Relay Wiring Question

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ezzieyguywuf

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I purchased the linked ssr and set it up to switch my 5500W 240V heating element on/off. I've got a PWM signal going to the control pins, with a variable duty cycle adjustable via a pot. That portion of my setup seems to be working appropriately, as evidenced by the blinking light on the ssr, plus I've wired up an led parallel to my control pins. My PWM frequency is in the 1 blink per 2-3 second rage, I can't recall the exact frequency at the moment.

Where I run into problems is in using this setup to actually control the heat output of my element. Originally, I set up one leg of my element straight to -120V and the other went as follows:

+120V -> into Relay --> out of relay --> other leg of my element

My thought was that I could vary the duty cycle of the +120V to effectively vary the voltage my element sees from 120V to 240V, based on the duty cycle I've set. What I found, however, was that regardless of my duty cycle, my coil was always at full blast. Even with my PWM signal completely off, and no blinking at all on the SSR, I found that I had full blast going to my pot.

I tried removing the -120V line and replacing it with neutral (my boil was out of control) but then I didn't have enough juice to get the thing back to a boil. Even with this setup, I founfd I could not vary the voltage to the element: it was either at 117V or not. I took these reading using an el cheapo multimeter in AC mode.

I did drop the relay once, and the plastic thingy came off.

My question is: have I erred in my wiring of the SSR? I tried switching the lugs I connected my hot line to on the relay, not to the control side (that would have been silly) but essentially swapping the +120V from T1 to T2 (I think that's the terminology), but this did not change anything. I can't imagine that i'd want +120 to go to T1 and -120 to go to T2. Could my SSR be broken?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
I'm aware that it just switches things on/off, but I was of the impression that the average voltage would fluctuate with changin duty cycle, much like the brightness of an LED can be controlled using a PWM signal and adjusting its duty cycle.
 
The brightness of the LED is because of the on off pulsing of the pwm not a variable voltage level like a rheostat. The pwm just switches so fast your meter can't tell that it's ever off.
 
audger said:
if this is true:

then, yes.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-show-us-how-221301/

The seventh post in that thread has a diagram that depicts the wiring of my ssr. I do not have a dpdt switch wired in, however (I may add one down the line, but currently I'm just using my gfci to cut the power) and instead of a baktronics controler I'm using a Teensy2 which I've programmed to act essentially just like that baktronics thing. Is that still wrong? If so, how would you suggest I change my wiring

On another note, I realize what you guys are saying about my multimeter not averaging out the on/off cycles and displaying a lower voltage, so as soon as I get a chance I'll put my multimeter in check-continuity mode and see what I get.
 
just be aware that even when "off" (no trigger signal), a SSR will still read partial or full voltage across the terminals. SSR blocks current, not voltage. its a semiconductor, so the electrical path is never completely broken.

that wiring diagram is correct, but if you are getting 100% power regardless of wether or not you supply the SSr with a power signal, that means your wiring is off. hard to say over the internet whats wrong with it...

but currently I'm just using my gfci to cut the power
GFCI's arent meant do be a general switch, they are only meant to break power in the event of an emergency (once in a blue moon). you will quickly wear out an expensive GFCI doing this, and excess wear can even cause them to fail when you really need them break a circuit (ie. when you are about to get electrocuted). get an actual switch.
 
Maybe hook it up to a light bulb instead of the element and operate the low voltage side manually to ensure that the SSR is good. Could be you got a bad part.
 
Agreed, if your setup is wired like the diagram you linked, you have done it right. You could have a bad SSR. I got one, and even when the ssr light was off, the element would fire.

Note, switching the +120V leg on and off does NOT cycle your element between 120V and 240V. It cycles it between 0 and 240V, (edit, this isn't REALLY right, as I'm sure audger will point out. It really somehow cycles it it between 240V and no amps and 240V and 23 amps). The -120 leg is always "on" to your element, but there's no where for current to flow, (no neutral at your element), so when the +120V leg is "on", the element puts out full power, (240V*23 amps = 5500 watts). When the 120V leg is "off", the element puts out 0W. (It still gets volts, but only milliamps of power, due to the nature of SSRs, so maybe 0.01 watts...).

My bet is you have a bad SSR.
 
I've tested the continuity at the ssr with the pwm signal sent to the control and it displays as continuous even with a really small duty cycle. I'm still not convinced the ssr is bad: I want to hook up the actual working voltage and measure the current through the T1 T2 lugs and see if it varies any. And I appreciate the feedback on the GFCI, I'll invest in a switch. Now, my GFCI is "portable", i.e. I plug it into my dryer outlet, so should I leave it in the untripped position even when it's in storage? Is it better to plug it in/out with the lever in the on position than it is to flip it off before plugging it in/out?
 
If you think the PWM is suspect, then just unhook the PWM from the SSR. Does the element still heat up if the PWM isn't even connected to the SSR? (i.e., +120 still runs through the SSR, but no control wires going to the SSR). If the element stays cold, but then heats up if you connect the PWM, it's probably the PWM.

Edit: Thinking back, if your SSR light is blinking on and off, then the PWM is probably working...but you gotta start somewhere....
 
I have my own LED hooked up in parallel to the control lugs, and it blinks on and off respectively, so I'm rather confident that the pwm is working correctly.
 
I am under the impression that when an ssr fails, it fails "closed"
 
Sure, but the lead time on a cheap ssr from china is somewhat exorbitant (is that word even appropriate to use here? I think you get my drift though). Maybe my problem is that I used a CHEAP relay...
 
Either your ssr is bad, or you may have bought a DC ssr. You want an AC one ( with a dc control). I bought a DC one - it does not shut off an AC signal. So I bought another one $17.
 
My ssr is as listed in my original post. It lists "vac" on the T1 T2 lugs (is there a different/better way of referring to these?)
 
Well, I'm of the impression that on an ssr there is no "coil" per say. I am controlling the ssr with a dc pwm signal, and the ssr is controlling an ac signal.
 
Correct...let me rephrase...what's your "control" voltage requirement of your ssr? Ac or Dc? And does your signal voltage of your pwm match the control voltage of your ssr? And I'm entirely unfamiliar with pwm's...I use pid's. But all relays need the correct signal voltage.
 
Been reading about pwm's....you got me bud...sorry I can't help ya...
 
Have you checked for continuity between the Ac posts with no voltage to the control?
 
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