Restarting fermentation in a "finished" beer

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Brooothru

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I've been 'lowering the level' of a keg of Double IPA recently that, although a good beer, missed a few marks, and I've been thinking about ways to correct the short comings. I don't want to rebrew it just yet, What I want to do is see if I can improve on this beer, already in the keg.

Basically what I designed the recipe to be was a 8.5ish % DIPA with around 95 IBUs. Due to physical limitations with my brewing equipment, I limited my grain bill to 14 lbs and augmented with 3 lbs of amber DME added 5 minutes before end of boil. I pitched 1.5 liters of active WLP-090 Super San Diego ale yeast. OG was 1.069/16.8P, FG quit at 1.011/2.8P, which was well short of my hoped for 1.005/1.3P. I'll admit that 1.005 was a pretty ambitious target, but 1.011 was a disappointment. The late addition DME left a lot of residual sweetness that didn't get dried out, and despite the Lovibond rating on the package still left the wort quite a bit darker than planned. I will say that the target 95 IBUs (at least in the lingering aftertaste) go a ways toward balancing the malt, but the end result was a 1990s version hoppy Amber Ale with quite a bit of caramel overtone. I'm OK with the color, and even the caramel is a bit of a pleasant throwback to an earlier style. But the initial lack of malty sweetness/hoppy bitterness. makes me ready to move on to the next beer instead of another of the same beer. Plus, I've still got over half a keg left.

So here's what I'm thinking, and would like some input. A few years ago I made a Dry Lager using amyloglucosidase which brought the final gravity down to 0.998 SG. It was a pretty good beer that clocked in at 3.9% ABV and only 95 kcal, less than 3 carbs. The downside was thin mouthfeel. I had used amylo both in the mash and also in the fermentation after 'primary' (95%) fermentation. That's what dropped it from around 1.007ish where it looks like fermentation would have stopped, to 0.998 FG. Now this DIPA is sitting at 1.011, has conditioned and cleared, and was racked off the settled yeast and trub about a month ago. What I'm considering doing is allowing the temperature to rise to ambient room temperature and dosing it with amylo. I doubt that there's much if any active or dormant yeast in the existing beer, so a repitch will have to be done. I'd like for the SG to drop to at least 1.007, and preferably 1.003 or less. I'm thinking a closed transfer into a 3 gallon keg, dosing with 0.5 tsp amyloglucosidase, letting it work its magic for several days at room temperature, then pitching some active krausening yeast into the mix. Attach a spunding valve set at 1 BAR and see what happens next.

Does it sound like this science experiment might work? I've only had one experience with amyloglucosidase, and I've never added yeast to a settled, matured beer in an attempt to restart a fermentation. What factors have I overlooked, or can be done to achieve success? If the beer gets ruined, it won't be the end of the world, but I would like it to work.

Opinions and suggestions solicited.
 
Have you tasted this brew yet? Are we working with a dumper here?
Oh,no. The beer tastes good. Just caramel malty. The hops don't come through until the aftertaste (all Centennial; faint citrus nose, stronger citrus finish). Not really even close to a dumper, but I want to see if it can be brought into more balanced character. The fact that it finished high in FG, considering the yeast and the pitch volume, is what throws it off. If the ABV were higher, there'd be less residual sweetness and the hops should shine through. There's virtually no alcohol warmth even though the ABV is 7.7%
 
My thinking is that, as it exists now, the malt and hops are out of balance. 95 IBUs (calculated Rager) should be more than enough to balance the malt, even with 3# of DME added late. The yeast only attenuated to 90% of what was anticipated, leaving a residual sweetness accentuated by a lack of alcohol warmth. So, too sweet (malty vs. dry). If I could 'encourage' some remaining dextrins, either unfermented maltose or limit dextrins with the use of amyloglucosidaise, to be fermented by a restarted process it might bring the malts and hops (and alcohol) into better balance.

It seems to me that this could work. But in life, that which seems to me to be logical isn't always so. Thus, my question.
 
I had a pilsner that I accidentally mashed way too high and it finished out at 1.022. It was not good. I added glucoamylase and it restarted, took it down to 1.000.
A little bit thin then, but overall pretty good. Very drinkable.
 
I had a pilsner that I accidentally mashed way too high and it finished out at 1.022. It was not good. I added glucoamylase and it restarted, took it down to 1.000.
A little bit thin then, but overall pretty good. Very drinkable.

The BSG website says that you can add gluco at virtually any stage. Mash, pre-pitch, late fermentation, even after finished beer has settled. The disconnect in my mind is that gluco acts on the limit dextrin that were not (could not) be converted to fermentable sugars. There are already unfermented sugars in the finished beer.

My fast ferment test on this batch suggested a final gravity would be at least 5 points lower than my actual FG. For whatever reason the fermentation quit before reaching this point. Gluco would chop some 1,6 and 1,4 branches and a repitch of new yeast might ferment them, as well as some of the residual sugars. Assuming that happens it's hard to guess how low the gravity may fall or how high the ABV will rise.

Either way it should dry things out and hopefully bring the finished beer Into better balance. Hope it's worth the gamble. This DIPA turned hoppy amber ale may end up a pretty nice barleywine.
 
May be an odd suggestion
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Another suggestion: brewers crystals (link). (eta: make a slurry)

despite the Lovibond rating on the package still left the wort quite a bit darker than planned
The color summary printed on the bag is for wort at 8P. More detailed information can be found in the product information sheets (link to Amber DME PDF).

A while back, I brewed a couple of DME batches that were a blend of "Golden Light" and "Munich" DME. Color (for the blended DME wort) was easily predictable using the information in the product information sheets. Not sure if recipe software (at that time) modeled this correctly.
 
`
Another suggestion: brewers crystals (link). (eta: make a slurry)


The color summary printed on the bag is for wort at 8P. More detailed information can be found in the product information sheets (link to Amber DME PDF).

A while back, I brewed a couple of DME batches that were a blend of "Golden Light" and "Munich" DME. Color (for the blended DME wort) was easily predictable using the information in the product information sheets. Not sure if recipe software (at that time) modeled this correctly.

I had never known that such a product was out there. I'm gonna' get some of that! Thanks for the tip.
 
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