Recirc eBIAB dual 120v skematic

[srtce142]

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to do a recirculating eBIAB with dual 120v elements. Considered 240V, but I'm not particularly interested in moving the stove every time i want to brew and the dryer's on the top floor.

I based this on PJs old diagram, but made a change to the e-stop circuit so it doesn't trip the GFI by design. I'm thinking running two NC blocks and when the e-stop is hit it breaks the power to the on/off switches and therefore the contactor. The downside i see to this is it relies on the contactor to function correctly to remove the power to the elements.

Also note I'm planning to use the EZboil rather than the standard 2352 PID.

Anyways, I'd greatly appreciate some feedback if I'm going about this the wrong way.

Thanks

Edit: Fixed typo in title, sort of...

 

[doug293cz]

If you are going to drive the elements thru separate SSR's controlled by a single controller, then you don't need a contactor for each element. You don't have to switch the neutrals, so you could run the hots thru the same double pole contactor.

You did keep the neutrals for each 120V circuit separate, which is needed to prevent GFCI tripping problems (I know you realize this, but only note it for others who might be wondering why you did it.)

Edit: You might want to think about inserting some fuses on the wires for the DSPR110, the pump, and maybe the EPO/contactor coil circuits.

Brew on

 

[srtce142]

Ah yes. I thought about fuses a couple of times while working through that and seems I still forgot. Thanks for pointing that out.

That's also a good point about merging the contactors. I hadn't considered that, but I was intentionally designing around two on/off buttons so I could have the flexibility turn off one element while holding the mash temp. I was thinking it would have less risk to overshoot when applying power during mashing with half the available power.

That said, I also feel I would be less likely to scorch during the boil with neither element running at 100%, which is why I wanted the controller to manage both elements.

PS - could a moderator fix my typo in the title completely?

If you are going to drive the elements thru separate SSR's controlled by a single controller, then you don't need a contactor for each element. You don't have to switch the neutrals, so you could run the hots thru the same double pole contactor.

You did keep the neutrals for each 120V circuit separate, which is needed to prevent GFCI tripping problems (I know you realize this, but only note it for others who might be wondering why you did it.)

Edit: You might want to think about inserting some fuses on the wires for the DSPR110, the pump, and maybe the EPO/contactor coil circuits.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

...

That's also a good point about merging the contactors. I hadn't considered that, but I was intentionally designing around two on/off buttons so I could have the flexibility turn off one element while holding the mash temp. I was thinking it would have less risk to overshoot when applying power during mashing with half the available power.

...

That's a perfectly valid reason for keeping two contactors, each with their own coil switch.

Brew on