same wing capper on SN bottles for ~10 years with no issues.

Other stubby bottles (Firestone Walker, Ninkasi, etc.) have worked well, too.

Session bottles (a brand by Full Sail brewery) have not worked at all.


Any chance you accidentally bought 29mm crown caps instead of the standard (25mm) size?
Unfortunately there isn't a size on the bag. They're the oxygen absorbing ones that I got on Amazon. Idk if that's my problem or not.

Also is there anything special about oxygen absorbing vs the regular caps? My noobness shows, I know.
1529676793202.jpeg
 
I have not had any problems using my wing capper on stubbies. I got a batch of those oxygen absorbing caps that seem to be stronger metal. They are very difficult to crimp. It may be just that batch since I have used oxygen absorbing caps in the past and didn't have any difficulty.

It has been said that if you soak those caps in Starsan to sanitize you either have to crimp them immediately or they lose the ability to absorb oxygen. I don't know. And my beers don't last long enough (usually) that I care. Even some of my big beers that lasted for years and were not capped with these didn't show any signs (to me) that they oxidized.
 
The issue is the top of the bottle.

IMG_1530244775.876036.jpg


There are two ridge points on the top.

Clappers that you’re using close around the bottom ridge to give the leverage to push the crown cap around the top ridge.
(Bench presses don’t need that)

So if the second ridge is very close to the first. It simply doesn’t have enough distance to pull the cap on.

I’d be willing to bet that many of your SN bottles you can pry open with your fingers.

Some clappers can flip the part that over to work with the shorter distance between the two ridges.

If you insist on using SN bottles, and your clapper isn’t adjustable. You can get around it by putting your full body weight directly down onto the bottle resting on a solid surface or floor.

But this increases chance that the bottle will break if you’re not pressing straight down.
And every bottle you need to try pressing up against the crown with your thumb. If the cap pops off then you need to try again with a new cap. If you can’t push it off with your fingers, you’re golden.

But… after broken bottles, lost beer, wasted failed caps. I just recycle any bottle with a narrow space between ridges.

If you really want short bottles, there are some brands out there with short bottles and clapper friendly tops. Just double check that they aren’t twist offs.
 
The issue is the top of the bottle.

View attachment 577125

There are two ridge points on the top.

Clappers that you’re using close around the bottom ridge to give the leverage to push the crown cap around the top ridge.
(Bench presses don’t need that)

So if the second ridge is very close to the first. It simply doesn’t have enough distance to pull the cap on.

I’d be willing to bet that many of your SN bottles you can pry open with your fingers.

Some clappers can flip the part that over to work with the shorter distance between the two ridges.

If you insist on using SN bottles, and your clapper isn’t adjustable. You can get around it by putting your full body weight directly down onto the bottle resting on a solid surface or floor.

But this increases chance that the bottle will break if you’re not pressing straight down.
And every bottle you need to try pressing up against the crown with your thumb. If the cap pops off then you need to try again with a new cap. If you can’t push it off with your fingers, you’re golden.

But… after broken bottles, lost beer, wasted failed caps. I just recycle any bottle with a narrow space between ridges.

If you really want short bottles, there are some brands out there with short bottles and clapper friendly tops. Just double check that they aren’t twist offs.

I had similar issues with the shorter bottles as well, but have since remedied the problem with the highlighted technique. One thing, though... Don't use FULL body weight. Just use enough to feel the cap seat properly. The position and force vector are the keys. And while it has happened before, I can count on one hand the number of bottles I have broken over 6 years and 100+ all grain batches.
 
I have been using SN bottles for many years. I use a "flapper" capper and have no problems except for a couple of Stouts and I think that's my fault when adding the sugar at bottling time.
 
I had went and tried capping a long neck bottle vs a stubby bottle and I noticed the stubby has some play in the cap after I used the wing capper. Looks like until I get a bench capper I'll use long necks just to be safe.

Maybe I should start a new thread for this but as far as bench cappers go, any recommendations?
 
I had went and tried capping a long neck bottle vs a stubby bottle and I noticed the stubby has some play in the cap after I used the wing capper. Looks like until I get a bench capper I'll use long necks just to be safe.

Maybe I should start a new thread for this but as far as bench cappers go, any recommendations?

Here is a link to one of the latest threads about bench cappers. I use the old style Agata with the button height adjustment. $35 at home brew shop. Some New Belgium bottles are shorter than others. I separate these from other bottles. I use a couple of plastic disks to raise these bottles an eighth of an inch for better crimping without damaging the body of the capper.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/upgrading-to-bench-capper-have-a-few-questions.649048/
 
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This will sound odd, but...

Look at a beer bottle as if it were a penis. The wing cappers grasp the backside of the head, and push the cap down on the tip. Some of the stubbies have a shorter distance between the back of the head and the tip. The wing cappers rely on there being a bigger distance from tip to back for the needed leverage.
So size does matter? Asking for a friend.
 
Go for a Colonna if you ever want to work Belgian style bottles. I have used SN without issue, even with a wing capper, but it was the red one with removeable bell, not the cheaper black one.
 
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